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About CobaltFire

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    San Diego, CA
  1. Are they any GOOD though? I'm not interested in going low for looks; I just want good suspension.
  2. I've been looking at various options for my Z, and I'm really curious as to what AZC uses for struts. I like that they are legitimate fully adjustable for height/preload but without knowing what's in them I'm really hesitant to purchase. If T3 made a threaded strut type and were up front about what it was I'b be inclined to go with it. The Megan coilover conversion looks interesting, but I can't stand the cars I've ridden in with them. I wish someone would adapt some KW's.
  3. Building an L28 (NA)

    This works, but note that the circuit that's under discussion as the possible problem likely isn't fused (most key buzzers aren't). You'd never find the problem that way if this IS the problem.
  4. no wiring harness... make my own or megasquirt

    There are a couple of key questions you need to ask yourself: Are you comfortable tuning your car, or paying someone to do so? If yes, MegaSquirt (MS) is an option. If no, you MAY be able to MS if you stay stock and someone has a solid map. Are Carbs legal for your car where you live? If yes, this could be an option. If no, well... no. Is there some other reason you want the stock ECU? That's up to you, but they are outdated, getting old, and finicky compared to MS. They ARE more plug and play (questionable in your case without a harness). Sit down and think through your real goals and options, and do it right the first time.
  5. 250hp engine swap for $1500?

    A cheap LS (5.3l's are cheap and bulletproof at that power level) tuned for torque with tall gears. 250HP can be a ton of torque and make for a relaxed driver pretty easily. EDIT: Is the 250HP rated or dyno'd? Be tough to do an LS if that's rated power; if it's dyno'd you could tune it for torque and put a restrictor plate on it. The 1999 4.8l is 255HP factory though (according to Wikipedia). EDIT Again: I'm an idiot, this is in the L6 forum so that's probably what you are looking for. I'll leave my stupidity for posterity, but feel free to ignore me.
  6. Building an L28 (NA)

    Sounds like a plan! Looking forward to hearing if it fixes the issue; might save someone else some heartache later.
  7. Building an L28 (NA)

    Ok, if you have an issue when you insert but don't turn the key your ignition switch is likely bad. It's not supposed to do ANYTHING with just a key in it according to everything I can find. If it's internally crosswiring you will get some odd results, which you have. Also, those other questions are important. Year, model, where the sense wire is going, and where the voltmeter is bridged at.
  8. Building an L28 (NA)

    What I'm seeing after a quick look at the schematic for a Z (I'm new to these but work on electronics for a living) is a couple things. First, the indication that turning on the lights works but your voltage goes to 0. That indicates that wherever your voltmeter is wired to is seeing ground. I need to know where that tap is. Second issue is that voltage spike while running. I'm betting that wherever the sense wire goes is shorted to ground. That would cause it to push the alternator high. A few possibilities from looking at the short issue for a few minutes: bad light switch, bad tail lamp (if removing the bulb fixes the issue that's it), bad dimmer. I'm going to bet it's two seperate problems.
  9. Anyone have a Hitachi 8 track from a jdm fairlady s30?

    So I'm going to back up the guys on the other forum. You need diodes there, and I'd go with the numbers recommended (1N4001 has been mentioned in other forums as a viable replacement for that type, which is called an Epoxy Rectifier Diode). I'm not perfect, but I do work on electronics for a living (military aircraft) and have worked on plenty of stuff this old. Also, I'd go ahead and replace all the caps while you are in there. Those are electrolytic caps, and they are usually the first thing to go out on something that age. I'm going to bet that a voltage transient that's usually handled fine by those caps got through and smoked the diodes (which were also degraded). Actually, I'd just rebuild the whole thing from the ground up if you actually want to use it. This is a dead serious recommendation. You'll get a long life out of it that way. If you were really interested I can talk to you about doing a schematic and etching some replacement boards for people who have these radios. Isn't that hard OR expensive, and it's DIY stuff.
  10. New Member and Owner of a 240Z

    I'm actually looking into where to start to make it safe to drive. Lighting and wiring are big ones, but so are the brakes. I'm very tempted to swap to some newer (S13/R32/Z32/etc.) front struts and be done with that part.
  11. Hey all, I'm the new owner of a car that's been in my family for a while. To the best of my memory I think my uncle owned it for the better part of 20 years, maybe more. However, he got tired of it and I picked it up for a song ($1000). What I know about it now: 2.8l block with high comp pistons, some sort of hot cam, triple 44PHH carbs, and a 6-2-1 header with a crimped exhaust with some sort of motorcycle can on the rear. It's got a welded in cage and is sitting on Shelby Mini Europa wheels (15x7 I believe) with 205/50 Tires (Chinese, but reasonably good ones, I previously ran the same tires on an E28 535is I fixed up and drove). Supposedly this build hit the dyno and was at around 180whp when it was first done a couple years ago, but it's only driven a few thousand miles in the last few years since then. It needs a fair bit of TLC but is actually very close to being on the road (it was a daily driver about 9 months ago). I'm a HUGE fan of classic Japanese cars, but haven't ever owned one. I do have a diverse history of cars that I've owned, modified, and casually tracked/raced at one point or another in my life to pull from. Interesting cars include a 1991 Honda CRX HF, 1987 BMW 535is, 1988 Isuzu Impulse Turbo, 1986 SVO Mustang, 2004 Mazda Mazdaspeed MX-5, 2005 Subaru WRX STi, and a 2015 Chevrolet SS (Holden Commodore). As you can see, mostly forced induction (I do like those turbos!) but I'm really on the fence with the Z. At this point I'm going to be driving the car and going through it one system at a time, addressing needs while I figure out want I want from the car. Right now I know the headlight buckets, fiberglass fairings, and lights themselves are toast, it needs a battery, at least one carb needs a rebuild (flooded the engine), and various other small things like fluid flushes and replacing almost all the rubber (seals/belts/bushings) to get it safe on the road. If anyone knows what lower front valence is on the car, and what it might be missing to go back to stock, I'd appreciate that knowledge. I'm still debating on the final look; there is something to be said for everything from a ZG look (don't like the nose, but the rest is cool) to a stock Z sleeper. Some of that will depend on just what panels require replacement. I am currently trying to gather info on a carbon or FRP bonnet and hatch panel and would appreciate any positive or negative experiences. Same with fenders, etc. If I'm replacing panels I'm going to evaluate what type of panel suits my goals/budget best at that time (carbon, FRP, Al, Fe, etc.). Finally, a thank you to all the contributors of this forum, is due. I've been lurking for about a year now while I negotiated to take this Z off of my uncle's hands. The discussion here are nothing short of amazing, and have been a huge help to me already (by grounding some of my wilder ideas). Hats off to the ladies and gents here. CobaltFire Full size for detail: https://tjridgway.smugmug.com/Car-Pics/n-QVTv3S/i-sdv5js3/A Full size for detail: https://tjridgway.smugmug.com/Car-Pics/n-QVTv3S/i-gPhBZKK/A