Planning 383 240z Build

[PhaTTy]

Hey guys.. finally getting around to working on my project car (pics attached). I think I paid about $500 (or less) for the '73 240z , so I figure it was a decent deal.

 

Basically the car was going to be used for a track setup by the previous owner. I'm not sure where he was going with the convertible top, but I do like the bodywork, although it needs some repairing from fiberglass cracking, etc from being exposed to the Arizona sun for an extended period of time.

 

My overall plans: I would like the car to run a 12-13 second 1/4 mile when I do decide to drag it. I don't want anything to break or twist. I'm willing to put a few extra dollars into it to ensure that it does not have issues in the future.

 

Engine plans: ~440hp SBC 383 w/ JCI v8z kit - engine custom built by myself or my dad, or built my a competent engine builder. I'm planning on throwing a FAST EZ-EFI system (TBI) on it for fuel. I've considered a complete MPFI system, but it does complicate things and I've heard nothing but great things about the (quick) auto learning EZ-EFI setup.

 

Drivetrain plans: Built up 700R4 and a R200 Viscous LSD (Q45 3.54 ?)

 

Drivetrain / Suspension / brake plans: Option #1 - Arizona Z Car Track-Pak (Front/Rear -- 7600 $$ wow) , Option #2 - Modern Motorsports Rear Adj Control Arms, Modern Motorsports R200 Mounting Package , Modern Motorsports Front/Rear 13" Brake Package , Option #3 - Techo Toy Tuning R200 Rear End Conversion Kit (http://www.technotoy...0-rear-end.html)

 

I would like your opinions on the above choices.. what would be best and easiest to implement. I would like to do much of the work myself, so the simpler for me, the better. I really like the Arizona Z Car Track-Pak, but it's friggin expensive.

 

So.. after that is all out of the way.. I need to know how to proceed with this car. My first though was to take it down somewhere and have it soda blasted (so it doesn't harm any existing fiberglass). I'd like to know what I am working with before I begin my first attempt at fiberglass repair and fabrication. Is this what you would do first?

 

I was planning on the following "order" for completing the car:

1. Remove dash and have someone soda blast everything we can

2. Repair any fiberglass that has cracks, needs filling in, fabrication for tail light installation

3. Primer it before anything starts rusting

4. Replace frame rails and floor boards

5. Primer floor boards -- Spray or Brush truck bedliner in engine bay and cabin floor of vehicle

[edit] 5a. - Reinforce chassis to prevent flexing or have someone else with 240z experience do it (Phoenix area has someone good).

6. Remove old rearend and install new rearend, suspension, and brake components

7. Replace front control arms, suspension, and brake components

8. Install transmission, driveline, and mounting components

9. Ensure steering components are bolted up and functional

10. Install engine and mounting components

11. Install headers and have an exhaust shop install the exhaust

12. Hook up heater components

13. Install new fiberglass + coated dash + gauges

 

Let me know how that looks, and if I am missing anything important. I want this done right the first time

 

Sorry for the lengthy post and might be over-thinking it, but I like being prepared and know what I am in for.

 

Thanks guys!

Edited March 20, 2011 by PhaTTy

[grumpyvette]

you may have a good deal if the cars nor had extensive rust issues ,Ive always preferred track cars because, the interior and much of the wiring is much simpler, and factors like maintaining the air conditioning, radio, power seats,etc. function, are not a big concern.

that roll cage appears to be mostly designed for "LOOKS" I doubt its going to pass any track inspection from what I can see,in the pictures, Id think it will require removal and replacement after reading thru the track requirements (no gussets, floor plates or correct rear frame brace tubes, etc)

I don,t know what your budgeting for an engine,and drive train, but if youve got a realistic budget I may be able to give you some tips, just be aware that anything worth building in a SBC engine,thats expected to make 450hp is not going to be mostly based on cheap rebuilt OEM parts off a 305 SBC

Edited March 21, 2011 by grumpyvette

[rsicard]

Hey guys.. finally getting around to working on my project car (pics attached). I think I paid about $500 (or less) for the '73 240z , so I figure it was a decent deal.

