240Z Turbo

I can answer that! I do not think he gained much advantage in the effeciency dept with lowering intake temps, but did lose the massive pressure drop. Before he saw about 8psi drop and now see less than 2psi. This gets him into the effeciency range of the turbo better because he is not having to run such a high pressure ratio to see 21psi at the TB. The car also went 7.09@99mph in the 1/8 since the swap.

Chase, the inlet is 2.5" and the outlet is 3". My TB is a 70mm unit and the inlet is approximately 3" No reason to run 2.5" pipe to a 3" opening on a TB. I am only interested in all out flow and because of my stall I skip all the low end BS. The intercooler will sit front and center so no ducting is needed. I will place a 3" lip around the core itself to isolate all air coming into the core so it cannot escape. It is said to improve the effeciency about 5%. Because I run the inlet tube through the wall of the engine compartment, I have extra room to run the filter up front as I did on my old setup.

This is the crankshaft skinny from what I know. The very 1st production year of the 240z used a crankshaft that was not fully counterbalanced. This lead to cranks snapping and prematurely wearing components. This problem was immediately identified and corrected with the later years and as such, all other cranks are fully counterbalanced.

For some reason I really like that setup! Too bad my cars have almost never had A/C! DOH!

There was an articly of a twin-turbocharged dually that used the AC system to cool the intake charge to the TB. It allowed the truck to maintain about 70deg charge temps while making a full run in the desert. The complexity makes it unattractive, but the benefits most likely exist. However, if you were showing bang for the buck it is probably not worth the effort. With a big enough reservoir an air-water setup will outdo an air-air setup for the street as far as cooling goes, but you do have the added complexity of the system and the additional weight. A properly sized air-air will work very well even in the summer months. If you are looking for #'s, I think you can probably maintain intake temps in the 100-110F range with an air-water on the street without using ice. A comperable air-air setup will probably yield atleast 10-20F higher intake temps. This is only off the top of my head from what I remember seeing. Anyway, the debate goes! Here is the pic of the supposed air-water cores Scottie and I purchased!

Well said, the HKS comes in 1mm and 2mm and I have used all 3 combinations, 1mm HKS, 2mm HKS and O-ring block w/ stock head gasket. At this point in time the HKS gaskets are getting outrageously priced as they are a discontinued item w/ HKS. It will probably be cheaper in the long run going with the stock jobber and O-ring. My setup uses SS wire that is actually from a piano, C sharp I believe! HEHE! It crushes into the metal liner of the gasket around each cylinder and sticks out of the block about .010"-.015". The only advantage I see outright is that the stock gasket should better seal around water and oil passages when compared to the HKS jobber. Although I personally never had problems I know of people who had problems sealing these areas. The advantage of the HKS gasket is that it requires no O-ringing and it can be reused several times. I like the O-ring know that I have it done and stock head gaskets from Nissan can be had for about $35 from Courtesy Nissan!

I have done it before and they are threaded. I had to remove mine to put on longer ones when I used to run the t3/T04E and I had to make a spacer between the manifold and turbo. This required that I used longer studs. Anyway, I soaked them with penetrating oil and use some Massive Vice grips and worked them free. Try tightening them 1st to break them loose and then back them out. Don't give up, this is man vs Bolt....Who will win!

yes, I bought the cores for about $100 per core and then fab'd the tanks myself and had it all welded. Hey it is more than just a piece of metal, it is an expression of art! ya right!

Tim has a point, but I always assume that if you are buying an aftermarket system you are smart enough to know how to use it. I had no experience when I bought my Tech about 4 years ago, but I got it running. My philosophy is to struggle through it yourself so you have a better understanding of your setup and system and you will better appreciate what you have. Feel free to send me an e-mail or call if you decide to set up the system yourself. Figuring out the ignition is probably the most difficult part. Everything else is butter, except the tuning...it sucks on the Haltech.

there are no simulated 1/4 times on the dyno. no one is gonna let you slam the gears on their dyno. Most people make runs in 3rd or 4th gear so they don't spin the tires. 4th gear pulls will usually net the most wheel hp because direct drive gives the least amount of drivetrain loss.

Ron, I personnaly would not touch the bearing surfaces. They are specially preparred surfaces that should not be jacked with. If you are having clearance problems with the thrust bearing then you need to send it back and get the correct one. Don't get in a rush to slap this motor together or you might regret it. If you must, take the crank to a machine shop and have them do some measurements on the crank to determine if there is a problem. You should have some clearance in the thrust bearing for the crank or you will potentially wear out the thrust surface on the bearing.

Keep the bore size down so you don't get the cylinder walls too thin. A proper setup will yield enough hp without searching for that extra .1L. From your e-mail message I was not sure if you were using the LD28 crank or L28 crank. My crank is actually an L28 crank that was stroked to 84mm by welding and then off-set grinding. The 3.0L JE pistons are no secret and I will call Jim @ sunbelt to get some specs for you.

$800 to install a Haltech. Do you get the crack pipe once they finish smoking it? It is not rocket science and you should just follow the instructions. I will say this, even with my knowledge of tuning FI turbo systems using the Haltech is much more difficult.

You know what? I don't have a clue how this thing will react, but I think I will be happy. I am as much in the dark as most are, but have gained some knowledge in this area. The 8 degrees duration should be a 500rpm improvement for peak power over TimZs cam. The lobe centers are the overlap and by going from 109-110.5 lobe centers I have decreased the valve overlap 2 degrees on this cam. Only time will tell.

