zboi

None of those upgrades are worth it. The car will still feel slow after all that unless you go way up on displacement or turbo. That said you can do just the turbo and none of the other things and the car will actually be fast. I spent about $1500 to turbo my engine, check my build, I got a lot done on that budget. You'll end up spending much more than that for much less power NA. That said, I liked my car more when it had the LS, and the LS swap is pretty easy.

You would be better off tying into the bolts on the cold side for your attachment point. That will drop a lot of heat too. Or you could try to use the two bolt holes near the top of the block if you have those. I used those for knock sensors but they would work good as a mounting point for the turbo

@toffee You know you can just do an image search to see where the engine sits, but spoiler it is behind the crossmember. I don't know why this matters so much though. The main thing I don't like about the VQ is the intake manifold with the rear exit, which means you have to chop off your factory hood latch and fit in some other form of latch instead. A turbo L-series will make over 300hp, but all the wear item parts on the L-series are becoming way overpriced. The LS family is the best for the money by far, and the arguably best manual transmission in the world is what bolts to them natively. Also you can fit an LS and TR6060/magnum in the car with the only modification to factory metal being some clearance of the stock transmission crossmember ears.

Does anyone run a knock sensor, particularly with a turbo car? I run two in the two holes at the top of the block, and get a lot of knock retard at higher rpms and higher boost. Its showing some pretty extreme retard, but the way it is pulling it at higher RPM under no load/boost makes me think that this is false knock. I see no physical signs of knock, and don't have any audible knock. I've attached a spark retard snapshot along with the final spark advance table to go with it. I've read of folks running more timing at the same boost levels, but then again I've read of plenty of folks blowing head gaskets too. I'm running on 93 octane pump gas. This is a stock n42/n42

For closure, they are the same. My sensor was reading 200M Ohms due to corrosion between the sensor body and the nut.

Is the coolant temp sensor for the gauge on an l28 compatible with the 240z gauge? My temp gauge no longer shows anything after attaching it to the L28 sensor in the thermostat housing.

Looks like the motor is okay after all, 5 of my coils were on their way out and causing some misfires especially in boost. This must have been washing the cylinder and increasing blowby. A set of 6 coils for $60 and things are looking great. Now my VE tables need readjusting, but then dyno.

Got this back together again. Lash checked and adjusted this time, lesson learned. Still smokes in boost, so looks like this motor's rings are just not up to the task of holding much boost, odd because it makes good compression across the board. At least the oil leaks are gone. Thinking I should sell this motor and find a lower mileage one, this one would be great NA.

Well I pulled the head, fixed the gaskets, ported it a little and thought I may as well slap some new valves in because there was a couple suspicious looking ones. Got it all back together and fired up drove for a minute and had low power and some clacking. Looks like those new valves either had some inconsistencies in stem length, or the lash pads were wore into the old ones, I found three lashpads popped off when I pulled the valve cover, 1 rocker arm sideways, and one valve lock popped out from that sideways rocker arm. I didn't think that a new set of valves would cause so much problems, but guess my luck sucks. I noticed quite a bit of play in other lashpads too. I should pull the head again, but mannnnn I dont want too. That sideways rocker has me scared.

Anyone know if some off the shelf beehive springs that's will work? I tried finding one with what spring parameters I could piece together, and this one seems like it will: https://briantooleyracing.com/btr-ford-2v-modular-spring-set-550-lift-sp005-16.html The retainer is another story.

Seems fine, its the right size you need right? ENGINE PISTON KIT -- .030 OF AN INCH; COMPRESSION RATIO: 7.4:1 86.1MM Cast pistons should be cheap.

Yep I got smoke on cold starts, and the car is hard to start after sitting. Also seen oil on spark plug threads. I had gotten a felpro gasket set for the timing chain job I did, so may as well pull the head and replace all those seals. It will at the very least stop the oil from getting all over the engine bay and onto my header.

I just tried driving around with the block breather hose disconnected, which would be analogous of the dual vents/catch cans. Still have the leak showing up and only under boost. I'm thinking this is bad valve stem seals, I can smell the oil start to leak and burn as soon as the boost starts kicking in good. I also had the breather hose positioned where I could see it while driving, and didn't notice any crazy amount of mist or smoke. However, after doing some boosted runs I see some white smoke in the valve cover area, and it smells like burning oil.

Probably also important, the engine is a L28, and the PCV valve is the factory one (as far as I know). I just read there is supposedly a difference in the turbo and non-turbo PCV valve. Is that true?

I'm experiencing some high crankcase pressure when in boost, to the point where I have oil coming from the dipstick (seal on that is worn out so I can maybe fix that) and also also shooting like a jet out of the timing cover to cylinder head junction. The timing chain to cylinder head junction is due to the head gasket having torn there. Now I'm not 100% as I haven't been able to look at the leak under boost, but the aftermath is oil getting all the way to the firewall and shock towers with oil puddles at that gasket junction, so I'm suspecting there is some high pressure involved. My current PCV is the factory block tube to manifold, PCV valve seems to work fine from the me blowing in it test, and then a valve cover breather. I see people recommending instead of the breather going to the air filter, but I just have a cone filter directly on the turbo, and not sure how I would achieve that. Is there any other advice how to remedy this? I really really don't want to pull the head to replace that gasket, and it does not leak at all while not under boost (plus this would just make the next weakest link leak. I'm surprised that the pressure isn't relieved by the valve cover breather honestly. Compression is showing pretty good 165 on 5 cylinders 175 on another, but no idea on what the mileage on this motor is.