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5 Star Rising

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Everything posted by 5 Star Rising

  1. So I have a early 71 240 and the dash board is shot, I mean there is 5" sections of pad missing. I picked up another early complete dashboard from a guy the other day minus the gauges. It has the metal frame with it and even the vin# tag from the other car.. It will need to be restored as well but only has a few cracks. My car still has all the gauges installed in it but you can reach through the top of the dash and unplug gauges and wiring if needed, I may install a wideband where the clock is if I can find a good one to fit. I have not removed a 240 dash before. My question is, is it easier to remove the old dash pad from my car and install the new restored dash pad in its place and leave all the gauges in my car plugged it. Or is it better to remove the entire metal frame from the car with old pad and unplug all the wiring? I would like to save time on this but dont want to make things more difficult by not having access. What is the best way to do this for my situation being that I have 2 metal dash frames and one good dash pad? And any recommendations on a descent wideband that fits in the clock location?
  2. I figured I would need to pull it, just thought I would ask first in case I wasted a bunch of time for no reason. Oh well, I will get started on it today. Any advice or certain steps I need to take when pulling a 240 dash?
  3. I been dealing with this same issue since day one and so many times I thought I had fixed the issue but some how it still remains. Early 71 240z that I bought last year from a tow yard and don't know the history of the car. What the car does: When revving engine it misses and spudders in all RMPS and backfires, seems like it runs a little better when the choke is pulled back then when opening the choke all the way it will bog down and back fire sometimes, just runs like crap and I have yet to take it out for a test drive other than a few feet down my court when I hit the gas it just bogged down like it was flooded and I had to feather the throttle to get it back up into my garage. Things I have done: Removed and rebuilt the carbs after watching the 4 hr Just Su video, set the float levels, still ran like crap. Did new tune up, plugs and wires, cap and rotor still ran like crap. Did compression test 168 psi across the board, found plug wire 3 and 4 swapped from prior owner, RAN GOOD for a while in garage HAD SMOOTH IDLE and I was able to set timing. Let car sit for a few weeks and then started it and it ran like crap again and backfired, I thought maybe a bad balast resistor,points or coil, said what the hell and bought and New Pertronix Ignitor and 3.0 Ohm coil started car up and it ran like crap still with the new set up, after pulling my hair out I took off the new distributor cap and checked the rotor, everything looked fine but I noticed wow I can move the rotor side to side about 1/8", the series 1 distributor shaft had a TON of play, I thought a 100% sure this was my problem, so I bought a new reman dizzy from Auto zone and the shaft was tight even came with a new vacuum advance in which my old unit was shot. Installed the new dizzy and swapped in the new ignitor and fired it up ,same issue still spudders and backfires!! I'm wondering a few things, the past owner was a tweaker from what the tow truck driver told me lol, I found crazy wiring behind the dash, his own homemade toggle switch to run the headlights because the factory switch broke, also he had installed a aftermarket fuse box that actually fits nice and uses the square fuses. But I'm wondering if this guy has some kill switch wired somewhere allowing the car to run but poorly, wonder if I can bypass the ignition some how. I also wonder if my carbs are screwed up some how, or if this guy put in some kind of cam in the motor, it's sounds lopey at idle but may be just due to it running like crap, I thought about adjust valves but with 168 psi in each cyl I didnt adjust them. What gets me is after I found the 3 and 4 spark plug wire swapped i truly thought I had solved the riddle cause it ran WAY better and didnt backfire anymore it had a smooth idle down to 700 rpm, but after letting it sit something happened. Could it still be electrical? like bad ignition switch or relay? It sounds electrical to me lIke the plug wires are swapped or something is not firing right in time. There are not much to these old cars what am I missing here?
  4. I forgot to mention, when I test drove the car yesterday I only noticed the popping/miss at a high RPM pull..this was after leaning out the carbs. I took the car back home and richened them about a half turn each, then went on another test drive and the high RPM popping/miss went away. Definitely the fumes are rich but it seemed to run better that way. And I got to tell you, this little car sounds amazing. Has that throaty racing sound with this exhaust system.
  5. What about the vented rectangle panel that mounts to the inside of the hatch, can those bring in fumes as well? I have a series 1 car but I put a series 2 closed panel on the hatch because that's all I had, I was going change it out later to the original vented panel but now I'm wondering If non vented panel might keep more fumes out. And what the heck is the purpose of the hatch vent system? Obviously it was put there for a purpose.