Hey Ross, your post made me feel drunk after I read it.

After painful research in the area of cam selection for a turbo L motor I have finalized my decision. Man, talk about both ends of the spectrum on what is recommended to be run. I have to admit I am no expert in this area and without personally seeing what works I can only go by what other say. Anyway, here it is: .488" lift @ valve 230 duration @ .050" valve lift 110.5 lobe centers This is basically the 155 grind from Web Cams, but I had then push the lobe center further apart. Ultimately I would probably like a cam with lift in the .510" range for my particular setup, but this is a good starting point. It is a slight step up from TimZ's cam, Isky Stage I, that has the following specs: .474" lift @ valve 222 duration @ .050" valve lift 109 degree lobe centers If this cam works well I will probably have Crower make me an identical cam, but with the .510" lift.

I could tell you, but then I would probably have to kill ya! HEHE! Actually with the lower fuel pressure the injectors are equivalent to about 68# and were seeing 76% duty cycle. What turbo do I run? As of yesterday, the question should be...what size TURBOS to you run?

HEHE, I win...I run 70# injectors!

UUHHHH, HuHu....Stony said Tool! Good question my friend and the answer is.....a wide band O2 sensor. Well, short of that and to save yourself some cash you can use a digital voltmeter. The EGT will be good for full boost adjustment/fine tuning of fuel and can be used to adjust the timing under low load cruising. The afr meter or voltmeter is good to initially adjust fuel under boost and for your cruising. The Halmeter is great because the 30LED display gives good resolution. An awesome tuning tool that I recently have taken full advantage of is the knock sensor. The Electromotive uses this and I datalog and record any knock I see and make adjustments accordingly. Anyway, I would get the Halmeter and an EGT at the minimal to get any good results by street tuning. Suprisingly, you can get alot accomplished without the dyno!

Scottie, it looks good. 1 Question, is that thing mounted crooked or is that an illusion? Anyway, hurry up and run that thing so I can hear what kind of pressure drop you are now experiencing. By the way, you work pretty damn fast in getting that thing mounted. Your setup is very simple and because your piping is all 1 piece I cannot see that you would have had a leak of some sort from your last setup. It looks good and I honestly hope you see results using it. If anything take it out on the street and record the pressure drop.

Man SleeperZ, well said! He hit the nail on the head. Because you do not know the temperature differential putting it before the turbo is the only reliable place to take a measurement. I think the optimal place to put the sensor is 2-3" off the port as this can be reference temperature for most all piston-turbo applications. From all I have gathered 900C is the max and I have personally seen higher. You might not necessarily see detonation at higher temps, but you will begin to wear components. My turbo showed slight signs of heat on the turbine wheel tips and if this is a prolonged thing it can possible cause things to melt. I try to keep the EGTs below 1625-1650(900C) at the top of 3rd gear(4th on manual). The only downside is a reduced thermocouple lifespan.

How about alot of fun trying to research the selection of a turbo cam for the L motor. I find the best place to start is to see who is running what and what kind of power are they making. I have seen people generate some good hp #'s using the stock cams, but it is usually peaky and then falls back off. I think one of the big kids on the block is ole TimZ with his 400+++hp@wheels monster. He is running the stage I Isky cam that is .475" lift with 222dur@.050. The cam peaks power at 5700-5800 rpm and holds good power until 6600 or so. I have been shopping for a new cam and had decided on the same cam for my car, until my Buddy Walker told me to call back and talk with Laurie @ Web Cams. Although Isky was very helpful, they did not have a cam that was a small step up from the Stage I jobber. Anyway, I called Web and Laurie was very helpful in explaining what I should look for based on her experience and the results TimZ was obtaining. For every 10 degrees duration you add you gain about 500-700rpm in the upper powerband. Web's 155 cam has .488" lift with 230dur@.050. This cam should outflow the Stage I cam and give about 400-500 rpm on the topend over the Stage I Isky. She actually suggested I run the 155a on the intake and the 155 grind on the exhaust. Both of these cams have .488" lift and 109deg lob seperation. I have not decided whether I will just do the straight up 155 or the hybrid 155a(intake)/155(exhaust). Giving a shorter exhaust duration. Here is the link if you are interested. http://www.webcaminc.com/datsun.html#2 Anyway, AEM suggested the cam to TimZ way back when(Tim is very old) and they had great success making power with it and for most applications it should be suitable. I will let you know how my cam turns out when it is installed next week. Any input is appreciated.

Huh, I didn't even mention your name or make any references to you in my post. If you feel that you have something to prove then that is a different story. The maps are not there for show, they are what they are. Now, I have no doubt that some motors make more power than others with the same turbo and same boost levels, but when you start getting #'s that just don't make sense then one has to step in and say, "be careful!" My favorite article was the AWD turbo Celica in Sport Compact that made something like 450-500hp @wheels and then ran a 13.3. Yea, ok that makes alot of sense! I would say that 8 of 10 articles are full of crap about their claims. Hell, my buddy Marcus had his Turbo Integra featured in Super Street and Turbo Mag and we had a good chuckle about what was printed as far as the cars performance. Most of the time it is HYPE! Anyway, if I don't agree with what you have to say or my opinion is different you don't have to feel insulted as before and start making a fuss. I am not in competition with you and any contribution that can shed some light onto the subject of turbocharging the L is welcome. Now give me a kiss so we can make up. HEHE!