turbogrill
-
Posts
350 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by turbogrill
-
-
I did microsquirt, it's like $300. Also doing fuel only is also much easier and it's a huge improvement. Controlling ignition requires somekind of coils and trigger, none that you have stock..
-
Nice! Running a very similar setup. Bonk cam with stock N42 intake and MS.
What did you set your timing to? Why so rich?
-
The Mazda/Ford 2.5 is becoming a popular swap into 2006-2016 Miatas, they are light and dirt cheap and most turbo builds are about 300whp - 400whp on junkyard engines. Not sure where the limit is.
The engine bolts up to a NC Miata transmission so no RWD conversion issues. You can also use the miata oilpan if needed. There are aftermarket turbo manifolds both RWD and FWD applications. The Mazdaspeed engines also uses this engine and same manifold. But has a crappy k04 turbo. But it does have stronger internals.
Cheapest engines seems to be from Ford Escape. Maybe a mazdaspeed3 bolts up to the transmission, in that case that might be easiest for your power levels since they are forged.
https://dynotronicstuning.3dcartstores.com/DYNOTRONICS1-GOAL-MK2-TURBO-SYSTEM_p_1322.html
-
Isn't it "easy" to reach 350whp? But once you are getting into 600whp it's very complicated and expensive. Just reading about what JeffP is doing is crazy, custom head gasket and all kinds of things.
if less then 350whp then L28ET. If more than 450whp then swap something in (like an LS).
Focus everything on intercooler, engine mangement, good turbo and piping.
I don't know enough to comment about forged vs non-forged pistons, but I know Datsun Spirit sells any sized pistons you want. (I think it's rebranded wiseco pistons)
-
I would strongly recommend OEM.
After market mounts might have fitment issues, even if you file down the thing sticking out.
I spend maybe 4 hours trying to get my engine/tranny in with after market mounts, took 30 mins with oem mounts.
Just my experience.
-
18 hours ago, wil84911 said:
I would think so but I was trying to avoid not having a Z for who knows how long. But... that might be the last resort.
Did you just buy it? Car looks nice, might be worth something.
-
Can you put the don potter cam into your L26? (if the l28 is unusable).
-
On 3/22/2019 at 11:04 PM, Chris83zxt said:
What's your custom rear brake solution? I'm going to be doing a big brake upgrade for the front soon and haven't found much in the way of solutions for the rear. I don't know if AZC is still doing business--they haven't responded to my email from earlier this week.
Depends on the year. For 79-81 I did this:
-
On 3/6/2019 at 11:57 AM, S30Stig said:
Tell that to the 123ignition distributor sitting next to me and the fuel fittings going out today! There's suddenly a lot going on at once for my Z.
I was trying to measure directly from the cam which is probably why I was getting such strange numbers then. I imagine a proper valve adjustment would be key in measuring real lift since lash has an affect on that measurement as you mentioned.
Also, and you'll have to excuse the ignorance of youth and lesser experience, but because I was originally only trying to find the lift and duration from on the cam I figured TDC was irrelevant to this case; only the starting and ending degrees of the measurement. I wasn't trying to degree the cam itself or change cam timing, just to get a better idea of what cam is in there since that was the original direction I was pointed to in picking a starting venturi set.
Your right TDC shouldn't matter. But it's hard to measure these thing, I am no expert and I have to remeasure several times. It's hard to get accurate numbers with the engine out and a proper timing wheel, 1 angle is really nothing but the lift can differ for just 1 angle. Also your .317 lift should be ~0.470 at the valve. If it's DSI motor I am sure it's good!
-
Regarding measuring the cam, did you measure directly on the cam or on the valve?
0.050" on the cam equals ~0.075 on the valve.
This is also not true because your lash will affect the real lift as well.
How do you find exact TDC with engine in car? If it's a cam with fast lobes a 5 degree difference will make a huge differnce. My current cam has about 0.006" lift per degree change during it's opening phase.
-
I guess the reason they suck stock is that it was hard in the 70s to make an engine that could work crusing at 1500 rpm and also perform well at WOT 7000 rpm. The L28 is very simple, 2 valves, single cam, single plenum intake, very basic computer (or carbs!), simple ignition etc.
Head design is an issue with L28 and high HP. If you compare a stock L28 head to a modern say honda K head they flow very different. Lots and lots of work needs to go into the head to make it it flow enough for >100hp. The intake also sucks so you would have to do something about that as well. Not to mention computer.
Rod/Stroke might be a problem but there are other issues to address first.
-
21 hours ago, Don Don 23 said:
I installed megasquirt 2 on my l28et and i have had trouble getting the engine to stay on and idle. It will turn on and run for about 15 seconds going from lean to rich but it will eventually shut off. If i give it any throttle at all it will kill the engine faster or make it sputter. Is this just an issue with not enough fuel or something more, I also try to set the ignition timing on tunerstudio to be the same as on the timing cover on the engine. When the advance on tunerstudio is at 12 degrees matching with the timing cover on the engine, it wont start at all but when i start adjusting the timing the complete opposite way then the engine will start. I am using a timing light with the engine cranking and injectors unplugged to check the timing because it was jumping too much with the injectors plugged in.
