Jump to content


Donating Members
  • Content Count

  • Donations

    20.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Everything posted by turbogrill

  1. turbogrill

    L30 non stroker

    I guess the reason they suck stock is that it was hard in the 70s to make an engine that could work crusing at 1500 rpm and also perform well at WOT 7000 rpm. The L28 is very simple, 2 valves, single cam, single plenum intake, very basic computer (or carbs!), simple ignition etc. Head design is an issue with L28 and high HP. If you compare a stock L28 head to a modern say honda K head they flow very different. Lots and lots of work needs to go into the head to make it it flow enough for >100hp. The intake also sucks so you would have to do something about that as well. Not to mention computer. Rod/Stroke might be a problem but there are other issues to address first.
  2. turbogrill

    Megasquirt 2 L28ET wont idle

    I would recommend to post logs and maybe Chickenman could comment on those. Sounds like your timing is wrong as well. Could you run the stock timing? It's always good to get fuel only working first.
  3. turbogrill

    86.5mm L28 piston rings

  4. turbogrill

    Help with L6 Harmonic Balancer Size for L28ET

    I asked ATI " it’s high HP up around 1000HP I would recommend the 7” version P/N 917800."
  5. turbogrill

    Help with L6 Harmonic Balancer Size for L28ET

    There has been a lot of discussion about what brand but not what size, to summarize: BHJ Dampers: Close stock replacement but most expensive. ATI Dampers: Needs different fan belt (very common has the autozone part number somewhere). Slight underdrive so alternator might not charge on idle. Note that this has nothing to do with size. Reading the chart they have, it seems like race is bigger than street. Rebuilt stock damper: Cheapest but good alternative if not race and modest rpms. Everything else seems to be a bad choice.
  6. turbogrill

    Top End Performance - Chattsowirth, CA

    Check out Datsun Spirit as well. I bought a strut bar from Top End Performance, was ok but not great quality. I have heard they are not the best to deal with and expensive but I had no issues with them.
  7. turbogrill

    Ignition Control Options

    Did you make that mount? Looks very nice, did you cad something and then used someones CNC machione?
  8. turbogrill

    Ignition Control Options

    Maybe replace the stock coil with a msd unit?
  9. turbogrill

    Ignition Control Options

    I guess that this will not give you the accuracy of a trigger wheel. At higher RPM the dizzy is a bit inaccurate, at least so I heard. Never have any hands one experience with dizzy and high RPMs. Take a timing light when you run at 5000 RPM, it jumps all over the place. Not sure if that is the timing light being in accurate. But probably much better than just the dizzy. Do you plan on dyno tune it? Mine is a track car so it lives in high RPM and high heat, so good timing control is important. For a street car with less high RPM usage it might matterless. What RPMs do you see?
  10. turbogrill

    Ignition Control Options

    Nice!!! All of it
  11. turbogrill

    Ignition Control Options

    I have never used Megajolt but have some of their other stuff (Racecapture pro) and I am happy. Support is pretty good and it seems to be high quality with expensive high quality components and designs. I found there software being a little behind their HW, it still works but you can tell Steve Jobs didn't design it. What CoP coils are these? edit: I find it annoying that there aren't any cheaper trigger wheel brackets. $200 bucks is a lot (I am sure it has to do with low volume, but still).
  12. turbogrill

    Ignition Control Options

    VW wasted spark coils are cheaper than LS coils, works the same with being logic coils. Probably lees oomph but not sure if it matters on NA builds, still 100x better than Zx dissy. I assume your new engine will be carbs? To trigger coils you need: - triggerwheel on damper - some bracket with sensor - computer, megajolt or ms2 Not sure what coils megajolt works with, think its common with the ford EDIS
  13. turbogrill

    Harmonic balancer fell off

    I thought the broke off ment that the runner broke off why do you need a new valancer then if it didnt break?
  14. turbogrill

    Harmonic balancer fell off

    They are known to fail. Just age I guess. If you find a stock one you can have it rebuilt for $100 or so by damper doctor. Otherwise BHJ or ATI is your best bet, people have had issued with the MSA powerforce ones. But maybe that is fixed
  15. turbogrill

    Budget build ZX

    Not sure, mine had. Send them an email, they helped me with questions. I ordered from speedwaymotors.com, I would email them as well to make sure you get the correct wheel. Can't remember if I had to pay shipping. Summit racing doesn't have shipping but they don't sell them I think,
  16. turbogrill

    Budget build ZX

    These are even dot approved, maybe a requirement for you. http://www.bassettwheel.com/dot.html $70 a wheel....
  17. turbogrill

    Budget build ZX

    There are some pictures here, It's stretched but for racing application it's the recommended width on 10s. Unless you need maxwidth for max performance on a track a 8 or 9" wide tire would be plenty. I have had both 16x6" and 15x8" Miata wheels, both of them looked a little bit more "normal".
  18. turbogrill

    280zx rust rust rust!!

