getting started with tools

[grumpyvette]

If your starting out thinking you want to be a professional mechanic, you really need to get some schooling and certifications before anything else or your very unlikely to get hired,tool will be important but get the schooling, degrees first, if your just doing it as a hobby,thats a different ball game, in either case, a lot of guys will tell you MAC and SNAP-ON tools are the better choices but let me point out that , the whole idea behind being a mechanic is about a mix of KNOWLEDGE and SKILL used in diagnosing and knowing whats wrong from a few tests, one of the more common mistakes I see guys make is getting far in debt for an impressive tool box and some tools before they start making a reasonable profit.

my advise would be to keep a constant watch on craigs list and the local bargain trader magazines , and visit local pawn shops, for a complete tool set, or partial tool sets, from some retiring mechanic or mechanics widow that you can pick up for 40-60 cents OR LESS on the dollar

Ive seen several freinds buy complete filled snap-on or mac, tool chests at estate sales for $4000-$8000 that would very easily cost 4 times that amount if each item was purchased individually,

you can frequently pick up small handfuls of used major brand name life-time guarantee wrenches at yard sales and pawn shops for far less than list prices

kobalt,

stanley

SK

craftsman,

mac,

HUSKY

snap-on,

all make some decent tools

youll find most sets include a good deal of small tools that build up the component count making it appear that your getting a good value, but they are seldom used, youll want a good set of SAE & metric open end and box end wrenches

several 3/8" and 1/2" ans 1/4 ratchets with both deep and shallow sockets, for each size drive,(preferably in 6 point, in most cases)

an assortment of torqx bits and Allen keys and ignition wrenches and screw drivers,a decent torque wrench, and multi meter won,t hurt either, but only buy the small stuff and the larger tools as you need them

 

heres a really nice basic starter set

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00935309000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

 

but ID bet most of us started off with a less expensive set like this

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00933200000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

 

I know I did

 

RELATED THREADS

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1502

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=3283

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=834&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=tool+list

 

 

http://www.maxprocorp.com/store.asp?pid=25738&catid=19940&gclid=CO6e4ei-xKUCFZRe7AodbQzOYA

 

http://www.stockcarracing.com/howto/scrp_0803_calibrating_a_torque_wrench/index.html

 

http://www.ehow.com/how_5622566_calibrate-torque-wrench.html

 

http://www.sacskyranch.com/torquew.htm

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=342&p=418&hilit=+torque+wrench#p418

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=989&p=1744&hilit=+torque+wrench#p1744

[BLOZ UP]

I used to be a Snap-On/Blue-Point fanatic, but now I source most of my simple tools from Harbor Freight. However, buying a quality impact is a must, as well as the ratchets you can get from SO/BP/Sears/Cornwell/Mack/Whatever are much higher quality. As for the actual sockets and extensions, files, snips, and other tools: HF all the way. Even some of the air tools from HF aren't half bad.

[z2go]

Harbor Freight is a great source for a lot of tools, especially ones that don't get used very often. Some of them are actually surprisingly well made, like the angle grinder I have. I own Harbor Freight Jack stands, two floor jacks, engine hoist, wet brick/tile saw, angle grinder, solder gun, tin snips, table vise, C clamps, random orbital buffer, air ratchet, welding mask and gloves, and more. The price/value ratio is very good, and everything works great. Especially the small hand tools! Just because they are cheap doesn't mean they won't work like they should.

[blue72]

What kind of tools do you need? It all depends on what you’ll be doing the most. The tools used most often by a heavy equipment or diesel tech will invariably differ from those used by a HVAC specialist or a paint and body man.

 

Here’s a list of tools that I personally use most often as a general DIYer with a collection of classic cars. There are a few things I consider essential that the basic tool kits don't include.

 

1. The very basics:

 

3/8†Ratchets = short and long handles.

Sockets = deep and shallow, metric and standard. You want a decent range of sizes, for example from roughly 8mm up to around 21mm work pretty well in 3/8â€. Twelve point sockets are okay for general use. Six point sockets can really decrease the chance of rounding the heads off of bolts, but can sometimes be trickier to fit in tight spots or on dirty / mangled fasteners.

