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About bawfuls

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  1. -unplugging the 6-wire connector for the turn signal switch did not remove the "extra" power from the headlight plug -grounding the red/black wire on the harness side did not enable low beams in the "on" position -grounding the red/white wire on the harness side DID enable lights in the "high beam" position, but when I unplugged a headlight to check the voltage, it's only getting 10V on the high connection. My stock lights come on with this (not super bright), but the new LED lights don't of course because they need 12V As best I can tell, this is how the lights behaved when I first got the car and had it running (limping) on the stock engine. Headlights did not come on in the low beam position, came on but weren't very bright in the high beam position. That makes me feel a little better about having not fucked things up more when I ripped the engine out. So this means... there's some issue with the ground loop connections? Not sure how to diagnose further.
  2. Finally back in the shop with some time to look at this issue again, and it feels like I'm going in circles. I replaced the 12V battery with a fresh one and started the process again. -I've got power at the white/red stripe going into the combo switch on the column now (I checked the connection behind that white plastic harness in the passenger foot-well area as well, it didn't work at first but did after cleaning the contacts a bit) -I've got 12V at each of the two headlight fuses on the fuse box, but ONLY when combo switch is on high beams, not when it's off or set to low beams -ground connection between combo and turn signal switches is intact and reads within 1mV of chassis ground -no power at any of the 3 headlight contacts, unless the switch is on high beams, in which case i get 12V at all three
  3. I got sick right before the holiday and then the usual obligations took my time, so I'm just getting back to this today. Unfortunately some complications from my EV conversion have now impacted the headlight issue. Long story short, I left the 12V battery connected over the long break and it drained (because I did not have the DC-DC converter powered on to keep the 12V battery topped up from the high voltage system while I was away). The 12V battery now reads ~350 mV directly across it's terminals. It seems to me that it should not be able to discharge that deeply, but I presume it is now dead and will need to be replaced. The fact that it drained so completely while I was gone also indicates that there is some kind of leak path in the 12V system which I'll need to track down once I've got a fresh battery installed. Maybe this is also the cause of the headlight issue? Not sure that I've articulated it in this thread, but I am converting this Z to fully electric drive, so I have removed extensive systems from the car. In addition to all the obvious (engine, fuel lines, fuel tank, radiator, alternator, etc) I also cut out all the EFI wiring and the ECU. I was careful to make sure that the wiring I removed was only the EFI and ECU system based on the car's wiring diagram, but still that could have introduced complications to the 12V wiring system.
  4. -verified power at fusible links -large white/redstripe wire at the column that goes into the combination switch does NOT have power, but when I plug it in anyway, I get 10V at each of the headlight fuses if the combo switch is in the high beam setting. No power at the headlight fuses when combo switch is off or set to low beams. This... shouldn't be possible without power at the white/red, no?
  5. Thanks for that diagram, worked like a charm! Both turn signals worked just fine with that jumper (even blinked at an appropriate speed with LEDs up front, thanks to the new flasher). Now I will look for hazard switch rebuilding guides/replacements. edit: opened up the switch, cleaned the contacts off, put it back together, and signals now work even with the hazard switch installed. Just need to get to the bottom of the headlight issue now...
  6. Thanks, saw those flashers on Rock Auto but O'Reilly also claims to stock several that are compatible so I'll stop by there today and pick a couple up. They're so cheap that even if they don't work it's nbd. edit: replaced both stock flashers with this one from O-Reilly, no change in behavior. Hazards still work, turn signals (and headlights) still don't.
  7. I just double checked, and that unmarked black/ground between the headlight and turn signal switches is connected. My turn signals don't work currently either, though the hazards do flash them properly (even with LEDs swapped out up front). New flasher units are cheap, should I start there? Is there a reliable aftermarket flasher unit that will play nice with LED bulbs without the need for load resistors? I also realize now that I should have disassembled and cleaned the hazard switch while the console was out of the car, is that worth doing now? I've read it can interfere with the turn signals if it's worn, even while the hazard function still works.
  8. Nope! Been keeping busy with other things, but it’s time to come back to this now. I was considering replacing the wiring along with the turn signals/flashers/relays if I can’t figure this out. I have not yet researched how to do that though.
