240Z Turbo
-
Posts
1081 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by 240Z Turbo
-
-
Scottie, I had a similar problem with fuel pressure hitting peak and then dropping off. It turned out to be my fuel filter and you can easily check this. Bypass the filter and see if the problem persists. Also, make sure your pump is seeing a constant 13+V under boost and somehow now dropping off. I would check the filter 1st before getting a new pump. The Pierburg I bought from Bell was about $200 and is rated at 680hp @ 70psi.
-
To give a comparison, the 16G compressor wheel is the exact wheel that came stock in the 280zxt T3. The tip height is slightly different, but the wheel is the same. So, your TDO4 is smaller and the 16G is rated at 505cfm@15psi, but that is also a function of the TDO5 compressor housing.
-
This is something that I am definitely going to do when I graduate. I am here in New Zealand and had the chance to look over an RB26 on an engine stand for quite some time along with the tranny. As Stony said the front diff is not in the ideal position, but I think that is somewhat trivial. If you are going to attempt this swap you had better accept that you are going to be doing alot of custom stuff and changing things at every corner. i don't see it as being impossible to relocate the diff with respect to the engine so that you can position the motor where it needs to be. I have always known the stock cross member would have to be scrapped and if you had the whole front clip you could graft it into the Z. the engine and front suspension has its own subframe that could be bolted to the 240 if properly planned. Anyway, to answer Stony's question. Mount the engine and then mod the pan to move the diff location. You will have to notch the tunnel on the passenger side for the transfer case and do all the other mods. It is a big job, but I think it can be done and you had better have that attitude if you were to attempt the swap.
-
McGuiver could do it with 2 sticks of gum, baking powder, 7 Q-tips and some urine from a bullfrog.
-
Ahh, Walker's old ride. I thought that thing had a 60-1, not particularly a laggy turbo. I have run the NOS ontop the turbo on a 60-1 and 18psi of boost. Just add race gas and you should be ok without doing anything else for a 65shot or so. Believe me, it makes a world of difference. I went 8.0@97 on street tires without a LSD unit with a crappy 2.16 60'.
-
Scottie MIZ, are you running an aftermarker fuel management unit?
-
A typical size for most apps would be 2.25" turbo-intercooler and then 2.5" intercooler to TB. You always want the intercooler to TB as big as if not bigger than the turbo-intercooler piping. My current piping will be 2.5" turbo's-intercooler and 3" from intercooler to TB. The intercooler is also a reservoir which is why you want to the same size if not bigger from intercooer-TB. There is no reason to run a 2.25" pipe to the opening of a TB that is 2.5". You might as well have run 2.5".
-
You are on track with TimZ and myself. We are colaborating on a control system for the tech and have been floating the idea around for several months. However, our main goal is the integration of wideband technology for use with the Tech. Now, if Tim would just get off his....Whoops! Sorry Tim! HEHE!
-
That was not my original thinking, but if you properly port the area around the wastegate hole and possible enlarge it some with a bigger puck, you could probably support 350@wheels with an internal wastegate. It would not be my setup of choice. I used to run A T04E with a 57trim @19psi of boost and had to do some porting around the wastegate hole to eliminate some boost creep. I had no problems after that. I figure that motor was in the 340hp@wheels range.
-
It is not the boost you need to worry about, but the flow. You can run 17psi with the stock internal wastegate and have no problems with creep. It is more a question of HP developed that will dictate the use of an external wastegate. 350hp is no problem for a factory internal wastegate and if you did see some creep you can just do some mild porting around the wastegate hole and it will solve your problems.
-
I believe that diff is actually an R190 unit. I forgot what input shafts are required, but the diff can be run in the Z.
-
BTW, you will see in my timing curve that I drastically take out timing when I hit boost. There are 2 modes of thinking when tuning. Less timing and less fuel or more timing and more fuel. I was speaking with TIMZ and he runs alot more timing than me at low boost, but he also runs more fuel, probably in the 12.5:1 range where I am in the 14:1 range. I will probably opt to add more timing in this area when my motor is finished and add enough fuel so it does not ping trying to keep it in the 13:1 range.
-
I made this JPG file of my timing curve for Ron and thought I would share it. It is roughly dialed in and I am sure it could be further tweaked. I am not recommending this much advance under boost unless you have a decent intercooler and upgraded turbo that is more efficient at higher boost levels. It is moreso intended to give an idea of how to formulate a curve for a turbo setup. All motors will be different, but this is generally a good curve although slightly more aggressive under boost.
-
1 light short of full rich should be about .89V 02. That should be sufficient and somewhat conservative. You should atleast be about 2 lights short of full rich on the gauge. The gauge only reads the O2 voltages and is solely a function of your O2 sensor. You cannot compare it to what someone else sees unless you have the same O2 sensor.
-
Huh? Why do you care if it is hand tightened. Because it is a stud, you gain additional clamping force with the finer thread pitch on the torqueing side. These studs go further into the block than the stock head bolts which alone gives you more ability to gain clamping force.