Wrenches = combo wrenches with both an open and closed end are great to start out. You’ll probably get along just fine with the 12 point style here too. How big or small you need these things depends on the car and type of work you’ll be doing. Luckily, the manufacturers sell them in kits with common sizes grouped together. Also, make sure to buy wrenches that are comfortable. I’ve used wrenches that had thin handles which would cut into your hand during use and it wasn’t pleasant.

Screwdrivers = spend enough time with screw heads and you know they aren’t all the same size. Especially with Phillips head fasteners, having the wrong size can mean stripping the head completely. As an added bonus, if used gingerly the better quality screwdrivers can handle limited double duty as prybars and chisels. I know that’s not what they’re designed to do, but if its all you have / can afford then you learn to make do. Also, be sure your kit comes with stubby screwdrivers because sometimes they are the only tool that will work in a given space.

Hammer: You’ll probably start out with one medium sized example. Wood handles are replaceable, but composite handles can sustain much more damage before failure. The Science Channel told me so.

 

2. Above and beyond those basics:

 

Medium – Large Crescent Wrench: If you’re just starting out, it’s better than nothing. Sure, if used improperly it’ll round off a bolt head no sweat. Can sometimes be used to loosen a large, awkward fitting or bolt in a size that you don’t yet own. If applied carefully and tightly then it might just get that bolt out or hold a large brass fitting firmly.

Extensions: Necessary. Buy a three or four pack to start out. One or two nice long ones don’t hurt sometimes too.

Swivel / U-Joint: To help reach around tight spots.

Breaker Bar: You’ll probably want a one of these to help release frozen bolts / nuts. I’ve broken a 3/8†ratchet while using it to free a really stuck head bolt. They make breaker bars for a reason.

Cheater Bars: I’ve got a length of pipe left over from doing some chain link recently. It comes in handy on the end of a breaker bar for really, really stubborn stuff like rusty lug nuts.

Pliers: A good variety doesn’t hurt here. Needle nose, standard, Vice-Grips and Channellocks. They’ve all got their uses, you will need them.

Flare Nut Wrenches: Absolutely necessary when doing any work on brake lines, cooler lines and any fitting you absolutely don’t want to mangle during removal. Metric and standard sizes.

One Quality Flat File: Can help smooth burrs, remove material and any of a number of other uses.

Razor Blades: When used carefully they can be very helpful at removing old gaskets, cutting new ones, stripping paint, cleaning glass, opening packages, trimming plastics and any of 1000 other uses.

Spark plug sockets: They manufacture these for a reason and they’ll make your life easier.

 

3. Another step above:

 

1/4†& 1/2†ratchets, sockets and extensions: Easily justified for use with big and small bolts / nuts.

Socket Adapters: ¼†up to 3/8â€, 1/2†down to 3/8â€, etc... For example, you can really put some torque on a smaller fastener without having to buy a 1/2†version of a socket you already own.

Allen Wrenches / Hex Keys: Not much of a concern on older cars, but even the beginner will find instances in which a decent set is advantageous. These come in metric and standard too, so don’t think you can just jam one inside the other, it doesn’t work that way.

Torx Bits: nonexistant on older cars, sometimes plentiful on newer ones. Especially abundant on electronics. You can probably get away with a small general set and only buy any big ones you might occasionally need. I’ve got a T-50 socket that I’ve only used once, but it was the only way to remove and replace something on my Jeep.

Pry Bars: They make some nice ones with metal caps on the end so that you can beat on them. This item is pretty self explanatory though. Just get a combo pack with a few lengths.

Telescoping Magnet: Everyone drops stuff or has come across a fastener in a tough to reach spot.

Side Cutters: Cut electrical wire, bailing wire, fencing, small fasteners, clip the ends of zip-ties, etc...

Chisels, Punches and Drifts: The size you need depends on the job at hand. Buy a decent quality variety pack. You will need these for core plugs, roll pins, chiseling away at spot welds, etc...

Torque Wrenches: Upon reassembly, many engine, transmission and differential fasteners have a torque measurement that they must be tightened to. I personally like the ‘click’ style rather than the beam style. A decent 3/8†will do for many fasteners, but larger bolts need more lb-ft of torque and that’s where the 1/2†torque wrench fits in. Even small fasteners are sometimes very specifically torqued, so you may eventually end up owning a 3/8†or 1/4†torque wrench that measures in in-lbs too.

