RPMS

Hey, guys. Okay, the engine is in, and now I'm ironing out the bugs. It's a relatively strong performer on the primaries, but when I press the accelerator to open the secondaries, all it gives me is an odd fluttery whistling sound from the carb. It sounds like there's a something caught in the carb throat, or maybe like I'm getting dozens of tiny backfires thorugh the carb? After about two or three seconds the fluttery noise fades, and the car picks up its heels a bit. With this being my first Qjet, I don't know how to interpret what it's doing. What do y'all think?

Depending on your starter, you may not need to hook anything to the spade terminal. My starter had NO spade terminal, so I used a ring terminal on either the S or the R terminal. Don't ask me which it ended up being - I swapped them back and forth a dozen times when I was diagnosing the problem. My original black/yellow wire WOULD NOT WORK for some reason. It was getting proper voltage, but I can only guess that after 30 years, it was not passing enough amperage to trigger the solenoid. Test this by running a test wire from the solenoid trigger to the positive terminal of the battery. If the sterter will turn normally like that but won't do anything with the key, you've narrowed down the problem. If it makes you feel any better, I have my own gremlins to trace. On the way to work today, the "+12v when key is on" side of the electrical system went dead. Oh boy. Fortunately I carry a jumper wire in the car, so I could jump the power relays to the engine cooling fan.

Wow, you don't ask the easy ones, do you? Okay, let's start from the beginning. You say you have no voltage at ANY point in the car? No domelight, no radio, no headlights, NOTHING? If that's the case, I have a few suggestions: 1) Investigate your grounding procedure. According to your diagram, the negative cable from the battery is going straight to the engine and nowhere else. If this is indeed the case, you need to run a cable from the negative terminal of the starter to a body ground. 2) Use your multimeter as a diagnostic tool. Screw down the negative probe against the body, and trace the voltage as far as you can. Start at the positive terminal of the battery itself, then move to the starter terminal. If you've got 12v there, do you have voltage at the dome lamp/parking lights/cigarette lighter fuses? (They should always be hot). 3) Did you disturb or remove the fusable links? I took mine out because the previous owner bastardized them, and they were as ugly as an old shoe. 4) How is your alternator connected? I usually think of the alternator being connected straight to the + terminal of the starter along with the battery lead. 5) I know, I know, but I have to ask - how secure are your connections to the battery? More than once, I've chased electrical gremlins for days before discovering that there was a small amount of corrosion on the battery terminal. 6) If you've got voltage everywhere else, but no cranking, you might have to put a relay on the starter signal. My old wiring couldn't send enough voltage to trigger the solenoid, so I threw a relay in there and now it works just fine. I just got my 260 on the road less than a month ago, so the process is still fresh in my mind. If you need any help, feel free to PM me and I'll get back with you as soon as I can. I know how frustrating it can be to be in your shoes right now.

A propane torch will do the job just fine. Heat the bolt head for about thirty seconds, let it cool a bit, and spray with PB Blaster. If it still won't come right out, try TIGHTENING it a bit. Often bolts will tighten a bit, break the rust bonds, then loosen out with a back-and-forth motion. Tighten a quarter turn, loosen a half. Tighten a quarter, loosen a half, etc. I broke off about a half dozen rusted bolts trying to muscle them out, then I applied the above techniques and things went MUCH more smoothly!

The main problem with doing something like that is the application process. To get the roof chromed would require removing it and bolting it back in place (no welding - discoloration) because nobody has a chrome tank big enough to dip an entire car body in. The second problem would be in finding absolutely perfect body panels. Even brand new body panels usually need to be touched up before they're painted. Can you imagine having to get each and every piece absolutely straight, with not one hint of filler or contamination? I think it would be possible, though. Especially if you had a convertible, where all the visible body parts disconnected from the unibody/frame. Maybe you could do it with an Eastwood Home Chrome Plating Kit, or something!

Terry, I usually don't like racing stripes because the car underneath them usually doesn't support 'em. But YOUR car can wear them with pride! I second the vote for the Toyota blue, oh Deep one. I saw that color on one of the new Lexus convertibles and it just about made me... well, never mind. Let's just say it was REAL pretty.

