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Race camshaft for a 283 chevy?


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Hi Everyone, i have a dirt track car that i want to put a 283 SBC motor into. Its not the biggest i know but its all i got for now. Ive asked questions about how i should cut the camshaft for best racing performance, but most people simply tell me to get a bigger motor, i get an impression that they not so sure themselves. This isnt a common motor to see on any race track, its possible most people simply dont know. The motor will be a race engine only. Motor is stock at the moment, advise to harness full potential is welcome.

 

I havent really worked with this much, i believe that you can take a stock 327 or 350 cam and use that for racing? Is that the best cam to use to race with on this engine type?

 

Thanx.

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Hi Everyone, i have a dirt track car that i want to put a 283 SBC motor into. Its not the biggest i know but its all i got for now. Ive asked questions about how i should cut the camshaft for best racing performance, but most people simply tell me to get a bigger motor, i get an impression that they not so sure themselves. This isnt a common motor to see on any race track, its possible most people simply dont know. The motor will be a race engine only. Motor is stock at the moment, advise to harness full potential is welcome.

 

I havent really worked with this much, i believe that you can take a stock 327 or 350 cam and use that for racing? Is that the best cam to use to race with on this engine type?

 

Thanx.

do you have anymore specifics like compression intake exhaust

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do you have anymore specifics like compression intake exhaust

Currently the motor is completely stock, not much to say really.. Before i begin working on it, advice from guys in the

know is mainly what im after. In your opinion, what do you think of these engines? Thanx for the response.

Edited by SaGuy
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what are the racing rules? lots of rules for different classes.

 

can you use aftermarket heads?

 

can you use a 4bbl carb?

 

are you limited to the amount of valve lift and compression ratio?

 

will using a smaller engine allow you to weigh less?

 

there are plenty of "circle track" cams out there. They typically have very narrow lobe separation angles (104 to 106) and some have extra low lifts to meet the "low lift rules".

 

compcams has a few pages of circle track cams. different cams for different tracks and different size engines and different rules.

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what are the racing rules? lots of rules for different classes.

 

can you use aftermarket heads?

 

can you use a 4bbl carb?

 

are you limited to the amount of valve lift and compression ratio?

 

will using a smaller engine allow you to weigh less?

 

there are plenty of "circle track" cams out there. They typically have very narrow lobe separation angles (104 to 106) and some have extra low lifts to meet the "low lift rules".

 

compcams has a few pages of circle track cams. different cams for different tracks and different size engines and different rules.

 

I’d like to get a complete list of information so you have the complete story.

 

1.)Weight of the complete car including the driver.

2.)Total distance of the race track.

3.)Distance of the straight away.

4.)Are the corners banked, and by how much.

5.)Casting numbers for, Heads, intake manifold, Block, Crank.

6.)Type or shape of the pistons.

7.)Diff gearing.

8.)More information on the tranny.

9.)Tire size.

10.)Fuel type I intend to use.

 

Am I missing anything? I don’t have a carburetor, it didn’t come with one. Also, I know it may be painful (It normally is when teaching someone who's new), but when suggesting things, would you mind explaining what your thought pattern is so I can understand as well. I have built engines before, but never racing and the detail you guys go into is astounding.

 

Thanx guys.

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It's pretty unlikely you will be anywhere close to competitive with a smaller motor than the rules allow. Assuming you just want to take the car and run it to gain experience and have a good time, the 283 will work fine for that. The first thing to do is look at the heads and see if they have holes to mount an alternator. You'll need to run one, and some 283's don't have the holes. Mounting the alternator anywhere else is gonna get expensive. If no holes, the best route is sell the 283 and find another motor. Next is the oiling system. A circle motor needs some oil restriction. The Moroso screw in oil restrictors work pretty well. A new cam will need valve springs to match. The spring pockets on the 283 heads are small and they won't accept a lot of the aftermarket springs. Likely the best thing to do is put some new stock springs on it and run it like it is, and save money for the next motor. Check the timing chain to see if it's in good shape. A plastic gear one won't last long.

