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stupid_fast

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About stupid_fast

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    North SF bay area, California
  1. 82 L28ET lean out top end issue

    Sorry I hadn't checked this thread in a while. @mods, Necro post reason: found the real solution. Turns out I was troubleshooting multiple issues with similar effects. The issue I corrected in 2015 was a bad negative battery terminal, the bolt was tight but it was loose I could wiggle it around. I've been rebuilding the drive train on my car over the past year, just got it running and the same issue came back. I put on a fuel injection tester & monitored the fuel pressure while driving, it was dipping to around 20psi when the issue occurred. The cause turned out to be a clogged filter screen at the fuel pump!! I feel a bit silly after all that diagnostic work to find such a simple solution, but at least I verified the rest of my setup and learned something. The motor is running very nicely now, after manually re-calibrating the AFM for proper fuel flow.
  2. 5spd bellhousing 77-83

    I need it as soon as possible I'm trying to get my car done within the month. I'd rather not ship a whole gearbox, especially a early wide ratio one since I only need the bell housing. If the price is right and you have a reasonable shipping option I'd consider it.
  3. 5spd bellhousing 77-83

    Troy says 77-83. The reverse location is correct on these years, more modification is required for the older ones which I'm trying to avoid.
  4. 5spd bellhousing 77-83

    Hello, I am in search of a 77-83 5 speed L series transmission bell housing. Anyone have one for sale? Or a blown gearbox would be fine too. I'm located in north east SF bay / near sac delta area.
  5. simplicity and reliability, Grip vs Drift

    A lot of things have happened since my last post, but not much relating to the car. I did another Thunderhill West track day with grip and also some drift, finally killed off my 16" drift spares. The car was still having cooling problems, and with various things needing repairs I decided to tear it down and fix the final details before Winter Jam at Sonoma raceway on Dec 19th&20th. The Roll cage was starting to have rust issues, and I needed to get the seat down lower and further back if possible. I'm 6'3", the little ZX is a tight fit! So I did some cutting, removing the stock seat braces and welding up the holes in the floor pans. Also notched the subframe mount behind the seat and welded some bracing back. Not an issue since the main hoop supports this area now. Since I sold the 350z seats, I also installed a S14 passenger seat. The frame rails also were super torn up and deformed from the car being low and driven hard, they were collapsing and getting close to losing support for the fuel/brake lines so something had to be done. I replaced most of the passenger side rail, and welded up the holes in the driver side rail as it was still in reasonable shape. Excuse the ugly welds... At least they have good penetration. After, I sealed everything in with eastwood rust encapsulator and rattle canned it black. During this time, I also replaced urethane bushings for the LCA and steering rack as well as new ball joints. After this, all my bushings are urethane with an exception of the new OE differential bushing. Checking rack steering geometry... Over centering at full lock means I'm going to have to modify my crossmember eventually. Not a lot of angle, but enough. I also have been collecting some extra parts. With my cooling issue persisting, I decided to rebuild a spare head with a regrind cam and rebello valve springs. Nearly 300,000 mile stock block will need to be redone soon. Deleted the pop off valve. And we're done! Or are we? I took the car to tech at cortex and passed all except I had a scratched radiator hose and my brake fluid was low. After going to replace the lower radiator hose, I found a leak in my brake master cylinder! Replaced it with a Z32 unit yesterday and the brakes are working much better. He also mentioned I could use some zip ties to tuck all the loose junk in the engine bay... The simple things you don't think of when you're focused on big stuff. Oh, and my friend moved his 240z project in to get it done by spring. Hopefully there will be some good footage from Winter Jam this year!! Edit, Well my oil in the coolant issue turned into water in the sump the morning I was supposed to go to the track. Turns out its not the head or head gasket seal that's the issue, as I've already replaced all the front cover seals last year it must be a cracked block, as its the only thing left. Now I'm just saving to rebuild my spare block.
  6. '83 ZXT Mysterious (Fuel?) Issue

    pull the fuel pump and check the mesh filter on the inlet side. If the car was sitting for any amount of time it could be clogged. Your pressures are normal for idle and free revving. pressure should instantly shoot up to 55+ if you pinch the return line. If your connectors are loose I say go buy the full connector kit from fricfrac and replace everything on the harness !!!
  7. '83 ZXT Mysterious (Fuel?) Issue

    This sounds like what my ZX did when I first turbo swapped it. Mine would build boost, then pop out the intake / pov loudly and lose power... ran ok at low throttle. Ended up being bad connections on the harness & ECU connectors, as well as loose terminals. But in the process of troubleshooting I pretty much replaced and went over everything ... I can't remember what exactly fixed the issue. Download the FSM from xenons130 and go through all the ef/ec tests. Ignore the AFM one however, every one will give you a different resistance number. Inspect your EFI connectors while you do this, make sure there is no corrosion. Check the ECU connectors and maybe retention the pins. Check your battery connections make sure everything is tight. Go through standard tests, check timing, compression, vacuum leaks. make sure your injectors are firing well, it may be worth it to soak them in techron and test them externally. If you think its your fuel pump- is the fuel filter new? Replace it! After that your issues should be minor and the car should drive well. Every S130 turbo ECCS I've seen runs RICH 10:1 at WOT unless the AFM is corrected. These cars run very rich from the factory. A wide band or dyno is needed to set up the AFM properly. Where are you located in the bay area?? I'm in Antioch/brentwood. There's a couple other hybridz members in the area as well who are knowledgeable with the nissan ECCS systems.
  8. simplicity and reliability, Grip vs Drift

    The rear spacers were R31 parts from Motorsport Design Services in Australia. R31's have very similar suspension to S130 / Z31. http://www.motorsportdesignservices.com/
  9. simplicity and reliability, Grip vs Drift

    Installed a new cat to pass smog, MSD box, and a few tweaks to the fan setup... Otherwise car is pretty much just sitting now. Hope to do 3 or 4 track events and that's it for this year.
  10. exhaust pipe size and cat

    Figured it out, talked to a smog tech who's into datsuns... The catalytic converter just has to have a matching california EO number, this is the only thing the smog tech is required to put into the computer or check through their processes. Lots of model catalytic converters have the same part number. I put a certain 3" cat on with the correct EO number and passed inspection no problem. A BAR ref might catch this, however. A normal smog tech if he dies it by the book and knows his pre-96 laws will pass it. Most techs in my area took one look at the L28ET and say 'you need a BAR label' ... Also, the downpipe and section up to the catalytic converter must remain stock as well.
  11. 82 L28ET lean out top end issue

    It was a bad ground. Verifying the fix. /thread
  12. 82 L28ET lean out top end issue

    They're stock 280cc factory reman flow matched injectors. I'll check the wiring
  13. 82 L28ET lean out top end issue

    ? edit, its also running lean when cold. Could be significant, or could be a different issue. like 17:1 idle on cold start. Fires up no problem though.
  14. 82 L28ET lean out top end issue

    I don't see how its making an assumption when I did all the work? I checked the running voltage I don't understand what else could go wrong here?
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