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Need some serious assistance, car is running pig rich


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Ok everyone, here are the basics. 1978 280z with header and full 2.5" exhaust, everything else is bone stock. My mom was driving the car to work today and it bogged down and shut down. Now no matter what it is just dumping fuel (I think) and won't idle or rev without stumbling on its face. I checked all the plugs and they were filthy black. Cleaned them out and car still ran the same. I check continuity in the injectors, they all have continuity. I check the air gap in the distributor and its at .3mm. Distributor also has new cap and rotor. I then check ohms in the coil and got 1ohm. Manual says 1.6-2.0ohms. I checked the pick-up coil and it has .777kohm, book says it should be .720kohm i believe. Car is not running the cold start injector or any of the sort. The only thing I forgot to check was the throttle sensor. There is a car show in two days we have been busting ass for the past year to go to and 2 days before all hell breaks loose. I posted pictures of the readings to make sure I had the settings right on the voltmeter. Please any help would be greatly appreciated. Also the timing right now is fully advanced and it still is running super rich, anything other than full advance will not rev at all, it just pops.

 

Pick Up Coil

img00100201104010931.jpg

 

Coil

img00101201104010940.jpg

Edited by Supa Troopa
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I assume this is an S30 since you posted in this forum. Rich like that could be the thermotyme cold injector is pomping fuel in. You can unplug that. More likely your AFM is stuck. Just pull off the hose and reach in there and move the flap up and down a few times. then restart the car and see how it acts. if it's better, then you'll need to clean up the AFM. I know there's a posts on here all about the AFM so I'm not going to explain how to do it. Try that and let us know what it does...

 

Phar

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I didn't think to check the afm. Thanks for the tip. It seriously had been running great and then just took a dump. Honestly at higher rev it clears out some(and I mean some.. Not much..) Everything else is super rich. I will find the clean thread and take a look at the afm tonight. Thanks again. What about the numbers on my ignition parts? Are the within spec?

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AFM Was good, not stuck. I ended up changing the pick-up coil and the other thing in the distributor, the thing you check the air gap of .3mm on. When I took it off it appeared the have rubbed against the distributor. Do these distributors get shaft play after so long? Car is running normal again. Thanks for all the help and second places to look when I thought I covered it all.

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I had the same thing happen to mine once, turned out to be the cylinder head temp sensor on the front by the distributor. Nissan doesn't sell the correct one anymore, but we did a bunch of cross referencing at an old school parts house, and wound up finding one for a toyota pickup that fit and worked perfectly. Basically when that thing conks out it makes the fuel injection dump heavily so you get black smoke on acceleration, and finally clog up your plugs, and possibly washing the cyliders in the process. There's a procedure how to check the sensor in one of my old chilton manuals, which is in storage at the moment, but see if you can find it. Also another real quick easy check is to swap FI computers with someone real quick, altho in my experience, the car quits completely when those fail.

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