5 Star Rising

Grabbed the wire grinder, and these panels are pretty bad. There was a good amount of bondo on the passenger panel. Looks like the rust is spread all over like cancer , there is tiny holes on the bottom. Thinking if I make patches and miss a spot it could maybe bubble my new paint later on in a different spot as its eating the metal from the inside out... I'm leaning towards buying those aftermarket panels.

I thought about selling this door to someone who could do metal work to it and save it.. Then I thought maybe I should just take all the parts off the rusted door shell and cut metal patches off it , then scrap it. Its probably from a 73 240z. Hate to see a 240z door get destroyed, but at the same time what could I get for it $20 bucks?

So you think the thinner 20 gauge would be better than 18 gauge on the series 1? I also have an old 240z door in my back yard where the bottom of the door is badly rusted but I was thinking about cutting some metal off the top of the door that looks descent. Looks like the PO did something to the seam between the lower quarter and the rocker panel on my car, going to get out my wire wheel and pull it back, might be bondo or rust. Wondering if I should put body filler over the seam to make it look like one piece when I'm done or keep the seam, I guess its preference. Do you guys leave the seam?

Hey so I'm building a early 71 240z and getting it ready for the paint shop. I have some rust that is kind of spread out in different spots on my lower quarter panels and I put a screw driver right through the panels.. I have never cut and replaced metal panels before, I only used bondo back in the day on my Chevelle and 20 years later that didn't work out so good. So my question is: going off the pictures, would you guys just cut and replace small sections of metal in the existing panels or buy the store bought panels from zcardepot and weld them in place. The panels are a little pricey and I wasnt sure if they are the same size and gauge of metal as stock.. Would I be doing more damage to my Series 1 by hacking the entire lower quarter panel out a d trying to weld in this aftermarket panel or is it best to just get some sheet metal and make my own patches? Thanks.

Yeah this thing wouldn't even try to start when spraying starting fluid into the intake. I have fuel squirting across the yard, i put a gauge on the fuel pressure and it was rather high I think like 90 psi or so. I put a spark tester off one of the coils and got spark while cranking the motor. It was then that i found these horrible compression readings. The motor sounds like there is no spark plugs installed when cranking it. Thanks for the manuals. I had downloaded those already. Was hoping that being a tooth off or 2 might be the cause of the valves opening incorrectly and giving me those readings, but yeah as a interference engine its probably toast.

Even though the line on the timing belt is lined up with the dimple on the cover the dimple on the sprocket with the white paint is not lined up.

Should the hydraulic tensioner be sitting flush with the bracket and have no gap? That's the way I found it. According to the sticker under the hood. This timing belt has been on for 27,000 miles. When I did the compression check, I did it dry as the motor had already been turned over a few times trying to start it from the PO and my self which could have done damage to the rings di cyl walls.. I got those low readings..then i poured some motor oil in and watched the guage slightly go up. One cylinder was at zero and stayed at zero even after oil was poured in. Another cylinder on the other head was at 70psi and went to 150 when oil was added. While the others were 30psi and went to 50psi with oil added. I left the gauge on each cylinder and watched if the pressure leaked down but they stayed about the same reading. I just want to get this thing started so I can drive it out of my backyard on it's own power and put a For Sale sign on it lol. Not looking to rebuild this thing. I have 3 other 240zs I'm building right now.

Hello, so I bought this non running 92 Z32 TT a couple months ago. Its pretty beat up, the PO bought it from some guy who had it sitting in a field for years. Zero history on the car..The PO couldn't figure out the electrical issues to get it to turn over. I fixed the electrical issues and I now can turn the car over with the key, i have fuel and i have spark, but no start. Did a compression test and the numbers were horrible something like 30psi,40,50,0, only tested the front cylinders I had access to at that time. The motor has that sound like there was no compression or like you didn't have spark plugs in the motor. Tonight I pulled the front of the motor down to check the timing belt. It looks like the timing belt hydraulic tensioner gave out and the belt loosened up and slipped a tooth or 2. I have the notches lined up at the crank but the upper sprockets do not line up perfect with their notches they are a tooth or 2 off.. I found The tensioner fully compressed and touching metal to metal with no gap. I have included some pictures of the sprockets not lining up uptop even though the crank is lined up at the bottom..When I turn the motor over manually I dont hear or feel any interference, unless the damage was already done.. (IS THERE A CHANCE THAT THE VALVES ARE NOT BENT AND BY RESETTING THE TIMING BELT CORRECTLY I COULD GET THE CAR TO START AND BE OK? HOW MANY TEETH OFF CAN YOU BE BEFORE YOU DO ENGINE DAMAGE?) Thanks