Hey, Xero! Remember that the larger diameter the tubing is, the peakier the power band will probably be, strictly from a resonance standpoint. What you're looking for in an intake is high air velocity while remaining laminar (non-turbulent) to help atomize the fuel and help shove the charge into the cylinder. This is why intake bells (like the spun aluminum ones on the engine pictured above) are used - they smooth out the airflow and make it easier for the engine to suck in the charge. Individual throttle bodies help by making it easier to have exactly the same air charge in each cylinder. By having a single large intake orifice, you not only reduce your intake velocity dramatically, you go back to having different lengths between your intake valves and your source air. You're virtually guaranteeing an unbalanced condition. The best solution to this issue has proven to be relatively small, relatively short throttle bodies going to each cylinder. Look at how Formula 1 engines, or BMW M-series engines do it. If you're concerned about air volume, remember that each small throttle only has to do 1/8 the work. Mathematically, your 100mm throttle body (7850mm2) is equivalent to eight 35mm throttle bodies (961mm2 each). This gives you total flowthrough and you still have fairly high intake velocity at almost all engine speeds. If anyone catches a flaw or ten in my logic, please feel free to educate me!

I can see why you would have been distracted, Tim. The shoes on the one in the middle don't match the outfit at all, do they? (No, I'm not really THAT ignorant!)

WISELY?!? Next you'll be telling him to put it in the bank like a responsible little boy. This is his BIRTHDAY we're talking about! A six pack of good beer and a decent hooker wouldn't be out of the question' date=' especially now that he's in Houston! And for the record, Terry Oxandale's hood is by far the sexiest, baddest-ass hood on the planet. I would wax his car with my tongue. For those of you who aren't already familiar with this work of art, once Geocities pulls its head out of it's electronic ass you can see it here. Feel free to agree with me.

Thanks, Gabe. I sent you a PM.

Hey guys! Mike in Plano gave me an old R200 that he had sitting in his garage. The gears look spotless. I know this, because it has no rear cover! Surely with all the horsepower that's running around the Chevy V8 board, SOMEONE has blown up their diff and has a spare rear cover laying around! Can anyone help a brotha' out? I'm hoping to get in there next weekend and pull EVERYTHING out, replace any worn bushings, check the driveline angles to find a pesky vibration, relocate my shifter 1/2" backwards to make it easier to put into park, and in general get everything straightened out. It sure would be nice to be be able to replace the stock 180 diff with a stronger 200 while everything is already out of the way! Thanks guys!

Q: What's the difference between a 260 and an onion? A: Nobody cries when you chop up a 260. Benefits of a 240: Lighter weight in the earlier years, nicer bumpers, cleaner tail light design (IMHO), simpler wiring. minimal emissions to hassle with. Benefits of an early 260: Since they often don't run right they're usually cheaper, they can visually mimic the 240, they have more robust wiring harnesses. Still no emissions problems. Benefits of a late 260 or 280: More robust (heavier) body structure, built in A/C, much more common to find, Most already have the heavy duty R200 differential, better sound insulation. As a rule, if you're wanting to build a lean, mean street fighter and hate the though of compromise, build it on a 240. If you want a comfortable, high performance GT car and don't care that your et's will be 1/2 second more in the 1/4 mile, go with the 280. And by all means, buy the JTR book. It is a "must have", unless you want to beat your head against the wall figuring things out yourself. One thing to be aware of is that 1974 was a transition year for Datsun, and the colors of wire in the engine bay aren't always what's in either the factory manual or the JTR book. Other than that, the early 260's are pretty much like 240's with a lot of extra wiring thrown in. Good luck, and have fun. I know I have!

