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rustler753

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About rustler753

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  • Location
    Frederick, CO
  1. Exhaust size for a 3.2L Stroker L28

    I was mostly thinking about the 3 vs 2.5 for the power/torque argument that people are saying the 3" is too big.
  2. I have a dilemma and I am pulling my hair out over a 3" vs 2.5" exhaust for my 260z. I have a N/A L28 3.2L stroker, 11:1 compression, headwork and port matching, an MSA 3-2 header, weber 45s. I use the car on the track and street. This motor is still being broken in so I don't know what it will make yet on the dyno. I had a 3" nice exhaust made up and is currently on the car, but it is straight piped and insanely loud. I have two paths I can take; pick up a magnaflow 14867 (or maybe an oval type instead?) muffler and 18" vibrant 4" body resonator for the 3" system and keep it, or scrap it and have a 2.5" system made. The 3" vs 2.5" debate is mostly out of fear I went too large on the exhaust. I want to make sure I get it right. Can anyone help me put my mind to rest so I can stop obsessively searching online through countless forums?
  3. My 74 260z Restoration

    Hey a fellow 260z owner in colorado! I'm in Frederick. Curious, do you know if that motor is a L28 or the stock L26? I may be interested in it if you feel like parting ways with it. Any idea what you want for it? I can even get it locally with my own trailer
  4. Single Row Crankshaft Pulley for L-Series

    Both are not being produced and back ordered till an undetermined date. Performance Products (the mfg. of the pulleys) have an unknown backorder for production so not an option.
  5. Single Row Crankshaft Pulley for L-Series

    Do you have any pics of them? Interested of course, I'd like to see the condition they are in! Thank you for letting me know.
  6. Title says it all. Tried looking for a Professional Products 80055 pulley but there is a nationwide inventory shortage. Let me know if you have anything!
  7. 280zx distributor on a 74' 260z

    So I may have narrowed it down. I got fed up and swapped in the 260z dizzy, put back in the ballast resistor and didnt change the coil. Bam it starts. The coil has power, so the problem is the 280zx distributor or the e12-80 igniter itself.
  8. 280zx distributor on a 74' 260z

    I have the pertronixs flamethrower too but both didnt work, I did pull out the transistor ignition module out. That post is also what I followed in detail, but I can't seem to get it to turn
  9. 280zx distributor on a 74' 260z

    Trying to figure out why it wont start. I can't get spark and just going through the routine.
  10. 280zx distributor on a 74' 260z

    Any way to check voltage coming out of coil with a spark plug? Like plug a spark plug into the coil wire and hold it near ground to see if the coil is powered just to isolate the distributor being the issue? I've never tested the coil in car with spark leaving the coil.
  11. 280zx distributor on a 74' 260z

    The blue wire is from the tach which has been in several examples as the trigger that lands on the (-) side of the coil for this conversion. I did these measurements with all the wires disconnected in the 2nd attachment and used the chassis for ground reference. Should the (-) and (+) on the coil both have 12V reference to ground when everything is attached when the key on and engine off? I also have a pertronix 1.5ohm flamethrower coil but I had the same results when I tried that coil...
  12. So it has been discussed before, but in my searches I couldn't find a solution to my particular wiring problem. Here is what is going on. Busted out the multimeter and here are my observations. See attached for the wires I'm working and my wiring setup. Black/White: 12V ignition on, voltage drops during cranking. Black/Blue: No voltage ignition on, 12V during cranking. Black/Green: No voltage on, No voltage crank. Blue: No voltage on, No Voltage crank. My understanding is that 12V should be oscillating on the (+) and (-) on the coil, but as my wife cranked the car, I had the mutlimeter on the +/- and only saw 12V constant, I didn't see it drop out. I'm not sure what to test next, it seems pretty clear the coil isn't getting power but I wired it exactly like how the Atlanta Z car club wrote. Anyone have recommendations on how to wire this thing up? (I have removed the transistor module) This is how it used to be wired up with the old ballast resistor/dizzy (see 3rd attachment), my ballast resistor was a 3 pole unit: black/white on resistor +, black/blue on resistor center, and black/green on resistor -. The white/black paired with the black/green went to coil - and the capacitor as well. The tach was on coil (+).
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