Feeler gauges: Just skip the cheap spark plug gappers altogether. These are much more precise and you will find a need to use them from time to time.

Drill and Drill Bits: Self explanatory

 

4. Beyond those basics, there are some simple items which will make your life easier:

 

Oil Filter Wrench: A little less messy than stabbing the old filter with a screwdriver and turning.

Ratcheting Wrenches: Mostly a convenience that speeds up tightening / loosening duties.

Ratcheting Screwdriver w/ Interchangeable Bits: Same as above.

Doubler Pointed Pick / Scriber: Just plain all around handy.

Tap and Die Sets: For tapping new holes and repairing old threads.

Box End Wrenches: With long handles. For when you really need to put some leverage on a fastener and don’t want to worry about galling up the bolt head. Some have a greater angle and / or offset on the heads than other wrenches which can also prove advantageous on occasion.

Swivel Sockets: A socket with its own built in swivel / u-joint. Great aid in tight spots that might have an obstruction that no straight socket would ever fit around. These come in both deep and shallow too.

Hammers: Eventually you’ll step up to dead blow, brass and rubber mallets for special non-marring purposes.

Impact Gun(s): These will increase the speed with which you can tear down and rebuild. That becomes quite important when you’re working on a deadline or wrenching for money. Buy something good quality with adjustable torque settings. 3/8†work great for general use. 1/2†are physically bigger and torquier, great for stubborn bolts and large fasteners. They come in both air powered and electric varieties. Of course, if you get the air powered variety then you need an air compressor and that opens up a whole new money pit.

Impact Sockets: You don’t want to chew up and start splitting your chrome sockets with regular air tool use, so invest in a dedicated set of impact sockets. You’ll need them all all over again, deep, shallow and swivel sockets in 3/8†and 1/2â€.

Angle Grinder: Cut, grind, sand, bevel, chamfer, level. These things are very versatile and handy.

Bench Mounted Vice: Holding stuff steady is pretty darn important sometimes.

 

5. Other Stuff:

 

Measuring Tools:

Tape measure

Micrometer: Will be needed to verify tolerances and accurately measure all sorts of stuff. Digital readouts are convenient, the simpler ones with a dial measure just as accurately for less money.

 

Basic Diagnostic Tools:

Compression tester

Vacuum gauge

Timing light

Remote starter button

 

Electrical:

Wire Strippers: for all sizes. These are pretty cheap and do a quicker, cleaner job than a razor blade.

Test Light: simple tool to test for the presence of voltage, very handy during initial diagnostics.

Soldering gun and solder: for making nice, strong electrical connections and repairs

Multimeter: a must have for general electrical diagnosis, from continuity to resistance and beyond.

 

Equipment:

Floor Jack

Jackstands

Creeper

 

Safety:

Safety glasses: Essential and inexpensive. I have a piece of shrapnel now permanently a part of my arm because I was using a transmission input shaft as a drift and it splintered while I was hammering on it. I’d be blind in one eye if the trajectory had been 1’ higher.

Closed toe shoes

 

Much beyond that and you start getting into specialized tools. Things like snap ring pliers, seal pullers, an Oxy/Acetylene torch, tubing benders and flare sets, harmonic balancer pullers, valve spring compressors, leak down testers, pickle forks, coil spring compressors, body hammers and dollys, dial indicators, paint guns, welders and such will have to be purchased as needed.

 

With only a few tools and some ingenuity, plenty can be accomplished. When my dad started working at a dealership he left his tool box at home and threw his spare tools on a mobile cart. Most of the other technicians laughed at him on the first day, saying that he wouldn’t last. No one was laughing at the end of the week when he was faster than half of them with ¼ the tools. Using only items from groups 1 and 2 I have done some stuff that amazed other people. For instance, adding only a torque wrench, piston ring compressor, feeler gauges and a 10mm Allen socket I rebuilt the engine in my Z. Who needs a clutch alignment tool when I’ve got assorted sockets and a screwdriver? I can keep most of the tools listed above in a small, portable toolbox and go anywhere with it. I’ve also seen what Grumpy talked about, guys that are deep in debt to the tool truck and don’t remember why they ever bought half the stuff in their box.