turbogrill
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Posts posted by turbogrill
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5 minutes ago, Gollum said:
So you're saying if I made an EFI analysis dashboard in splunk you'd use it?
That actually makes me feel even better about the last version of my dash:
Literally scrap stainless I found. What a bitch to cut. And man were those corners sharp. I didn't put fancy hose on my dash like you did!
Looks like minimalism is the trend here. Actually I think that is better, lost an engine due to the driver didn't see the gauges. Just to much information for the driver to process. If it had been a single light it would have worked.
Never heard of splunk, looks interesting.
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3 hours ago, Gollum said:
Fuse panel donated from a 83 turbo. Panel is from an aluminum computer case. Front switch panel is from a macbook pro case.Switches, loads, and grounds bundled together through common terminal blocks (grounds are tired together using a home electrical box style ground strip). Obviously a bit messy inside, which will get sorted to some degree, but my main goal was trace-ability and being able to work on it without breaking my back. Whole sections can be diagnosed easily as systems and/or removed as units. You can see I used aluminum flex conduit to do my runs to main sections of the car, which makes it relatively easy to pull/repull entire runs.
Feel free to call it ghetto, you can see I obviously care.
Love it.
This thread has just turned into a Dash beautiful context.
The display is a raspberry pi running Race Capture Pro and Tunerstudio. Car also has internet so you can login over internet via VNC remotely and tune the car. Race Capture pro is used for speed/gps/track timera and so on. That is also displayed online using Podium Connect, so you can see oil pressure and stuff online in real time.
I wish I had good fabrication skills....
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40 minutes ago, Gollum said:
Have you seen my dash? I have almost zero factory wiring left, chassis or engine...
I removed every wire and every electrical gizmos (ECU relays etc). Saved 25lbs!
Please show me your dash, I also redid every wiring with Megasquirt and custom "fusebox". But still looks like crap. Need some inspiration.
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Got it!
Looks great, not sure why I have 1000000000000000000000 more wires than you going all over the place.
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2 hours ago, Gollum said:
So I assume by now you realize you have the BIP 373 installed
I'd just run directly off that, no external ignition box. I'd do that simply to have "easy" wiring.
...says the guy with all the wires...
And since I teased in my last post:
That is very clean! jealous!!
IS that the complete harness???
- Where is your alternator wires?
- Where is your map wires?
- Where is your airtemp sensor wires?
- Where is your oilp or oil temp wires?
- Where is your trigger wheel wires?
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Thanks!
That is useful information!
Decided to reuse a set of dished pistons with new rings, will have the shop hone the block.
A little less oomph than with flat tops and earlier shift point but turning this into a budget track beater.
Want to build a nice race engine or turbo at some point in my life, saving the money for that. Those DSI piston and rods looks awesome!
On 8/10/2018 at 3:30 PM, Chickenman said:then should you really be trusting them for other work? It's pretty basic.
Well, it's a busy machine shop in Austin. Haven't heard about any screw ups and they have been around forever but my gut feeling says that you shouldn't trust them with specialized non American engine work.
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Hi,
I am looking to get forged pistons to my super reliable NA track beater. Are all the forged pistons floating pins?
I would like to avoid floating to make life easy and less stuff that can go wrong:
1. The "clip' might be installed wrong (by me or machine shop)
2. Some uncertainty about what bushing to use or not to use
3. Adding a oil hole to rod seems like more work that can go wrong.
Forged is borderline unnecessary but will give me a piece of mind. My optimal shift point is probably going to be at ~6500 but I want to be able to over rev all the way to 7000 RPM. Reason for this is it can save me a shift, shifting takes time and can upset the car and more stuff to think about (if you are a newb like me).
The intention with the engine is to have something reliable that I can beat on and don't have to rebuild.
Thanks
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Hi,
My newly built race car engine blew up. I just want to get my car ready so I can start racing again.
1.Would it be a terrible idea to just throw the head on a junkyard block I have laying around in the garage? It's the early dished pistons.
2.Can the stock pistons survive hard tracking with shift points around 6500 and occasional overreving to 7000 rpm?
Debating if I should get new rings or just throw on the head an go racing.
Engine is a 200hp ish L28 with cam, ms and polished head.
I am fine with the potential loss of performance with dished vs the flat tops I had.
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1 hour ago, Chickenman said:
Two things you have to do.
1: Download the current SCCA rules and go over them with a fine tooth comb. Have preconceived notions about nothing.
2: Details, details details. . You blueprint and maximize every thing. When in doubt, find a friendly Racer. Or ask a scrutineer.
^ That actually gives you a fair amount of Leeway. The MS (or any other brand Programmable ECU ) is a HUGE improvement. Proper AFR's are essential. And the ability to program Spark curve helps as well.
The Exhaust and headers allowance really helps. Probably more head work going on than you realise. Port matching is allowed, so is CC combustion chambers, Multi-angle valve and seat grind. Replacement of Valve guide allows some gains ( Tapered guides ) and likley Tuliped Valve Stems are allowed.
Reduction in friction is also a big area. Reduction in ring tension, engine build ( Bearing clearances ) to use lightweight synthetic oils. All are areas' for gain.
This is a new level for me, I am more of a slap everything together while kids are a sleep and hope it works (so far it has). But only built 2 engines so far, maybe the 3rd can be a little more detailed.
It's very cool, seems like there is plenty to learn.
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1 minute ago, SleeperZ said:
Never heard anyone call any version of the stock L28 a "turd". They are all very good engines, including the L24 and L26, heck even the LD28.
I think they are a little slow in stock configuration compared to a modern engine.
But I agree, I also think they are great engines. Durable, easy to work on and has a surprising amount of potential.