Forest, I agree with you, in part. The manufacturers should be allowed to do what they want, and the population will vote with their feet. I also believe in the concept of full disclosure. Like it or not, car repair is NOT something that most folks believe is brand-specific. If I want to have an ostensibly simple procedure (such as getting my differential replaced) performed, I have always been able to go down the street to my local mechanic and have the work done. The American public EXPECTS this, because this is always what we've had in the past. If you buy a car that CANNOT be adequately serviced anyplace but the dealer, any seller of the car, new or not, is morally obligated to tell you of this fact in advance. Letting the customer know that he will be unable to support his local shop only AFTER the transaction is complete is nothing short of highway robbery. Sure, there are areas of proprietary interest where the manufacturer should not be forced to allow any Johnny-come-lately to stick his nose in. Engine programming is one of those areas. But replacing a tie-rod end? Come on. Tell me there's any intellectual property value in that! If there is true proprietary interest involved, I say let the dealer keep it. But if the dealer is hoarding information to keep the consumer chained to them for overpriced service for the life of the vehicle, that's just plain wrong. Think about it this way: If you bought a $7,000 plasma screen HDTV, brought it home, and only then found out that it would only run on 200 volts DC, wouldn't you feel a bit miffed? Why? Isn't it their right to build TV's to whatever spec they want? Didn't you ASSUME that it would plug into the wall like every other TV you've ever bought? Would you feel right buying expensive 200VDC service from the company that made the TV, or would you immediately start looking for a 200VDC to 110VAC converter? On a rudimentary level, it's the same basic argument. It's unfortunate that the government must stick its nose in because we as a populace can't decide to do the right thing for ourselves. The manufacturer's greed (and that's what it is, when all is said and done) is starting down the wrong path, and the Government must step in and do a little course correction. Isn't it a pity that we can't all play in the sandbox nicely, without Teacher having to get involved?

Tim's right - once you get it wet sanded and buffed, you'll cry with joy. About the drips and crap in the paint - be careful how much crap removal you do. On my driver's side fender, I accidentally got the paint glassy smooth. Now you can see every imperfection in it, no matter how tiny! Leave a little texture to the paint on your daily driver and I think you'll be much happier. To get the crap out of my finish, I first lightly wet sanded an area with 2000 grit. This dulled out the finish and let me see all the imperfections. On the big ones, I took 1500 grit and gently wet sanded over the inclusion in all different directions. Picturing the imperfection at the center of a clock face, you sand first from 12:00 to 6:00, then from 9:00 to 3:00. Then from 1:00 to 7:00, etc. Get the picture? This centered the abrasive action on the imperfection, and minimized the amount of paint removed from the surrounding areas. When the imperfection is ALMOST flat, I switched over to 2000 grit to remove any tiny scratches, then buffed it with 3M Perfect-It II, then with 3M Swirl Remover for dark cars. See for yourself what it looks like. The junk in your paint will come out remarkably quickly. Just remember to use LOTS of water and the finest grit paper that will do the job.

Yeah!!!!! I never said anything, because I'm a firm believer in "to each his own", but I didn't care much for the small lights for all the reasons you listed, Terry. Too little visual break in too much front end! What I would consider absolutely kick-ass, though, is the incorporation of the projection lamps either to the inside of, or underneath the 7" main lights. Remember the previous generation Celica GT? Kinda like that. I applaud your decision, and I'm happy to see you're retaining an important link to the Z ancestry. Your car is absolutely tits-up, and I can't wait to see it in paint. It would look absolutely malicious in midnight pearl blue, you know. Or a deep metallic burgundy. A color that classy on a car as muscular as yours says, "I could kick your ass if I wanted to, but tonight I'm just here to dance with your girlfriend". Or something like that.

Not sure if it's your cup of tea or not, but I think some custom billet fender emblems might be nice. Maybe a 240/Z28, or something. A nice quiet Hirschman power antenna is also nice to have. Beats the heck out of those cheapies that sound like a bunch of bolts in a blender when you turn the power off. Braided hoses? Personally, I'd skip the dainty little JDM mirrors. Everyone I've talked to who has them, no matter how much they like the way they look, hates the way they work. Adjusting them from the driver's seat is obviously an impossibility, and from four feet away, you can't see very much in them. But if it's your cup of tea, feel free. What do you think about custom valve covers? Getting your name milled into them would be interesting. Hey, you've gonna have money burning a hole in your pocket - Does life get any sweeter?

