duragg Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 My 1973 240 is being converted to a Rat-Z Racer. Custom panel, mocked it up in Cardboard today. Suggestions always welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted August 26, 2010 Share Posted August 26, 2010 Maybe you should cut some holes to show where you will be mounting the gauges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted August 26, 2010 Author Share Posted August 26, 2010 I will probably do that tomorrow night. It will be frighteningly stock... Plus a Wideband. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xonix_digital Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 I dig the idea of a rat Z race car. That was one of my early brainstorms. cant wait to see progress pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pzary3233 Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Very interested to see the progress on this! Lets see some progress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 Ok, sorry for the delay. I had to reconfigure the tail light logic and have all the lights wired along with ignition. On a boondoggle over the weekend I mooched a ton of cool switches from an aircraft parts depot. Will get back to work on this shortly this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 Good progress today. Installed a Master Relay and Master Switch. What you see in this picture is the Master switch on top. Below that are 3 switches. Center is Running Lights On. Left is low beams, right is high beams. Bought a new batter and new headlights. Got a rough cut of the .050" Aluminum panel cut and fit. Its rough. Kills me. I want to WaterJet a panel from .125" aluminum. But its a RatZ... But its a RatZ... But its a RatZ. Tony the sheetmetal magician at Superfinishers said he'd straighten it up once I get it all hacked up good. Tired. Thirsty. Done for the night. Tomorrow is Cruise on Central in Phoenix... Got to get the Benz ready cuz the Z won't be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350zdriver Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Way to go man that looks really good. A little big and bulky for my taste. This is your car tho brother so U rock it the way you want. I also have stripped my interior and wireing harness along with AC stuff for weight but im dropping in a 350 and moving the battery to the rear for 50/50 weight. My buddy has been tryin to talk me into an aluminum dash . Again GOOD JOB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350zdriver Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 (edited) Also I could use some advise for headlights and tail lights wireing if you have the time. Edited October 10, 2010 by 350zdriver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 I agree it could be trimmed down a bit more. Actually the cell phone image doesn't show the correct proportion. Probably going to do it over again once I figure out where I want all the switches and stuff. Next one would be .090" Al cut on a Waterjet. But this will work for now as mockup. Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Figuring out the headlights and taillights was a chore. Recommend you completely abandon the stock scheme and just do your own thing. I made the turnsignals dedicated front and rear. Brake lights are the two top reds. I used a dedicated (3rd brake light) wire to run the brake lights Running lights are the smaller outboard red. Headlight circuitry using toggle switches is strange. I had to run the Hi-beam power through a low-beam switch and so on. It was just trial and error till I got everything to do what I wanted. I had to use DPDT switches in many places to get the indicator lamps working correctly and not feedback into other circuits (Hazard, High Beams, and T/S). Totally trial and error process. I like switches so it looks like a battleship in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350zdriver Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Yea I figured that it was going to be a trial and error process because I will also have switches running everything. I DO NOT want my turning signals as switches tho. I am going to get a universal turning switch for the steering column but other that that everything will be on toggle. I should go through the trouble of resizing some pics for you guys to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 I liked the idea of a "HOTAS" panel like that used in fighter aircraft. The left hand is always on the wheel and has no other jobs. The right hand manages the stick and switches since it has spare time. I'm just trying to be different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 13, 2010 Author Share Posted October 13, 2010 This panel is a "dash one" proof of concept mockup, so go easy on me.. All the electronics work, might change some switches and positions, but for now: Top guarded switch is hazards Down low from left to right 1) Master Switch 2) Instruments (and backup lights I think) 3) Fuel pump (Down Prime - Off - Up On) 4) Ignition (Up-Engine Run / Down-Engine Stop) 5) Red guard Start Below that Center - Running lights and Enable Left Low beams Right is high beams. Down by the shifter out of view is turn signals and reverse lights. Gonna make a real panel from water-jet .090" aluminum once the mockup is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagon jon Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 Looking good! Now the question is, how fast will it go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 14, 2010 Author Share Posted October 14, 2010 L24 with Triple Webers is fun to drive, but pretty slow. Maybe I will swap in an L28 for a while and keep my eyes out for an LSx motor. Got to get the car running again and back on the road. Then I need to think about real brakes and an LSD. Until I have real brakes and the LSD it doesn't seem smart to put in any big HP. Got a little work to do yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagon jon Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 L24 with Triple Webers is fun to drive, but pretty slow. Maybe I will swap in an L28 for a while and keep my eyes out for an LSx motor. Got to get the car running again and back on the road. Then I need to think about real brakes and an LSD. Until I have real brakes and the LSD it doesn't seem smart to put in any big HP. Got a little work to do yet... 280zx engine and brakes work well in a 240-280. ZX struts are the best platform because they will adapt almost any larger brake kit out there. 80 dollars from the wrecking yard, and walaahhh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 14, 2010 Author Share Posted October 14, 2010 Hey, another question. I am deleting the heater core altogether. Do I just cap off the old lines? Or do I need to run them together? Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagon jon Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 Hey, another question. I am deleting the heater core altogether. Do I just cap off the old lines? Or do I need to run them together? Tj You could do either. I have, in the past, capped off the lines at the block. It saves space and it looks better too. If you aren't using the heater, there is no need for the hoses either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 14, 2010 Author Share Posted October 14, 2010 OK, while you are here... My brother had the car last and said there was "No Spark". I have rewired everything now and still no spark. Coil is Smoking Hot after having power for a few minutes. Crane XR700 with a coil and the optical pickup in the Dizzy. I think... +12V goes from battery (panel switch) to the + side of the coil. Wire from the - side of the coil goes back to the panel for the tach. +12volts leaves the + side of the coil and powers the Crane XR700 I think. Ehh. Need to pull the Crane manual and check this all out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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