 

Basically the car was going to be used for a track setup by the previous owner. I'm not sure where he was going with the convertible top, but I do like the bodywork, although it needs some repairing from fiberglass cracking, etc from being exposed to the Arizona sun for an extended period of time.

 

My overall plans: I would like the car to run a 12-13 second 1/4 mile when I do decide to drag it. I don't want anything to break or twist. I'm willing to put a few extra dollars into it to ensure that it does not have issues in the future.

 

Engine plans: ~440hp SBC 383 w/ JCI v8z kit - engine custom built by myself or my dad, or built my a competent engine builder. I'm planning on throwing a FAST EZ-EFI system (TBI) on it for fuel. I've considered a complete MPFI system, but it does complicate things and I've heard nothing but great things about the (quick) auto learning EZ-EFI setup.

 

Drivetrain plans: Built up 700R4 and a R200 Viscous LSD (Q45 3.54 ?)

 

Drivetrain / Suspension / brake plans: Option #1 - Arizona Z Car Track-Pak (Front/Rear -- 7600 $ wow) , Option #2 - Modern Motorsports Rear Adj Control Arms, Modern Motorsports R200 Mounting Package , Modern Motorsports Front/Rear 13" Brake Package , Option #3 - Techo Toy Tuning R200 Rear End Conversion Kit (http://www.technotoy...0-rear-end.html)

 

 

 

I would like your opinions on the above choices.. what would be best and easiest to implement. I would like to do much of the work myself, so the simpler for me, the better. I really like the Arizona Z Car Track-Pak, but it's friggin expensive.

 

So.. after that is all out of the way.. I need to know how to proceed with this car. My first though was to take it down somewhere and have it soda blasted (so it doesn't harm any existing fiberglass). I'd like to know what I am working with before I begin my first attempt at fiberglass repair and fabrication. Is this what you would do first?

 

I was planning on the following "order" for completing the car:

1. Remove dash and have someone soda blast everything we can

2. Repair any fiberglass that has cracks, needs filling in, fabrication for tail light installation

3. Primer it before anything starts rusting

4. Replace frame rails and floor boards

5. Primer floor boards -- Spray or Brush truck bedliner in engine bay and cabin floor of vehicle

[edit] 5a. - Reinforce chassis to prevent flexing or have someone else with 240z experience do it (Phoenix area has someone good).

6. Remove old rearend and install new rearend, suspension, and brake components

7. Replace front control arms, suspension, and brake components

8. Install transmission, driveline, and mounting components

9. Ensure steering components are bolted up and functional

10. Install engine and mounting components

11. Install headers and have an exhaust shop install the exhaust

12. Hook up heater components

13. Install new fiberglass + coated dash + gauges

 

Let me know how that looks, and if I am missing anything important. I want this done right the first time

 

Sorry for the lengthy post and might be over-thinking it, but I like being prepared and know what I am in for.

 

Thanks guys!

 

PhaTTY:

 

STOP!!! Slow down. I am going down this path and something can be learned by others experiences. You have only spent $500.00 which is a drop in the bucket compared with what you will spend on restoring/modifying a 240Z. Find a nearly rust free early 240Z that needs restoring and pay a fair (NOT EXCESSIVE) price for it. The purpose being that the roof and attendant structure provide a significant amount of STIFFNESS to the whole body. Then strip it and weld any questionable seams on the UniBody. Then reinforce the sub-frame with Bad Dog reinforcement sub-frame beef up kit. Then integrate a locally fabbed roll cage with adequate cross bracing to add further chassis stiffness.

