jeffer949

Very nice. will be cool to see how tight it is in the engine bay!

Turbo oil feed line, block adapter, turbo drain. I really have no clue how much for this. I know they dont come up for sale much especially with the block adapter. It may be slightly tweaked but its really close to original shape. Will package on a bog enough box. $150 plus shipping?

Oil cooler assembly. Includes everything from the block adapte, all four oil lines and the oil cooler and banjo bolts. $250 obo plus shipping. I flushed it out in my parts washer. Hoses and adapter where dirty but i cleaned them up. Does not appear to have any leaks.

Adding info I was given from Keas on these transmissions. I was given permission to share. In an email I was told that only a slightly stronger spring could be used in the Pressure modifier valve. This goes against what other build info I have found online. I think the info on replacing the plastic thrust bearing and modifying the planetary to be very useful. I have seen alot of people in my searching having broken thrust bearings or planetary failures. I know this is an old thread but trying to put this info in places it can be found JATCO 4N71B Rebuild Modifications.pdf

Hello everyone. I am building a 1984 Maxima wagon (not a Z but has the same basic drivetrain.) I have turbo'ed the stock L24e and have a L28et sitting on the stand to put in. My car is auto and has the L4n71b transmission. I am in the process of rebuilding a 1984 300zx Turbo auto transmission for the car which is a 4n71b. Firstly there is very little info on the internet about these transmissions and half of it is wrong. In my searching for info on how to build the 300zx transmission up to handle power the name KEAS from Australia keeps popping up. They seem to have done alot with the jatco transmissions in the performance world. Well I emailed them and asked for pricing on a valve body This is where I was shocked. They sent me the instructions on where to drill the separator plate and then he sent me the info on building up the transmission itself and how to address the weak points. I asked if I could share and he said yes so putting the info on here to help future builders. What is interesting is that they don't modify any of the springs per the level 10 info and the shift kit the guy from austraila sells. See details in the thread below. Little hard to follow but i think you can understand. Jeff, The only Valve that could use a slightly Stronger Spring is the Pressure Modifier Valve. Over-do the strength of the Spring and extremely late or nil WOT Shifting will occur. The Weak Areas in order of Failure are: Intermediate Shaft Input Shaft Over Drive Sprag. We have Billet Piston/ Servo Sets but your not there yet. See attached PDF for transmission upgrades. Have fun. Paul. Wow thank you so much for that info. I have the stock modulator from the turbo 300zx. And I have ATP nx-2 modulator. Thats adjustable that is listed for the turbo cars. Not sure about the diaphragm thickness. With the separator plate do I need to do anything with the valves? The info I've seen online say to shim the pressure regulating valve 2.54mm and the pressure modifier valve the same or install a stiffer spring.(or pin it for very firm shifts. From the link below. https://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/myz31/LevelTen_Performance_Automatic_Transmission_Install.htm At what point are the cast band pistons not viable and billet ones are needed? And yes the engine is a l28et from a 280zx turbo. Not sure if you ever got those in Australia but its the same l6 platform as the L24 from the 240zed etc. Jeff, I'll assume your Engine is Turbo Charged. The Valve Body (If it was from a Turbo Charged Vehicle) runs into Shifting issues around 13psi. And you cannot buy the Turbo Specific Modulator anymore. It contained a thicker diagram that lasted longer the NA items. I would fit a Full Manual Valve Body that has fixed Line Pressure. As a starting point- try modifying your Separator Plate as shown on the PDF Building a 1984 Maxima Wagon in the USA. Has a L28et from a 280zx turbo with a 4n71b from a 84 300zx turbo behind it. Planning on around 300 hp to the wheels Just replaced all the gaskets, seals, o-rings, clutches, steels, and bands set all clearances to factory spec. What valve body mods do you offer? Finding info in the states is hard and your name keeps popping up so I thought I would see what you offer and pricing. Thanks JATCO 4N71B Rebuild Modifications.pdf