But either way, how do you get 200hp out of a stock L28? Mystery to me
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2 hours ago, madkaw said:
Good thing TonyD doesn’t get on here much anymore or you would get schooled on this. I believe I’ve read 208 hp on an ITS motor in its day, but I could be wrong .
Voodoo and secrets that builders won’t ever give away.
I believe in the rules there’s allowances for removing metal in certain places - head !
CR would be for race guess I’m guessing .
Hell- maybe I’m talking out my ass
21 minutes ago, ryant67 said:Excruciating attention to detail would be my guess. Everything perfectly balanced, precise clearances, removal of sources of parasitic loss, and the willingness/ability to push the engine above the RPM levels of a street build.
I would imagine that ITS racers have engines with lifespans measured in hours, and they get treated with a much higher level of maintenance, as well as regular rebuilds. As such they can be pushed much harder and survive.
It would be interesting to get an experienced answer.
But how how how how how
These are the obvious mods that are allowed:
- Megasquirt (using dizzy not trigger wheel)
- Headers + Exhaust
- Cold intake
- .040 over (but same shape, so no flattops on N47)
- Intake match to head
- Valve guide can be changed (but no head work?)
- Retard / advance cam (at least it's not mentioned not to)
How do you get 208 hp from that??
Tony where are you?
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Hi,
Considering the age the Z cars seems to be a popular SCCA ITS engine.
It's a bit surprising since the engines has to be more or less stock under ITS rules. And we all know what a turd a stock L28 is..
But I remember seeing a post on this forum that ITS built L28 actually had significantly more than the whooping factory 135hp.
Anyone has any more details about these engines?
How is it possible to extract any power out of the L28 if you are not allowed to touch the cam?
(I guess it applies to the L24/L26 as well)
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Hi,
I have a freshly built engine with damaged pistons and scratched cylinder walls. My plan is to remove the crank and have it bored for new pistons.
I can still reuse the main and rod bearings right (as long as they are in spec)? Removing the crank, rebore and press on new pistons shouldn't hurt the bearings. Or are they one-time-fit only?
I will also reuse my ARP rodbolts, this is ok according to manufacturer.
Someone told me you can't, I can see how you typically replace those while you have everything apart but in my case they are "brand new".
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Don't know when your carbs are going to be the limitation but this is how I see it:
- over 6500-7000 RPM needs forged pistons for a reliable build. This would require boring and getting new pistons, a bit over >$1000.
So very high duration cams might not be needed, maybe a 280/290 duration would be enough?
- Over .460" lift and you need different springs and seals. So if you want to make life easy you take a cam with a max lift of 0.460".
If you want to machine your head then this wont' be a problem.
- Over .480" lift reground and you typically need to mess around with thicker lash pads and aftermarket retainers. Not rocket science but takes a little time to fiddle it.
- High lift cams might need valve pockets cut out from the piston, there is no rule because there are many parameter but typically a 300 duration 0.550" lift cam would probably need it. A 280 duration 0.480" probably doesn't. But again, other factors that determines your piston to valve clearance.
- High duration and high lift really needs a good head. Stock head flows badly at these operating points. The required work for a 8000 RPM head is typically more expensive then head work for a 6500 RPM engine. Bottom line is that race cams and stock heads is a waste of money.
I would get a Isky L-490, I think over that and that head might be a limitation. Do you have any flow numbers on the ported head?
For my first build I got a 280 duration 0.480" cam and cast pistons, it's a nice sweet spot and pretty easy to build.
But seems like you want to be a little more aggressive.
Anyhow, there are a lot of factors.....
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10 minutes ago, Chickenman said:
I haven't done anything to this head...Yet. This is how I received it from E-Bay. Best $150 bucks I've ever spent... well maybe this second Best. There was this girl... errr,.. never mind.
Oh wow!
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Nice! What do you do with your valve seats? Make sure the valve mating surface is clean? Or do you reshape them to match the cut valve angle?
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Very cool!
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1 hour ago, madkaw said:
e-88 Head - shaved .050 , bigger valves , ported slightly . Yes that’s a stock N-42.
Got it! Thanks! Looks very clean.
Any dyno results?
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1 hour ago, madkaw said:
Running N42 intake with Isky 490/290. Makes power to redline. Actually wish it made more down lower. It almost seems like you have to get the air velocity up on these intakes to make power, but maybe just my set up. My triples hit harder down lower, but no bitching about the stock intake.
Is that a stock intake?
Do you have any head work done?
Been researching this like crazy and so much conflicting information.
Nice engine bay btw
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On 7/12/2018 at 2:17 PM, Chickenman said:
No all new bespoke castings, but based on a Cannon Weber 45mm manifold I believe. It's all in the FB blog.
What diameter is the intake at the head side? Same as the head?
Stock head is about 34mm at the intake, the stock EFI diameter is 32mm.
I don't want to make the runners larger than the head input port.
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Curious as well
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1 hour ago, Chickenman said:
Bowl blending 101. One of the first things you do. Perfectly fine.
Awesome! Been doing it on the intake. Must be pretty big gains for little work, that ridge on the exhaust is pretty bad.
....would be cool to have a flow bench in my garage.
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Hi,
How often do you have to rebuild a 8000+ RPM race engine? And what do you have to do? Replace rings?
Seems like a 6500 rpm track toy can live forever given you change oil and inspect things on regular basis, curious to when it's start to become expensive.
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That sound so much better than having to fiddle with the cam and avoiding the nervous moment of wedging the chain.
Need tires, HELP! 15X9-28 15X10-28
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Hmm that is surprising. A lot of Miatas run 15x8 - 15x10. The RS4 is the king of 200 TW tires.