 

Sometimes the 283's bring some good money from the resto guys working on 55 chevies and the like. You might do better to clean it up, find all the date codes, sell the motor, and put the money towards a better setup.

 

jt

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It's pretty unlikely you will be anywhere close to competitive with a smaller motor than the rules allow. Assuming you just want to take the car and run it to gain experience and have a good time, the 283 will work fine for that. The first thing to do is look at the heads and see if they have holes to mount an alternator. You'll need to run one, and some 283's don't have the holes. Mounting the alternator anywhere else is gonna get expensive. If no holes, the best route is sell the 283 and find another motor. Next is the oiling system. A circle motor needs some oil restriction. The Moroso screw in oil restrictors work pretty well. A new cam will need valve springs to match. The spring pockets on the 283 heads are small and they won't accept a lot of the aftermarket springs. Likely the best thing to do is put some new stock springs on it and run it like it is, and save money for the next motor. Check the timing chain to see if it's in good shape. A plastic gear one won't last long.

 

Sometimes the 283's bring some good money from the resto guys working on 55 chevies and the like. You might do better to clean it up, find all the date codes, sell the motor, and put the money towards a better setup.

 

jt

I’ve heard the same thing more than once. At the moment its very much a case of gaining experience and having a good time. But there are the guys out there who really feel that these motors, as small as they are, are actually are very good and can be competitive. In same cases i noticed that the engine is dismissed as too small because its not common enough and they not really sure what a good setup would be.

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I didn't notice your location at first, and I guess that changes the picture somewhat, especially as far as the market for selling it. Regardless, a circle motor needs oil restriction to the top end, a left turn pan with a matching pickup, good drainback on the pass side of the engine, good breathers on the driver side, a timing chain that will be stable for the rpm you turn, and a valve train to match up with the cam.

 

Is it solid or hyd lifter now?

 

jt

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I didn't notice your location at first, and I guess that changes the picture somewhat, especially as far as the market for selling it. Regardless, a circle motor needs oil restriction to the top end, a left turn pan with a matching pickup, good drainback on the pass side of the engine, good breathers on the driver side, a timing chain that will be stable for the rpm you turn, and a valve train to match up with the cam.

 

Is it solid or hyd lifter now?

 

jt

Hydraulic, the engine is completely stock. Can you elaborate a little on the,

oil restriction to the top end

left turn pan with a matching pickup

drainback on the pass side of the engine and

good breathers on the driver side

Are there special timing chains designed to run at higher speeds?

 

Thanx for your response.

Edited by SaGuy
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You would get a better response from a circle track or dirt track forum.

 

But I'm sure there are rules you need to follow.

 

but in general, to complete with bigger engines, you will need to use more gear and more rpms.

 

lots of duration (300+ advertised), solid lift, very narrow lobe separation, as much lift as the rules allow or the heads can take, and a good valve train for high rpm.

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Id need to know the COMPRESSION RATIO, the HEADS YOUR USING, the cars WEIGHT, what your transmission is,the intake and carb used, your rear gear ratio, if your running open headers, your max valve lift before reaching coil bind on the valve train,tire diameter, track length, octane of the fuel and any other info you can pass on, about the car. youll obviously want to run a flat tappet solid lifter cam simply to both keep cost low and take advantage of the 283 engines potential to produce power in the 5500rpm-7000rpm power band with the correct components.

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http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00321&x=26&y=11

 

Im assuming your trying to keep cost low

ID suggest finding a set of vortec heads if possible as they are about ideal on a cammed 283,

if the cars fairly light weight,get the compression ratio up around 11:1 and use headers, a 4.56-4.88 rear gear ratio, a manual transmission and a decent high flow intake, and heads with springs that will accept a .550 lift on a 283 and a cam like this will wake it up

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