Ernest Harmon

Keep up the good work and good luck with your project.For some inspiration while not z related look at this save. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=340552

Well I have done my floor repairs although not to the original turbo car I got an 82 for $250.00 this is what I have done so far. Work is slow but steady,or was mashed some fingers last week and pretty much out of commission for now.The turbo is not a dead project yet I am just not sure how I want to proceed with it.Fix both or build a killer car from the two.If I combine them I can get the body work done and save the time and cash finding the stuff I need for the 82 and just rob it from the turbo car. Get the body interior and suspension sorted out.Then pull the turbo engine and go through it and go with megasquirt for ems and let it control everything.I don't have a boat load of funds so things take time and I prefer to do as much as absolutely possible.If I don't know how I will ask somebody that does or find a good book on the subject and figure it out. Here is a link to the pics so far.

You don't want to use flux core wire to do body panels with it is too hot.You need to use a gas mix and a good .023 or .024 solid wire.

Have you changed the fuel filter? While you have the tank out you might as well replace all of the fuel hoses with new to be on the safe side and for peace of mind.

You need to look here. http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html download the zip file for your car.The "TPS" Throttle position sensor varies its value based on where the throttle is positioned.As far as a fuel system flush some SeaFoam or a quart of NAPTHA "in the paint section at the hardware store" with a fill up will help.You may have a cold start valve issue also.

Lack of back pressure should not effect the timing.You need to set the timing with a light.The removal of the cat will let the turbo spool up faster due to no restriction to hold it back.Have you checked the tps for proper operation or the AFM?

Think about your original post.After seeing that removing the wire from #3 and not seeing a change did you swap that plug wire with another one to see if the wire was the problem? If you did and still had the issue then it's not the wire.Put them back as they were.Next remove the plug look for fouling,improper gap or a cracked insulator and replace or regap as needed if fouled it will be more involved."the boost leaks very bad". Where is the boost leak?Is this a stock set up?I can tell you from personal experience with my 81 zxt they do not like any kind of leak in the intake system when completely stock.This includes vacuum leaks.Mine would not run right on anything but NGK plugs BPR6ES-11's.Don't expect the gap to be right out of the box they aren't they may be close but not close enough.If all of this is right check the turbo for excessive slop.If you can feel the shaft move up and down the turbo needs rebuilt.If you feel no slop take the cat off if it is still there and go for a spin if that solves the problem it is time for 1 of 2 things a new cat or a cat delete.I didn't have anyone to tell me this stuff in the beginning and had to trust the service manager and got took for a turbo and a cat when the cat was probably the issue all along.After that incident I read and learned as much as I could on the car and started doing my own work.

I am working on the floors in my 82 right now.I cut just what was bad out and replaced with 18 ga.I did the floor supports in 1 x 3 steel tubing.I hope to finish them up this week.I also have an 81 turbo to have do.With it I think I am going to re do the whole floor and a rework of the floor supports is going to happen also.Your work looks good.It is just a slow process to do right.

Just use rear view mirror glue and tape them into place until it sets up.

I did my 81 zxt's headliner over 20 years ago.I had the same issue.I pulled the headliner out board and all.Brushed what was left of the foam off.The used a clean dry rag and just scrubbed everything that was still stuck to the board until I got it as clean as I could.I used the 3M spray can glue for carpet and tops.I got some more foam from the local fabric shop and a piece of vinyl and cut them to the shape I needed.I sprayed the hardboard insert and let it set up per the can.I then sprayed the back of the foam and let it set up.Then I sprayed both the hardboard insert and the back of the foam and applied the foam and let it dry over night.I did the final trim of the foam to the insert and opened up all of the holes that needed opened,dome light,map light.Next day I sprayed the foam with the glue and the backside of the vinyl and let it dry good.Then applied the glue to both parts and put the vinyl on the insert and let it dry and did the final trimming and reinstalled.It has held up really well and I only spent $25.00 and a couple of evenings.

slownrusty man I love that white car.I hope when I get back on my 81 turbo I can manage to turn it into a black similarity.The car just looks wicked.With the head on pic in the above post I may be able to build a plug for a similar spoiler.Working on my 82 NA car now.Thanks for posting.E

When you get into them the "frame rails"will make you wonder.There really is not much to them.They are more like floor pan stiffeners.I raised my car in the front from under the cross member and set the front of the car on a pair of ramps with solid cap blocks under them.Raised the rear by the diff housing and supported it the same way.Cut out what needed cut out and replaced it.I am working on the passenger side now.The frame rails do attach to some pretty good metal at the kick up at the toe boards.If you go the tubing route you will need to address the opening left at this transition when the original rails are removed if you have to go that far forward.From the pictures you posted you need to go that far.Your problem looks almost exactly like mine.Don't feel bad I have an 81 turbo that has the same issues.It will be next to go under the knife.