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stupid_fast last won the day on February 28

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  1. @AlShelby I will not be parting out the T5, but the points dizzy is available. @Villeman Sorry I gave away my extra thermostat housings already, I can't find any more.
  2. Hey guys, sorry I haven't been on here in a while. @chopkins12 I have the clutch still, your profile says you're in NY.. its going to be unreasonably expensive to ship it. I don't have any spare turbo parts other than what's listed. @McKleenZ message me if you're still interested in dropping by. @ISPKI Shipping is very expensive for any bulky parts, you're probably better off getting it local but I can get a quote if you're determined.
  3. @260det, thanks for that. I've got a few ideas going right now, going to do some prototyping and hopefully make some improvements. A few updates from recent activity. Earlier last year when I rebuilt the gearbox I replaced the factory transmission mount isolator with the 240sx unit. The only modification required was drilling two holes in the crossmember. This Megan racing mount came on one of the 240sx boxes I got, and is a bit more robust than a ZX unit. The engine mounts tore again, so I ordered some OEM Nissan mounts from japan. The OEM mounts immediately delaminated on installation, so I ordered up some silver project mounts and they work just fine on the stock ZX. They are a bit stiff at idle with the cam, but while driving I can't tell the difference. Took the opportunity while everything was apart to finally fit on my #5 bypass, should help flow at the back of the head at least a little bit. AN to BSP fitting was easy enough to source. The throttle body heater cap was also leaking, so it was a good time to re-seal that. The front sway bar was also binding due to some janky drifting stuff I did to get more clearance for the brake calipers at full lock. Steering is much more complaint now, as it should be. Went to Thunderhill East this weekend and got on track for my first lap, engine was misfiring and I get black flagged for oil smoke in only a few laps. The driveshaft munched up the transmission output shaft seal, and it sprayed fluid all over the exhaust causing the smoke. I suspect it was due to the old failed engine mounts, but I'll find out for sure if it fails again. The parts shop in town had the required seal, I also got a coil and spark plugs to combat the misfire. I missed a few sessions, but I got it back on track with no leaks and running better than it has in a while. Set a 2:16.030, at least at a similar pace as the rest of the run group. The water temps get too hot after just 4 laps flat out, as mentioned previously in the thread I'll have to start doing something about this. A while ago I had adjusted the water temp enrichment table in the ECU to go very rich when the CHTS detects 240 degrees, and it worked great. At just about 230 on the gauge and it goes rich so I'm not tempted to keep pushing it.
  4. 260DET, thanks for the comment. I'm still running a locked center, and really can't justify the expense to upgrading to an LSD for this car since I'm not doing any level of competition. A huge contributor to the high speed instability is the alignment settings, my last alignment was optimized for drifting and was almost ideal for that purpose. An LSD has been on the list for a long time, but with how beat up this chassis has gotten over the years I'm starting to only do the maintenance required to get as much seat time as possible rather than upgrades. I'd like to also start messing with some front air dam and basic budget aero as experience to apply to my lemons team car. Nothing crazy like a big wing, probably just front air dam, under body panels, and a simple diffuser to keep the end back down. Cooling is still an issue, typically Its creeping up to 220* water temps after a hot lap session. I'm currently working on a few more maintenance bits and optimizations, going to be on thunderhill 3 mile in a couple weeks with SpeedSF.
  5. I lost a bunch of pictures from recent work when my phone died, but here's a brief update. When I slapped in my cam in a few months ago before the Buttonwillow event I also installed a new Powerbond crank damper PN# PB1212N. Last weekend I went to check the timing after my dizzy cap screw backed out and couldn't find the crank mark. Pulled everything apart and re-checked the balancer against a degree wheel, the outer ring has rotated by about 35 degrees. I bought the new part because I was afraid of the 40 year old factory unit slipping! During disassembly I found that my new aftermarket engine mounts are also starting to fail again. Going to just order up some OEM nissan units, the original factory parts never had issues. Annoying to still struggle with reliability at this point, but at least there's less things to fix at this point. After ignition issues at Buttonwillow I realized I simply hadn't changed my dizzy cap & rotor for several years! Finally took the time to finally install these Accel 8.8 plug wires that have been sitting on the shelf for over a year. Really can't tell if they've helped anything, but they look good. As it sits today, waiting for the decision on what crank balancer to go with. From Buttonwillow a few months ago.
