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2 Questions


Guest Anonymous

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Sean, according to David Vizard (Vizard the Wizard) the optimum HP level is obtained as hot as you can run the engine without a fast breakdown of the engine oil. So, hotter is better, up to a point. I have a 190 degree thermostat on my engine, which fully opens at about 200 degrees I think. epending on how then engine runs, I may even put in a lower temp thermostat to let the engine live longer. Cooler does mean longer life.

 

The rollcage does stiffen the chassis quite a bit. Leonard (Fairlady 327) said it made a total difference and his chassis hardly flexes at all now that he has the 8 point cage installed. I have an 8 point cage ready to install, and I may just opt to change it to a 10 point cage! I don't know who makes MSA's cage, but mine is from SW Racecars, made especially for the Z. They run about $150 for an 8-point cage.

 

Davy

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I've read arguments that running near 210 can cause too many hot spots in the heads. Then I've read (Lingenfelter?) saying this nucleate boiling in the head water jackets is BS, that a pressure of 16 psi in the system prevents that. I think there's wisdom in both camps. Even with the system at 16 psi, the change in boiling temp of the coolant may be high enough to allow local (nucleate) boiling. Once you have that, the water jacket is insulated from the water and convective heat transfer goes away (locally). The effect on a cast iron head would seem to be different than an AL one. Interesting stuff, but I'm confused as to who to believe.

 

How about some dyno runs with different thremostats? Anybody here own a dyno icon_wink.gif?

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Here's a copy of part of an e-mail SW sent to me.

 

We appreciate your interest in S&W RaceCars. If you have additional questions or would like to place an order, please call and contact one of the salesman below.

1-800-523-3353

Chad Whitenight..................ext# 18

Mike Hall........................ext# 16

Stokes Hellerman.................ext# 15

John Konnick.....................ext# 26 (evenings)

Have you checked out our web site? http://www.swracecars.com

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Guest Anonymous

Hey everyone, Got a coupld quick and easy questions for everyone out there.

 

1) What is a good running temp for a 350 with alum heads, intake, comp. magnum series 270 cam, and headers, around 400 hp at the fly wheel? I was just wondering what is too hot, or too cold. I know it's gonna depend also on the outside air, but lets just say high way driving around 70 degrees, and another, say city driving, around 70 degrees.

 

2) Has anyone ordered the roll cage from motorsport? If so, is it worth it, and also, will a roll cage help improve fram stiffness, etc. I really don't know what the purpose of a rollcage is except to save you when you roll the car, and you can put five point harnesses in it as well.

 

Thanks for any and all info on this one.

 

Sean

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Guest Anonymous

Most street smallblock Chev. engines show good power and and durability in the 160-210 range. I prefer to run the engine cool(160-170) if possible and be agressive with you timing curve. I like the detonation prevention of cool combustion chambers and lots of low rpm advance for off idle power. I always recommend to run no more than 210 on average. Heat is power if the package is desiegned for it, but if long living horsepwer is your goal stay around 180.I like the combination you got together fot your ride, it sounds like it should take care of business for ya!!!!

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Guest Anonymous

thanks for the info. I think I'm gonna like it. I liked it with the double hump heads on till I cracked one of them. So now I'm just waiting to break in the clutch on the t56, and then I'll get to see how the alum heads handle icon_wink.gif

 

sean

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks for all the info guys. I'm calling swauto now. That's really a good deal on the roll cage. Motorsports was like 500 or so. If I can get one for under 200 and what not, I'm going to do it for safty if nothing else. Talk to you all later.

sean

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