Jump to content
HybridZ

theghosttanker

Members
  • Posts

    113
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About theghosttanker

  • Birthday 01/16/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Niagara Falls, NY

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

theghosttanker's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

  • Week One Done Rare
  • One Month Later Rare
  • One Year In Rare

Recent Badges

10

Reputation

  1. There's a big difference between using an electric motor to keep turbine speed up when there is no load on the motor, and using an electric motor to drive a turbocharger under load. It takes something in the area of 20 or 30 horsepower (provided by the hot side) to maintain boost under load. That's a HUGE electric motor. And battery, too.... but the idea of an electric "anti-lag" system (capacitor driven, maybe?) seems possible but complex and unobtainably expensive. In other words, perfect for F-1!
  2. Don't e-mail them, just order them off their website using PayPal. The person answering e-mails is probably confused because they aren't appearing on the applications page. Mine just arrived today.
  3. just google the correct Tokico part number ("Tokico Illumina BZ3015" is the correct part number for their front struts) and you find several vendors who still have them. I just did this; got a pair of Illumina fronts for 230 plus shipping (Total was 255), they were shipped this morning from Sparktec.com.
  4. These are available for about 230 a pair plus shipping from sparktec......where are you in NY? I'm near Buffalo.
  5. I'm looking for a new or slightly used pair of Illuminas for my 240.
  6. You are gonna have problems around the bottom corners of the windshield and at the joint in the rear pillar where the top is joined. The factory used a lot of lead to smooth these areas out.
  7. check the air gap for the reluctor pickup in the distributor.....too large a gap can make for harder starting
  8. yes loosen it with the wheels on, and the weight of the car on it....then re-tighten. easier if you drive the car up onto ramps first.
  9. if you still have stock rubber suspension bushings, and you tightened the suspension all the way back up while the car was still on the jack, then it will ride too high.You are supposed to tighten the lower control arm bushings (front and rear) while the car's weight (including a passenger) is resting on the suspension. Just try loosening and then re-tightening them.
  10. 460 lift is the limit for stock valve springs and retainers, so if you rebuild with a 490 cam you will need to be aware that you need aftermarket springs.
  11. Wow there is all sorts of misinformation going on here.....where to start? I've seen factory stock cams with red and also white stripes marking them like yours. The lash pads are not what you need to worry about when you change cams; you need to make sure the wipe areas on the rocker arms are reground to eliminate the ridges worn in at the edges of the wipe pattern. Lash pads are only changed if you need thicker or thinner ones to keep the cam wipe pattern centered on the rocker arms when the valve lash is correctly set. The procedure for checking wipe patterns, lash pad thickness, and lash pads must be done properly every time you change cams, rockers, or lash pads. It's a tedious but necessary procedure; anyone who says changing cams on a z is quick and easy is NOT doing it right. Replace your spray bar. Measure the damaged lobes on your cam with calipers and see if the largest diameters (taken from the base to the tip of the lobe) are different from the undamaged ones. If there's no big differences, I would recommend you keep running it as-is with the new spray bar. Since the engine is gonna get replaced soon anyhow, it's hard to justify the work and expense of replacing that cam unless you absolutely have to.
  12. Putting in an electric pump is dangerous unless properly done, and definitely NOT a simple fix for your problem. Take your mechanical pump off, take it apart, and check for a bad diaphragm.Replace if necessary.Do NOT simply install an electric pump that comes on with the key in the "on" position....this is a very dangerous fire hazard.
  13. Bleeder fitting itself may be clogged/defective.I have seen them totally corroded shut, but easily fixed by running a small drill into it.
  14. You don't need to use a torch....stuff the rubber parts with rags soaked in boiling water; this softens it enough to help get it together.
  15. Carbon fiber is sweet looking but would it be possible to get some of these parts done in regular fiberglass as well? Dashboards and consoles in particular! Can you use the same mold?
×
×
  • Create New...