-
Preloading on the block side to cancel forces does not make sense to me. If you torque the studs in the block, bottoming it out, you exert force on the top side of the stud threads and the bottom side of the block threads. This is the same thing that happens when you torque the nut on the stud. So you have effectively now placed additional stress on the threads. Remember, the amount of threads needed is 1.5xstud diameter or 1.5x10mm=15mm. That means the stud only needs to go into the block 15mm before there are enough threads to adequately hold it. So why the need to preload the studs, just put them into the block as far as they will go hand tight and you have enough threads to hold it. Maybe I am off my rocker and could be wrong in my thinking.
-
Thanks to TimZ for scanning this and sending it to me.
-
The reason I ask about the RB30 crank in the RB26 is because JUN offers a 3.0L kit for the RB26 they say is for 1000-1400hp applicataions.
-
Here is a pic of the pressure port before the turbo. The bottom tube is the pressure port and the top thingy is the EGT probe.
-
Oh lord, another company with their heads up their ass! Well, of the 3 different torque specs ARP told me in 1 conversation, which one do you want to hear? I first asked what was the torque spec with moly lube and was told 60ft-lbs. I then said the last time I called I was told 48ft-lbs and the lady then said, oh yea that is what my catalog says! What the heck. I then proceeded to tell here that Tim's brochure said 35ft-lbs and she then tells me, go with that torque spec. What the hell! I said to her that she had given me 3 different specs within 1 conversation! She thought that was funny and began to laugh. I wish someone would develop a device to where I could shock someone through the phone. I would give her about 10,000 volts! I then ask to be transfered to someone who had a clue about torque specs. The next guy was sorta rude, I guess she gave him the skinny before talking with me. He tells me without a doubt that the spec is 48ft-lbs with moly and 61ft-lbs with oil. I asked him if he is sure and why that is different that what Tim's brochure stated. He said that I must be mistaken and that is what his book says. I did find that ARP only buys the studs and gets the spec's from the actual manufacturer. That is why the lady initially told me 60ft-lbs with moly because the manufacturer was telling them to go higher! What a crappy bunch of folks I spoke with. Can someone else call and let me know what they say?
800.826.3045
-
Man, the torque specs for the ARP head studs are as elusive and the Yetti! I called ARP and was told 48ft-lb with moly lube and 65ft-lbs with oil. I know of people saying to go 80-90ft-lbs, but there is no reason to do that and you weaken the studs. I also snapped a stud off in the block torqueing to 65-70ft-lbs with moly lube. Although ARP said it wasn't possible and I must have torque'd it much much more it snapped off. If you used moly lube then retorque to the specs ARP suggests. There torque numbers are based on the stud sizes from what I was told. I actually have to call them tomorrow because 1 of my studs is slightly bent and I will ask for the specific specs again. I won't be suprised if it has changed from what they last told me. BTW, Tim is correct about studs having a much higher clamping force with less torque. Hell, the pitch on the threads is different so stock torque specs immediately go out the window.
-
I want to help! I know for a fact that a stock t3 can generate 17psi of boost and have seen articles were they were run up in the 26psi range. I think most any turbo can produce alot of boost, but whether it can use it or it has any effeciecy at that level is a different story. When you have problems with boost dropping back off that is usually caused by excessive back pressure. A few years back when I ran the stock downpipe, 2.5" exhaust and chambered muffler I had the same pressure. The exhaust could not physically flow enough and then because the exhaust backpressure built up it caused the boost to lower. The 1st thing I did was remove the chambered muffler and the problem was immediately solved. If you can measure the backpressure that would give you the answer to what I am proposing.
-
Is this true? Can you not take and RB26 motor and use the RB30 crank to stroke it? I understand that you will need to change rods/pistons? Thanks for the info. I will be a future skyline powered Z(AWD)!
-
I am just waiting for my damn head to get this thing together again. It is supposed to be shipped out tomorrow, but I will believe it when I see it. The oval exhaust measures 2-9/16"x4" on the OD. It has an area equivalence to a 3.5" round, hence called the 3.5" oval. I can't wait!
nitrous and turbo
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
I have run a 65 shot ontop of 18psi of boost with no problems. The result is very drastic as far as performance. For a small shot like a 65hp I do not think you will need to jack with the timing, but try to limit boost to about 15psi on pump gas. As with additional boost make sure you do not have any knock and it is good to use your EGT to tell whether you are running lean. I would keep the EGT's in the 1550F-1600F with the NOS and pump gas. I will probably spray on my new TT setup if I am confident it is all dialed in. If you have it kick off at a lower boost level the results are not as noticable in my opinion. The real fun occurs at full boost with the NOS. The funny thing is a small shot can potentially reduce knock because of drastically decreased intake temps, just have to watch for too much cylinder pressure. Oh well, enough rambling!