revlis240 Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 (edited) All but 1 of the bolts seem to be able to be removed. One of the bolts on the passanger side (second one from the bottom) is like 1/2" away from the firewall. So im guessing the motor either has to be loosened and moved forward or they have to come out together (motor+trans). Not cool! Did you guys hammer that part of the firewall to make it easier next time or is this just the norm for JTR mount guys? Edited October 18, 2010 by revlis240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 It depends on how much slot you have in the motor mount towers. Mine sits within 3/8" of the firewall (when it's actually in the car) but I can move it almost an inch forward in the slots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revlis240 Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 (edited) Here is the bolt: The slot you refer to...is it on the cross member, what part on the car that the bolt went thru on the mount? Now is it just me or does it look like whoever installed my kit installed the mounts on the wrong side. Look at the pics above and compare to the pics here: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT200.html#flanges What is says is meant for the pass side is on my drivers side. Right?? Edit: I think their picture is wrong because the way its installed is what the JTR manual calls for. Noone has caught this before? Edited October 18, 2010 by revlis240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 The easiest way to loosen that bolt is to loosen the motor mounts, then move the tailshaft of the trans down and to the drivers side. Watch the dist to firewall when you do this. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geking Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 That is an easier way than what I have done. I unbolted the crossmember from the car, then jacked the frame up on the passenger side. The easiest way to loosen that bolt is to loosen the motor mounts, then move the tailshaft of the trans down and to the drivers side. Watch the dist to firewall when you do this. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rytherwr Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Easiest way I found is to cut holes in the firewall/floor pan where you can reach the bolts from inside the car. when done, patch the holes with a piece of aluminum and silicone sealer. If you need to remove the trans, cut the silicone, remove the patch, remove/install the bolts. It is all covered by carpet so can't see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 Easiest way I found is to cut holes in the firewall/floor pan where you can reach the bolts from inside the car. when done, patch the holes with a piece of aluminum and silicone sealer. If you need to remove the trans, cut the silicone, remove the patch, remove/install the bolts. It is all covered by carpet so can't see it. What?!? No duct tape Uncle Wayne??? Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revlis240 Posted November 6, 2010 Author Share Posted November 6, 2010 did you have to remove the dash to cut those holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rytherwr Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Oh Davy, you wound me deeply...) I haven't used duct tape since I discovered silicon..(no wise cracks about anatomy, either) ) No, Sir, I did not have to remove the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revlis240 Posted November 7, 2010 Author Share Posted November 7, 2010 (edited) I just realized that even if I do get that bolt out (should be easy with the firewall cutting method), the firewall is so close to the back of the motor that I wonder...will i be able to get the input shaft to slide into the clutch? the bellhousing and clutch have to line up for the the input shaft to slip in. if the engine is so close to the firewall, the transmission will have to tilt to fit, thus the input shaft wont line up. I drew a pic for illustration. Its looking more like ill have to pull the engine. Dropping the auto trans wont be a problem, as there is no input shaft thats sliding into anything. but i dont have any room to slide the trans "back" or forward to get the input shaft to slide in. Make sense? Edited November 7, 2010 by revlis240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rytherwr Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Absolutely makes sense with a standard trans. However, I submit you can get enough engine tilt to install the trans if you either take the distributor cap off or remove the distributor entirely. If you need to, you may be able to slide the engine forward a touch if you have slotted the holes in the motor mount tower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geking Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 I pull my T5 trans off the bellhousing, then remove the bellhousing. That way I do not have to worry about the bellhousing causing clearance issues esp considering I still have the stock trans mounting ears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revlis240 Posted November 15, 2010 Author Share Posted November 15, 2010 (edited) I pull my T5 trans off the bellhousing, then remove the bellhousing. That way I do not have to worry about the bellhousing causing clearance issues esp considering I still have the stock trans mounting ears. If you were to do that trying to install the trans, how the heck would you get the TO bearing to latch onto the release fork? Doesnt the TO bearing fall off the release fork? Unlike other trans, the T5s release fork doesnt latch onto the to bearing, it seems to just be a loose connection onto the to bearing. Right? EDIT: Im an idiot, I wasnt pushing the fork into the bearing all the way. I see exactly what you mean and I thank you! I think you just saved me hours of work. With the Firewall hole cutting/bellhousing first mounting method, I think ive got my T5 installation half figured out!!! Thanks guys Will report back soon Edited November 15, 2010 by revlis240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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