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About theghosttanker

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  • Birthday 01/16/1964

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    Niagara Falls, NY

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  1. theghosttanker

    Insane wastegate alternative

    There's a big difference between using an electric motor to keep turbine speed up when there is no load on the motor, and using an electric motor to drive a turbocharger under load. It takes something in the area of 20 or 30 horsepower (provided by the hot side) to maintain boost under load. That's a HUGE electric motor. And battery, too.... but the idea of an electric "anti-lag" system (capacitor driven, maybe?) seems possible but complex and unobtainably expensive. In other words, perfect for F-1!
  2. theghosttanker

    WTB: tokico struts for a 240Z.

    Don't e-mail them, just order them off their website using PayPal. The person answering e-mails is probably confused because they aren't appearing on the applications page. Mine just arrived today.
  3. theghosttanker

    WTB: tokico struts for a 240Z.

    just google the correct Tokico part number ("Tokico Illumina BZ3015" is the correct part number for their front struts) and you find several vendors who still have them. I just did this; got a pair of Illumina fronts for 230 plus shipping (Total was 255), they were shipped this morning from Sparktec.com.
  4. theghosttanker

    Front Tokico Illuminas for 240Z

    These are available for about 230 a pair plus shipping from sparktec......where are you in NY? I'm near Buffalo.
  5. theghosttanker

    Front Tokico Illuminas for 240Z

    I'm looking for a new or slightly used pair of Illuminas for my 240.
  6. theghosttanker

    bare metal instead of paint?

    You are gonna have problems around the bottom corners of the windshield and at the joint in the rear pillar where the top is joined. The factory used a lot of lead to smooth these areas out.
  7. theghosttanker

    Bob Sharp, MSD,Header ect..

    The racetep header is sold on e-bay for 195 bucks. With that in mind, would you consider 135 shipped?
  8. theghosttanker

    L28 6-1 Headers With o2 Sensor Bung (Square Port)

    are those new headers? If they are new, I'll give you 150 shipped and I WILL follow through
  9. theghosttanker

    240Z Fiberglass Bumpers Front and Rear

    I'll give you 200 for the set, assuming all mounting hardware is there
  10. theghosttanker

    Long cranks to start

    check the air gap for the reluctor pickup in the distributor.....too large a gap can make for harder starting
  11. theghosttanker

    Eibach Lowering springs don't look drop

    yes loosen it with the wheels on, and the weight of the car on it....then re-tighten. easier if you drive the car up onto ramps first.
  12. theghosttanker

    Eibach Lowering springs don't look drop

    if you still have stock rubber suspension bushings, and you tightened the suspension all the way back up while the car was still on the jack, then it will ride too high.You are supposed to tighten the lower control arm bushings (front and rear) while the car's weight (including a passenger) is resting on the suspension. Just try loosening and then re-tightening them.
  13. theghosttanker

    valve clearance issue

    460 lift is the limit for stock valve springs and retainers, so if you rebuild with a 490 cam you will need to be aware that you need aftermarket springs.
  14. theghosttanker

    Camshaft question

    Wow there is all sorts of misinformation going on here.....where to start? I've seen factory stock cams with red and also white stripes marking them like yours. The lash pads are not what you need to worry about when you change cams; you need to make sure the wipe areas on the rocker arms are reground to eliminate the ridges worn in at the edges of the wipe pattern. Lash pads are only changed if you need thicker or thinner ones to keep the cam wipe pattern centered on the rocker arms when the valve lash is correctly set. The procedure for checking wipe patterns, lash pad thickness, and lash pads must be done properly every time you change cams, rockers, or lash pads. It's a tedious but necessary procedure; anyone who says changing cams on a z is quick and easy is NOT doing it right. Replace your spray bar. Measure the damaged lobes on your cam with calipers and see if the largest diameters (taken from the base to the tip of the lobe) are different from the undamaged ones. If there's no big differences, I would recommend you keep running it as-is with the new spray bar. Since the engine is gonna get replaced soon anyhow, it's hard to justify the work and expense of replacing that cam unless you absolutely have to.