240Z Turbo
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Posts posted by 240Z Turbo
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Exactly, you would still retain the isolator so you don't have the noise, but would raise the mounting point of the strut top up 1.5". Now to get the spring perch above the tire you would need to get a shorter spring. Scottie GNZ took the 2+2 spring and cut x # of coils off and then moved the spring perch up above the tire. He can now run a 5.5" backspacing. Moving the point at which the strut bolts to the isolator up 1.5" gives you back the stock travel(if car was lowered 1.5") while not having to section the strut tube and also allows me to move the spring perch up above the tire which might not be possible on a sectioned strut tube.
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THREADES=THREADS this is the morons language conversion table
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Strut Turbos, HEHE! Anyway, the only reason I propose this is so I can still have enough strut tube to raise my spring perch above the tire so that I can run a 5.5" backspacing. Here is what I propose. Remove the stock isolator and drill out the hole where the strut currently bolts. I will then machine a sleeve(1.5") with a seat to slide into the isolator from the bottom(through drilled hole) and will stop at the seat and is secured from the top with a nut(OD of sleeve is machined for threades). This will essentially allow for the point at which the strut is bolted to be 1.5" above its current location. YOu will just slide the strut from underneath isolator as usual, but its new bolting point will be 1.5" higher than its current location. I hope this makes sense?
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Have you tried using pipe dope between your PVC connections?
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LOL, you mean you have never turbocharged your strut cartridges? Man, that gives you an extra -50 IQ points! I have since pulled my head out of my ass and my thinking was on track as to what sectioning the strut TUBE will do for you and your suspension travel. For my next endeavor I am planning to turbocharge my B&M shift lever and then turbocharge my seatbelt release mechanism. I will post results soon. Bump stops??? What are those????
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Ok, so suspension setups are not my area of expertise! I have the usual Tokicko blue springs and struts that lowers the car 1.5". Well, my struts seem to last less than 1 year and go to hell. I want to start by modifying the rears. I have read that I am to use the front struts from the 240z in the rear of my 240z. Will this require that I shorten the strut turbo by 2" in the rear? Also, is the philosophy that you are not compressing the strut while the car is just sitting there and this gives you more strut travel? I just need some clarification. I read the VW post below and think I have a good idea.
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That is all dependent on your wastegate. I believe the stock jobber is in the 5-7psi range.
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Hey Scottie, I would do all that fancy data logging of my runs, but I can't find anyone to loan me a supercomputer to keet up with how fast the L28 turbo reacts. Hopefully that software has already let you know you don't stand a chance against the mighty 240z Turbo. I am curious, how does that software graph an ass whoopin'!???
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besides the $30 for the manifold I have about $50 in the thing. That is because I have access to a machine shop and did all the machining on the thing. I would have done a symetrical setup if space had permitted, but it did not. I received some good information about designs used on the skyline drag cars and followed pics of how they were doing it. in angling the tb towards the #2 and #3 runners, those guys claim to have netted a 60hp increase from that alone. I suppose that having the tb shoot straight in can possibly cause a venturi affect on the 1st 2 runners. Anything will most likely be better than the stock port matched 75 intake I currently use. I suspect I can gain 30-40hp with the manifold swap atleast. Thanks for the comments, it is impressive in real life and I am excited to add it with my new 720cc injectors and then slap it on the dyno. I think 20psi should new atleast 425 rwhp. Later!
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you can view the remaining pics at <http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard> under "Car Pics."
<IMG SRC=http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/intake/intakefront.jpg>
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I run all braided lines and have no noise as you describe. Does this happen when you kick on the pump and the car is not running, just for when you are pressurizing the system? My fans use to trigger my ignition as I described and it would fire all the injectors causing it to make a loud pulsing sound. Do you batch fire all of your injectors? You might try to alternate the injector firing and pair them up or run sequential to see if that helps. You would potentially pressurize the system and then your 6 big squirters suddenly open up relieving the pressure. Is the fuel pump run off of its own relay and not on the same power as the injectors?
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all the rx7 stuff works from 86 and on, just make sure you know what years are high and low impedance. I just got new 720cc injectors for my car and they are the same style as come on Honda's and such. You can check out pics of my new fuel rail on my sight under pics. http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard
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Does your ignition fire off of your front pulley(direct crank fire setup)? Also, do you run an electric fan? If yes to all of the above, the fan may trigger the ignition setup causing the injectors to fire. That is about the only thing I can think that will cause your fuel system to pulse.
