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bawfuls last won the day on February 13

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  1. I did not yet, unfortunately. I've been prioritizing other things on the car since the headlights reliably work (with the old bulbs) in the high beam position, though they aren't high beam bright. I finally got the car running this past weekend and there's a lot of other bits I'm focused on at the moment. Your help has been invaluable though and I will revisit this thread once I've got other things dialed in (suspension, flywheel re-balance, etc).
  2. Motor is rated for 120 hp 179 ft.lbs peak. I should get somewhat better acceleration around town than the stock L28 (particularly since I get peak torque now from 0-3500 RPM), but with a reduced top speed. Continuous power output is only ~40hp, so based on that and gearing/drag calcs I've found online puts top speed around 90-100 mph (this car has the 5-speed transmission), which IMO is plenty fast for a 40 year old tin-can of a car. I expect around 90-100 miles of range out of this once everything is dialed in (suspension leveled out, front aero cleaned up, etc).
  3. BTW this car runs as of today. Still need to address the suspension and a couple other issues, but at least it's moving now. motor spin for the first time: https://imgur.com/a/jb5W8An test drive: https://imgur.com/a/51VIz4Y
  4. If the GC sleeves give more adjustability and are of higher quality, I don't mind paying a bit more. With my very unusual weight distribution, it is probably a good idea to lean towards more height adjustment. I am also weary of reports the Cosmos are quite stiff, while the GC kit will let me pick from a range of spring rates that may be more suitable to daily driving on our decaying San Diego streets. Particularly if the GC sleeves give me a bit of "future proofing" in case I add power/bigger tires/etc down the road. $500 for all 4 corners and the piece of mind that they'll work for potential future upgrades is worth it to me. Now I just have to figure out how to pick shocks and springs. I might give GC a call and ask them some Q's. This thread has been quite helpful already, thanks!
  5. Is this a better version of the Cosmos method? Looks like quite a lot of height adjustability. https://groundcontrolstore.com/collections/s30-coilover-conversion/products/coilover-conversion-kit-74-78-nissan-260-280z-not-zx-weld
  6. Thanks, sorry I miss-read the subforum heading. The Cosmo kit sounds like the easiest option, could I also replace the stock shocks at the same time to address the ride harshness? It looks like the Cosmo kit is only ~$250 for all four, while the BC kit that comes up for this car is $315 for just one corner. I expect to get access to scales this weekend or next week, so I can get more details on weight distribution at that point.
  7. As I've mentioned briefly here before, I'm nearing completion of my electric conversion on a 1977 280Z. The conversion has resulted in a significant change to the car's weight balance, and I need advice on suspension adjustments to go along with this. In lieu of the ~500 lbs L28, there is now a 120 lbs electric motor: And where the spare tire well/gas tank once was, there is ~300 lbs of batteries and battery housing: As a result, the ride height is quite high up front: The rear looks fine to me though: This car will be a daily driver around town and on freeways. I have no plans to track/autocross/etc (and would need to do a major overhaul of my battery pack to set it up for that). So I'm looking for a way to lower the front while keeping the ride comfortable for daily driving. It's been suggested that I just cut the springs up front, but others have warned that's a horrible idea. I'd rather not spend big money on a fancy setup with a ton of adjustment meant for racing that I'll never use, so is there something in between that might work better for me?
  8. There is definitely something draining my 12V battery faster than expected when the car is off. I typically disconnect the negative terminal when I stop working on the headlight issue and leave for the day, but I left it connected Monday night I think and as noted the battery was down today to ~11.9 from the 12.4 or so it was at on Monday. It has been recharging for the last 15 minutes or so and is up to 12.15, so my recharge circuit is working as intended at least. I've no idea if this drain is related to the headlight issue or not. But I also have no idea how I'm going to chase down the leak. I guess I need one of those multimeters that has the clamps so you can check current through wires, then just start from the battery and eliminate branches one by one?
