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About bawfuls

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  1. Alright so the new combo switch is here which should make testing easier. I checked without the switch connected and I've got 12V at #2 and #4 (at the steering column). I am also seeing the tail lights come on when the battery is connected but the combo switch is in the OFF position (wtf?). This is the case even with the combo switch completely disconnected. With the new switch connected and turned on, the marker lights come on but the headlights do not, same as before.
  2. I'm not using the switch because mine is broken and the new one hasn't arrived yet. I'm jumping the pins at the connector where the switch plugs in. I have power at the fuse lead that feeds the combo switch connector, but I did not check for power at the connector itself, which seems like an obvious oversight now. Will have to check tomorrow.
  3. bumping this thread with mo' problems In trying to repair my switch, I eventually broke it, so I bit the bullet and ordered a refurb off ebay. In the meantime, I'm trying to test new lights by just jumping the connections in place of the switch. With the ignition at Acc and nothing jumped, I am getting power at the fuse box at the "Power to Combo Switch for Park" point in the image above. If I jump #1 and #2 in the combo switch image, the side marker lights come on, along with turn signals (not flashing obvi) and the tail lights. But no headlights (this is with original headlights installed). I also see no power at the headlight connections in the fuse box (on either side of the fuses) in this condition (the orange and orange/white leads on the top left in that image). tl;dr: when using a jumper to bypass the combo switch, marker lights come on but no headlights and no power at the headlight fuses Any ideas?
  4. I am not sure, it didn't occur to me to try swapping those push rods, in part because I gave my busted old Z booster to Oreilly for a $30 core refund when I bought the Tacoma booster. Chopping it with an angle grinder was pretty easy and quick. The main headache was fitting it into the car, realizing it needed to be chopped, removing it, etc. If I knew from the get go that it needed to be about 1" shorter that would have saved some time and hassle.
  5. I submit an alternative option for a 1" brake master cylinder upgrade on the S30. The late 90's Toyota Tacoma brake booster has the same bolt pattern as the S30 on the firewall side. With some minor filing/grinding, and chopping about an inch off the brake booster input push rod that connects to the pedal, this booster can be installed in an S30. I do not know the exact range of years, but I used one for a 1997 Tacoma, 2WD smaller engine. This is the smaller booster of the era, at 8.7" diameter (still larger than the stock S30 booster, but it fits in the space fine). Oreilly and Autozone generally have this booster in stock, as a remanufacture (~$200). Then you can get a new 1" brake master cylinder (~$75) meant to mate to the Tacoma booster. Again this was in stock at my local Autozone. The new MC will require fresh brake hard lines for the short run from the cylinder to the distribution junction, since the orientation is different. All in all, slightly more expensive than the upgrade in the OP, but parts are newer and should be more reliable. Also by moving to a slightly bigger booster it helps alleviate some of the increased pedal pressure the 1" MC requires.
  6. Picked up both parts and installed them today. A few notes on fitment: -The pushrod that connects to the brake pedal was too long for my 1977, I had to chop the end of it (twice, because I didn't want to chop too much) to get it to fit. -The neck or whatever of the booster didn't *quite* want to fit into the hole in my firewall. It was seizing on the top, so I filed out the edge of the hole there a bit and also the brake booster neck a touch, and everything fit alright. As someone noted earlier, the neck/pushrod isn't directly centered in the four bolts that go through the firewall, but it looks to be located in nearly the same spot as the stock one was anyway. -The brake line connections for this Tacoma master cylinder are located on the side and not the bottom, which means I need to run fresh lines. Thankfully, these are short runs to the junction just below, so it's nbd. A few pictures after install (yes I know I need hose clamps on those vacuum lines between the booster and vacuum pump)
  7. Cool, that settles it then. Upgrades it is! if people are interested I can share how it all works out later, though the car won't be running for another month at best.
  8. Yeah I did the common Toyota front caliper swap. So you're saying I need to go to a 1" master for those? That makes sense I suppose. Is there any reason to suspect the $75 Toyota 1" master cylinder from Autozone is bad?
  9. I do not know for sure that my master cylinder needs replacing though. Oreilly claims to have a new 7/8' masters for the 280z available for order (though not in stock) for only $54 Or are those not actually compatible? I seem to recall reading about people haveing trouble with Oreilly and Autozone thinking they have compatible masters when they really don't.
  10. I did not check the rod position so I can’t verify that. Also noticed the same thing 720fast did, a reman original for my ‘77 is $100 so I’m leaning that direction. Especially since I could retain my stock master cylinder.
  11. Just got back from my local Oreilly's, where I looked at a 8.7" booster from a 1997 Tacoma (should be this one). I brought in the busted booster from my 4/77 280Z to compare. The bolt pattern on the firewall side of the boosters are identical! What's not a match is the master cylinder side. The matching master cylinder for this booster is $115 and a 1" bore compared to the stock 7/8". This feels like the simplest solution to me. It'll be a clear upgrade in stopping power, with a bit of an increase in pedal effort. But on the flip side, I'm doing an electric conversion so I get the bonus of regen braking to help alleviate that effort. Knowing the 1997 Tacoma bolt pattern is a match, we can look at other options online.
  12. Bumping this because I have the same question. The brake booster on my '77 S30 is shot and I was similarly intrigued by the MCM claim of a plug in option from Toyota. Has anyone tried it yet?
  13. Yeah you're probably right on that. I think the lights worked only some of the time before, I really didn't test them a lot until now. Obvious answer is to just rebuild the combo switch as many have done in the past.
  14. Thank you for this, things worked exactly as you anticipated here. Power at #2, jumping 2-1 brought lights on but they don't come on when plugged in and with switch on. Time to search for combo switch repairs I suppose. Since this was working before I put in LEDs and then broke once I did, that makes me suspicious that a repaired switch will again fail with LEDs. From what I can tell via searches here and elsewhere, this isn't a typical issue though? The load resistor issue should matter for the flashers but I'm not even at that point yet.