rustler753

@zredbaron Sorry to be a bother, but I have been messing with tuning my Z recently and was hoping I could reference some data you have gathered. It's been a few months since I asked so I figured I would check back in and see if you would be willing to divulge what you have learned and data you gathered during your trials with chokes, jetting settings and velocity stack tryouts.

I did a 3" on the recommendation of my engine builder, Jeff Winter but I am running a 3.2L stroker. If you are a 3.0, one would think a 2.5" would be plenty.

Absolutely no worries, I am a patient man. Our motor setups are similar, but I have been finding upper end power a little lacking with my 36mm venturis so its exciting for me to do a comparison between the two. I have been planning for some time for an exhaust/intake update so the more data I have the better. You put it well; there is certainly a lot of coin involved if you are going through all the jet settings so I want to try to get it right. Only major glaring difference I see between your testing environment and mine is elevation as I am at 5,000 ft up so I will definitely keep that in mind when you present your data.

Really looking forward to the data you are willing to share. I am heading towards a new setup with 38mm or 40mm chokes on my weber 45s so I am very curious about all your jet settings. I asked early about a few things like your idle jets but I'd love a bigger picture to see the direction you went with each jetting option we have available.

@zredbaron Love the information and feedback you are providing! Keep it up by all means! If you could answer a few quick questions in regards to some other details of your equipment I would really appreciate it. What diameter runners or brand of headers are you running and I know you mentioned you were running 65F8 idle jets, are you still running those when you were testing out the 38mm venturis?

I was mostly thinking about the 3 vs 2.5 for the power/torque argument that people are saying the 3" is too big.

I have a dilemma and I am pulling my hair out over a 3" vs 2.5" exhaust for my 260z. I have a N/A L28 3.2L stroker, 11:1 compression, headwork and port matching, an MSA 3-2 header, weber 45s. I use the car on the track and street. This motor is still being broken in so I don't know what it will make yet on the dyno. I had a 3" nice exhaust made up and is currently on the car, but it is straight piped and insanely loud. I have two paths I can take; pick up a magnaflow 14867 (or maybe an oval type instead?) muffler and 18" vibrant 4" body resonator for the 3" system and keep it, or scrap it and have a 2.5" system made. The 3" vs 2.5" debate is mostly out of fear I went too large on the exhaust. I want to make sure I get it right. Can anyone help me put my mind to rest so I can stop obsessively searching online through countless forums?

Hey a fellow 260z owner in colorado! I'm in Frederick. Curious, do you know if that motor is a L28 or the stock L26? I may be interested in it if you feel like parting ways with it. Any idea what you want for it? I can even get it locally with my own trailer

Both are not being produced and back ordered till an undetermined date. Performance Products (the mfg. of the pulleys) have an unknown backorder for production so not an option.

Do you have any pics of them? Interested of course, I'd like to see the condition they are in! Thank you for letting me know.

Title says it all. Tried looking for a Professional Products 80055 pulley but there is a nationwide inventory shortage. Let me know if you have anything!

So I may have narrowed it down. I got fed up and swapped in the 260z dizzy, put back in the ballast resistor and didnt change the coil. Bam it starts. The coil has power, so the problem is the 280zx distributor or the e12-80 igniter itself.

I have the pertronixs flamethrower too but both didnt work, I did pull out the transistor ignition module out. That post is also what I followed in detail, but I can't seem to get it to turn

Trying to figure out why it wont start. I can't get spark and just going through the routine.

Any way to check voltage coming out of coil with a spark plug? Like plug a spark plug into the coil wire and hold it near ground to see if the coil is powered just to isolate the distributor being the issue? I've never tested the coil in car with spark leaving the coil.

The blue wire is from the tach which has been in several examples as the trigger that lands on the (-) side of the coil for this conversion. I did these measurements with all the wires disconnected in the 2nd attachment and used the chassis for ground reference. Should the (-) and (+) on the coil both have 12V reference to ground when everything is attached when the key on and engine off? I also have a pertronix 1.5ohm flamethrower coil but I had the same results when I tried that coil...

So it has been discussed before, but in my searches I couldn't find a solution to my particular wiring problem. Here is what is going on. Busted out the multimeter and here are my observations. See attached for the wires I'm working and my wiring setup. Black/White: 12V ignition on, voltage drops during cranking. Black/Blue: No voltage ignition on, 12V during cranking. Black/Green: No voltage on, No voltage crank. Blue: No voltage on, No Voltage crank. My understanding is that 12V should be oscillating on the (+) and (-) on the coil, but as my wife cranked the car, I had the mutlimeter on the +/- and only saw 12V constant, I didn't see it drop out. I'm not sure what to test next, it seems pretty clear the coil isn't getting power but I wired it exactly like how the Atlanta Z car club wrote. Anyone have recommendations on how to wire this thing up? (I have removed the transistor module) This is how it used to be wired up with the old ballast resistor/dizzy (see 3rd attachment), my ballast resistor was a 3 pole unit: black/white on resistor +, black/blue on resistor center, and black/green on resistor -. The white/black paired with the black/green went to coil - and the capacitor as well. The tach was on coil (+).