CVR starter install tips

[BLKMGK]

I think that's the brand anyway, the $150 unit Jegs sells with the 4:1 ratio.

 

Okay, this sucker is a bit bigger than the OEM starter it was replacing. It's got a big gold anodized mounting block up front and a motor on the back that can be "clocked". In my case I had to clock it one step OUT from the motor as the body of the unit hit. It now comes close to the frame but when I fired the car it didn't appear to rock that far over. Yes, open headers and my ears are rining

 

This sucker is HEAVY! It's at least as heavy as the LT1 starter it replaced in my case. The paper describing how to shim this sucker was a joke! I would've had to remove the trans AND bellhousing to do it. Yeah, my trans it oout but no way amd I goign to get the bellhousing off without big time toruble. Looks like my old flywheel bolts stay (sigh). So, I corssed my fingers and bolted it up. I quickly discovered that the "notch" it has for oil pan clearance was NOT enough on my car. With a 153tooth flywheel it had to be tucked inwards so if you've got the smaller flywheel too be prepared to cut the aluminum block too. I simply chopped the block square with th ecutout they had already created. If you use this starter you'll be able to see what I mean pretty quick. Wiring for this sucker was a PITA. Stud for the positive cable is tucked up against the block and requires a longer cable run than the LT1 unit. Thankfully I had slack. I HAD to use their bolts too - they're shorter.

 

Last but not least I cranked the car over. It turned much faster than the previous starter and I got NO grinding noises. Even when the motor fired it was fine and didn't hang or grind. It would seem that my starter woes may FINALLY be over. My fingers are crossed that it doesn't heat soak and that my exhaust still fits fine. The latter I'm not so worried abouot, the former only time will tell.

 

At last, a little bit of good news on my project. There for awhile though I was less than happy with this starter and thought it would hit the frame - I think it's going to be fine. Whew!

 

P.S. Took some time to scrape the oily goo off the bottom of my car. Ick! Undercoating tomorrow perhaps. I need a lift SO badly it's not even funny. I'm starting to look into this...

[Mike kZ]

That's the same starter I have, But I didn't have to grind anything off of it. I did use one shim when I installed it. I also clocked it one or two spots, but it dosen't come close to the frame, and turns over like a semi truck.

[Mike C]

I have two of them , one on each of my trucks. I shimmed one but not the other. It was a pain to tighten the cap screw on the little wire, but I had no interference problems but I have 168 tooth flywheels on both. I replaced because of hot start problems and have none now. Glad you got it on and hope it works well for you. It is also much lighter than the older Delco starters it replaced.

[BLKMGK]

Mike KZ - do you have a ZX or a Scarab positioned V8? Mine's not so much close to the frame as it is to the tensioning rod that comes back from the front suspension.

 

It hit the oil pan rail on my Moroso pan. The pan lip actually stuck down and wasn't flat. where thay had cut out a wedge I simply cut it straight across. The size of the flywheel makes a difference, if it hadn't been the smaller flywheel it would've been fine.

 

As for the capswcrew... I'm using a Ford solenoid and so I had to put a jumper on there. I did this before installing the starter and actually had to install he hot wire that way too as getting in there with a wrench would've been impossible! And this sucker migh tbe smaller than the really old starters but it's nowhere near as small as the LT1 unit it replaced. That sucker was thinner but longer. No matter, I'm pretty sure this won't interfere with my exhaust!

[Mike kZ]

Originally posted by BLKMGK:

[QB]Mike KZ - do you have a ZX or a Scarab positioned V8?

 

You have to ask that by now? I thought I was more well known then that

. No it's a 72 240Z, JTR positioned V8, check my site. I'm also using the 153 flywheel, but have a stock pan.Mine's not even close to the tensioning rod. But I am using the JTR crossmember spacers, maybe that's why?

[BLKMGK]

Heh, I can't keep track of everyone's projects - I have a hard enough time with mine. Besides, there's what 4 Mikes here?

 

I didn't use spacers but I didn't think they would make that much of a difference. I've got maybe a finger width of space in there, how close is yours? Perhaps your motor is further back? I'm using a small distributor and it's not quite against the firewall...? Maybe I'll try to snap a pic of it so you can all see how close it comes. I revved it a few times and it looked like it'll be okay. A good downshift is going to be the best way to tell though I think and I'm afraid that's a little ways away (sigh).

[Mike kZ]

Just busting your butt!! I'll check how much space I have when i get home.

[Mike kZ]

I have 2 finger widths between the starter and the tension rod. I'm using a small distributor cap and it's about 3/4 inch from the firewall. You should have plenty of room with one finger's width. My header on that side is about 1/4 inch from the frame and it doesn't hit.