Oddjob Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 This thread is intended to cover the dozens of minor bodywork details which might be done to restore, update or modify the Z prior to painting. The word “unusual†is meant in the sense “not usualâ€, not in the sense "bizarre". There are plenty of discussions on Hybrid Z covering spoilers, flares, scoops and air dams, but the little details that go into an exceptional project are scattered all over. This discussion is to swap ideas and “how-tos†on all of the other, small topics. Please contribute your own challenges and solutions, or just ask for some help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddjob Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 (edited) Our ’71 240Z daily driver is almost completely restored/modified mechanically. The chassis is done. The interior is half done. Now it’s time to begin the bodywork. In no particular order, here are some of the bodywork items underway: Mirrors The outside rear view mirrors have been a challenge. The stockers were long gone when we got the car. The ones on the car were aftermarket “racingâ€-style mirrors, and were so bad, they were useless. Two subsequent attempts, with MSA aftermarket mirrors, were no better. I finally concluded that a stock mirror off of a recent-model car might be the solution. I was unable to find any good internet sources of mirrors (other than the usual crap), and there really isn’t a database of mirror pictures anywhere. So, I resorted to writing down makes and models with likely-looking mirrors while driving around town. A Saturday trip to the local Pull-and-Pay yielded a pair of electric mirrors off a wrecked 1995 Honda CRX. These weren’t even on my list, but looked like they might work. Besides, for $14.99, it was worth the experiment. The existing mirrors were removed and the holes MIG welded, along with the stock holes and several sets of other holes. A bit of grinding, a touch of filler and a coat of primer finished the repair. The Honda mirrors fit perfectly, even following the contour at the top of the Z door. A small rectangular hole had to be cut in the door to clear the center of the mirror bracket, which has a raised area. A shallow U-shaped bracket for the inside of the Z door was fabricated, which bridges the raised area and produces a tight fit. The results far exceeded my hopes. You can actually see behind, and the mirrors are large enough to see well. There is no distortion due to vibration, and the mirrors actually stay adjusted. They look good, and most importantly, do not look like an afterthought. I have yet to hook up the electric, but will post a solution when I do. Edited February 10, 2011 by Oddjob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I can't say I've done it myself, but I intend to run late model BMW sidemarkers behind my ZG flares and shave the rectangular stock markers. I've only ever seen one other Z with the same thing. I think the picture was in the "White Z pictures" thread... As far as mirrors go, I'm using carbon fiber APR racing mirrors. Not too many Zs have these, but there are a few on here. Those Honda mirrors really give a much more modern look, nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddjob Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 I can't say I've done it myself, but I intend to run late model BMW sidemarkers behind my ZG flares and shave the rectangular stock markers. I've only ever seen one other Z with the same thing. I think the picture was in the "White Z pictures" thread... As far as mirrors go, I'm using carbon fiber APR racing mirrors. Not too many Zs have these, but there are a few on here. Those Honda mirrors really give a much more modern look, nice work. Thanks for the compliment. Please do post some pictures if you have them. My next post will be my sidemarker solution, which I'm really delighted with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddjob Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 (edited) Marker Lights As you probably know, cars are designed 3-5 years in advance of their first sale. When a new regulation suddenly appears, the manufacturer has to react quickly, outside their normal design cycle. That is how the S30 markers came to be. This little light, more than most other elements of the otherwise classic Z design, dates the car. Removing it is certainly a possibility, but perhaps not wise. Here is my pass at updating it. The new lights were harvested from Volkswagen, years 2000 to 2005 (approximately), multiple models. Some Audis also use them. These lights are mounted just ahead of the doors, and are used as side-facing turn signals. There are only two to a car, so you will need two wrecked cars for a set. I found a 2002 Jetta and a 2004 Passat in a local wrecking yard as donors. There are two other versions of this light I have seen, both the same size. One has a faceted lens instead of the clear lens I chose, and the other is also faceted, with 3-4 LEDs. They are on models beginning about 2006. Aside from the appearance of the clear lens, I chose them particularly because I am going to change the incandescent lamps for LEDs. More on this, and the electrical characteristics of the various choices later. The existing markers have a larger hole than the new lights (see photos), so the holes had to be patched with sheet metal, MIG welded in place. After grinding smooth and filling, new oval holes were cut. The VW lights snap into the hole, so it must be relatively accurate. A template was used. The repaired area was then primed. They have not been wired yet, although that will be very easy. Edited February 10, 2011 by Oddjob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zsteelman Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 I really like your work. I am shaving my lights as well soon and reverting to mirrors with turn signals in them instead. Did you think about locating the new lights lower in the car closer to the bumper to blend in better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Artic Cat Snowmobile mirrors look pretty good too. I will post some photos once I have them mounted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddjob Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 I really like your work. I am shaving my lights as well soon and reverting to mirrors with turn signals in them instead. Did you think about locating the new lights lower in the car closer to the bumper to blend in better? Thanks. No, I did not consider relocating them lower. My theory is that the Z is low enough already, and I'd rather that approaching SUV see them as soon as possible. A set of mirrors with the LED turn signals would be a nice touch. Have you identified a possible donor model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddjob Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 (edited) Bumpers My ’71 Z has both its bumpers, but they are in sad shape. Both are corroded and bent. The first problem I found was trying to find a bumper shop. There used to be two or three in any