  6. Yes i set the needles like you had mentioned. And also how the Ztherapy video mentioned.
  7. So if the car runs good but the exhaust is a bit rich that is ok? When I come inside after working on the car, my cloths smell like I took a bath hydrocarbons. Almost as if I was standing in front of the tail pipe for an hour but I wasnt haha. Then again there is no cat converter on the car. Wonder if there is a better way to divert the exhaust from coming inside the cab. Maybe add some pipe and extend the muffler out a bit past the bumper.
  8. Good read Miles. So I took the car for a test drive and it ran great. I believe this whole time I had 2 issues. The plug wires being swapped wrong from the PO in the beginning of this thread. After repairing that it obviously ran wa better but I still had a miss and back fire in the motor when reving it. After this last weekend of going through the cars, I got rid of the back fire and gained clean power for once. I know it was a carb issue because when I took it for a test drive yesterday out of the garage it ran great with no Miss but I felt like it was running a bit Rich out of the tailpipe and exhaust was in entering the cab, probably do to the series 1 hatch vents and that I have headers and a straight pipe with race muffler that is about flush with the rear bumper. I was reading some threads on this being somewhat normal for a Z. Just for the heck of it I leaned out the carbs a little bit and took it back out for a test drive by doing that I got that same Miss and loss of power that I had before so then I rich and them up a little again and the car ran fine. At least now I have the floats set so that I can actually make a fine tune adjustment on the bottom of either carb as before I would screw down both carburetors as far as they would go to get maximum richness and still not make a difference.
  9. Made some amazing progress today. Spent my only day off working on the SU carbs but it was worth it. So I have not test drove the car yet but I got rid of the back fire out of the carbs and also out of the tail pipe and it sound and revs up great. I took your guys advice on a few things and it helped a ton thank you!! First thing, the tabs on my floats were bent the wrong way, I looked up some pictures of néw floats and followed the bend in the tabs and shaped them correctly, I set the float levels correctly watching the videos you guys posted and also following my shop manual, set the firewall carb ever so slightly richer to offset the stance of the motor. I cleaned the SU pistons for any grit, had a hell of a time doing a drop test on the pistons, I had bent needles and the needles also had scratches and rust at the top of the needle so the piston would not go all the way down and make that clunk sound, took the needles out and put them in my drill and pressed down on them on a rag to help straighten them, i took 800 grit sand paper and took off any burrs that were on the top of the needles. I adjusted my choke cable as it was binding on the front carb, i changed one of my nozzles as it was more centered than the one that was in there, I adjusted the jet needles by slightly tightening them and pushing them into the carb while pushing up on the nozzles and then tightening the needle set screw, this was done with the nozzles turned all the way up in the max lean position. The pistons then fell down nicely and made that clunking sound while hitting the bottom. I then used 10-40 motor oil in the plungers instead of ATF. And wow what a difference in resistance, both carb pistons went up super slow and with great resistance compared to the ATF. I started the car and tuned the carbs using a Air Flow Meter and followed the ZTHERAPY notes I had written down from watching the video. My car runs soooo much better and no back fire at all. Its now getting all the fuel it needs and not running lean like before. I can only hope it drives as good as it sounds in my garage. I will have to test drive it after work one day this week. Thank you guys for the helpfull info. I knew there was something off with these SUs. Mainly the owner (myself) half assing adjustments because of limited time. Fingers crossed that she drives good under a load.
  10. Thanks miles, but I'm more concerned with if I have the correct components in these carbs to even start with. Following a manual with the incorrect parts for my carbs that someone else may have installed will get me no where.
  11. The ears on both my front and back lids are the same length.
  12. I have a set of each of these 3 needle valves. All pretty similar in length.
  13. I have to have my float set like this to get fuel up to the top of the nozzle.
  14. Something isn't right I feel like the shorter needle valves would fit better then these tall ones thus lowering the entire setup inside the bowl. I thought I remember seeing different ones in the past as well but it's been a long time. I put two washers on each needle valve to raise it even more and I feel like I'm rigging it.. I finally got the fuel up close to the top of the nozzle but the float has to come up so high to the lid that it's almost sideways and bottoming out. Something is not right.. i have spent hours today trying to get the fuel in the bowl High Enough to where I can see the fuel almost flush with the top of the nozzle while having the nozzle screwed all the way in to the top. Think I may have the wrong set up in these from the beginning.