 

Obtain David Vizard's latest book and go with a 350 cu in Generation 1 or 2 Small Block Chevrolet. The Gen 1 is cheaper for performance parts. The Gen 1 350 block is cheap and can be made into a 383 fairly cheap. Suggest using Scat Stroke Cast Crank, Rods and SRP Professional Pistons. These pistons are LIGHTWEIGHT and get the assembly INTERNALLY balanced. First find a decent block and get it cleaned and magnafluxed before using same. Then get the block machined near Zero Deck or .005" in the hold and line honed. Order Scat Rods with ARP-2000 rod bolts and then no worries.

 

DON'T cheap out on the cylinder heads. Go with AFR cylinder heads and if possible the competition model. They flow the best of all on the market. Forget Hydraulic Roller Lifters go to SOLID roller lifters and an aggressive Comp Cams solid roller camshaft. Hydraulic lifters give up lift for noise reduction. Use 1.6 or better ratio rocker arms. Try to get .600" or better HONEST lift at the valves to get it to BREATH properly.

 

Any questions so far???

[kamikaZeS30]

PhaTTy, do you plan to drive this car mostly on the street or on the drag-strip?

 

Grumpy knows his GM, I read a ton of his posts before settling on my 383 swap. I'm not experienced with the GM v8s (well, not as experienced as some on this board), but the 383 from what I understand is good for building a low-to-midrange torque monster, if you want the high-strung performance motor I'd look at staying with the 350 or look at a 327 (bjhines has built a really sweet 327 track Z).

 

I'm still not done with it to the point where it is driveable, but I tried to stay somewhat conservative on my build, because it will be my regular street car. I, personally, would not want solid roller lifters with a ridiculous cam and huge lift, unless you want to keep your foot on the gas at stop-lights and choke-out/piss-off the people behind you, not to mention attract the attention of the local constabulary. If it's your track car, then go balls to the wall.

 

As far as chassis reinforcements, look at posts by johnc in the brakes/suspension/chassis/wheels subforum. He has a 13-point checklist for stiffening a street/track Z, and there are a ton of pictures in that forum regarding the processes involved in each of those points. You're kind of starting out with a handicap, because you have no roof, but a crafty mind I'm sure could overcome that. My first instinct, as grumpy and rsicard have already stated, would be to start seam welding and look at fabbing a better cage. Hell, I would build it into/through the doors, weld the doors to the body (since it's a chop top) then continue that bracing through the firewall and to the front frame rails, and tie the back of it into the tops of the shock towers and the rear-subframe-- pair that with some bad dog frame rails and you'll be off to a really good start.

[PhaTTy]

you may have a good deal if the cars nor had extensive rust issues ,Ive always preferred track cars because, the interior and much of the wiring is much simpler, and factors like maintaining the air conditioning, radio, power seats,etc. function, are not a big concern.

that roll cage appears to be mostly designed for "LOOKS" I doubt its going to pass any track inspection from what I can see,in the pictures, Id think it will require removal and replacement after reading thru the track requirements (no gussets, floor plates or correct rear frame brace tubes, etc)

I don,t know what your budgeting for an engine,and drive train, but if youve got a realistic budget I may be able to give you some tips, just be aware that anything worth building in a SBC engine,thats expected to make 450hp is not going to be mostly based on cheap rebuilt OEM parts off a 305 SBC

 

 

I'm not planning on using it on a track. Maybe the drag strip, but definitely not the track. I was just saying the person I bought it from had planned to use it on his local track.

 

Engine, Differential, and Transmission I figured would cost between $5k and $8k depending on if I built it or had someone else do the work.. and all those small things in between I'm not going to use cheap parts.. want it to last a while

[PhaTTy]

PhaTTY:

 

STOP!!! Slow down. I am going down this path and something can be learned by others experiences. You have only spent $500.00 which is a drop in the bucket compared with what you will spend on restoring/modifying a 240Z. Find a nearly rust free early 240Z that needs restoring and pay a fair (NOT EXCESSIVE) price for it. The purpose being that the roof and attendant structure provide a significant amount of STIFFNESS to the whole body. Then strip it and weld any questionable seams on the UniBody. Then reinforce the sub-frame with Bad Dog reinforcement sub-frame beef up kit. Then integrate a locally fabbed roll cage with adequate cross bracing to add further chassis stiffness.