    Awesome! Good job. My car has a cage, thats what holding it together.
  19. turbogrill

    Budget build ZX

    Check out basset racing wheels. That is what I have, 15x10. Cheap and surprisingly light. Do you know what backspacing you need?
  20. turbogrill

    S130 Parts Weight Thread - DEFINITIVE

    Crash structure in passanger door, 7.5lbs. Couln't cut al lof it out, probablt 0.5lbs more to be had.
  21. Hi, Wrote a post on facebook about building a 280zx race car. Figured I can post it here as well. Plenty of good discussions on Facebook but they get lost. First, why 280zx and Chump? Because it's 150 pts, 21 gallon fuel tank and not to heavy. These are some of my learnings (in arbitrary order) from starting with a 280zx and knowing nothing about building race cars (or racing): 1. Rear hatch glass From a fire safety point of view you should add lexan on the rear hatch, it doesn't cost any points. We also noticed a big improvement in aero, it's terrible from an aero perspective to run without a rear glass. Buy a lexan sheet at homedepot and rivet it, you can make a template from cardboard first. Cut 2 metal bars to hold it down. Look at the chumpcar rules, there is a minimum thickness allowed. Everyone does this mod. 2. Fuel starvation Even with stock power we had fuel starvation at around half tank and way before 2h stint limit. If you don't care about placement then this is not a problem, but it's going to hold you back more than lack of power or suspension. We would be faster than many other car but we had to stop for fuel even we had plenty of fuel in the tank! Solution is either hydramat or surgetank, or both. Alternative do a fuel cell (but install it correct!) 3. Wheels Big drawback with he 280zx platform is the lack of wide wheel options, it's a unusal bolt pattern and offset. We found that 15x10 works best (we tried 16x6 Miata, 14" stock, 15"x8 Miata) these are the one we use: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bassett-50ST4B-15X10-D... ROTA and XXR makes some 15x8 and 15x9. There are some really nice tire options as well, Ventus RS-4 is the best one (245s). Some racing people say that wide wheels doesn't matter, but all the top teams run wide wheels (I think they can cope with the heat better). There are several seconds per lap difference between a 15x10 and the stock 14". 4. Suspension The stock 280zx 40 year old suspension is terrible for racing. Way to soft. This is obviously a very complex subject that I am not an expert in. Poly bushings is an absolute must, for a budget build get some KYB and cut the springs. But I would get GC (or T3) coil overs, camber adjusters and maybe swaybar. We are running MSA camber bolt, cut eibach springs and biggets front swaybar. Car handles pretty ok. If you want to spend money, get everything fromhttps://technotoytuning.com/nissan/s130 5. Suspension - safety The flimsy stock tierod ends are known to break, this is a disaster. From a safety perspective I would get https://technotoytuning.com/.../tension-control-rods... It's $240 so it sucks but loosing steering is not fun. If you get T3 control arms you don't need it. 6. Power We had megasquirt and headers on a stock 1980 engine. We could hang with E46 323 and smoke most NA miatas, but there are plenty of cars that has more power as well. With 21 gallons it's tempting to get some more power, you have the points for it as well. Going turbo might seem interesting on paper but it's rare to see successful chump teams with turbo engines. So many options, it really comes down to budget, skill and the chumpcar rules. Megasquirt, homeported head, cam, headers and hogged out intake is a good low point low cost solution. There are also swaps, I think a 200hp crank swap is about what the rules allows for this car. 7. Brakes The 280zx stock calipers has decent stopping power, however I found them to struggle with the abuse (at COTA). The pre 81 rear brakes are TERRIBLE. Luckily they resdesinged the rear brakes after 81. For stock calipers we found that Carbotech RP2 in front and XP8 in back worked well. Motul 600 has worked well for us. However there are a few Wilwood conversions you can do, Arionza Z Car, Silvermine motors and T3 has some kits. I did the Silvermine in front and custom in the rear. Besides greater stopping power you get more pad options (cheaper). 8. Transmission The 4spd is made of glass, the pre 81 5spd is a little better. The post 81 5spd seems to be the best. There is a turbo transmission but this is rare and expensive. There is a very attractive modification you can do to a 240sx transmission, these are strong, plentiful and cheap. We have broken a 4spd and have 2 5spds that are a bit rough after a few races. I have a modified 240sx tranmsission, haven't installed it yet. Also get a lighter flywheel and a ACL-NX1-HDG6 clutch, works great. 9. Weight Remove as much as you can. There is a weight thread on this this forum. 10. Chassis We had a 4 points racetep strut brace that snapped. I think this means that it was needed! Also make sure the roll cage attaches to everything, you can play the rules a little here. I would pull out bars to the strut towwers, just make sure you are within the rules Have fun!
  22. turbogrill

    '71 240Z

    Just build a l28....or are you limited to bore somehow? Also, cam selection is very important. 10000 different strategies.
  23. turbogrill

    '71 240Z

    Sounds great! But point less getting the ld28 if you are not going l28? Isky has cams as well. Race car or DD?
  24. Hi, Are the Kameari gaskets the only big bore gaskets available? Seems like Cometic is 89mm and felpro and Nissan are 88.9 (or 88mm depending on source). Thanks
  25. turbogrill

    Matching cam & crank timing

    Not sure if degreeing the cam makes much sense without a degree wheel? But maybe it does. I did check my timing and it was "kinda" ok. I was 2-3 degrees of on every event, I think that was due to inaccuracy in my readings. It's a fun exercise to at least check the timing of your cam, gives you a little better understanding of everything. But I wouldn't consider it crucial if you just want to get going. There is also a youtube showing how to do this: Good pics: