datsky Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 (edited) hi guys. i just picked up a manual 75 2+2 . everything looks good but the fuel injector and fuel pump are not working. at least i dont hear any noise from the fuel pump when the key is at on position. however. the car will stay idle with starting fluid. the ECU is good. fuse is good. so what would be the common problem ? please help me out before i pulled all my hair out.. thanks Edited March 9, 2011 by datsky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mondello.v Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 i just ran into the same problem with my 75 280z i bought a few weeks ago. just replace the fuel pump and the fuel filter. i got both at autozone. while your at it id drop the tank and clean/pressure check it while youre already under there. might save you head aches in the long run incase there's rust/sediment in the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Did you check all the fusible links? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsky Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 oh. good news. i just got my are started. the previous owner way back in 1992 was mistaked the main power that feed the ecu and fuel pump..etc.. he hooked up the positive and negative cable all to the positive terminal. funny is: the car's last registeration was 92. for all those years. nobody had found out this problem. it have changed many owners already. anyway. now new problem. the car idles good. however. when i tried to accelerate, the rpm drop and raise between 3.5k RPM and 2K RPM rapidly, and it wont go any higher. i have no idea what cause this. maybe the ECU. the previous owner who i bought the car from have changed the ECU. the car will not start with the current ECU. so i took the ECU from my other 74 EFI 260Z and plug the ECU to the 2+2. now the car start and idle but just jumping RPM. at this point, i wonder have any of you guys tried to put a ZX ECU into 260Z or 280Z? same engine but im not sure the ECU connector lay out are the same. any input will be highly appreciated. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsky Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 make sure all your cables are hooked up to the right location. there are 2 cables that connected to the terminals. those are the only cable has male+female connector. and from the male+female connector extend about 6 inches to the terminal connectors. the white extend cable connect to positive and the black extend cable connect to negative. if those cable dont hooked up right, everythink in the car will seen to be on but the fuel pump. i disconnect the fuel pump wires and hook it up to a spare corner light. when i crank the car. the corner should be on now. if the light is on, u got power to your fuel pump, and via versa. because the fuel pump wont turn on even leave the key at the on position(it is what i just learned today. LOL). anyway good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsky Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 oh by the way. when i double the check the fuel pump. i have found there is no fuel pressure damper(im not sure if i spell it right). with out the damper, the injectors will suffer a surge of fuel, right? will it cause the abnormal RPM response? please advise. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 The ECU pinouts changed in 1978, maybe late 77. I'm pretty sure that 75-77 is the same, not sure about 74. Nothing after 77 will plug in to your 75 car and work though, and might damage the ECU so would be an expensive experiment. I've also found that 1978 uses the same part number as 75-77, A11-600-000, but Datsun took some pins out and may have modified the internals. A 78 ECU won't work in a 76 car, for example. I tried a 78 ECU on my 76 because they had the same part number but was left stranded after the engine warmed up. I then checked the wiring diagrams and found the differences. A 75 or 76 with the A11-600-000 part number would probably work, but that doesn't look like your problem. Your problem might be with the TPS contacts. I think the damper damps higher frequency pulses than the problem you are seeing indicates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsky Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) Your problem might be with the TPS contacts. I think the damper damps higher frequency pulses than the problem you are seeing indicates. it might be the TPS problem. the previous owner (PO) have changed lots of censors and stuff. but still no luck on him. and most of them are still in good working condition by eye inspection. lol and i dont want to end up like him spending tons of unnecessory dallors. anyway. i dont see any vacuum leak yet. vacuum leak would cause faulty reading from AFM (air flow meter). or it just a faulty AFM. oh wondering if you have any info on the ECU lay outs? because in my ECU harness. the number11 and 21(im not sure the number now) are not in use. what are they? tons of thanks for your help. Edited March 10, 2011 by datsky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsky Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) my 260Z is very late late production. it has N42 block with EFI... so i assume they are the same. btw. my 260Z is not running any better. it hesitated when trying to bring up RPM from idle. and leak of power. i have changed the head gasket on it. wondering if the timming is off or whatever. i followed everything from the manual. but the only thing i didnt do is using the timming degree wheel. arh. i should done it. so now the car hesitated and back fire pop from intake. any suggestion? Edited March 10, 2011 by datsky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 I checked a few things out and from what I've read, the 260Z did not come with EFI. So it's not really clear what you're working with. If you posted your ECU and AFM part numbers and production date of the car someone might be able to tell you what you have. The Engine Fuel section of the 1975 FSM has a nice small diagram showing the pinout of the ECU. You'll be able to trace out exactly where 11 and 21 come from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsky Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) I checked a few things out and from what I've read, the 260Z did not come with EFI. So it's not really clear what you're working with. If you posted your ECU and AFM part numbers and production date of the car someone might be able to tell you what you have. The Engine Fuel section of the 1975 FSM has a nice small diagram showing the pinout of the ECU. You'll be able to trace out exactly where 11 and 21 come from. the engine is not match to the body. but it has N42 block. so it shout be 75 or 76? however. the head is N47. not sure it is NM47 but it does have the P90 shape and diamond exhaust port. arh. i wish i have a FSM. Edited March 10, 2011 by datsky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Blocks and heads - http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPage.htm FSM - http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html It will probably be hard to get the whole FSM downloaded on to your cell phone. The ECU and AFM don't really "care" what 280 engine is in the car. They're what matters. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsky Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 Blocks and heads - http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPage.htm FSM - http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html It will probably be hard to get the whole FSM downloaded on to your cell phone. The ECU and AFM don't really "care" what 280 engine is in the car. They're what matters. Good luck. very help links thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsky Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 i have swap the TPS and AFM from the 260Z into the 280Z. the RPM ran up to 6k normally. but then later it stay up to 3K RPM only. and the car has lots of smoke. smell like burning oil and somewhat like unburned gas too. my guess is some of the injector is not functioning. by listen to the exhaust note. it really sounds like having a dead cylinder. am i right? thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 What are the part numbers on the ECU and the AFM? They should be on a black and green sticker on the sides. In general, they have to match the wiring harness and components of the car to work correctly. You can't just swap them around, Datsun modified them every few years. Throw a few capital letters in to your posts, at least the i's, maybe even a few after the periods, and you might get more responses. I do like the question marks though, they help a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsky Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 (edited) First of all, sorry for my capitalization. From what I heard, the ECU are the same between 75 and early 77. I just pick an ECU from a pick a part at my area. It was a 76 280Z. The ECU works fine on my 260Z and 280Z. Now my 260Z runs fine on idle and acceleration. However, I heard some kind of knocking from the head after I done a valve adjustment with feeler gauge after the engine had warm up for 15 min. I have tight all the locking nut and double checked they are tight. The reason the 260Z was running rough because of the bad connection of injectors. arh. Should found that out earlier. so the 260z runs good and pulls hard as expected. The knocking sound only happen after idle for a bit and first kick on gas pedal. Second kick on the pedal, the sound is gone. what is that?? About my 2+2, it runs very very rich. lots of black smog coming out from the tail pipe. so far, not the ECU, not the AFM, not the TPS, not the Cold Start Injector. It has spark. I have pulled the spark plugs out, and only the #4 spark plug is dry. The rest of all 5 were wet with heavy smell of fuel. What you guys think would be the problem? At this moment. I just run out of idea. thanks all Edited March 14, 2011 by datsky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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