  6. Hey there, I already got some spares to test from another Hybridz member and confirmed mine were still OK. Thanks though!
  7. Having trouble uploading the video, but if it worked here's a lap from my recent visit to buttonwillow. Had some running issues, but overall felt great to get out on track. edit; re uploaded w/ youtube. https://youtu.be/xv4rmxQ1vH8
  8. After taking a closer look at the part, it seems i made a mistake with the mustache bar. Its in fact an R180 mustache bar. Sorry about that!
  9. Parts located in Sacramento Delta area, California. Reasonable offers accepted. I no longer have the desire to horde z parts due to other goals, I would prefer these parts be used again by those who need them and not get scrapped. There are also random ZX parts I still need to sort through, all the chassis controller boxes for an 83 such as the dash diagnostic control unit and cruise control unit. complete L24 1973? from running car. $400 L28e dish pistons with rods $40 L series 6 cylinder points distributor $20 L28 F54, bored out too far, needs to be sleeved. have sonic test numbers. $80 obo L28 crank $180 280zx turbo oil cooler core $40 L series 'white bunny' clutch setup, 240mm flywheel. $50 280ZX turbo R200 long nose 3.54 with welded center $100 good shape 1982 turbo ZX T5 box, needs reassembly and some parts, message for details. MANIFOLDS: 2x L28e EFI intake manifolds $125 each 2x L28e EFI exhaust manifolds $75 each 1x L28 smog exhaust manifold welded up $75 L28(?) SU carburetors with manifold $150 L16 exhaust manifold 1972(?) $50 Misc; s30 / R180 mustache bar with poly bushings $20 240z window regulator possibly incomplete $20 240z windshield wipers $20 240z gas tank filler pipe $30 280zx t-tops in fair condition $100 2x SR20 bellhousings for FS5W71C $100 each WHEELS PAIR of 15x7 +22 Road line 4x114.3 no tires $200 PAIR of 16x8 +20 XXR 4x114.3/4x100 with new Archilles ATR 2 225/50r16 tires $250 PAIR of WORK meister 15x8 0 4x114.3 with new TOYO R1R 225/50zr15 $800
  10. Other than a bit of a mishap installing the rear main seal, Gollum's new loaner motor ready to go. I dropped it off earlier today. Came out of a 240z in running condition that my buddies doing a v8 swap on. Had a pair of SU's and a points dizzy on it! To my surprise it was a P90/F54. Put front & rear seals and replaced the valve stem seals, installed an A cam and a newer OSK timing sprocket from my engine while I was at it. Looks like a clean original turbo motor, but there is evidence the timing chain has been changed at some point. Should be a good runner for Gollum to get some seat time while he collects parts for his swap.
  11. I'm usually driving to the track in my blue Geo Metro. I'll keep an eye out for your car as well! Won't be out at Sonoma for a while unfortunately.
  12. Leon, My first time in lemons was at the last Sonoma event in the rain, the E36 was fantastic to drive! Its a monster in the wet. I'm in the unicorns aint U's car #201. It'll be a couple months before I'm ready to go to the track with the z, after moving and all. Also waiting on funds for a new wheel & tire setup. I'll definitely let you know, it should be either sonoma or thunderhill. Probably will be with SpeedSF to start out as I've already gone to several of their events before. I'd be interested in some other track events as well, as long as they aren't super novice oriented. Open passing and plenty of run time makes me happy.
