Zetsaz

Yeah, the RB can go to 3.4 but MZR seems pretty keen on keeping NA for the purist perspective on past builds. I follow Peter McDonnell and he's also pointed out that it's probably easier to build a high HP L Series than an RB. Considering his builds, I wouldn't doubt it. There's always the chance they're sticking with the L series and using diesel blocks like Rebello has done. Was just curious!

@Derek out of curiousity, is one of your buyers MZR Roadsports in the UK? Was looking more at their 50th anniversary build since they recently did the full reveal of the first one they built. Went to their site and noticed their "Evolution" package comes with a DOHC head. Is that yours? I know the OS Giken head is an option for those high dollar builds, but I can't imagine them going with it when there's a better cost option around.

Info you need is on this handy chart in the link. It's available elsewhere I think but this was the first place I found it. Short answer - yes. Long answer - Even without a vin you can tell by some structural changes that are easily noticeable. Top seatbell mounting point changed after '75 just after the first year of the 280, earlier cars had it mounted to the B pillars, later cars had it mounted on the strut towers, the taillights changed to the later style for the 260z, the 240z had a shorter radiater and accompanying shorter (not as low to the ground) lower radiator support. late

They're just rota rkr wheels

I'll check it out. Was kind of just planning on throwing it in the back of my Infiniti haha. I travel very light. At worst I think I'd just have to take the bellhousing off and carry it in the back seat on a tarp and some padding. Won't even necessarily need the bellhousing but I can give it to a friend who had his damaged from a bad road that probably fractured in the intense heat up there last week. If he doesn't want it I'll probably just toss the gearset with tail housing and bearing cover/fork in the trunk on a tarp. I already know an fs5 gearset fits back there with plenty o

Update, got the transmission! $200 seems like an awful good deal even if I end up having to rebuild. People are asking way too much these days. It shifts well and I'll be de greasing and power washing to clean it up. Will have to figure out a way to carry it up to Washington with me, but I'm sure I'll figure it out. Included an ISR short shifter and my understanding is the SR20 trans had better synchros on 2nd (and 3rd?) as well as a bigger shift fork and a reverse synchro like the late 240sx transmissions which were an improvement over the earlier KA transmissions.

First part is a window roller. If you look straight down your door with the window rolled down you'll notice there are actually two places you can install them. Some people add a second one on each door which apparently helps keep the window in at speeds and makes it eeasier to roll. It didn't fix my issues but I'm fairly certain my roller and scissor assemblies need to be adjusted. The new reproduction ones don't slot in as nicely as oem. I found they're somehow both tougher to fit in, and slide around more once they're on... require some bending and tweaking. https://zcardepot.com/products/

I may have just lucked out on an SR20 transmission here in Utah... will confirm on Saturday. My trans was never going to hold the power and was actually getting close to rebuild time as it was so I'm pretty excited.

Might just be that it's too much compressor. I don't know enough about turbo sizing though, so I was sticking with what I had which has been mostly proven to reliably suit my goals. I'm a little surprised your power falls off that early though. We'll see what happens once it gets going. Just got the swing gate sent to me and it looks really well made. Check that link for some pictures. Gonna aim for about 11psi as my base boost and just leave it at that until other stuff gets sorted before worrying about a boost controller and trying to push it much. I'm slightly injector limited right now any

The restoration program dimensions in this PDF might be helpful, but I'm not sure anyone has a CAD file of the whole thing ready to go. 240ZRestorationprogram (1).pdf

Currently in Utah, but opted to not drive the Datsun and take a break for a while. Lots of changes recently. -Switched to a Mishimoto radiator after my radiator developed a leak and I didn't feel like just patching mine up. -Installed the Turbo block and got the base timing set and a couple short test drives to tweak the VE map with my old NA parts -Bolted the AC condenser. Top of it bolts straight to the radiator core support at two points, and bottom used a single bent bracket I made that bolts to the center then to original front valence brace. -Installed a proper Aeromotive

I was alright getting the compressor and bracket (didn't get the hoses), but honestly for cost saving if you're trying to save every penny it'd be cheaper to get the same compressor elsewhere. Unless you're sticking with a stock system, there's no point to using their hoses

OHHHHHH.... My mistake, it was Nostalgic Air, I don't know why I wrote Vintage Air. Edited the other post for clarity.

... I thought you knew, you were the one who directed me to them haha. They're the only ones that make a bolt in, and for the L24 guys it has provisions for the smog pump and bracket. Unfortunately that means the included belts are too short and the other is too long. Yeah, I'm kinda pinned between putting the fresh block in and dealing with sluggishness while turbo stuff gets done, or just dealing with like half a quart of oil every few hundred miles and running my engine for the rest of the summer. Both aren't fun despite being completely usable as a cruiser.

AC compressor and bracket arrived. Picked these up from (EDIT: Nostalgic Air, not Vintage Air). Their prices are going up and I'm hoping they start offering just the bracket but honestly I think if you have even mild fabrication abilities you can make the bracket for less money. I'm a bit burned out though so I wanted something "off the shelf" and just chopped a bit of the top off that's normally for bolting on the 240z smog pump. Currently it's on the turbo engine. Big debate right now is rebuilding the T3/T04e turbo I have with it, or running it NA temporarily while I wait