  15. Gonna try some washers to raise the needle valve and see if that makes a difference
  16. I cant seem to set these floats right. Do I have the right float and hardware in here? Seems like the fuel bowls are not filling up enough, when I pull the floats out on both carbs the bowls are only like a 1/4 of the way full. Cant even see the fuel in the nozzle when looking straight down into the nozzle with a flashlight. I cant seem to bend the tabs enough so the bowls will fill more with out having the float touching the lid at a steep angle, but then I run the risk of the bottom of the float hitting the side of the wall first before closing the needle valve. Any suggestions on this?
  17. Thanks Inline. I actually watched 2.5hrs of the Ztherapy SU video again last night as I had not watched it for about a year. I had written down most of the info you gave me above about the carbs and I also remember following the video and setting the needles correctly last year, what I did pick up in the video this time around was my float levels, I remember trying to set them like the video but I did not have gross jets, as I tried to set the float levels the way it shows on the video the weight of my float kept calapsing the needle valve so I was unsure if it was set correctly, I am getting a lean condition and back firing out of both carbs when the choke is off, I also have the carbs set to the richest position. Before I pull my valve cover I'm going to raise my float levels a bit and see if that gets rid of the lean condition and backfire. I had only messed with the float level one time and I felt unsure at the time if they were acurate. I will try this today and see if something simple like the float level is causing this. This could actually be a separate issue that I created from the very beginning, as in earlier posts I had mentioned that I had found 2 spark plug wires swapped from the PO. It obviously made a huge difference, but I am stuck with the backfiring lean condition that I may have caused by trying to fix the first issue lol. I know.. sounds stupid. It is a possibility. I will definitely start all over if this float adjustment does not work today.
  18. A few more random carb pics, incase someone sees something out of the ordinary.
  19. Here is a picture of one of the needles that was in my car. It has a "Z" on the side. The other needle on the left in the picture is out of a 72 240z that I got from a friend it was not in my carbs but just used as a reference. Does the one on the right look like a racing needle? I have no idea what to look for in comparison.
  20. Thanks Inline. That is some good info. I actually replaced the distributor and have the same issue. The shaft on the old distributor had a ton of play and the vacuum advance diaphragm was shot. So I got a rebuilt unit from Autozone, the new shaft was tight and the diaphragm in the vacuum advance acually held vacuum pressure with a vacuum pump how ever the advance mechanism did not move very much even applying a bunch of pressure. I cant see the engine producing as much vacuum as I pumped in that thing, so the advance probably does not work too well with the reman unit. However with the new distributor and electronic ignition excluding the points and condenser, I still have the issue. I tried the timing in mutiple positions btdc and extremly advanced and had the same issue. I wish I had a spare set of good running carbs to bolt on and see if it ran different.
  21. I have a old school air/fuel mix machine with a stinger that I got at a garage sale a few years ago. I hooked it up last year and it said the carbs were a bit rich at idle, I'm not sure how accurate that machine is. I watched that z therapy video 3 or 4 times already and followed it. But still getting the same result. This isn't my first Z, and I never had a issue like this before. Going to check the needles this weekend. Wondering why I can clean up the miss when I pull the choke back. Also going to watch that video again..... this is getting old.
  22. I went through the ignition system already, timing, new distributor, new coil, got rid of the points, went electronic ignition, same issue. How can I make the carbs run rich with the choke open all the way? Seems like it is not getting enough fuel. Runs better when I choke it and cut the air consumtion in half thus balancing the air fuel mixture better. As soon as I open the choke all the way it seems like the carbs are getting way more air than fuel. Would raising the float levels so that the fuel almost pours out the top of the nozzles help richen the mixture? It backfires out of both carbs when I Rev it and the choke is fully open. Doesn't really back fire when I pull the choke back a bit. I have both carbs set to maximum rich settings and it doesnt seem like it is enough fuel.
  23. The car never ran right, i used cans of carb cleaner to find small vacuum leaks never found any the car ran the same. Tonight I started the car after months, it idled good and reved up good and smooth with the choke pulled 3/4 of the way back, as soon as the car fully warmed up I open up the choke all the way and reved the car. I got the back fire out of the carbs and that miss. Im thinking maybe the carbs are just super lean even though I have the adjustments on the bottom of each carb set to the richest possible setting maxed out . Maybe it's still not enough fuel. Is there a way to make these carbs even more rich? Like maybe adjusting the float levels more?