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I have one in my car and it whips on on Scottie GNZs all day long! http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard
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I think the turbo you stated, but run the 60-1 wheel insted of the Super-H wheel. Probably use the .67 a/r and put it into the to4b housing.
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Morgan, you ask questions but do not listen to the answers. You posted about this pump and the concern over fittings. I responded and said that Corky machined me an aluminum Earl fitting for the metric threads. One side is a 3/8 NPT and the other is a -6 male JIC end. They machined the 3/8 end for the metric threads and you just use it with the copper crush washer. Not a big deal and was an extra $8.
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Actually, it comes with several outlet fittings for different uses. You have the option of a banjo type filling or some other misc. crap. The actual threads on the pump are a metric female straight thread that is sealed with a copper washer when the proper fitting is installed. Bell machined an Earl fitting to accept the metric thread and used a male -6 JIC fitting on the other side. I ran a short piece of -6 and then bumped it up to -8.
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Just don't look at yourself in the mirror and you will remain happy with yourself
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crap, this was for the post below, not as a stand alone!
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screw the boost @ 30% redline if he is saying "full boost," which is hard to imagine. Just state the power you want to make and a turbo setup can be proposed to you. You can do wonders with the standard t3 turbine housing. You can shove a dang Ptrim wheel in that badboy if you wanted to! You can probably generate 250-275hp@wheels with the stock t3 turbine housing and an upgraded wheel. If you want strictly boltup then I would suggest a t3/tO4B turbo. If you don't mind some lag, I am quite fond of the 60-1 wheel and perhaps run an Otrim turbine wheel. I guess you could say that is a full t4 turbo, but using the t3 turbine housing to make boltup easy. You could use the TC3 or stage V turbine wheels, but I am not sure if they can be mated to the stock t3 turbine housing. I think it require the use of another t3 turbine housing that uses a different backplate for the downpipe, so you would need to fab your own downpipe. Let us know my friend!
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From all the info I received this should be correct as far as the part # you gave. Python injection crossed the part # and gave me the new #. After calling Carquest and verifying that the new crossed number was for the N/A RX-7. I then called some reputable sources, RX7.com and RC Engineering, and they both said the same thing about injector sizes. The 88 n/a uses 440cc and the 88turbo uses 550cc. Now from 86-88 and 89-92 the turbo models have different injectors. I believe the years are correct, I would have to reverify. The difference in the part #'s is because on is low impedance and the other is high impedance. Carquest lists the injectors for $55per. Here is something cool. The 93+ RX7 turbo used an 850cc secondary injector which Python says has the same retail price as the 550cc. Talk about some serious injector. I can get all the part #'s and info is anyone is interested. Please do your own research before buying any of these injectors.
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Here is my new wastegate setup. And to answer the question about mild steel and cast iron welding. Do not use any thin wall mild steel tubing as it will not live up to the heat requirements as I quickly learned with my old pathetic setup as shown above. I have sinced used a schedule 30 mild steel 90s to fab my new setup. These are thick enough and can withstand the heat. You must thoroughly clean the manifold and as stated it must be preheated and then welded with nickel rod while constantly peening the weld so it doesn't crack. It then needs to be cooled in sand or kitty liter overnight. I would recommend cleaning any cat poop from the liter before going this route. HEHE! As for the TEP setup, that will not work with the bigger compressor housing such as the T04E and bigger. They used a T04B compressor housing on that 275hp@wheel car. Oh yea, here is the link to my pics http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/wgate/
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I ran that combo and it is a real power maker. Even with a clipped P-trim it made 8-9psi of boost by 3Krpm. Walker was able to generate over 350hp@wheels with the turbo he proposes. The bigger turbos generally have more lag, but make up for it in brute power. I just upgraded my turbine a/r from .58 to .81 on my turbo and it spins the tires @45mph with 15psi of boost. I have a T64 w/a clipped P-trim turbine wheel. Don't kid yourself with these smaller wheels for L applications, they just don't make the power on most street motors. Use the 60-1 that Walker has suggested and you should be able to make full boost by 3200rpm or so.
Alternative to sectioning strut TURBOs
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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OK, you all are missing something about the spring I was going to use. I proposed to use the 2+2 spring which has a different spacing between windings. If only Scottie GNZ would chime in on this one. It allows you to cut the coils to make an effectively shorter spring, but will retain enough spacing between windings to that it will not bind. The only thing I wonder about is whether raising the point at which the strut bolts will affect the point at which the bump stops contact. By the way, the picture above is exactly what I was proposing. Also, no matter what spring combo is used I will have to raise the spring perch up so that it can clear a 26x11.5" slick.