Anyone know anything about this theft system? Could it be why this car wont start? Can't find this decal online to find the manufacturer. Looks like a old sticker. Wonder if there is something planted in this car for security.

Picked up a 92 Z32 TT recently, dont know the history of the car but it's in rough shape. Its hasn't ran in probably 15 years. Found that the hood switch for the anti theft was broken off and causing no power to get to the fuel pump relay. I unplugged the switch and now I have a solid stream of fuel coming out at the motor before the filter.. also I found the fuel filter on backwards lol and the fuel pump relay extremely rusted inside. Got a new fuel filter, new fuel pump relay, and 5 gallons of fresh gas. I also seem to have spark when cranking the motor from a spark tester placed on a random cylinder. I have not yet checked fuel pressure, or timing. But what gets me is that when I spray starting fluid directly into the throttle body and crank the motor I dont even get the slightest backfire or indication that the car is trying to start. Usually on other vehicles you can do this and get a pop or something but I get nothing. Hoping there is not anything major wrong. Anyone ever have spark and fuel but no start? Anti theft? Crank sensor? Cam sensor? timing belt slip teeth? Fuel pressure too low? AFM? I'm a 240z guy, not familiar with this car or motor. Help would be awesome.

Ehh.. hell with it..

So I'm usaully on here for S30 240zs as those are my favs and i have a few, but today I could not turn down the opportunity to pick up a 92 Z32 Twin Turbo. It's in bad shape but for $400 what do you want. I was searching the site and couldn't seem to find what I was looking for. Is there a list of some sort that someone has put together for parts that interchange in the Z32s?. This car will need alot of random parts from body panels and spoilers to ashtrays and mirrors. If I find a Z32 at a junk yard that is a non-turbo which parts are the same as my car? 90-95 .There are so many parts and hard to list them all but was wondering if alot of them interchange and are the same part number. Like I need fenders, a spoiler, front bumper, wheels. This is my first Z32.. Thanks in advance

Here we are months later and I'm just now getting around to working this door, it's coming off for bodywork as I will be painting the car this winter. If the door needs shims where do they go? With the hinge bolts all loose at the body I can lift the door up and down, forward and back and I have the fenders off. Looks as if there is still a bit of a gap at the back of the door to quarter when pulling the door as far back as I can. Do you guys ever shim at the hinge to door location?

Yeah I have 73 240 also and the bracket and mounts are different. That bumper only has one small dent in it, I thought about swapping it out and welding in the brackets to the correct place, but that could be a bit of work and I'm not entirely sure if the actual bumper is the exact same size or not. (The bumper laying on the ground is the one in early pictures up above before I cleaned it up, removed the paint, and hammered out the big dents and creases.

I want to put this ride in a car show next summer. Very few shops where I live. There was one shop but when I called him about it he didn't even want to take a look at the bumper. Are 72 bumpers different? Going to keep an eye out. Maybe try some shops out of town.

The front bumper that came on my car was beat up pretty bad I was able to hammer out a lot of the big dents and get it as straight as possible however you can still see Hammer marks on the bumper. this will be going on a restored 240 with a new paint job ..I would like the bumper to be in good shape not sure if there is a way to repair this or send to somebody who can do that or is it better to just scrap it and pay the high dollar price for a new front bumper..

