weber install help me

[turbeau]

im in la mesa, which is part of san diego. i am converting from SUs to triple webers on my 71 240z. I have zero experience with this set up and am running into a few problems. What I need is an experienced Z guy to come see if I set it up okay. 619-578-8583 my name is Beau, thank you very much

[turbeau]

well i have a couple specific questions with pictures ( hopfully they work)

1. my stock 71 linkage is 2 1/2 inches too long to fit on the linkage for the webers, what do people do?

2. all of my webers are missing this plate on the back, the choke plate? can i run without it and will it affect driveability? beyond just starting it up and waiting?

3. where should i plug in the tube for the (vacuum advance?) from the bottem of the distributor?

4. what about a heat sheild, custom?

5. as it is now there is no fuel return, both sides are plugged. is this okay?

6. the SUs had a coolant line going through them, the webers dont. is this okay?

 

thanks for any and all the help

[Dtsnlvrs]

well i have a couple specific questions with pictures ( hopfully they work)

1. my stock 71 linkage is 2 1/2 inches too long to fit on the linkage for the webers, what do people do?

2. all of my webers are missing this plate on the back, the choke plate? can i run without it and will it affect driveability? beyond just starting it up and waiting?

3. where should i plug in the tube for the (vacuum advance?) from the bottem of the distributor?

4. what about a heat sheild, custom?

5. as it is now there is no fuel return, both sides are plugged. is this okay?

6. the SUs had a coolant line going through them, the webers dont. is this okay?

 

thanks for any and all the help

 

 

1. Cut and weld

2. YES...you need that, or the blockoff plate...they are out there

3. CANT...take it off the dizzy and throw it away

4. Kamineri sells the "Datsun Comp" heat shield (some mods required for use with webers but bolt on for Mikunis) or custom

5. I recommend using the factory SU fuel rail

6. no coolant line required

 

You will need to take the carbs off the manifold to install the blockoff plate. I reccomend How to Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE & DHLA Carburettors My link

 

[crazyoctopus]

well i have a couple specific questions with pictures ( hopfully they work)

1. my stock 71 linkage is 2 1/2 inches too long to fit on the linkage for the webers, what do people do?

2. all of my webers are missing this plate on the back, the choke plate? can i run without it and will it affect driveability? beyond just starting it up and waiting?

3. where should i plug in the tube for the (vacuum advance?) from the bottem of the distributor?

4. what about a heat sheild, custom?

5. as it is now there is no fuel return, both sides are plugged. is this okay?

6. the SUs had a coolant line going through them, the webers dont. is this okay?

 

thanks for any and all the help

 

1. find a different size linkage (mine worked fine and i have a 72

2. dont need it since we live in southern california, never ran with em and never had an issue

3. no vac advance, set it a bit higher than normal. i ran 15-18deg advance on a e12-80 ran like a champ

4. custom make a heat shield if you really want one, i never had one and it never was an issue.

5. i never ran a fuel return, but if you want one you can do a search there is a diagram out there that describes the best way to have it with a FPR

6. dont need a coolant line, it is worthless in southern california.

 

 

 

[turbeau]

cool thanks guys,i just got it all installed and started it up.

Zach, the return springs you used seem very strong and offer too much resistance while revving. I will probably switch to softer springs.

 

at about 4k rpm it was backfiring out the carbs

smelling very "fuely" running rich, rather rich than lean

how high can these rev, and how should i rev them safely?

 

tomorrow i will drive it around the block and see what it feels like, im so excited

[turbeau]

it ran terrible. piped in a fuel gauge and the stock mechanical pump was only at 1 psi. So now i will get an electric pump and regulator, set it at 3.5 and try again.

[Lazeum]

Low fuel pressure is most likely not what's causing your problem... That's my point of view.

 

It would be helpful to start by knowing the jets sizes (idle jet, main jet, air jet, emulsion tube & choke size) you have in your carbs, check as well the float level - make sure it is the same for all of the carbs.

 

Backfire could also be due to bad timing. I would check timing & distributor with a timing light as well.

 

 

[turbeau]

bought another mechanical fuel pump, changed the spark plugs and viola, runs like a champ,

almost. can not give it 100 percent throttle without it "falling on its face". also idle is a little

high so i might back off the timing a bit.

[Leon]

Make sure the progression ports are not open at idle. They must all be covered by the throttle valve. Check this sticky out. Make sure you read and understand it, it's got pretty much all the info you need. I also recommend this book.