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m1ghtymaxXx last won the day on July 7 2014

m1ghtymaxXx had the most liked content!

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About m1ghtymaxXx

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  • Birthday 06/16/1988

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    St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada

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  1. Here's some old pics with 225/50s that give a better idea of the poke. I would say the tires would interfere with the airdam before they would rub the fenders. I did mount up some 215/60s which had that issue, they would only fit the rear.
  2. 0 offset, plus 8mm spacers on the front. The tires in this pic are actually 205/55s as the selection of 225s has dropped off over the past few years, but it never once rubbed with the various 225/50s and 225/45s I've had on it. I only bought them because several others reported no issues with the same wheels and tires.
  3. It shouldnt' take any real work to make them fit. I run 15x9s with 225/50r15s with sock fenders and stock strut housings with Eibach lowering springs. All it took was 1/4" spacers to clear the struts, though I went with 8mm for peace of mind. Fenders aren't rolled and it has never once rubbed despite aggressive driving on rough roads. Of course the setup mentioned has 1" greater tire diameter but I think you're severely overestimating what's involved.
  4. Often referred to as a "frame horn" or similar.
  5. Bit late to the party, but what size filler are you using? The only way to keep the heat low enough on thin stainless is to use thin filler, like 0.040" or less. If you can't find it, MIG wire works in a jam. I snip off a couple feet, put one end in the vice and chuck the other into a drill put some tension on it and spin it until it breaks. Than stick it back in the drill and turn it the opposite way until it breaks and then you should have nice straight length of filler for TIG.
  6. I bought an Everlast 200DX almost 3 years ago would certainly recommend it. I've used Miller Dynasties and cheap Princess Auto (Canuck Harbour Freight) machines as well. They all weld basically the same, so the difference comes down to reliability, ease of setup, duty cycle, value etc. My Everlast hasn't had a hitch, and I chose it based on their customer service reviews, and the fact they had a Canadian distributor. And of course the price. My only complaints about mine are that the LCD screen only displays voltage. It's not a problem 99% of the time, but now and then I like to play wit
  7. This sounds like a similar issue to my 77. I wasn't able to start it after taking it out of storage (storage meant frozen into my driveway this winter unfortunately). First thing the fuel pump wouldn't fire, so I bench tested the fuel pump relay and AFM and both tested good. After reinstalling the AFM it fire right up, so my guess was the flapper was slightly stuck after sitting, and my starter is on a button so the fuel pump won't be triggered by the ignition switch, though this has never been a problem. Once started I was able to drive the car just fine for about 2 hours, once losing p
  8. I found this site that has a good selection of springs that may be suitable in place of washer stack, here's a chart of potentially suitable spring sizes. The same site sells belleville washers also so I was thinking of putting in an order for new washers and a spring and test fitting both. I think one of the main issues with the belleville washers is that each side of the stack spins in opposite directions and the washers wear against each other giving them a sharpened edge, and if one cracks, all that friction must tear it to shreds such as the case of one of my large washers.
  9. After 3 seasons one of the large Belleville washers disintegrated and filled my diff with metal shavings. After a teardown and inspection it seems everything is okay except for a some slightly bent and chipped teeth on the helical gears inside the LSD unit. My plan of attack is to grind down any high spots on the gears, (possibly even weld up and grind down low spots too), then reassemble the carrier and give it to a local driveline shop and have them pull the pinion shaft, thoroughly clean the case and reassemble everything using new pinion bearings and reusing the carrier bearings and shims
  10. Just left a comment on your youtube video before posting this. Is the USB port just for charging or can you use it to play music as well? Just 2 sound channels (right and left, no front and rear)? Does it have RCA amp outputs?
  11. I've had to wire push button starts in both my 77 and 83 Z's. My electrical knowledge is minimal and I had no trouble cobbling together a working system from individual components. Here's what you'll need: - Momentary switch - 4 pin relay & pigtail - Constant fused 12v+ - Wire & spade terminal to fit the starter solenoid, ring terminal for ground. - Multimeter - Soldering iron etc. to make some splice connections. Chose a location for your starter button. In my 77 I used a knockout in the center console about the hazzard light switch. I brought the knoc
  12. That's the first I've seen a flex plate used with a manual transmission? What does it take to make it work? I presume a friction surface is welded or bolted on? New holes drilled for the pressure plate? No issues with the the flexibility or strength of the thin flex plate?
  13. Did you look to see if the circlips were bent out of shape?
  14. ^ I came to post the same thing. Moment resistance may not be your friend, and if the pinned connection weren't pivoting, the bars would probably be flexing. The fact that it's a triangle means it should keep its shape in both axis on the horizontal plane.
  15. Hub arrived and installed thanks to NW240Z!
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