Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


stupid_fast last won the day on February 28 2020

stupid_fast had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

1 Follower

About stupid_fast

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    North SF bay area, California

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. J-pipe is fine its just non-intercooled so its more prone to detonation due to the higher intake temps. You should be able to run quite a bit of power as long as the timing is conservative and you keep it a bit rich. The NA ECU has no ignition control, the advance curve is mechanical like a carbureted car. I'm pretty sure there have been NA-T guys on hybridz who have run a stock dizzy without problems, you should be able to find some old topics about it. For the knock sensing its pretty simple, you can even use a mechanics stethoscope with a pipe bolted to the block, or an electric
  2. For drivability you really want good amount of advance in the low load areas. I never really understood why anyone would remove vacuum advance, since with the correct weights setup it runs the same at the top end anyway. The stock map has a lot of advance. remember however it had 7.4:1 compression, motors with flat tops and NA motors will take a lot less ignition timing reliably especially with the stock j-pipe. I just built some knock ears and I'm still getting light knock at around 5200rpm with only 24 degrees timing at a 12:1 AFR on the j-pipe and stock wastegate. My motor is ar
  3. I think the suspension is just too stiff, I'm going to get softer springs first then see from there. There's practically zero body roll in corners and not much compliance over curbs. Also running the big MSA sway bar kit front and rear, the rear bar might be too stiff. Unfortunately I threw away my stock sway bars. The tires are 225 front and a 245 rear, they've got most of their tread and are about 2 years old but garage kept. The rears are also a few months newer than the front tires. If they were shot I would expect another few seconds on the lap time. Grip level is about ri
  4. I did lots of things to the car this year, but didn't feel it was necessary to update here until I had some results. The main outstanding issue with the car after Thunderhill was the cooling system. Got a TIG welder earlier this year in February and learned how to booger weld aluminum enough to start on cooling modifications. I started with building an intercooler setup. Since I'm staying with stock EFI, I wanted to add a recirculating BPV so that required the intake boot to be replaced. The factory intake box does not fit with the intercoo
  5. @AlShelby I will not be parting out the T5, but the points dizzy is available. @Villeman Sorry I gave away my extra thermostat housings already, I can't find any more.
  6. Hey guys, sorry I haven't been on here in a while. @chopkins12 I have the clutch still, your profile says you're in NY.. its going to be unreasonably expensive to ship it. I don't have any spare turbo parts other than what's listed. @McKleenZ message me if you're still interested in dropping by. @ISPKI Shipping is very expensive for any bulky parts, you're probably better off getting it local but I can get a quote if you're determined.
  7. @260det, thanks for that. I've got a few ideas going right now, going to do some prototyping and hopefully make some improvements. A few updates from recent activity. Earlier last year when I rebuilt the gearbox I replaced the factory transmission mount isolator with the 240sx unit. The only modification required was drilling two holes in the crossmember. This Megan racing mount came on one of the 240sx boxes I got, and is a bit more robust than a ZX unit. The engine mounts tore again, so I ordered some OEM Nissan mounts from japan. The OEM mounts immediately delamina
  8. 260DET, thanks for the comment. I'm still running a locked center, and really can't justify the expense to upgrading to an LSD for this car since I'm not doing any level of competition. A huge contributor to the high speed instability is the alignment settings, my last alignment was optimized for drifting and was almost ideal for that purpose. An LSD has been on the list for a long time, but with how beat up this chassis has gotten over the years I'm starting to only do the maintenance required to get as much seat time as possible rather than upgrades. I'd like to also start messing
  9. I lost a bunch of pictures from recent work when my phone died, but here's a brief update. When I slapped in my cam in a few months ago before the Buttonwillow event I also installed a new Powerbond crank damper PN# PB1212N. Last weekend I went to check the timing after my dizzy cap screw backed out and couldn't find the crank mark. Pulled everything apart and re-checked the balancer against a degree wheel, the outer ring has rotated by about 35 degrees. I bought the new part because I was afraid of the 40 year old factory unit slipping! During disassembly I found that my new aft
  10. Hey there, I already got some spares to test from another Hybridz member and confirmed mine were still OK. Thanks though!
  11. Having trouble uploading the video, but if it worked here's a lap from my recent visit to buttonwillow. Had some running issues, but overall felt great to get out on track. edit; re uploaded w/ youtube. Fasted lap was 2:21.374. https://youtu.be/xv4rmxQ1vH8
  12. After taking a closer look at the part, it seems i made a mistake with the mustache bar. Its in fact an R180 mustache bar. Sorry about that!
  13. Parts located in Sacramento Delta area, California a few miles off hwy 12. Reasonable offers accepted. I no longer have the desire to horde z parts due to other goals, I would prefer these parts be used again by those who need them and not get scrapped. There are also random ZX parts I still need to sort through, all the chassis controller boxes for an 83 such as the dash diagnostic control unit and cruise control unit. L28e dish pistons with rods $40 L series 6 cylinder points distributor $20 L28 F54, bored out too far, needs to be sleeved. have
  14. Other than a bit of a mishap installing the rear main seal, Gollum's new loaner motor ready to go. I dropped it off earlier today. Came out of a 240z in running condition that my buddies doing a v8 swap on. Had a pair of SU's and a points dizzy on it! To my surprise it was a P90/F54. Put front & rear seals and replaced the valve stem seals, installed an A cam and a newer OSK timing sprocket from my engine while I was at it. Looks like a clean original turbo motor, but there is evidence the timing chain has been changed at some point. Should be a good runner for Gollum
  15. I'm usually driving to the track in my blue Geo Metro. I'll keep an eye out for your car as well! Won't be out at Sonoma for a while unfortunately.
  • Create New...