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just a few r200 longnose questions.


R31dude

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Hi guys, I have a Jap import R31 skyline, it has a R200 longnose CLSD.

sorry if i'm re-repeating threads, i've already spent an entire saturday afternoon doin the research.

 

Q1) would i be correct in saying that all R200 longnose diff covers have the same mounting points, i'm looking at an upgrade to the finned cover or maybe the aftermarket one with extra cooling capacity. (i'll have to do some further reseach to check that the diff mount is the same as the z31 on the diif>to>mount part.)

 

Q2) does it matter about the orientation of the sprung plates? which is correct ))x(( or ((x)) x being the diffs' centre.

 

Q3) i've gone out an bought a Washer-thrust (38424 40-f60) which they use for shimming the VLSD, i seen a pic of the CLSD with the order of all the plates etc, on the end where cover plate bolts the diff centre back together they had a pic of the same shim i bought, but weird its about 2/3 the size of the rest of the plates. surely you'd be better off using one the same size as the plates to better distribute load etc, correct? or does it not matter because they aren't moving(spinning) parts.

 

Q4) these clutch plates that you guys are getting made, are the just smooth( like the outer shim but with the addition of the inner tabs?) my stock one has a spiral sort of design etched into it.

 

sorry to all if my NOOBIENESS is raising the hairs on ya back.

 

post-12175-12764735427886_thumb.jpgic of the plates out of one side of my diff, with the oddly sized shim to the right.

post-12175-12764737388273_thumb.jpgand a pic of the internal schematic

post-12175-12764741517625_thumb.jpgfollowed by a schematic of the whole Diff.

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It's easier to assemble the case with the springs like this ((x)) because the tabs don't try and poke out when you're clamping the case shut.

 

I don't know why you bought that shim that people use to shim up the VLSD. That's a bad way to shim up the VLSD (basically loading the gears on each other so that they're harder to turn, and it's probably too thick to shim the CLSD to any reasonable spec. I have a thread about shimming the LSD without the extra clutches, follow that one if you want shim yours without adding the clutches. Adding the clutches is a MUCH better way to go, as people in high torque applications have had the one clutch with inside tabs strip and then you basically have an open differential.

 

The spirals in the clutches are there to hold oil and reduce chatter. They work fine without, and all older Datsun CLSDs like the old roadsters, etc. didn't have spirals. Pics here: http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd1.asp

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