city in the land. Just try to find one now. Worse, once I did find the only one still open nearby, prices started at $500 to straighten and re-chrome one bumper! That ended that. As it happens, MSA has started carrying fiberglass and carbon fiber bumpers. At $175 for the fiberglass, that was a no-brainer. Aside from the fact that I like the looks, I calculate that if your Z gets rear-ended by an SUV, it isn’t going to matter what the bumper is made of. So, I’m saving money, saving the weight, and getting a good-looking new bumper besides. Here’s the web page for the rear fiberglass one: MSA Bumper The pictures below show the before, progress and after shots. The rear valance needed serious body work to straighten it out. Remember, the Z is unibody construction, so if anyone has hit your old rear bumper, it may have bent the areas where the bumper mounts. The LH mount had to be pulled out on a frame machine to get the bumper to mount correctly. The LH bumper bracket, which is re-used, also needed straightening. I already have the front bumper, but haven’t started on that yet. I’ll post it later. If you don’t recognize the aluminum gas tank peeking out from underneath, go here for more information: "Stock" Fuel Tank Vents and Badges These pictures also show a couple of other details. Notice the two hatch vents have been removed and filled. Despite my best efforts to repair them, they continued to leak exhaust fumes into the passenger compartment. Now they can’t. The two drains for the vents (under the hatch lip) were also filled. In the first picture you can make out the holes and dowel for the 240Z badge on the rear deck (enlarge the picture). None of the badges came with the car, and I like the clean look of no badges, so those holes have been filled. The procedure is as above, weld, grind, fill, prime. Edited February 13, 2011 by Oddjob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B00STDZ Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 My car has- shaved drip rails and all emblems/ chrome trim painted black/ windshield chrome trim removed/ rear glass chrome trim removed/ chrome door handles painted black/ headlight bucket seam sealed allowing it to sit flush with the fender/ All side markers shaved/ Door mirrors relocated to flush mount/ Rear bumper shaved/ front bumper replaced w/ airdam/ rear panel smoothed/ airdam grafted into wider fiberglass subtle z fenders/ rear turn signals clear/ Hatch lock shaved switching to power trunk pop/ Pretty much alot of ****. I have detailed pictures in my cardomain. www.cardomain.com/ride/3218401 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddjob Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 My car has- <snip> headlight bucket seam sealed allowing it to sit flush with the fender/ Door mirrors relocated to flush mount/ <snip> rear turn signals clear/ Hatch lock shaved switching to power trunk pop/ I have detailed pictures in my cardomain. www.cardomain.com/ride/3218401 Really nice work! A few questions: Any downside to sealing the headlight bucket seams, such as maintenance issues, access to the headlights, etc? What did you use for the door mirrors? Are the turn signal lenses the ones MSA offers? What is the source of the electric latch for the hatch? I know good ideas when I see them, and I'm going to shamelessly borrow a few of yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B00STDZ Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Mirrors are Motorsport auto flush mounts.. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/FMM No downside to sealing headlight bucket seams really unless you get in a wreck, but why plan for that? Headlight access is available through the wheel well. The turn signal lenses on the taillight's are Klearz lenses. http://www.klearz.com/products2.html#280z scroll midway down on this page. Accually one thing I did with these lenses that nobody has done is i took the little lens reflectors off of the inside of the stock lense(that are clear) and epoxyed it on these clear lenses so the light is refracted the exact same way as stock. Use goof off to get the little reflector off and use clear epoxy to put it on(dry time doesnt matter) On the front of the car the turn signal is inside the headlight and has a clear lens but flashes yellow to match the clear lens on the rear. http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/product.lasso?prodinc=headlights They are the modern styled "snake eye with clear turn signal". You will have to email them if you are interested in buying them as they are not listed on the website. Electric hatch pop was sourced from autoloc. Instructions on how to install it was sourced on hybridz.(although i still have yet to install it haha) http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/configure.lasso?prodinc=powertrunks You have to buy either the PT1000 or the PT1500 as those are the only ones that will fit INSIDE the hatch lid where it has to be mounted. It is a very tight fit but it does fit. I forgot which one I ordered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddjob Posted February 16, 2011 Author Share Posted February 16, 2011 (edited) Mirrors are Motorsport auto flush mounts.. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/FMM No downside to sealing headlight bucket seams really unless you get in a wreck, but why plan for that? Headlight access is available through the wheel well. The turn signal lenses on the taillight's are Klearz lenses. http://www.klearz.com/products2.html#280z scroll midway down on this page. Accually one thing I did with these lenses that nobody has done is i took the little lens reflectors off of the inside of the stock lense(that are clear) and epoxyed it on these clear lenses so the light is refracted the exact same way as stock. Use goof off to get the little reflector off and use clear epoxy to put it on(dry time doesnt matter) On the front of the car the turn signal is inside the headlight and has a clear lens but flashes yellow to match the clear lens on the rear. http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/product.lasso?prodinc=headlights They are the modern styled "snake eye with clear turn signal". You will have to email them if you are interested in buying them as they are not listed on the website. Electric hatch pop was sourced from autoloc. Instructions on how to install it was sourced on hybridz.(although i still have yet to install it haha) http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/configure.lasso?prodinc=powertrunks You have to buy either the PT1000 or the PT1500 as those are the only ones that will fit INSIDE the hatch lid where it has to be mounted. It is a very tight fit but it does fit. I forgot which one I ordered. Thanks for the information. My first order of business will be the hatch lock. I'm going to go with the PT1500. I'm also replacing the stock licence plate light while I'm in the neighborhood. The plastic on the stocker is failing structurally. Edited February 16, 2011 by Oddjob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.