The front bumper that came on my car was beat up pretty bad I was able to hammer out a lot of the big dents and get it as straight as possible however you can still see Hammer marks on the bumper. this will be going on a restored 240 with a new paint job ..I would like the bumper to be in good shape not sure if there is a way to repair this or send to somebody who can do that or is it better to just scrap it and pay the high dollar price for a new front bumper..

I have had 12 S30 Z car's in the past, but this is my first early car and I plan on keeping her a long time, but you never know when life makes you sell things you don't want too. I think a nice re spray will go along way. Dents and dings all over the car currently being worked out but not much rust issues thank goodness. Should come out great even though it's not a full paint redue. Got the car 3 years ago for next to nothing, so a nice paint job should make a world of difference in the value of what I got into it. But at the end of the day it's not for sale. Going to be my prize ride. It's looking like 904 might be the paint..

Oops Seattle, I may have posted in the wrong spot... Rturbo, the original color was blue. Not a big fan of that color to be honest. The car will have a nice paint job but it will be done with the motor in it. So engine compartment will probably be cleaned and rattle canned gloss black over the old blue. Might look nice with white and black. As the interior is black also..

I have a early 71 240z 12/70. After this body work she will be getting some fresh paint. I know that the color is entirely up to me and what I prefer but I was wondering what you guys thought. So here's my situation , I like the Avacado Green color but according to "keeping it correct" the Avacado color didn't come out till Sept 71. I also like the kilamajaro white color that was available in many years but green would be my first choice. This car is not bone stock to start with, I have a spoiler and front valance, 5 speed trans, aftermarket rear carpet, headers, 3" exhaust, coil overs,triple webber carbs, electronic ignition. Will I ever sell my car? I hope not.. But if I had to, a die hard collector could always change back everything that I added to the car but the paint would not be correct. Back in the day these cars were found in the junk yard and abandoned and people would spray them any color they want but these days they are bringing big money and I'm wondering if should just go with the White paint and keep it a series 1 paint option. I'm sure there will be mixed thoughts on this coming from the guys who could care less and fully customize their rides and the collectors that need every nut and bolt correct.

The most quiet small violin is playing soft music as no one responds haha..

Question 1... I have a early 71 240Z that I'm restoring a bit. I want to get it in the paint shop soon but seems there is always some obstacle. My car was slightly hit in the front right headlight bucket area from the Prior Owner I guess. I was getting around to pulling panels and noticed my right (Passenger side) front bumper bracket sits about an inch lower than the right and the metal looks to be slightly caved in near the passenger side of the radiator. Is this considered (Frame Straightening) or is it more of just pulling out the sheet metal a bit? I can almost move it out with my bare hand by pulling on it. Is there a proper way to do this like with a come along and a tree or is this something I should pay to have straightend at a shop? Question 2. I have a set of doors that need work. One is rusted at the bottom and showing a few small rust holes but the body lines creases are straight in the door, then I have another door that is rust free but the body line creases are bashed in pretty bad and it would need to be reformed with filler. In your opinions, is it better to repair the door with rust and good lines or repair the rust free door that is bashed in? Or I guess option 3 keep looking to buy a good set of doors? Question 3. I just picked up a 73 240z running parts car that only has one small dent in the front bumper as opposed to my 71 bumper that is mangled. Is it possible to use a 73 outer bumper on my 71, I want to keep it original but not sure if they are the same thing, I know the brackets are different but I was wondering if it was possible to separate the chrome bumper from the bracket and change the mounts some how. Figure it's good to ask here before experimentin lol.

I will be taking my Z into paint shop soon after I get some of this body work taking care of at home. I have been really torn between the race look and keeping this series 1 car all stock. But I think Im going to add a spoiler and have it painted. I also have a fiberglass front valance that I may install and have painted as well. Are the BRE spoilers ready to paint out of the box or is a bunch of prep work needed?

Also do running those wheels require mods?

So Andy's has the same one cheaper? or a better one made of a different material? I was wondering if this Xenon spoiler was any good..They did not have a good picture of it. Also I have never owned a spoiler on any of my Zs so not sure which one is a good one.. I definitely do not want huge spoiler. And thanks for the info on the wheels