 

Obtain David Vizard's latest book and go with a 350 cu in Generation 1 or 2 Small Block Chevrolet. The Gen 1 is cheaper for performance parts. The Gen 1 350 block is cheap and can be made into a 383 fairly cheap. Suggest using Scat Stroke Cast Crank, Rods and SRP Professional Pistons. These pistons are LIGHTWEIGHT and get the assembly INTERNALLY balanced. First find a decent block and get it cleaned and magnafluxed before using same. Then get the block machined near Zero Deck or .005" in the hold and line honed. Order Scat Rods with ARP-2000 rod bolts and then no worries.

 

DON'T cheap out on the cylinder heads. Go with AFR cylinder heads and if possible the competition model. They flow the best of all on the market. Forget Hydraulic Roller Lifters go to SOLID roller lifters and an aggressive Comp Cams solid roller camshaft. Hydraulic lifters give up lift for noise reduction. Use 1.6 or better ratio rocker arms. Try to get .600" or better HONEST lift at the valves to get it to BREATH properly.

 

Any questions so far???

 

This Z is very rust free... minus some on the floor plans. I bought it because I actually wanted a convertible eventually -- so I think it fits my plans well. I can add stiffness to the body (or have somebody that has experience do it). My #1 priority on this build is to make sure the unibody is reinforced as much as possible and that bracing is installed wherever we can. Your engine recommendations are actually very close to what I had planned:

 

GM 4 bolt 350 block machined to 383 (possibly splayed.. is it necessary for this HP level?)

AFR 180 or 195 street eliminator heads

Victor Reinz head gaskets

Lunati Voodoo 60103 Cams

Lunati Voodoo Aluminum Roller Rockers

SCAT Pro Comp I-Beam Rods

ARP Wave-Loc Rod Bolt Kit

SCAT 9000 Pro Comp Stoker Crank

Hypereutectic Pistons (Speed Pro or Keith Black?)

Melling High Volume Oil Pump

Cloyes true roller timing kit

Clevite H-series Main and Rod Bearings

Comp Cams Magnum Push Rods

Thanks for the suggestions and your input. It's very helpful!

[PhaTTy]

PhaTTy, do you plan to drive this car mostly on the street or on the drag-strip?

 

Grumpy knows his GM, I read a ton of his posts before settling on my 383 swap. I'm not experienced with the GM v8s (well, not as experienced as some on this board), but the 383 from what I understand is good for building a low-to-midrange torque monster, if you want the high-strung performance motor I'd look at staying with the 350 or look at a 327 (bjhines has built a really sweet 327 track Z).

 

I'm still not done with it to the point where it is driveable, but I tried to stay somewhat conservative on my build, because it will be my regular street car. I, personally, would not want solid roller lifters with a ridiculous cam and huge lift, unless you want to keep your foot on the gas at stop-lights and choke-out/piss-off the people behind you, not to mention attract the attention of the local constabulary. If it's your track car, then go balls to the wall.

 

As far as chassis reinforcements, look at posts by johnc in the brakes/suspension/chassis/wheels subforum. He has a 13-point checklist for stiffening a street/track Z, and there are a ton of pictures in that forum regarding the processes involved in each of those points. You're kind of starting out with a handicap, because you have no roof, but a crafty mind I'm sure could overcome that. My first instinct, as grumpy and rsicard have already stated, would be to start seam welding and look at fabbing a better cage. Hell, I would build it into/through the doors, weld the doors to the body (since it's a chop top) then continue that bracing through the firewall and to the front frame rails, and tie the back of it into the tops of the shock towers and the rear-subframe-- pair that with some bad dog frame rails and you'll be off to a really good start.

