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walkerbk

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About walkerbk

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    Stephenville, TX

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  1. Sorry. It's been a while. I do not have mine notched, I check them for torque every 10k miles or so and no problems. I also have poly bushing if that changes anything.
  2. I have 5/8" bolts in mine and have been drag racing it. No problems. I have also pulled them and checked after about 5k miles and they had no marks.
  3. Drag racing suspension

    Well I definitely plan on a dedicated set of drag slicks but I have to increase funds first. I have the set of street slicks, daily tires, and it is going to take some talking to the wife to get a 3rd set of tires. I don't have a goal for the car. Built it to be reliable and I love going fast. Obx lsd is in the future with a set of wolf creek racing axles and coil overs. Should be about 2k next time I have the money. I am also currently seperated from my car. I had to move up north for a while and couldn't drive the Z up and the truck. I should have her back around Christmas
  4. Drag racing suspension

    I have everything you just mentioned except the welded diff and the roll bar. I am running a street slick ment more for autocross so I know I am losing traction with them, but I was running the same times with my touring tires. I know I am putting down around 350-400. Definitely wish I had them slicks like that though.
  5. Drag racing suspension

    Check out this page, toward the bottom. They call it a subframe connector but it looks like it would do the same thing as a torque arm, lift weight off the nose and apply it to the rear for better traction. https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-2004-2007-gen-i/1549239-tuning-irs-drag-racing.html Also, I attached two pics of the same thing where they attach the subframe to the rear suspension. Don't know how much upward torque is applied though, I think this design more helps with wheel hop.
  6. LS376/480 4L70E HELP!!!

    Btw, the best way to do it, is to get the engine and suspension set up, get the car running, take it all back apart and then do the body and interior. That's my opinion anyway.
  7. LS376/480 4L70E HELP!!!

    -Kits: i did thd CX racing headers and engine mounts but I used the 4l60e transmission so the headers had to be modified and every welder that looked at it said it couldn't be done... so I bought my own, figured out how to weld SS and did my own turned out fantastic. I will later add duel cutouts before the Y pipe. If I had it to do over I would have gone JCI all the way. I would have also turboed but that's me. -Suspesnion: left mine mostly stock but I'm getting back into that now. I did the poly bushings and am going to do 4 corner coilovers, nothing special. This is my toy that likes to make the mustang and camaro guys wonder why they just spent 40k on a car when they just got beat by a car that cost 10k to build. Brakes: Silvermine for the 240 caliper and 300zx roter. Remove the stock prop valve (replace with a union) and you will be around 70/30 braking. Paint at 2k: get it running. Dynomat: get it running. 225 tires: same I got... can still spin them on a dry road while going 40. Driveline: jci makes a great steel shaft. No need for aluminum since it is so short the weight savings is going to be minimal. I think mine is only 2.5ish feet, maybe 7lbs. CAI: focus on getting it running. Radiator: stock 3 row and then go get a random hose from autozone that fits (go behind the counter and pick). Fuel cell: I swapped over a camaro tank and wish I had left the stock one with the walbro fuel pump. Quote Quote this
  8. Drag racing suspension

    So miatas use a open style torque tube that runs from the differential to the transmission. It is the same setup as the corvette torque tube except that it is only closed on 3 sides to make it easier to maintain. And it doesn't need as much since there isn't the torque of a v8 in there stock. From my understanding, the key to a hard launch is to be able to transfer vehicle weight to the rear wheels as fast as possible. 4 link push and pull the frame up applying all weight from torque to the wheels. The torque arm is mounted to the front of the differential and as the nose of the diff rotates up it pushes the front of the car up applying the weight to the rear. My thought is that even though it is an irs, the diff still acts the same. Under hard acceleration, the nose of the differential launches upward. This is the reason for the strap over the diff and the reason the rubber mount under the differential separates. That being said, if I was 100% sure this would work, I wouldn't be asking here. My design thought is to remove all the mounting on the front and then have 4 pieces of angle iron bolted to the nose going to a torque arm on both sides of the drive shaft. This will also make it easy to make a drive shaft cage.
  9. Texans, help me out.

    Last time the guy poped the hood and said "is that stock?". They do not care in Texas (this was in bell county as well).
  10. Drag racing suspension

    Btw, I have upgraded to poly bushings, springs and struts and do use the car for autocross as well.
  11. So I have finished my ls1 4l65e swap and love it. Anything over 3k rpm gets a little scary. Went to the strip to show up all the mustangs and running street tires got nowhere... literally spun tires for the first 60ft and then just rolled through the finish. After buying a set of street slicks I went back. Still could not launch as hard as I wanted to but I was running low 12s. My thought is coil overs, bigger sway bar, lsd differential and true slicks. Well I am getting ready to start my next build (63 c10) and am researching what I am doing for suspension and have decided to keep the solid axle and add a torque arm. After researching torque arms I thought why not put one on the datsun? Is there a large difference since it is a irs? My thought is the torque is still going through the nose of the diff (thus the clunk that I had to fix). My thought is remove the extra mount over the diff that I added and remove the stock nose mount and replace it with a bar that goes up to my transmission mount. This would make it to where the diff is mounted on the rear and then to the front of the car right under the driver seat.
  12. You make a good point. I still think it is a viable option, just not for what I need. I guess I'm going to chop everything up and go with coil overs.
  13. That is why I was looking at these springs. The stock ones are right around 100lbs/in and with these being 150lbs/in I figure that should give the soft side about a stock feeling and then the firm side enough to reduce roll when cornering.
  14. So to start off, I am cheap. I hate over paying on car parts just because my car is older than most of the peoplease that work in parts stores. Some times I can get away with it, other times I just flip open the wallet and hope the wife doesn't knowtice. I currently have chevy chevelle springs (moog 6556) on my ls1 280z 2+2 and although they ride great in the front with the extra weight, they are way to stiff in the rear at around 197 lbs. So I have been planning on swapping to coil overs for the ability to change springs and I came across a website that has specs for moog springs http://classiccarsprings.com/coil-spring-specifications.html Looking through this list, cc257 is a progressive spring that is 149lbs at 15.5 in height so it is only slightly stiffer than the stock springs and very close to the exact hight. What do you guys think? Btw, these springs are for a 90-97 honda accord I believe
  15. Sound/Heat Insulation

    Get this stuff from home depot. They only sell it online and it is the same as the automotive material http://m.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouch-48-in-x-6-ft-Radiant-Barrier-30000-11406/100656748?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1-2-_-NA-_-100656748-_-N
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