5 Star Rising

https://www.jegs.com/i/Xenon/456/5128/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710854035&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=54888473260&CATCI=aud-300525381059:pla-324540358520&CATARGETID=230006180040346220&cadevice=m&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwr7p3orA2wIVSIh-Ch1tnQX_EAQYAiABEgJq4vD_BwE

First question: I have seen these wheels on this Orange Z on the Internet but I cant seem to find out info about them. I'm sure someone knows what they are, including the owner lol. Are those 16x8s? Zero offset? Also what brand, and model are the wheels? If I got a set of these, would I need to modify anything on my early 71 to fit them or to keep them from rubbing? 2nd question: I'm looking for a 4" spoiler for my 71, I want to have it painted as well. Anyone know anything about the spoilers they sell at Jegs? Says it will fit 70-73 240z but there is no picture of it and not sure how well it would fit or look. Here is a link. I'm considering a BRE also, but was curious about the Jegs unit with free shipping. -Ch1tnQX_EAQYAiABEgJq4vD_BwE

Today I tested my combo switch on the bench and got zero continuity through it in any position. I opened up the switch and noticed I was missing one of the spring loaded caps inside that push the switch blades up and down to make contact. I rebuilt my combo switch using parts from another broken series 1 combo switch that I had. And installed it in the car and as soon as I turn my ignition on I hear that loud buzing coming from the relay that is mounted to the wiper motor body and for some reason my RPM gauge starts bouncing around randomly.. this is with the combo switch in the off position and just the key on. When I turn the wipers on the first click they come on like they should and the buzz goes away same with the fast speed setting. I turned the switch back off and left the ignition on so the buzzing was still going and I started unplugging wires to see if the sound would go away. First I unplugged the wiper relay harness from the relay and the buzz kept going, I then started unplugging the individual wires that go to the combo switch and it wasn't until I unplugged the main square harness plug from the combo switch that the buzzing sound went away. This buzzing sound happened for a bit with my old wiper motor/ relay also, and also with both combo switches and both wiper relays. I feel like something is back feeding power to that relay. Maybe I plugged something in wrong when I installed the dash back in the car. Sucks. Well I had a seized wiper motor and a bad switch that are both working now, but got this buzz and erratic RPM gauge needle going crazy. I remember that rpm gauge doing this last year also randomly..

This is what I did and found out today about the wipers. 1. Turn ignition and wiper switch on and nothing happens, no relay clicking sound no wiper motor trying to turn..nothing 2. Installed old broken combo switch and turned wiper function on, now I can hear relay clicking on passenger side but no wiper motor coming on. 3. Bench test wiper motor and getting nothing, not a budge or sound. Found another 240z wiper motor in my shop, bench tested it and it turns on and spins. 4. Removed old wiper motor and confirmed it was seized, could not spin shaft with wrench, could in fact spin shaft on 2nd wiper motor. 5. Installed 2nd wiper motor in car, but this motor has a (6th) wire that is yellow, my car harness only has 5 wires (where would I hook the yellow wire and do I need it?) 6. Put back good headlight combo switch, turn ignition on and hear a loud buzzing sound coming from wiper motor possibly from relay that is mounted to the motor itself, this is with the wiper switch set to off and just turning on the key, can only shut it off by turning off the key. 7. Install old switch (with broken headlight function) back in car. Turn on ignition no buzzing, turn wiper switch one click and hear loud buzzing , turn another click and wipers turn on and buzzing goes away, turn another click and wipers go faster and buzzing still gone. First click has buzzing and no wipers. 2nd and 3rd click seem to work. I'm dealing with a lot of unknowns with these old parts. I have a spare wiper motor relay that mounts to the passenger side, not sure if it works or not, also I'm thinking of trying to take apart and build one good switch if that is possible. I have a extra yellow wire coming off this motor as well that I need figure out or leave alone. And need to figure out that buzzing. Maybe someone could help me troubleshoot this. Sounds like i started with 2 or 3 different problems for the same circuit.

So as far as the wipers go I think I have two problems. The switch and the motor. I found my old switch that I replaced because the headlights didn't work. I hooked that switch up and turned the dial for the wipers and now I can hear the relay click on the passenger side, my new Switch never made that relay click when I turn the dial also it doesn't feel as stiff as my old switch when turning it. So that sucks. Then I bench tested the wiper motor in the car and got nothing, luckily I hoarded some Datsun Parts over the years and had another wiper motor. I bench tested that motor and it turned on. So I removed my motor out of my car and sure enough it was frozen solid I could not turn it over what so ever with a wrench or vise grips but the other motor I could spin around one direction. Other than snapping a rusted bolt off in the process (always something) it looks to be a good replacement motor. Looks like this motor has an an additional yellow wire for the lock I believe, but my car harness doesn't have a place for it..does anyone have info on this wire or how I can connect it? Thanks

Sorry guys I'm bouncing all over the place with things today with the electric system and PO hacking. So I'm wondering where the wiper motor relay is located on my early 71. I checked the passenger kick panel area and only see a hazard flasher and one other relay that looks like a wiper relay but has different wires going to it that are not on the FSM. I will recheck but I dont think there was any other similar plugs that I could have plugged in wrong but maybe.. damn.