 

It will be mostly street. I plan on driving it most days. Welding the cage in/through the doors would be interesting. I may have to remove these hollow fiberglass (yeah.. about 5 - 9 lbs each) doors and find some stock doors to place on them. Not sure if the stock ones will even bolt up any longer, but I'll have to check sometime. The idea of welding the stock doors is interesting also, but then I'd have to have a ladder for my wife to be able to get in.. probably not going to happen. Bracing through firewall and front frame rails I am all for. The cage is already welded to the rear shock towers, but I plan on adding a strut bar in the front / back both to further increase the rigidity. I am planning on replacing the floorboards and frame rails.

 

I didn't want to make it look like I was jumping head first into this, but I did want to write it all out and plan it all out so I knew for myself what I was going to do, when I was going to do it, etc.. and to get your very valuable advice about it all.

 

Thanks a ton! Keep it coming.

[rsicard]

This Z is very rust free... minus some on the floor plans. I bought it because I actually wanted a convertible eventually -- so I think it fits my plans well. I can add stiffness to the body (or have somebody that has experience do it). My #1 priority on this build is to make sure the unibody is reinforced as much as possible and that bracing is installed wherever we can. Your engine recommendations are actually very close to what I had planned:

 

GM 4 bolt 350 block machined to 383 (possibly splayed.. is it necessary for this HP level?)

AFR 180 or 195 street eliminator heads

Victor Reinz head gaskets

Lunati Voodoo 60103 Cams

Lunati Voodoo Aluminum Roller Rockers

SCAT Pro Comp I-Beam Rods

ARP Wave-Loc Rod Bolt Kit

SCAT 9000 Pro Comp Stoker Crank

Hypereutectic Pistons (Speed Pro or Keith Black?)

Melling High Volume Oil Pump

Cloyes true roller timing kit

Clevite H-series Main and Rod Bearings

Comp Cams Magnum Push Rods

Thanks for the suggestions and your input. It's very helpful!

 

PhaTTy:

 

There was a considerable thought and experience put into the previous response. Hypereutectic Pistons are BRITTLE and HEAVY. Spend the extra money for the SRP Professional for 6 inch rods and get FORGED (Strong) LIGHTWEIGHT pistons. The Scat 6 inch rods will come with the appropriate ARP bolts. The cast Scat crank is good for 5000 RPM. Above that go with the Scat forged 3.75 stroker crank. Comp Cams has .105 inch wall (Thick Wall) push rods i.e. much less FLEX for more precise valve action. Forget the Cloyes true roller chain, go to Pete Jackson GEAR drive, i.e. less spark scatter translated to distributor. Use Big Block Oil Pump (more pump teeth, less induced spark scatter), attendant pickup and oil pan. Much consideration put into these aspects.

 

It is IMPOSSIBLE to regain the torsional stiffness and light weight of the original roof, A and C pillars. Get another good early 240Z!!! They come in at 2400 Lbs significantly lighter than others. Then properly cross-brace with roll-cage. Cannot emphasize this ENOUGH. Take it from one who is experienced in these matters.

 

Take these responses SERIOUSLY and the end product will be much BETTER.

[PhaTTy]

PhaTTy:

 

There was a considerable thought and experience put into the previous response. Hypereutectic Pistons are BRITTLE and HEAVY. Spend the extra money for the SRP Professional for 6 inch rods and get FORGED (Strong) LIGHTWEIGHT pistons. The Scat 6 inch rods will come with the appropriate ARP bolts. The cast Scat crank is good for 5000 RPM. Above that go with the Scat forged 3.75 stroker crank. Comp Cams has .105 inch wall (Thick Wall) push rods i.e. much less FLEX for more precise valve action. Forget the Cloyes true roller chain, go to Pete Jackson GEAR drive, i.e. less spark scatter translated to distributor. Use Big Block Oil Pump (more pump teeth, less induced spark scatter), attendant pickup and oil pan. Much consideration put into these aspects.

