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Cannonball89

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About Cannonball89

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  • Birthday 05/03/1989

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    Male
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    Maryland

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  1. Thanks for the responses guys. I am using K&N HP3001 oil filters which according to their website have a bypass valve.
  2. So the last time I changed my oil in my L28ET (F54 block) I managed to mess up the threads on the oil filter bung. I called Motorsport Auto to order a new one, and the gentleman I talked to recommended I also get a new pressure relief valve. It was only $6 so I did, even though I didn't recall their being one on my engine, and I had actually never heard of this part before. Now when I was changing my oil this afternoon, I was going to install the new pressure relief valve, and discovered that my block actually has what appears to be a metal plug installed where the valve should be. I che
  3. Hi Guys and Girls, Just looked at my post history and it looks like 2013 was the last time I have given you all any updates on the 240z Turbo. The truth is, not a whole lot happened until this summer. 2013 was my senior year in college, and immediately after that I moved to Florida for about a year and half, the 240z had to stay in Maryland though. I came back to Maryland in 2015, and drove my car some, but was bugged by what seemed to be fuel delivery issues. I have been busy with my recently found career as well as other projects and had to leave the Datsun on the back burner for a
  4. Ok, according to MSD's website, the specs for the Blaster 2, model 8200 are: Primary Resistance: 0.7 OHMs Secondary Resistance: 4.5K OHMs According to my multimeter, my coil registers at: Primary Resistance: 1.3 OHMs Secondary Resistance: 4.8K OHMs So, I think it is pretty safe to say that we have found a winner? Primary winding resistance being almost double what it should be is most likely responsible for a weak spark that makes the car fall on its face I would say, correct? Thanks all you guys, sometimes it just takes more than one brain to think through al
  5. Thanks for the suggestions ill check that stuff out my next day off which will probably be wednesday.
  6. I am using an MSD Blaster 2 coil and I am using a stock 280ZX Turbo dizzy and CAS. So basically it just has six notches that the computer counts. I am not running sequential injection, just alternating bank fire so that set up is adequate. I don't think that any noise is getting into the signal, the trigger log looked pretty solid when I checked it. And it doesn't seem to correspond to any specific cells in my maps, it just seems to be whenever the engine is under load. I haven't noticed any loose vacuum lines either. If the distributor drive gear had somehow jumped out of place, my timi
  7. Hi guys, it's been a while since I've been on here. I have been busy with work and school, but I have been enjoying my turbo swap 240z for the past several years with Megasquirt with no issues whatsoever until recently. I know this thread could probably go under the Troubleshooting forum, but I since my car is running MS3 I thought it fit better here. My problem started about a month ago. I was driving it with my buddy on a hot day and it was running great, then I stopped to drop him off and turned the engine off. When I restarted it about 2 minutes later, I noticed as soon as I pulled
  8. I did some more messing with my AE today. I changed the MAP averaging lag factor from 50 to 90, then set my AE to 100% MAP based, and it still shoots lean for a split second then goes rich. I then changed TPS and RPM averaging lag factors from 50 to 90, and tried changing the AE to 100% TPS based, and then a blended AE, but no matter what I do the AFR will still shoot lean momentarily causing a slight hesitation. So I'm at a loss, my car is still drivable and runs great, but the AE hesitation is just a slight nuisance that I can't make go away. Me and 2s2mad are in the same boat, at a l
  9. Tuning accell enrich has been one of the most challenging things for me too. Ive gotten it pretty good by messing around with it for a long time, but its still not as crisp as it was blipping the throttle when carburetted. I am running a blended map/tps, but my tps signal is noisy as hell. I am also suspecting that my map sensor lag time is too high. It responds fine to rapiddly rising boost, but that instantaneous transistion from vacuum to positive pressure seems to cause a hiccup. Ive read a lot about accell enrich, but most of that is with older firmwares. Almost everyone ive talked
  10. Your warmup enrichment wont turn off unless the taper% cell for 160 degrees is set to zero. After you do that, open your VE table and scale all of your cells by whatever percent your 160 degree warmup cell was set to. The dropping out at high RPM could be a coil dwell issue. I had trouble with that. Make sure that max dwell is set to at least twice what your max spark duration setting is. This is assuming that you have a single coil. If not, then the dwell may be set with different parameters but may still be the problem. Also make sure your plugs are gapped tightly. .025 works fo
  11. Yea I watched your video on the MS section but didn't comment because I'm not sure if your problem is related to the slop in your distributor or not. I know I have some slop in my distributor too, if I take the cap off and wiggle the rotor it has some deflection, but really I don't think mine is that much different than yours. I'm pretty sure that if I had enough slop to cause +/- 8-12 degrees timing change, that I would have blown my motor up by now. I mean at 21PSI of boost (the max I was running last year) MS was commanding 18 degrees of advance. If that timing had been able to chang
  12. Are you looking at the actual spark advance in Tunerstudio, and not just looking at where it should be according to your table? I ask because there are ways to advance/retard timing based on IAT or CLT temperature or afterstart conditions. I'm not sure if it matters, but your trigger angle is high. Mine is set to 59.5, which is almost a whole revolution of the dizzy back from where yours is set. Granted you have a different trigger wheel than the stock one I am using. I've also heard of the damper/crank pulley slipping as the rubber ages, which can cause your timing marks to move,
  13. I wasn't able to talk to him until this morning, but he said that it the slip yoke on my 280zx driveshaft isn't machined with a place for the Circlips to sit, so I'm ordering a new slip yoke. It's part number 1203-26S from PTI. In the future I'm going to have a driveshaft made with 1310 U-Joints, I think I know where to get all the parts I need. I will start a thread detailing that when it starts to happen.
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