Update*** Forget the rear defroster system... Just found out the switch is bad in my console, not to mention the vertical defroster wires in my back window glass are pretty chowed any ways. Looks like this switch is just going to be for looks in the center console. Oh well dont plan on driving my car in the dead of winter anyway or leaving it over night somewhere out side for the window to get super fogged up. Now onto the wiper motor issue.

Think just found the power wire for my rear window defrost switch. I actually ran continuity from my meter from the back window red black wire and I picked up the continuity under the dash on the red black wire..duh... now I just need to find out where the green wire off the switch attaches to.. On the rear window the other wire is black and when I run continuity it seems as if that wire is going to chassis ground so I'm wondering if I could just tie the green wire off the switch to any ground source and be good

I actually did what you said yesterday besides making a spread sheet. I wrote them all down and tested each one then labeled them with masking tape. This is how I was able to connect my power antenna, radio and map light. Also checking each circuit by pulling the fuse to see my test light turn off to see which circuit that wire was on. Just need to figure out where the rear defroster switch wires plug into and why my wipers dont work. Oh and might take apart my clock and apply synthetic clock oil to the mechanical mechanism and see if it will come back to life. Then the interior is pretty much done for now.

Wires from my rear defroster switch going up under dash/radio area. Where do I plug these?

Do you know where to apply 12v on the wiper motor harness? I am about to dive into the wiper motor challenge. I didn't mention before that yesterday I went on a wild goose chase with no reverse lights but found the issue was the PO put his own connector on one of the reverse switch leads which had popped off happy to fix that. Actually on my early Z the rear window defroster switch is located on the rear of the console but the wires run up into the radio area under the dash and I cannot seem to find where they plug in. Wonder if my harness has a place for them. I am adding this switch where the PO had removed it. So close to closing everything up under the dash and moving onto body work.

I had checked the wiper motor harness at the fire wall last night before coming in for the night. It was a little corroded, i cleaned it and plugged it back in but no wipers. I went inside and turned on the switch and then back out to the firewall and moved the harness in and out and back n forth but the wiper motor did not budge. I noticed when I had the switch off I had no power on any prong of the harness, but when I turned the switch on I had 12v power to one prong on the harness. Not sure how the power flows to this motor, I will try the FSM I have to better understand it. PO had a bad switch assembly where the headlights didn't work. I bought another switch off a guy who said the switch was for sale "but never tested".. lights worked fine but just now getting around to checking wiper motor circuit and I hope I didn't buy a bunk switch. Also do the wires from the rear window defroster switch run up into the radio area and attach somewhere?

Slowly but surely making progress with this electrical mess in the radio area..so far I've got my map light and aftermarket stereo and power antenna working and wired. But I did notice a few things that are not wired and are not working. I noticed that my windshield wipers are not working, to be honest I'm not sure if they ever did or at least I have never checked them.. Is there wiring that flows through the radio area that could be disconnected causing my wipers not to work? Or does that wiring route in a different area of the car? Tomorrow I can isolate and test the wiper motor some how, I might have a spare motor. The wiper fluid motor turns on when pushing the switch button in. Also PO removed the rear window defroster switch from the console and installed another metal plate in its place. I found a factory switch and cover and installed it in the console how ever I have the 2 wires (Red) and (Green/Blue) coming off the switch stubbed up behind the radio and no where to plug them. Where the heck do they go? I also have 2 wires hanging down from the dash harness behind the radio (Red) and (Green/White) not sure where they go as well, but I get 12v off the (Green/White) wire when I turn on the parking lights. Where the heck do these go? Following the FSM but hard to pin point where they go. Any help would be appreciated. Bummed, clock doesnt seem to work either, ran power and ground to it direct and shes dead.

I got a headliner from the Z store.com and you're right it was quite thick. Had to trim about an inch on the sides and the back because it was a little oversized. Also I thought I could be safe with the spray-on adhesive and not get it everywhere so I didn't tape off the upper vinyls and yes I ended up getting glue everywhere haha. But I used a clean cloth and that stuff called Goo Gone and it came right off no problem... I did however cover my up my seats with a old bed sheet. I used SEM gloss black vinyl paint on the new headliner and it look'

Hope this helps. Not sure what year your car is, but this is on my early 71.

Disregard that last post I found the brake light problem. As a ex-mechanic and current splicing technicIan for the phone company I got a little clever or so I thought. I used a wire tone generator and placed "tone" on the harness of one of my brake light socket power leads, on the other end at the connection block above right kick panel I was able to pick up my tone with a tone wand amplifier probe. I found that my tone stopped in that area and didn't make it to the correct wires on the TS switch or Hazard switch. I found that I had plugged in the wrong 3 prong plugs together that had the same plug. That's what I get for being slightly portly and not being able to see exactly what I was plugging in down there. Plugged the correct harness together and low and behold the brake light's and signals now light. I'm sure I will be on here tomorrow asking for more advice as I screw something else up or get stuck. I still need to trace those wires in the radio area tomorrow and see why they were cut and if needed.

