Pzary3233

Interested pm or email (pzary3233@gmail.com) me!

Email sent! Thanks!

looking for an S30 within about a 400-500 mile radius From Memphis that is stripped, or someone's project. I don't care about the motor, transmission, suspension etc. Must be a solid foundation to start with. IE sound body with some rust, but not swiss cheese. Thanks!

Car has been sold!

Long shot... But: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99025-78-280z-l28-5-speed/

Looking good! Lets see some more pictures!

You are correct, the ZF is a wonderfully shifting transmission and I particularly loved mine in the M3. The Euro gear box feels very much like an R154, more "truck like". I wish there was a way to keep it rather then going to the T56/TKO/T5 variants.

no need for them, how much would you give for one? I'm using it for a GM applcaition, and ONLY need the tailhousing and shifter parts.

Now I'm off to find a tailhousing and shifter rail/forks and top cover.

Tim, Thank you so much for your help! This makes retro fitting the gm wc t5 much easier for me! I get the shifter position back where I need it AND no funky mount! Paul

Here is a picture of a ford tailhousing: See how the mounting surface of the shifter and the trans mount are not parallel to each other? Is this the same on the Nissan tailhousing, or is it parallel? This picture looks as though the two surfaces are parallel to each other: I just don't want to go buy a good T5 for a tailhousing if I am going to be right where I am now with an Fbody canted mount. Thank you for the wealth of info so far!

Awesome! One more question... Is the transmission installed straight up in the Nissan version? Is the shifter is on the same horizontal plane as the transmission mount? Unlike the gm and ford versions. Thank You!

I know this is an older thread, BUT. I have a GM WC T5 and a Ford T5 tail shaft. Both of these transmissions were canted from the bellhousing thus giving you a 17 Degree tilt in the mount when mounted up right. There are other tailhousings out there that leave the transmission upright without a canted mount. The Nissan and S10 are the ones I know of, there should be other across the pond in Europe as a few T5s were stock in European fords. What I do know for a FACT, is that you can use the Ford tailhousing on the GM transmission and vise versa so long as you keep the shifter rods, forks, and top cover with the correct tailhousing. I am waiting on my Nissan T5 to come in so that I can take a look and see what's up with it and whether I can adapt it to the GM transmission. This would be optimum for my swap.

Looking for a busted/abused/etc T5, I really only need the tailhousing and shifting linkage and forks... Thanks!

Interesting note about the CkPS. Friend and I had a GT35R Fed Built S50 running Tec3r (From Vic Sias) that had so many issues with the crank trigger/sensor. Basically it boiled down to the Tec3 not wanting to play nicely with the BMW sensors. That sounds like a good solution to the issues. However, we went back to stock engine management with a TRM Chip for on the fly tuning.

Very cool! I must admit I'm slightly jealous even though I am snake bit on the M motors.

Yes, that actually looks like a truck oil pan... You need to look for the F body or Vette pan as was said above. The GTO pan is great for 240sx LSx swap guys.

Did anything come of this or does this idea go in to the "Good idea but never happened" catagory?

I was thinking about LSx fuel systems. 46 psi

Nah, that was an angry neighbor and the previous owner.... The car is not going to stay EFI. So I am getting a regulator for 3psi. Which is what Webers and SU carbs like Muscle cars with Holleys or Quadrajets like a bit more like 6 psi. EFI depends on the application but 45psi is a good start. I DO need an outer rocker patch panel as well as the rear passenger quarter panel area to splice in. Any one have ideas where to get those replacement parts?

Yesterday I was able to install the SU carbs! They look great and fit as they should. After I got those installed (with trips to sears for tools and O'Riley's for fasteners) I started trying to figure out the electrical issues. I pulled the EFI harness completely. It's in amazing condition! looks Brand new! As does the ECU! Once the harness was pulled I installed a new starter and got the motor turning over with a remote start switch. So I figured I'd try the key... Nada... Nothing. One click and that's it. So I'm going to head back to the electrical wiring diagrams and figure that bit out. Here is a list of what currently does not work: *Turn Signals - 4 ways DO work *Horn *Starter *Fuel Pump *Brake Lights I hate tracing electrical issues, I love rewiring but fixing someone else's crap I hate. I was out of steam on that one because I didn't have the electrical diagrams in front of me. So I went to work on the fuel system. I got the fuel tank out and will be cleaning it out today. Then I started to take the rear bumper off... which doesn't want to come off thanks to a very nasty old hitch that someone butchered to get on the car. Die Grinder to the rescue. Otherwise I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel!

Must be a SEMA picture? That's insane...

It is very popular in the Muscle car scene, Did you get that from my post a little bit ago in an LSx thread? After looking at this pump setup and then those of the OEMs. THis has more baffling in it then those. The M3 has a simple 3x3x1.5" cup sits in... Others are much better. I would say that you'd have a good chance of not having fuel starvation issues with that intank setup. It really doesn't take much to control the fuel for that split second that the pickup would otherwise go dry.

Because the ECU has other inputs that we do not use when we swap drivetrains, that all help to create a safety net in the drive by wire. I too felt that DBW was just fine. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95321-drive-by-wire-280zx/ I am now more gun shy about DBW swaps.

If you're looking into 5.3s you may want to look for the '04-'05 L33 5.3 It has 799 heads (LS6/LS2 casting without the goodies) and an aluminum block. This was an option in 4wd trucks. Mostly Z71s. This was a "Hotter" motor then the usual LM4 and other Iron 5.3 blocks. That is the motor I am using in my build. 5.3 engines are getting more expensive... the days of $500 complete 5.3s are over... we have had to mark ours up to keep the supply of good motors. We used to have 100s of them laying around and would core good motors... That has since changed... A lot. We sell long block 5.3s daily for $700. That is without accessories, harness, etc. That is now the going rate with warranty. Can you find them for less? Of course! But you get what you pay for... I would read through the Drive By Wire thread on here a bit more before you embark on a DBW build. Yes it's not hard to get it to work, but the safety and redundancy that was built into the stock system is stripped away when taking it out of the donor vehicle. AS far as the oil pan goes... Either way you are looking for a Camaro oil pan, windage tray and pickup tube. I would stay away from the carb set up, you'll have more money in it then an LS6 intake, harness (if you diy), injectors, fuel rail, and PCM. Besides EFI is great! The WC T5 would be an ok transmission for your power goals but it will break. I would suggest a TKO500 or TKO600 depending on which gearing you like more. I still don't understand why everyone is on the T56 bandwagon when these transmissions shift a lot more smoothly then the T56 and dollar for dollar are a better deal (Compared to an equally built T56 not a stock one).