240Z Turbo

screw the boost @ 30% redline if he is saying "full boost," which is hard to imagine. Just state the power you want to make and a turbo setup can be proposed to you. You can do wonders with the standard t3 turbine housing. You can shove a dang Ptrim wheel in that badboy if you wanted to! You can probably generate 250-275hp@wheels with the stock t3 turbine housing and an upgraded wheel. If you want strictly boltup then I would suggest a t3/tO4B turbo. If you don't mind some lag, I am quite fond of the 60-1 wheel and perhaps run an Otrim turbine wheel. I guess you could say that is a full t4 turbo, but using the t3 turbine housing to make boltup easy. You could use the TC3 or stage V turbine wheels, but I am not sure if they can be mated to the stock t3 turbine housing. I think it require the use of another t3 turbine housing that uses a different backplate for the downpipe, so you would need to fab your own downpipe. Let us know my friend!

From all the info I received this should be correct as far as the part # you gave. Python injection crossed the part # and gave me the new #. After calling Carquest and verifying that the new crossed number was for the N/A RX-7. I then called some reputable sources, RX7.com and RC Engineering, and they both said the same thing about injector sizes. The 88 n/a uses 440cc and the 88turbo uses 550cc. Now from 86-88 and 89-92 the turbo models have different injectors. I believe the years are correct, I would have to reverify. The difference in the part #'s is because on is low impedance and the other is high impedance. Carquest lists the injectors for $55per. Here is something cool. The 93+ RX7 turbo used an 850cc secondary injector which Python says has the same retail price as the 550cc. Talk about some serious injector. I can get all the part #'s and info is anyone is interested. Please do your own research before buying any of these injectors.

Here is my new wastegate setup. And to answer the question about mild steel and cast iron welding. Do not use any thin wall mild steel tubing as it will not live up to the heat requirements as I quickly learned with my old pathetic setup as shown above. I have sinced used a schedule 30 mild steel 90s to fab my new setup. These are thick enough and can withstand the heat. You must thoroughly clean the manifold and as stated it must be preheated and then welded with nickel rod while constantly peening the weld so it doesn't crack. It then needs to be cooled in sand or kitty liter overnight. I would recommend cleaning any cat poop from the liter before going this route. HEHE! As for the TEP setup, that will not work with the bigger compressor housing such as the T04E and bigger. They used a T04B compressor housing on that 275hp@wheel car. Oh yea, here is the link to my pics http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/wgate/

I ran that combo and it is a real power maker. Even with a clipped P-trim it made 8-9psi of boost by 3Krpm. Walker was able to generate over 350hp@wheels with the turbo he proposes. The bigger turbos generally have more lag, but make up for it in brute power. I just upgraded my turbine a/r from .58 to .81 on my turbo and it spins the tires @45mph with 15psi of boost. I have a T64 w/a clipped P-trim turbine wheel. Don't kid yourself with these smaller wheels for L applications, they just don't make the power on most street motors. Use the 60-1 that Walker has suggested and you should be able to make full boost by 3200rpm or so.