HICKL Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 Okay guys, need some info. I have been around paint and body quite a bit in my life but only as a helper (grunt). I now wish I had paid more attention when I was a kid. I am panting my 76 280. I plan on using PPG base/clear for the top coat. (dodge viper Yellow) I need to paint the door jams, under hood, etc first. I was thinking of just using cheap old PPG acrylic enamel in these areas. I would also like to shoot some of this paint on a few body panels that I have done body work on to see how good or bad they will look when finished. Then, if good, bring on the base clear system for final coat. Will this give me troubles, is there a specific cure time for the enamel before I could go back to work? Would I need to prime the enamel again before top coating? Soo many questions, soo few brain cells. If it matters, I am using PPG DZ3 laquer primer. Thanks Jeff Hickl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 Acrylic enamel is old school and it takes much longer to cure. I've heard something like 3 months? As for shooting bc/cc on top of AE, I'm sure it can be done but why spend all that time and money? Spend your time on the body work and then shoot bc/cc. Paint is more expensive and so is the safety equipment but you'll find it's worth it in the long run. Ask the experts here, I'm just a do it yourselfer Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 24, 2002 Author Share Posted June 24, 2002 To me it seemed silly spraying bc/cc onder trunk lids, door jams etc. Thats my motivation. I just figured while I was spraying these areas, I could "check" a few of my body work areas. I am not good enough at bodywork to find all my flaws until I top coat. Then its too late. I sure dont want to wait months so if thats the case, no way. Any other suggestions???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 If it's bodywork you're worried about, get some spare panels and practice practice practice. That'll get you where you wanna go. Also, you should be block sanding a guide coat to see how your bodywork is coming out. AE inside and under lids could work no problem, just make sure they don't react adversely with the bc/cc, you don't want to get lifting when you're all done. And hopefully you can get a good color match for your interior and exterior. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 24, 2002 Author Share Posted June 24, 2002 Please be patient with my ignorance. Like I said before, I have only been a grunt in the body shop. Can do rough stuff, never did much finish work. Please explain the "guide coat". And about the AE reacting with the bc/cc, that was one of my concerns. I am hoping someone on this board will have some input. The guy at my local PPG store is kinda rude. Gives very short and non helpful answers. Thanks for any input. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 Don't you hate it when they're like that? I'm a novice too, I painted my car once but that's about it. Guide coat is sprayed on over primer and then sanded off with a flat board and sand paper to make sure the panel is straight. Here's mine. http://www.v8zcar.com/s30z/body6.htm As for the paint reacting, it shouldn't happen but if there's a chance it could, I myself wouldn't do it. I've never taken a body shop class or anything (and it shows), I learned from books, and videos and hanging out on BBS sites. Check these places out http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index I was here more than Hybrid when I was painting my car. Lot's of helpful people who aren't jerks. The owner, Len, sells Paint 101 which is great, tell him Owen sent you. http://www.sharpe1.com/cgi-bin/ubb/Ultimate.cgi?action=intro Mainly Sharpe related. http://www.paintucation.com/index2.html I also bought a 3 video set from Kevin here. The board isn't as high paced as Len's but there's plenty of info. Email me offline if you need to know any more of my limited knowledge Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 24, 2002 Author Share Posted June 24, 2002 Thanks for all the links, One follow up question, What do you use for the guide coat? Just a different color of Primer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 I found black is a good guide coat that you can see the flaws in and then block sand off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 24, 2002 Author Share Posted June 24, 2002 Yeah, I know black shows everything, do you use a black primer or a laquer finish paint or what? My ignorance is astounding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 either paint since it will be sanded off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 I've found non-epoxy primer doesn't gum up the paper as much when sanding it. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 First Off Dont use Laquer primer!! It tends to shrink and allow stains to come through. I suggest using 5 star 2k primer. Its a primer with an activator, and will eliminate any stains from your body work. Your paint system will tell you how long of a drying time you need. But give atleast two days before resanding and painting. My suggestion would be paint all surfaces at the same time. Its easily done if you tape off the door jams, take off all necessary rubbers, sand and prep all areas, spray color in jams and under hood first, ( take hood off) then spray color on rest of body. !!!!!!NOT!!!!! closing doors completely. Then spray clear on body open the doors and do the same. If you do decide to spray the acrylic enamel over body work first, it is not necessary to reprime. Primer is only to prep bare metal surfaces or to be put over body work. Any more questions, happy to help, feel free to email ( Is my girlfriends address.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 Carl your girlfriend's email could mean or refer to small block chevy if a BBC is Rat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 This is Vicki ( carls girlfriend) Ok uhm... whats a BBC? And I think I know what a RAT is lol! Like I said I love cars.. cuz theyre pretty to look at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 Big Block Chevrolet (BBC/rat) Small Block Chevrolet (SBC/mouse) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 25, 2002 Author Share Posted June 25, 2002 But we digress Dodge Viper Yellow is the current color of choice. Don't use laquer primer??? Ooops, its covered with it! Is it too late, should I put a match to the whole project? Just kidding. I appreciate you guys input, this is not my first paint job, just the first one I cared about! Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 I think Carl meant don't use laq. primer to primer, but I meant, use it as a guide coat. You definitely want to use a quality, maybe even high build primer for your coating. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 26, 2002 Author Share Posted June 26, 2002 Surfacer. I was told by my local PPG salesman to use the DZ3 laquer primer because epoxy primers were not "high fill". I have been spraying and block sanding with the DZ3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted June 26, 2002 Share Posted June 26, 2002 I've never used the DZ3, never even heard of it...but PPGs epoxy primer is pretty damn thick. Too hard to block sand though. If you're using this as a surfacer, and you didn't mess it up, you shouldn't have to be sanding it is my guess. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 26, 2002 Author Share Posted June 26, 2002 Thanks a bunch RacerX. One more question. Can I change primers now and put the primer you recomended on top of the stuff I was using or will it defeat the purpose. I am actually out of primer and need to buy some more so I could change now. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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