ka24 driveshaft

[audandash]

Hey guys, i have been looking at doing a possible ka24 swap in my 240 but cant seem to find any info out about the drive shaft. Do you have to get a custom drive shaft made like the rb's? any info is appreciated.

[cbclarkkent]

I'll try to help you out. I am in the process of installing an entire rear suspension, engine, and trans from a 92 240sx into my 72z. I can tell you the slip yoke of the stock z driveshaft will slide right into the manual trans from the sx. However I can not tell you if the length will have to be modified. So I would assume worst case you would have to have your cut, lengthened or shortened, rewelded, then balanced. Any driveshaft should be able to handle that. Hope this helps a little.

[cbclarkkent]

Awesome just realized your only about three hours from me neighbor.

[mr jdm]

It needs to be shortened around 2" depending how you mount your motor. Should cost you around 80 bucks at an axle shop

[audandash]

thanks guys, i am still in the gathering info stages but could not find that info anywhere. i was really close to you today clark. we where in jackson

[cbclarkkent]

Yeah Jackson is 45 min from me. One more thing, my car was a factory auto that I'm converting to manual. The factory z auto cross-member bolted right to the sx manual. However, once I raised the trans back into the z, even though it bolted right in (the shifter even came right through the hole) it would have the engine sitting about 4 to 5 inches in front of the firewall. I'm sure it would have worked just fine but I just didn't like it so I ended up cutting the z and the sx cross-members and made one that swept rearward a good 2 inches or so. By doing that it looks like it belongs there but of course one change brings many others, now the console may not fit perfectly and the valve cover hits the hood latch. So more mods but that's what you end up with when you go custom.

[audandash]

did you make mounts or did you use mckinney?

[cbclarkkent]

Made my own. To easy to make to justify paying that kind of money.

[jenzos]

Made my own. To easy to make to justify paying that kind of money.

 

You didn't happen to take pictures of the build? I have a ka24 sitting in the backyard waiting to go in. Just want to see what I'm getting into.

[cbclarkkent]

I'm still in my build up as we speak. I don't have any pics of the mount but I can tell you I just used an S13 front cross-member as a guide. You can pick one up cheap at the junk yard. A side note though, the factory A/C compressor is right in the way of the steering linkage, so if you plan on running A/C you'll have to figure something out. No A/C for me. I can also tell you there is a ton of room in the engine bay once its in. The hood clears my engine by like 2-1/2" thanks to the factory bulge in the middle of the hood.

[audandash]

Nice Clark. I agree any pics would be great! I am still a bit away from doing a swap but have been researching the rb the ka and even an ls1. i want to do everything right so i am working on all my suspension stuff first. i have been learning to weld and have some patch panels to put in and some new zedd finding floor pans. my l24 runs decent but i want to eventually have more power. after reviewing all the engines avail the ka seems to be the most cost effective when it comes to power for the dollar. i dont have an fabricating experience so i may eventually do the mckinney mounts just to make sure its right. its a bit pricey but like i said i want to make sure its right. i also have a 68 2000 and the engines are rather pricey to rebuild. thats another reason i am looking at a ka. i want to get familiar with it so i can most likely put one in the roadster as well down the road.

[cbclarkkent]

If I had the money I'd have to do the ls1, but I've got a very small budjet. The ka is an engine that is finally gaining popularity. As far as the welding goes I will tell you welding thicker metal is much easier to weld than sheet metal. (to me anyway) If your learning (to me)then welding up a motor mount would be good practice. The reason I said use the original s13 cross-member is because the motor does not stand straight up in the engine bay. It is leaned over toward the drivers side. By have the cross-member to go by it takes the guesswork out of figuring the ammount of lean. I had the l24 as well but lets face it they are pretty expensive to work on and everyone will tell you to go l28. I just wanted cheap reliable hp so thats why I choose the ka.

[JonRHD]

I am currently in the process of a KA swap into my 73 Fairlady. It is a factory auto and I am happy to see that the stock mount will work. I was thinking I would have to fab something up. Thanks for the info!