 

It is IMPOSSIBLE to regain the torsional stiffness and light weight of the original roof, A and C pillars. Get another good early 240Z!!! They come in at 2400 Lbs significantly lighter than others. Then properly cross-brace with roll-cage. Cannot emphasize this ENOUGH. Take it from one who is experienced in these matters.

 

Take these responses SERIOUSLY and the end product will be much BETTER.

 

 

Got it on the pistons.. I'm not opposed to change.. Thanks for the rest of the info also.. I'm saving this all elsewhere for some day when I actually do build the engine. I am attached to this Z.. I definitely want a roadster.. topless Z.. so I'll beef up the stiffness as much as I can. I've seen a couple of other convertible and roadster Z's out there that handle more horsepower than I will be putting out. If a vette, viper, cobra, etc can run the drag topless (and they do.. I see it almost every week) , then I think it is safe to say that you can put enough structural integrity into the rest of the body to be able to handle it. If I do end up twisting the body or doing some major damage, then I figure I can always go grab another 240z -- they are fairly easy to find rust-free and in decent condition here in Arizona... apart from the body work, paint, and reinforcements.. the rest of the parts bolt on.. I've seen somebody swap the engine, drivetrain, rearend from one 240z to another very quickly before

 

I'm confident that I can reinforce the chassis decently. The roll cage that is already in the car is near identical to many of the cars that run the drag strip here locally. Most of those cars push upwards of 500hp and a good amount of them are unibody's .. Wish me luck and I'll do my best. Who knows.. maybe a 2nd 240z is in my future as well to compare it to

 

I REALLY APPRECIATE the comments and suggestions.. This is what I am looking for, and what makes this forum great.

 

 

[kamikaZeS30]

It's not impossible to make enough reinforcements to combat the missing roof, it will just take some extra work and probably add some extra weight. But, if you have to add 50lbs, no big deal, you're still looking at something with less than 2800 lbs (assume engine swap weight, driver and tank of gas), pushing over 400 ft. lbs. of torque.

 

Aside from your choice of rotating assembly, your build sounds very similar to mine. I agree with rsicard on going with low-expansion forged pistons, they can be had relatively inexpensively and are totally the way to go in a high compression motor.

[rsicard]

Got it on the pistons.. I'm not opposed to change.. Thanks for the rest of the info also.. I'm saving this all elsewhere for some day when I actually do build the engine. I am attached to this Z.. I definitely want a roadster.. topless Z.. so I'll beef up the stiffness as much as I can. I've seen a couple of other convertible and roadster Z's out there that handle more horsepower than I will be putting out. If a vette, viper, cobra, etc can run the drag topless (and they do.. I see it almost every week) , then I think it is safe to say that you can put enough structural integrity into the rest of the body to be able to handle it. If I do end up twisting the body or doing some major damage, then I figure I can always go grab another 240z -- they are fairly easy to find rust-free and in decent condition here in Arizona... apart from the body work, paint, and reinforcements.. the rest of the parts bolt on.. I've seen somebody swap the engine, drivetrain, rearend from one 240z to another very quickly before

 

I'm confident that I can reinforce the chassis decently. The roll cage that is already in the car is near identical to many of the cars that run the drag strip here locally. Most of those cars push upwards of 500hp and a good amount of them are unibody's .. Wish me luck and I'll do my best. Who knows.. maybe a 2nd 240z is in my future as well to compare it to

 

I REALLY APPRECIATE the comments and suggestions.. This is what I am looking for, and what makes this forum great.

 

 

 

PhaTTy:

 

Thanks for being OPEN minded to changes from others. For this project the surface has been scratched. Keep posting progress and asking questions. I have a 1971 240Z which weighed in at 2460 lbs with the original 6 cylinder engine and trans all in running condition. Want to keep the weight down. Suspension at all 4 corners have adj coil overs with Koni adj racing shocks. R180 differential replaced by R200 Clutch Limited Slip Diff (CLSD), half shafts replaced with CV types and Modern Motorsports BEEFY stub axles installed all to withstand 500+ ft lbs of torque.