Hey, guys. Mike in Dallas was kind enough to give me the old R200 he had sitting in his garage, but it needs a diff cover. Anyone out there have one they can sell me cheap? Thanks! Scott

It's not that we can't drive, it's that we drive DIFFERENTLY. First off, grab the turn signal stalk firmly and snap it off. You won't be using it. If you do turn on your blinkers, that is a signal to everyone behind you to speed up. You'll also need to learn the "Katy Freeway Dance", where you put on makeup and/or shave (depending on your sex, your heritage, and your preferences) while driving 70mph 10 feet behind the car in front of you. Remember that if you hit someone you'll have to slow down, so for God's sake, be careful. Accidents are caused by people who don't know the rules of the road. Texas' DOT motto is "drive friendly". That's because that redneck in the truck that just cut you off is packing a 12 gauge under the seat, he hasn't had the chance to shoot anything in a week, his wife has PMS, and a boil just sprung up on his ass. SOMETHING is gonna die today, and it might as well be the first person that pisses him off. Your Ranger is small, but adequate. Drive it through the mud twice a week to help it look authentic, and the next time you're in need of tires, buy the largest ones you can find. Have you noticed yet that there are lots of places where 90% of the vehicles parked outside are trucks? It's an interesting demographic. Good luck!

I stand corrected! I know a half dozen guys with E30 M's, and I never noticed the rear window. I guess the 3 just isn't my bag. I wrote the missing rear spoiler off to owner-modification, but you're right - the trunklid is too long. How'd you know so much? You into BMW's too?

...and what makes you say that? Even though the original S14 engine has obviously been replaced by an S38, the body still looks like an e30 M3 to me. Either that, or he's gone to great expense to duplicate the factory steel fender flares. I agree - one day I plan on replacing my aging 535i with a more powerful one. Something along the lines of a supercharged 740iL with a 6-speed gearbox.

You've obviously never drank Old Milwaukee! Shiner Bock is the beer of choice w/ many of my friends who appreciate the finer things in life.

Hey, Joe! Have you ever actually HAD an old school Z up over 100 mph? I guarantee you that unless you're stupid or you've got a VERY special car, you're going to dirty your pants. The same steering geometry and light weight that make the car so much fun going around the twisties make high speed driving unsettling, at best. Certainly don't do it for the first time in a race, when you have something to prove, for God's sake. That said, I have a simlar need for speed. I've had my BMW up to 130, and my bike up slightly past that. The BMW just kinda hunkered down and did a very good imitation of a guided missile. I sure wish the Z had those sort of road manners.

ROFLOL!!!! Damn! You're all pissed off at Texas, and you haven't even experienced what Houston in July is like! Buddy, take your most vivid mental image of Hell , and you'll BEGIN to appreciate the misery of 106 degree heat in 80% humidity. You'd better strap on your hard cup and cowboy up if you expect to survive! As a west-coast native you'll never understand the Texas mindset, so don't even bother. It's something that only comes when you've grown up believing in your heart that you've been blessed with the honor of being raised in the greatest state in the world. Having your brain pickled by the Texas heat doesn't hurt, either. But seriously, I offer one piece of honest, sincere advice - don't go spouting off about Texas' failings when you're within earshot of native Texans, or you might get hurt. Seriously hurt. If they know you're from California, you might get killed. And no, I'm not kidding. There are several places you can go in Houston where, if you say anything like you said in the protective confines of this forum, you'll be assisted to the parking lot by a half dozen Bubbas, where they'll be more than happy to leave you picking your teeth up off the asphalt. Also keep in mind that as a rule, Texans don't bluff. If Bubba tells you he's going to beat your ass, he's not just slinging smack like some big city street punk might. Apologize for your ignorance, buy the man a beer, and inquire about the health of his dog. Texans as a rule are pleasant folks, but never let pass the opportunity to keep your mouth shut. Oh, and about the people - Texans, especially women, react very well to good manners. If you are polite and carefully spoken, most folks will go out of their way to help you. If you bull your way through life, you can expect to hit a lot of brick walls. Remember that Texas intersects the deep south and the bible belt, so God and good manners can get you through just about anything. Good luck! I hope you acclimatize quickly. I like you and don't want you to suffer too much.

Damn, you guys are jaded. Even if it's not the absolutely greatest thing on the planet, I still think it looks pretty sharp!

Don't lose sight of the fact that $500 isn't necessarily the final price, it's what he's ASKING. If you wave $250 under his nose he might chomp on the bait. And if it's as solid underneath as you think, it's definitely worth that much. The way *I* see it, you're going to re-do everything anyway, so what does it matter what condition it's in? A solid, rust-free base is all you need to start. Good Luck!