I would recommend to post logs and maybe Chickenman could comment on those.
Sounds like your timing is wrong as well. Could you run the stock timing? It's always good to get fuel only working first. -
Ebay?
-
I asked ATI
" it’s high HP up around 1000HP I would recommend the 7” version P/N 917800."
-
There has been a lot of discussion about what brand but not what size, to summarize:
BHJ Dampers: Close stock replacement but most expensive.
ATI Dampers: Needs different fan belt (very common has the autozone part number somewhere). Slight underdrive so alternator might not charge on idle. Note that this has nothing to do with size. Reading the chart they have, it seems like race is bigger than street.
Rebuilt stock damper: Cheapest but good alternative if not race and modest rpms.
Everything else seems to be a bad choice.
-
Check out Datsun Spirit as well.
I bought a strut bar from Top End Performance, was ok but not great quality. I have heard they are not the best to deal with and expensive but I had no issues with them.
-
18 hours ago, Lazeum said:
I've got a megajolt setup on mine and I love it a lot!
It has been on my L28 for 5 years without any flows.
When it comes to cost, everything including, I came up with a cost of nearly $1000. All the bits and small parts required make the bill bigger than expected
Besides benefit of tuning timing for HP, with TPS or MAP control, you will be able to get proper timing at idle and low rpm. Results would be better driveability/smoothness, better low end torque, lower fuel consumption in addition to higher torque and HP.
Here's a how-to I've made several years ago
Did you make that mount?
Looks very nice, did you cad something and then used someones CNC machione?
-
Maybe replace the stock coil with a msd unit?
-
13 minutes ago, theczechone said:
I guess there is another option
https://www.cbperformance.com/CB-s-Black-Box-Programmable-Timing-Control-Module-p/2013.htm
Cost: $200
Use stock coil and distributor (locked out)
Provides a full surface for tuning.
this looks promising and cheap..
I guess that this will not give you the accuracy of a trigger wheel. At higher RPM the dizzy is a bit inaccurate, at least so I heard. Never have any hands one experience with dizzy and high RPMs. Take a timing light when you run at 5000 RPM, it jumps all over the place. Not sure if that is the timing light being in accurate.
But probably much better than just the dizzy. Do you plan on dyno tune it?
Mine is a track car so it lives in high RPM and high heat, so good timing control is important. For a street car with less high RPM usage it might matterless. What RPMs do you see?
-
Nice!!! All of it
-
47 minutes ago, theczechone said:
I like the megajolt option.
For cost:
Megajolt - 200
Coils - 100 would like to use to CoP version (already have the bracket)
EDIS Module - 50
Trigger Wheel Bracket - 200 (Hoke)
Sensor - $40 (DIY Autotune)
total: $590
I have never used Megajolt but have some of their other stuff (Racecapture pro) and I am happy. Support is pretty good and it seems to be high quality with expensive high quality components and designs. I found there software being a little behind their HW, it still works but you can tell Steve Jobs didn't design it.
What CoP coils are these?
edit:
I find it annoying that there aren't any cheaper trigger wheel brackets. $200 bucks is a lot (I am sure it has to do with low volume, but still).
-
55 minutes ago, theczechone said:
So i know there is an ignition specific forum but i feel that this page is more frequently visited.
I have recently upgraded my 240z to tripple mikunis and also i am building a second motor with a stroker crank and other goodies.
The one area i am not too sure of is ignition. Currently my car is equipped with the ZX distributor and it seems to work well enough but with my new motor i presume that i would need to recurve the dizzy? To be honest I'm not sure how to even specify what i need there.
The other options i've heard of were the
1. 123distributors - programmable distributor $500 - easy to program/tune , looks factory, good reviews
2. LS Coils? - individual coil setup but what can i use to control it? expensive after all set and done?
3. others ?
thanks for your help
VW wasted spark coils are cheaper than LS coils, works the same with being logic coils. Probably lees oomph but not sure if it matters on NA builds, still 100x better than Zx dissy.
I assume your new engine will be carbs?
To trigger coils you need:
- triggerwheel on damper
- some bracket with sensor
- computer, megajolt or ms2
Not sure what coils megajolt works with, think its common with the ford EDIS
-
2 hours ago, MerloZ said:
I dont know if you would call this failing. I mean they r just coming off as if i never even torqued them
I thought the broke off ment that the runner broke off
why do you need a new valancer then if it didnt break?
-
They are known to fail. Just age I guess. If you find a stock one you can have it rebuilt for $100 or so by damper doctor. Otherwise BHJ or ATI is your best bet, people have had issued with the MSA powerforce ones. But maybe that is fixed
Compare your Dyno sheets HERE
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Why the low boost?