  13. Thanks Rossman, drifting is fun but the scene here is annoying me. There are a few Z's drifting out here as well, but they're not great cars for it. Here's a bit more details on the gearbox I blew up. The annoying part of all this is that I replaced the T5 since it was known to strip out gears! The S13 box was rebuilt before I installed it in 2016. It received fresh bearings, synchros and clearances checked to FSM spec. I also blocked off the oil passages in the sandwich plate (jb weld held fine for this) , and relocated the rear bearing oil scraper to 5th instead of on 1st to reduce oil transfer to the back of the box. Note, there were also two main shafts available. The top one has a larger diameter, and longer splines on the output shaft. I threw away the larger one, the output splines were twisted so I decided it was unsafe to use. Another topic from mid 2017, The turbo CV ends I had were worn out and making very loud horrible noises. They never completely failed, but the noise was unbearable for driving the car any significant distance. As the axles were over $700 each from Nissan, and rare to find used I needed to find a better solution. These were toast! My other pair were just as loud, even though they still had plenty of grease in them. So what's the solution? Most nissan CV axles used the same spline through the 80s and 90s. The 300zx CV joints aren't an option anymore, as they're either expensive from nissan or not available in the aftermarket. I looked at the Infiniti M30 based on a single comment I found here on hybridz. It has an R200 long nose with the same differential spline, and suspension similar in design to the z31. Its also a newer model, and it only came with an NA VG30e and automatic transmissions. Junk yard axles are likely to be in good condition. The stub axles are required to run M30 outer CV joints. They're similar to Z31, use bigger bearings and significantly larger spline. M30 on left, S130 on right. The M30 stubs kick out the track an extra 5mm, and the brake caliper requires a spacer to function properly. The next issue to deal with is the axle lengths, the M30, Z31, and pretty much all newer nissan axles are too long. The two shorter axles are S130, the longer ones are M30. The S130 turbo axle shafts are pretty much identical including the spline. The only difference is that the tripod bearings are pressed onto the s130 axles, vs c-clip fit for the M30. Another benefit, the CV boots are now readily available for $15 aftermarket or $40 from Nissan. The end caps are a pain to get off and on the first time, slap them against the tripod bearing a few times they'll pop off. They're press fit need to be clamped and sealed when replaced. I used sleeve retainer 640. haven't had an issue yet. The M30 factory axle bolts come with some sort of thread locker, so I always put more on when I replace them. $75 replacements are much better than paying over $1500 for a custom axle solution. S13 inner tripod CV joints are functionally identical to M30 outer CV joints. New aftermarket S13 inners are available for $40/each from febest. I've found that usually the outer CV joint wears out before the inner. Since I stripped out my gearbox before having an issue with one of these axles, I'd say they're strong enough for most use cases. The M30 long nose 3.91 also fits with minimal modification, just need to swap over the input flange & grind a bit off the casing.
  14. Leon, Thanks! Its nice to know someone finds my ramblings entertaining. I'll do my best to keep this updated as things progress with the car. Although I have all the parts, I'm taking my time rebuilding the gearbox for now as there's several tech discussions I need to go back and read. On another topic, i just ran another lemons race in my friends E36 on the Thunderhill 5 mile. I really want to get my z on that track and make it set some respectable lap times.
  15. The steering rack issue ended up just being a small installation oversight due to the way I put the center seal in, I had pushed it over the gear and it cut the seal. I assembled the rack from the other side of the main shaft and was able to get everything to seal up no problem. After a proper alignment on a nice dug-in rack and a new set of tires, I was ready to head to my next event at jackson county sports park in Medford Oregon. Dropped the cars off at the track, and went back to town to spend the night. We arrived at the track in the morning, attended the drivers meeting and I ended up being the first one on track, drove for a few laps and started getting comfortable and BAM! Stripped out 3rd gear on the initiation into the first corner. This is was a late KA / SR larger gearset. (there are two gearsets for the KA with the same ratios) I pulled the gearbox at the track, cleaned up the bits and resealed it and dropped it back in to drive home. A waste of a track day, but at least I got home without a tow. Luckily I have a spare gear set on the shelf, so all will be fixed soon. The blown gearbox being pulled apart. Here's my spare big gearset vs another early KA box I got. The big gearset is about 2mm bigger on each gear. The state of my new garage is bad as well, so lots of things need to be addressed before this thing will be back out.
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