 

SRP professional (light weight and STRONG) pistons used in 383 to achieve maximum squish and quench with .030" cometic head gasket. Forget Scat crank and Scat Forged I-beam rods used so the bottom end is all forged assembly all internally balanced. Neutral balance damper and flywheel used. T56 trans to go behind the 383. This 383 baselined after Dyno tested engines seen on AFR cyl head Web site. Exceeded all specs of the baseline configuration. T56 trans to get special treatment for weak spots. Working on EFI system at present time.

 

With 500+ HP and TQ, the horsepower to weight ratio is better than a new Corvette and maybe a Viper.

[dsommer]

You can check out my build in the members section. I went a similar route with a "rust free car" although mine has a roof.

 

If you're planning on farming out the work get ready to pay $$$. Floors and frame rails and some "other" additional work wound up costing me $3K. (not including parts, zeddfindings floorpans, bad dog frame rails + subframe connectors)

 

Good luck with the build and keep us posted though!!!!

[PhaTTy]

So.. I am thinking of downgrading the engine aspect of the build to a used stock LS1 w/ megasquirt 3 .. and go from there if I want more power, it's easy enough to add... Should make it easier on me, and provide a cheaper engine build. If my aim is 12-13 1/4 miles, I have a feeling the stock LS1 can get pretty close, or be nudged there with a little help.

 

What do y'all think?

[kamikaZeS30]

Unless you have a magic supplier, I was able to gather the parts for a somewhat built up 383 for cheaper than I could source an LS1 swap (Was looking at a minimum of $3000 for a running LS1, suitable trans and factory ECU). Not to mention the extra work and money involved with converting the Z to handle EFI (baffled tank, pumps, etc).

 

I don't see how it gets much easier (or cheaper) than a gen1/2 small block swap. Basically you can order all the "custom" parts you will need pre-made (motor/trans mounts, driveshaft, throttle cable/bracket, hood latch bracket, npt fittings for sending units, etc.) and it's a carbureted engine so all of your stock fuel delivery can pretty much remain the same, 'cept you might want a larger volume Holley fuel pump.

 

I went with the small block because I spent awhile pricing everything out. An LS1 would be sweet, but I, personally, feel that you would end up spending a lot more money, especially if you're talking new custom standalone engine management like Megasquirt or something.

[PhaTTy]

Unless you have a magic supplier, I was able to gather the parts for a somewhat built up 383 for cheaper than I could source an LS1 swap (Was looking at a minimum of $3000 for a running LS1, suitable trans and factory ECU). Not to mention the extra work and money involved with converting the Z to handle EFI (baffled tank, pumps, etc).

 

I don't see how it gets much easier (or cheaper) than a gen1/2 small block swap. Basically you can order all the "custom" parts you will need pre-made (motor/trans mounts, driveshaft, throttle cable/bracket, hood latch bracket, npt fittings for sending units, etc.) and it's a carbureted engine so all of your stock fuel delivery can pretty much remain the same, 'cept you might want a larger volume Holley fuel pump.

 

I went with the small block because I spent awhile pricing everything out. An LS1 would be sweet, but I, personally, feel that you would end up spending a lot more money, especially if you're talking new custom standalone engine management like Megasquirt or something.

