theghosttanker

There's a big difference between using an electric motor to keep turbine speed up when there is no load on the motor, and using an electric motor to drive a turbocharger under load. It takes something in the area of 20 or 30 horsepower (provided by the hot side) to maintain boost under load. That's a HUGE electric motor. And battery, too.... but the idea of an electric "anti-lag" system (capacitor driven, maybe?) seems possible but complex and unobtainably expensive. In other words, perfect for F-1!

Don't e-mail them, just order them off their website using PayPal. The person answering e-mails is probably confused because they aren't appearing on the applications page. Mine just arrived today.

just google the correct Tokico part number ("Tokico Illumina BZ3015" is the correct part number for their front struts) and you find several vendors who still have them. I just did this; got a pair of Illumina fronts for 230 plus shipping (Total was 255), they were shipped this morning from Sparktec.com.

These are available for about 230 a pair plus shipping from sparktec......where are you in NY? I'm near Buffalo.

I'm looking for a new or slightly used pair of Illuminas for my 240.

You are gonna have problems around the bottom corners of the windshield and at the joint in the rear pillar where the top is joined. The factory used a lot of lead to smooth these areas out.

check the air gap for the reluctor pickup in the distributor.....too large a gap can make for harder starting

yes loosen it with the wheels on, and the weight of the car on it....then re-tighten. easier if you drive the car up onto ramps first.

if you still have stock rubber suspension bushings, and you tightened the suspension all the way back up while the car was still on the jack, then it will ride too high.You are supposed to tighten the lower control arm bushings (front and rear) while the car's weight (including a passenger) is resting on the suspension. Just try loosening and then re-tightening them.

460 lift is the limit for stock valve springs and retainers, so if you rebuild with a 490 cam you will need to be aware that you need aftermarket springs.

Wow there is all sorts of misinformation going on here.....where to start? I've seen factory stock cams with red and also white stripes marking them like yours. The lash pads are not what you need to worry about when you change cams; you need to make sure the wipe areas on the rocker arms are reground to eliminate the ridges worn in at the edges of the wipe pattern. Lash pads are only changed if you need thicker or thinner ones to keep the cam wipe pattern centered on the rocker arms when the valve lash is correctly set. The procedure for checking wipe patterns, lash pad thickness, and lash pads must be done properly every time you change cams, rockers, or lash pads. It's a tedious but necessary procedure; anyone who says changing cams on a z is quick and easy is NOT doing it right. Replace your spray bar. Measure the damaged lobes on your cam with calipers and see if the largest diameters (taken from the base to the tip of the lobe) are different from the undamaged ones. If there's no big differences, I would recommend you keep running it as-is with the new spray bar. Since the engine is gonna get replaced soon anyhow, it's hard to justify the work and expense of replacing that cam unless you absolutely have to.

Putting in an electric pump is dangerous unless properly done, and definitely NOT a simple fix for your problem. Take your mechanical pump off, take it apart, and check for a bad diaphragm.Replace if necessary.Do NOT simply install an electric pump that comes on with the key in the "on" position....this is a very dangerous fire hazard.

Bleeder fitting itself may be clogged/defective.I have seen them totally corroded shut, but easily fixed by running a small drill into it.

You don't need to use a torch....stuff the rubber parts with rags soaked in boiling water; this softens it enough to help get it together.

Carbon fiber is sweet looking but would it be possible to get some of these parts done in regular fiberglass as well? Dashboards and consoles in particular! Can you use the same mold?

I am about to make my own barbed-fitting fuel rail, and am wondering where you found those fittings....I can easily find brass ones but I want silver colored.

Little weld burn scars? I have one that starts on my chest between my nipple and armpit, and runs around under my armpit to my back. Got it while welding upside down under my truck, went right through a leather cape. I don't really have any burns on my forearms, though....

Little weld burn scars? I have one that starts on my chest between my nipple and armpit, and runs around under my armpit to my back. Got it while welding upside down under my truck, went right through a leather cape. I don't really have any burns on my forearms, though....

Parking over a hole to work on the car is where the term "the pits" comes from...My uncle was nearly burned to death in a pit back in the 60's, when he used to do hillclimb races. My grandpa was all scarred up from that accident, too, from pushing the burning car off the pit to get my uncle out. It's still a common practice in oil change places like Jiffy Lube, but I imagine they have modern fire suppression systems now. Using big old pieces of wood to support the car while you incrementally jack it higher and higher is a good idea. NEVER use concrete or cinder blocks, and NEVER trust a hydraulic jack. Both can suddenly and completely fail without any warning whatsoever.

They are all forged. Early 240 rods used a smaller rod bolt later ones use a 9mm rod bolt, and these are the preferred rods for a stroker build.

as a matter of fact, I DO need help with eye surgery. I've always been a Do-It-Yourselfer, but I like to get a few tips from a pro before I start.My ten-year-old LASIK surgery needs touching up and apparently there is a more modern procedure now that will eliminate the halos. I have a laser pointer and a fresh x-acto knife and a bottle of 65-yo scotch...is there anything else I will need? Sorry if this has been asked before but I did use the search function and didn't find anything.

yeah there is a lead from the tach to the coil. On the coil, you will see that there are two small wires on one terminal post; one of these wires runs just a couple of inches and disappears into the wiring harness; eventually it goes to the tach. I believe you will start right up if you unplug that one.

I need a pair of new or little-used Illumina front struts for a 240.

So here's a related question for ya Tony (and whoever else). I'm building a '73 with a megasquirted 2.8 liter and using a '75 fuel tank.I want to keep the engine compartment as clean as possible. How would you recommend hooking all the stuff up/ I have both a plastic and a metal expansion tank available.

I think it was posted by a member with the screen name 1fastz, or something like that. He was selling machine shop work here for a while, and attempting to build his own 24-valve head, but i haven't seen him for more than a year.