  9. Resurrecting this thread as I've come back to the issue again after 6 weeks of other things. So I have verified power at fusible links, fuse box, 4B, etc. I checked power at the headlight connectors themselves, and found something weird: with the light switch on, all 3 contacts at the lights read 12V, even the one that should be ground. Tracing things back on the wiring diagram, I found 12V at the Earth connection on the combo switch. That's E on the combo switch table in the above images. When the switch is in the OFF position, this connection reads no voltage, but when on the second (high beams) position it reads the same 12V as 4B. It still reads no voltage when in the first on (low beams) position, BUT in this position the ground connector at the headlight reads 12V This.... means my combo switch is wired incorrectly or shorting something? I can't find any difference in the ground connections between my refurbished and my old combo switches. (The old one did work intermittently ~7 months ago). What other sources could be causing this ground to see 12V when the light switch is on? I am extremely confused now.
  10. Alright so the new combo switch is here which should make testing easier. I checked without the switch connected and I've got 12V at #2 and #4 (at the steering column). I am also seeing the tail lights come on when the battery is connected but the combo switch is in the OFF position (wtf?). This is the case even with the combo switch completely disconnected. With the new switch connected and turned on, the marker lights come on but the headlights do not, same as before.
  11. I'm not using the switch because mine is broken and the new one hasn't arrived yet. I'm jumping the pins at the connector where the switch plugs in. I have power at the fuse lead that feeds the combo switch connector, but I did not check for power at the connector itself, which seems like an obvious oversight now. Will have to check tomorrow.
  12. bumping this thread with mo' problems In trying to repair my switch, I eventually broke it, so I bit the bullet and ordered a refurb off ebay. In the meantime, I'm trying to test new lights by just jumping the connections in place of the switch. With the ignition at Acc and nothing jumped, I am getting power at the fuse box at the "Power to Combo Switch for Park" point in the image above. If I jump #1 and #2 in the combo switch image, the side marker lights come on, along with turn signals (not flashing obvi) and the tail lights. But no headlights (this is with original headlights installed). I also see no power at the headlight connections in the fuse box (on either side of the fuses) in this condition (the orange and orange/white leads on the top left in that image). tl;dr: when using a jumper to bypass the combo switch, marker lights come on but no headlights and no power at the headlight fuses Any ideas?
  13. I am not sure, it didn't occur to me to try swapping those push rods, in part because I gave my busted old Z booster to Oreilly for a $30 core refund when I bought the Tacoma booster. Chopping it with an angle grinder was pretty easy and quick. The main headache was fitting it into the car, realizing it needed to be chopped, removing it, etc. If I knew from the get go that it needed to be about 1" shorter that would have saved some time and hassle.
  14. I submit an alternative option for a 1" brake master cylinder upgrade on the S30. The late 90's Toyota Tacoma brake booster has the same bolt pattern as the S30 on the firewall side. With some minor filing/grinding, and chopping about an inch off the brake booster input push rod that connects to the pedal, this booster can be installed in an S30. I do not know the exact range of years, but I used one for a 1997 Tacoma, 2WD smaller engine. This is the smaller booster of the era, at 8.7" diameter (still larger than the stock S30 booster, but it fits in the space fine). Oreilly and Autozone generally have this booster in stock, as a remanufacture (~$200). Then you can get a new 1" brake master cylinder (~$75) meant to mate to the Tacoma booster. Again this was in stock at my local Autozone. The new MC will require fresh brake hard lines for the short run from the cylinder to the distribution junction, since the orientation is different. All in all, slightly more expensive than the upgrade in the OP, but parts are newer and should be more reliable. Also by moving to a slightly bigger booster it helps alleviate some of the increased pedal pressure the 1" MC requires.
  15. Picked up both parts and installed them today. A few notes on fitment: -The pushrod that connects to the brake pedal was too long for my 1977, I had to chop the end of it (twice, because I didn't want to chop too much) to get it to fit. -The neck or whatever of the booster didn't *quite* want to fit into the hole in my firewall. It was seizing on the top, so I filed out the edge of the hole there a bit and also the brake booster neck a touch, and everything fit alright. As someone noted earlier, the neck/pushrod isn't directly centered in the four bolts that go through the firewall, but it looks to be located in nearly the same spot as the stock one was anyway. -The brake line connections for this Tacoma master cylinder are located on the side and not the bottom, which means I need to run fresh lines. Thankfully, these are short runs to the junction just below, so it's nbd. A few pictures after install (yes I know I need hose clamps on those vacuum lines between the booster and vacuum pump)