 

Thanks! All good points but this car has no fuel lines, no gas tank, nothing except the stock cracked dash and the suspension and rearend.. Everything is completely gutted already, and I don't have it.. so I was planning on using a fuel cell and redoing it all anyway. I really like the idea of the EZ-EFI (TBI) system, but just noticed the Megasquirt 3 sequential injection stuff, and how easy it is to setup with the LS1. I initially leaned away from the LS1 because I didn't want to deal with $ injectors and all of the sensors needed. It's still a toss-up at this point, but the engine is a far way off anyway.. Have plenty of body work and enforcement to do before I should even be thinking about it. Just letting my thoughts run into the forum

 

 

 

[John Scott]

Just to add. I'm on my 9th year with only one $2.00 waterpump gasket failure, 383. Otherwise the most reliable rock solid engine I have built. I used the 9000 series cast crank, and yes many turn these 7500, 500+ hp with no issues, the 5000 limit is a bunch of bull. Forged SRPs Zero gaps, forged Scat rods, professionally balanced, afr 195s, Vic Jr, HolleyHP 750, Isky solid roller 244@ .050, 613/582 108, CC Pro mag RRs. I used a double roller timing set, Melling pump (SBC) with Chro-Mo oil pump shaft, 6 qt Kevco baffled pan. -8 aluminum lines with Mallory 140 pump with return style regulator. Trouble free Mallory unilite with MSD 6AL, chipped to 7200. 6-speed Tremec and Dual friction Gold, also never failed.

 

Pure stock underside, no rail reinforcement. MSA sway bars and strut bars front and rear, AZ-car springs. OBX R200 rear. I've never twisted up the body or any other parts. Road racing is way harder on cars than my style of spirited but hard driving and numerous drag strip visits. I don't baby this engine and it has never failed.

 

Just .02 from someone who has one with an extended history. Your results may vary. Have some fun!!

[PhaTTy]

Just to add. I'm on my 9th year with only one $2.00 waterpump gasket failure, 383. Otherwise the most reliable rock solid engine I have built. I used the 9000 series cast crank, and yes many turn these 7500, 500+ hp with no issues, the 5000 limit is a bunch of bull. Forged SRPs Zero gaps, forged Scat rods, professionally balanced, afr 195s, Vic Jr, HolleyHP 750, Isky solid roller 244@ .050, 613/582 108, CC Pro mag RRs. I used a double roller timing set, Melling pump (SBC) with Chro-Mo oil pump shaft, 6 qt Kevco baffled pan. -8 aluminum lines with Mallory 140 pump with return style regulator. Trouble free Mallory unilite with MSD 6AL, chipped to 7200. 6-speed Tremec and Dual friction Gold, also never failed.

 

Pure stock underside, no rail reinforcement. MSA sway bars and strut bars front and rear, AZ-car springs. OBX R200 rear. I've never twisted up the body or any other parts. Road racing is way harder on cars than my style of spirited but hard driving and numerous drag strip visits. I don't baby this engine and it has never failed.

 

Just .02 from someone who has one with an extended history. Your results may vary. Have some fun!!

 

 

Thanks John... Sounds good.. Your build sounds similar to my original plan, which I intended to be fairly rock solid. I'd be more interested in the full detailed listing of what went into the engine. I do plan on doing some reinforcement since it already has the roll cage in it, and is gutted, I might as well. The top being off does reduce the structure stability, so I need to compensate for that

[rsicard]

So.. I am thinking of downgrading the engine aspect of the build to a used stock LS1 w/ megasquirt 3 .. and go from there if I want more power, it's easy enough to add... Should make it easier on me, and provide a cheaper engine build. If my aim is 12-13 1/4 miles, I have a feeling the stock LS1 can get pretty close, or be nudged there with a little help.

 

What do y'all think?

 

PhaTTy:

 

The ONLY advantage a LSx has on the Gen I and II Small Block Chev is a factory stock lightweight aluminum block. The latest factory LSx cylinder heads have gone full circle back to rectangular intake ports (ala Gen I, II and BBC) from cathedral ports. With similar displacement the results are nearly the same between Gen I/II and III/IV. The LSx parts are more expensive than Gen I and II parts and the latter are more plentiful. Scrap that convertible notion and get an early 240Z that is in fairly good and compete condition and start from there. You won't regret it.