Ugh. So now I have no brake lights, rear flashers or rear turn signals. They worked fine before I removed the dash. I do have tail lights though. Been reading posts about this same issue and following the troubleshooting info given. I have 12v at the stop fuse, 12v at the hazard switch (green/yellow), 12v at the Stop switch on one side, 12v leaving the stop switch when the brake pedal is pressed, 12v flowing up to the TS switch on yellow green and 12v coming back through the harness on white/red and white black and making it though the harness plug. Where does it flow after the TS switch? (Harness plugs then tail lights)? I should mention I had replaced all my bulbs in the car with LEDs. How ever my new Led brake lights worked before removing the dash. I also had my hands in the rear of the car and removed both tail light units so I could seal them to the car, all I did was unplug the harness sockets with the bulbs still in them and lay them on the rear carpet. I didn't mess with any ground wires. It almost sounds like a ground issue to me but stumped. I have 2 new LED flashers on order because the stock flashers won't work with my new LEDs. This day has been a bust. Open to any suggestions. I have the FSM.

Thanks JHM. I believe I had that FSM downloaded somewhere before but I downloaded again now..and that Body Electrical link you sent is awesome but its still a bit hard to determine the single wires that are cut. At this point I am going to keep searching the net for close-up pictures of 240 wiring and maybe I could piece it together. Took the day off work today which is rare, hoping to make some good progress today on the old Z. Including some body work. Summer is coming. Had this car sitting in my garage for 2.5 years and been working on it when I could. Time to get her in the paint shop, registered, and on the road by this summer. Cant wait.

This is what I got off the internet. If you stare at it long enough, you may begin to see purple elephants. Ha. Is there another FSM schematic that shows where you are better on the drawing? Like "these are the wires under the steering wheel. Red goes to blue ect"

Also while I'm at it, maybe someone could identify where these wires connect under the steering wheel. It would be too easy if they made the wires the same color so you could just plug them in.

So I restored my dash in my early 240z. I had took pictures before unplugging wiring but some how they got deleted off my phone. I know, should have labeled them. Also I'm dealing with a slight wiring hack job from the PO. He cut and taped up wires under the dash and installed a after market fuse block to fit bladed fuses kind of cool but not sure how important these taped up wires are, obviously they went some where at one time unless some were just used for factory options that my car didn't come with. I will also say that I'm bringing the interior back to stock as much as I can. The PO had a fabricated metal plate cut to size and mounted it over where the map light, vents and entire face sat. Now I'm installing the stock components back, and attaching heater pull cables and wiring. A little bit of a guessing game. I found a 1970 wiring schematic but it is a little hard to follow with some of these random wires. Does anyone know where this harness plugs in the picture below? Also where do the other 5 wires go? 3 are blue, 2 are white with one white wire having a black stripe.

Yeah seen that yesterday before I posted. Any one ever get one of those? Does it look pretty close to stock?

I have a early 71 240z and had a small cut in my headliner. I picked up a used headliner last summer out of another early 71 and removed it my self. I don't remember seeing any gaps in the roof as far as the headliner being too small but I might not have paid too close attention as all the plastic panels were already removed. Somehow during transportation I put a fold/crease in the headliner vertically. I remember last year I used a heat gun on the crease and put pressure on the crease by pulling it both directions when it was hot, it seemed to take out the crease. I then used SEM vinyl paint on the headliner and it turned out great. After doing so much with the car since last year, i finally got around to putting in the headliner today only to find the headliner is too small. From the center of the headliner near where the rear view mirror would be to the back of the headliner, I notice it is about 2" too short so the sheet metal roof is exposed. Im not sure what the hell happened. Im not sure if this headliner came this way from the other car sitting in 105 degree heat its whole life or if the heat gun or paint shrunk the headliner. I do remember comparing the 2 headliners last year and noticing the new one was a little smaller but I don't remember if that was AFTER I did the work to it or not, I just figured it would fit fine and that my old headliner had extra length that fit under the plastics, but today I found that this is not the case. This thing is way too small. I then tried to use a vinyl repair kit and fix my old headliner today but it turned out like crap. None of the cars were a 2+2 that the headliners came out of. Questions: Did the headliners come in different sizes from different manufacturers? Is there a way to Stretch this small headliner and make it bigger? Is it better to just buy a NEW headliner? And if so, where can I get one that looks stock for my series 1? Thanks in advance

I have a early 71 240z and had a small cut in my headliner. I picked up a used headliner last summer out of another early 71 and removed it my self. I don't remember seeing any gaps in the roof as far as the headliner being too small but I might not have paid too close attention as all the plastic panels were already removed. Somehow during transportation I put a fold/crease in the headliner vertically. I remember last year I used a heat gun on the crease and put pressure on the crease by pulling it both directions when it was hot, it seemed to take out the crease. I then used SEM vinyl paint on the headliner and it turned out great. After doing so much with the car since last year, i finally got around to putting in the headliner only to find the headliner is too small. From the center of the headliner near where the rear view mirror would be to the back of the headliner, I notice it is about 2" too short so the sheet metal roof is exposed. Im not sure what the he'l