Adding n42 intake. $350 $275 shipped in lower 48

Lowered prices by a good margin. Ill add more parts to a post below Just bought a L28et from a car with 90k on it. I saw a video of the car running but it wasn't building boost. But it idled well and tried to rev. Turbo is shot and hitting the housing on compressor and turbine side I took these off last night and have not cleaned them up and thought i would offer them up on here and see if i can get a decent price before I list them on ebay. Paying through Venmo is the best All parts are sold as is. 280zx turbo distributor, distributor shaft, cap and wires. As stated I saw videos of it running but I have not used it. Looks to be in good shape and the cap is newer and the plug wires seem to be pretty high quality and made in USA. $425 $350 OBO Shipped in lower 48 Turbo AFM. Looks to be in ok shape. Has been opened and is missing the cover. I have not put a multi meter on it to test but the car ran to well for it not to work. Comes with the bracket $190 $100 obo Shipped in lower 48 L28et Fuel rail injectors and Fuel pressure regulator. Appear to be stock injectors. I cycled them all with a battery and they sound good and do not sound gummy. Includes injector seals which are in really good serviceable shape. Not cracked that I can see. All pintle caps are present and the FPR holds pressure with my mighty-vac. $100 OBO Shipped in lower 48 Turbo manifold. In really good shape. Just as i took it off. All studs are good and heat shields are present. I believe this is the first time its been off and there was zero exhaust leaks on the turbo or the head side. $275. $175 Plus shipping. I want to calculate this one as its so heavy. Turbo Actuator. Good used actuator. Tested it with my mighty-vac and it holds pressure. $40 OBO shipped in lower 48 J-Pipe Paint is ok but its in good shape. The TB rubber is very pliable. Turbo side is serviceable but stiffer. $60 shipped in lower 48 I have other things ill get listed as i get pictures. Turbo oil pan, sensors and control valves on intake manifold. thermo housings etc. Things i might be convinced to sell. freshly bead blasted N42 intake. Complete oil cooler from block adapter to cooler,

I have been. And for those searching its nivlac57 on YouTube. I have a 84 maxima wagon and I measurd once when I had my engine out and it was to close to try. I am interested in yhe 5 cylinder though as it would fit under my hood.

Any Reason to find one if you havent been running one? Asking for a friend....

Who said anything about stock??? Its turbo'd but the the overdrive in the auto is .686 and a 3.7 rear end. It goes 80mph at 3k with the ac blowing cold and will stay cool even in 100 deg heat. But thanks. I think im gonna just have to buy one to try

Wy wouldn't you want cruise to set faster than 75? Interstates are 75mph and traffic goes 80. Turnpike speeds are 85.

Does some one know how fast you can set the cruise on 280zx or a z31 300zx? by that I mean is there a limit to the speed it will allow you to engage cruise control? I have a 1984 maxima wagon and my cruise works fine except that by design it wont allow me to set cruise past 75mph. Is this limitation the same on the 280zx and the 300zx? I'm looking to swap in a cruise control module from the same era of car that doesn't limit the speed. Ive already looked at the wiring and the 280zx looks to be plug in. and a 300zx will have to be reworked but doable. Thanks in advance.

Been done. If I recall correctly One member on here or on zcar.com ground them down by rubbing them on his garage floor.

Thabks for the info. I'm pretty sure I have a bit more with in my engine bay than a s30 does but yes I like the idea of making a cardboard mockup. Or maybe even 3d print one. Sorry to threadjjack. But thanks for the info

This is the one ive been looking at. https://www.siliconeintakes.com/front-mount-intercooler/water-to-air-intercoolers-p-213.html I believe i have room on the intake side right by the strut tower to sneak it in . I'm not doubting that its working well. And the fact that your not seeing those spikes is due to the thermal mass of the intercooler and antifreeze thats in it soaking up the heat from the charge temp. I guess my thinking is when is a colder IAT not a good thing? And what are you trying to avoid by having it run all the time? If its noisy and it bugs you. Sure, I can understand that. Its only pulling a few amps and I just dont see a downside other than maybe noise from the pump. With that said. Ill leave you alone to your decision. I dont run megasquirt currently but it seems that the simple way would be on off with a relay that you could tie into which ever data point you want. There isnt going to be one right answer for this. When autocrossing I would want it on 100% of the time. On your turbo setup. How do you like that turbo? When does boost come in? That turbo has been on my radar for the future. Im not looking for a hp monster any more. I want 300 ish hp to the wheels on my wagon. Its a cruiser not a drag car! What i want is power lower in the rpm range. I wont be getting the protunerz manifolds. while nice i know i just wont spend the money on them. But I may be convinced to go away from my 2nd hand cheapskate tendencies to get a nice turbo for once.