  9. I just checked voltage again at both the round connector sub-harness and at the headlight bulb connector, and they were the same (this is with the high beams pin on the 6-pin connector at the turn signal grounded directly to chassis). voltages on these three pins: 11.4V, 0.8V, 10.9V. That's the middle pin, the fatter one, that reads low while the other two read high, all of these are measured against chassis ground. Voltage at the two headlight fuses are both 11.0 currently. I just checked the battery directly and it's reading 11.88V right now (lower than the ~12.4 I was seeing on Monday, I have the car "on" right now so the DC-DC converter should be recharging the 12V battery from the high voltage pack). Voltage at the C-4 connector is 11.98V for both headlights. This is a bit funny because when I checked the voltage directly on the battery terminals immediately after this, it read 11.88V. Verified no power at any of the sub-harness connectors for either side while the C-4 connection is open. Still feels like a grounding issue because I only get power when I directly ground the high-beam pin at the turn signal harness as you instructed in your previous post, and I get no power at the headlights when I ground the low beam pin and put the switch to low beams.
  10. -unplugging the 6-wire connector for the turn signal switch did not remove the "extra" power from the headlight plug -grounding the red/black wire on the harness side did not enable low beams in the "on" position -grounding the red/white wire on the harness side DID enable lights in the "high beam" position, but when I unplugged a headlight to check the voltage, it's only getting 10V on the high connection. My stock lights come on with this (not super bright), but the new LED lights don't of course because they need 12V As best I can tell, this is how the lights behaved when I first got the car and had it running (limping) on the stock engine. Headlights did not come on in the low beam position, came on but weren't very bright in the high beam position. That makes me feel a little better about having not fucked things up more when I ripped the engine out. So this means... there's some issue with the ground loop connections? Not sure how to diagnose further.
  11. Finally back in the shop with some time to look at this issue again, and it feels like I'm going in circles. I replaced the 12V battery with a fresh one and started the process again. -I've got power at the white/red stripe going into the combo switch on the column now (I checked the connection behind that white plastic harness in the passenger foot-well area as well, it didn't work at first but did after cleaning the contacts a bit) -I've got 12V at each of the two headlight fuses on the fuse box, but ONLY when combo switch is on high beams, not when it's off or set to low beams -ground connection between combo and turn signal switches is intact and reads within 1mV of chassis ground -no power at any of the 3 headlight contacts, unless the switch is on high beams, in which case i get 12V at all three
  12. I got sick right before the holiday and then the usual obligations took my time, so I'm just getting back to this today. Unfortunately some complications from my EV conversion have now impacted the headlight issue. Long story short, I left the 12V battery connected over the long break and it drained (because I did not have the DC-DC converter powered on to keep the 12V battery topped up from the high voltage system while I was away). The 12V battery now reads ~350 mV directly across it's terminals. It seems to me that it should not be able to discharge that deeply, but I presume it is now dead and will need to be replaced. The fact that it drained so completely while I was gone also indicates that there is some kind of leak path in the 12V system which I'll need to track down once I've got a fresh battery installed. Maybe this is also the cause of the headlight issue? Not sure that I've articulated it in this thread, but I am converting this Z to fully electric drive, so I have removed extensive systems from the car. In addition to all the obvious (engine, fuel lines, fuel tank, radiator, alternator, etc) I also cut out all the EFI wiring and the ECU. I was careful to make sure that the wiring I removed was only the EFI and ECU system based on the car's wiring diagram, but still that could have introduced complications to the 12V wiring system.
  13. -verified power at fusible links -large white/redstripe wire at the column that goes into the combination switch does NOT have power, but when I plug it in anyway, I get 10V at each of the headlight fuses if the combo switch is in the high beam setting. No power at the headlight fuses when combo switch is off or set to low beams. This... shouldn't be possible without power at the white/red, no?
  14. Thanks for that diagram, worked like a charm! Both turn signals worked just fine with that jumper (even blinked at an appropriate speed with LEDs up front, thanks to the new flasher). Now I will look for hazard switch rebuilding guides/replacements. edit: opened up the switch, cleaned the contacts off, put it back together, and signals now work even with the hazard switch installed. Just need to get to the bottom of the headlight issue now...
  15. Thanks, saw those flashers on Rock Auto but O'Reilly also claims to stock several that are compatible so I'll stop by there today and pick a couple up. They're so cheap that even if they don't work it's nbd. edit: replaced both stock flashers with this one from O-Reilly, no change in behavior. Hazards still work, turn signals (and headlights) still don't.