phocion Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Greetings! This is my first post and I did search and read the FAQs, but didn't find what I was looking for, so here I am I have a slight problem with the hood clearance in a 240z with a LM7 sporting the stock alternator mount, and I was curious as to whether anyone on here had the same problem? I have been looking for brackets to replace that enormous aluminum tower that the alternator sits on and lower it into a more suitable position, but so far I have only found 1 company, KWiK, that makes a relocation bracket for the LM7. They must know they are the only ones, because they want nearly $200 with shipping for this: Anyone have alternate bracket source ideas, or can you suggest a shop in the greater LA area that would be capable of fabricating this for less? I don't want to swap out the pulley and pump etc, so moving the alternator seems like the best bet currently. Hell, good fab shop recommendations are welcome as I will have to get the hood modded at some point in the near future. Here is a pic of how oddly tall the factory mount is: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Hello and welcome!! You are correct, the truck alternator will not clear the stock S30 hood. I am still running the truck alternator setup, however I am also running a cowl hood too. I too looked into the Kwik brackets and I don't think they will work either due to the alternator running into the driver side strut tower. Even if they did work, $200 is cheap for aftermarket brackets. Take a look at March or some others sometime and you'll think Kwik is dirt cheap. Also, most machine shops charge between $75-100 per hour and since they'll need to design, then fab the required pieces, you'll still be over $200 very quickly. Its not all lost though. '98-'02 F-Body accessory brackets work well to give you the required hood clearence. You'll need the following (new or used) F-Body pieces: -Front Alternator Bracket $30 GM 12563327 (Summit) -Rear Alternator Bracket $23 GM 12556915 (Summit) -Belt Tensioner $52 49296 GM 12560344 (Summit) -Idler Pulley $20 38006 (O'Reilly) -Balancer $60 RNB-594-127 (Summit) -Water Pump w/pulley $175 58563 (O'Reilly) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phocion Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 I was afraid that the most direct solution would involve replacing a bunch of the front end, but I am guessing it is better to make the swap now than constantly work around it. Thanks for all the detail, I appreciate it! I guess I'll put sourcing those parts on the to-do list... Incidentally, what cowl did you use? It looks like most of them gain clearance only in the center, where the alternator hits more to the drivers side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 I am not sure of the brand. I bought it off eBay in 2006. Its a Z28 style 4" 'glass cowl riveted and bonded to my stock steel S30 hood with the inside cutout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Here is something that might help.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95229-cheap-low-mount-alternator-setup-for-truck-accessory-drive/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phocion Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Here is something that might help.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95229-cheap-low-mount-alternator-setup-for-truck-accessory-drive/ Thanks Cable, that is an interesting and cheap method! I have to figure out if I have the room to drill/tap the engine in the bay, otherwise it is cheaper to just replace the entire front end accessories than to get a lift and go through pulling the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Thanks Cable, that is an interesting and cheap method! I have to figure out if I have the room to drill/tap the engine in the bay, otherwise it is cheaper to just replace the entire front end accessories than to get a lift and go through pulling the motor. If you have an angle drill its easy. That's how I did mine and it was easy. Remember, we have the same car(s) so if I can do it with the engine installed, you can too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dans toy Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Hi Phocion, A little something to think about that does take some fabrication skills but very little money. I had clearance issues myself and decided to make my own cowl hood using the skin of a second hood. The cost $20 for used hood/ $20.00 misc body finishing materials. Again it does take some sheatmetal skills and a mig welder but mine was a first attempt and it came out just fine. The advantage beyond cost is the cowl can be made to any size you want. If your interested I would be happy to share some information on how I did it. Good luck, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 Greetings! This is my first post and I did search and read the FAQs, but didn't find what I was looking for, so here I am I have a slight problem with the hood clearance in a 240z with a LM7 sporting the stock alternator mount, and I was curious as to whether anyone on here had the same problem? I have been looking for brackets to replace that enormous aluminum tower that the alternator sits on and lower it into a more suitable position, but so far I have only found 1 company, KWiK, that makes a relocation bracket for the LM7. They must know they are the only ones, because they want nearly $200 with shipping for this: Anyone have alternate bracket source ideas, or can you suggest a shop in the greater LA area that would be capable of fabricating this for less? I don't want to swap out the pulley and pump etc, so moving the alternator seems like the best bet currently. Hell, good fab shop recommendations are welcome as I will have to get the hood modded at some point in the near future. Here is a pic of how oddly tall the factory mount is: I have both the KWICK brackets for Lm7 a/c and mount for alternator. They do not fit the engine compartment: they both hit the strut towers. I will relocate the alternator by using an ls1 bracket and the LM7 alternator. The bracket will be spaced out .75 inch or so to match the truck crank and water pullys. Need to drill and tap the truck block. to use the ls1 alternator mount. There are several posts on Ls1tech.com regarding this small modification. g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Here is something that might help.... http://forums.hybrid...ccessory-drive/ I followed Cable's instructions, but used a piece of .75 aluminum plate. Used a press to drill three holes in the plate to match the F-body mount. Threaded the plate to accept the stock bolt under the idler (There is no boss on the truck engines to tap into for this bolt) . Used this .75 plate as a drilling guide to drill and tap the blank pad. Worked like a charm. Carved up the plate to match the F-body mount: looks like an angled "L". Locating the 140mm long allen head cap screws took more time. Fastenal had them in stock: about $5.00 each one. If you use the truck intake manifold, you can use either the 240 or 280Z oil pressure sensor mounted on a brass adaptor from JEGs. Lots of clearance. Furthermore, with the alternator mounted down low, it looks as if the JCI A/C kit is now usable (Still have to space if forward, but that d/n look to be a problem) One item, when you tap the block, don't use the small diameter tap and tap wrench available from Kragen or such. Buy a .25 inch tap and a quality wrench. Look for a wrench that uses two "v" notched blocks: avoid those that have four slotted "fingers" that are clamped by a threaded collar. G:D Thanks, Cable g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Good info in this thread. I'll be doing this if I can't secure an ls1 water pump cheaply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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