Zetsaz

Rest of your suspension can stay stock. Keep rubber rubber bushings on the tc rods or replace them with aftermarket. Stock runs the risk of breaking with the stiffness of poly bushings. Otherwise most everything else can go to poly bushings without issues

If you're upgrading to EFI you can look at 280z tanks up to '76 as well. It used to be a common upgrade for those that didn't want a fuel cell. Nearly identical dimensions, just slightly different lengths on the fuel tank straps, and slightly more baffling (though not much to be honest if you've seen one cut open) I'll second ZCarSource for original and hard to find parts, though they're definitely quite expensive and I'd check ebay and facebook pages before going to them.

Z Car Depot has been very good to me and has decent prices in general. Though for general wear and tear things it'd be easier and cheaper to find them at your local auto store or on rockauto unless you really want something OEM that your dealer doesn't have available.

Exactly what I've always wanted haha. Thanks for the addition.

Haha, I don't mean to say the other post is a bad dream build. I'm just thinking dream Datsun build. It's just so far out there from a Datsun build in my mind is all I'm saying.

All of these options look hideous. For my money I'd get the Dapper LED 7s https://www.dapperlighting.com/products/seven

I was going to say, he basically wants Tyler Powell's car or Mark Rolston's, but somehow even less Datsun DNA

So what you're saying is you don't want a datsun at all, and you just want to chop the vin off an early car and weld it into a custom chassis?

-Early car (though you know I'm perfectly happy with my early 280) -Stroker L28, with ITBs, or the Datsunworks head ITBs, or ITB Turbo L series (I'm a music teacher... I care about sound I guess haha) -Interior basically identical to the tan/brown interior on the MZR Roadsports builds -Exterior with only subtle mods to help the lackluster aero these cars have -Incognito paint matched carbon fiber panels. -Suspension would really be basically identical to what I have now, but with Apex Engineered parts -Restored vintage Japanese wheels like SSRs or Epsilon mesh

I'll be running a pretty similar setup down the road so it's really nice to see this info!

Looooong, overdue progress post. @seattlejester came by towards the end of the summer/early fall and showed me some tricks. Used the seats as a jig for the mounts and had some simple tabs off the ends at the correct angle so I wouldn't have to mess with the stock sliders. Initially I had "finished" the new mounts out of 1 inch tubing. Then I realized how much of a pain it was to get two separate pieces of square tubing to seat correctly, with the correct angles/distances for the seats. So I put it off for a bit but committed to putting more tubing along the rails running front to back. Made them easier to set into the car and tack in. Tacked them in forever ago only to finally get back to it today after some sunshine motivated me to pick up the slack and.... the free moving sliders were installed backwards after being reupholstered. It was rubbing against the nice new material (UNACCEPTABLE) but flipping it around made the bolt holes no longer line up. Broke the tack welds and redid the tabs, and now I've FINALLY welded in the seat mounts. Far from perfect, and took much longer than expected, but they're very sturdy and I'm happy with it for now. Some of my welds are very clearly in the "booger weld" category, but when I get them good they're looking REALLY good. Or at least not terrible for someone with like 2 hours of welding experience haha. Will upload more pics tomorrow when it's light out. Finished them up as I was losing daylight.

Honestly I did the same calculations, and realized that to match the power to weight of my G37S (which I barely even rev up to redline or even make the most of the powerband on, I'd only need about 190-195whp. Perfectly doable NA even if it is easier with turbo. We've definitely been spoiled by the crazy power modern engines can make.

Sorry, my explanation was more geared towards the average car. that being said, the really short and stiff spring will still create similar problems, and if you go with softer spring rates if they have that option, you'll likely still bottom out if you hit some bad bumps/pot holes. GC would be a better option in your case if you really want to save the money. That being said, the pricing is almost a wash if you decide to buy adjustable shocks. The stock dampers really wont' do well with increased spring rates and likely won't last long even on strictly street use.

The cosmos look like just a cheap sleeve that gets placed on top of the stock spring perches with some minor height adjustability. For a daily driver, any sort of lowering especially the sort you'll need to do on the front end is going to reduce your shock travel significantly. I had considered T3 and other "bolt in" or cheaper options that involved more work, but the full threaded body on the BC coilovers allowing full suspension travel was too much to pass up. For a daily driver I'd definitely recommend eating the cost. It'll be better in the long run.

311s.org seems to have started a compromise between the two. They have a main page that takes you to the forum as well as a wiki with some of the most common/useful questions and info. They don't seem to have followed through and it looks dated, but I'm sure something like that would work. Letting people register/login through facebook here was a step in the right direction I think, but even that hasn't worked very well since last I checked.