Zetsaz

You always seem a few steps ahead of me and with better attention to detail haha. That RMS is a job I'm hoping to do this summer. I have a leak in the same area. Same with the Z Car Garage brakes.

Are you still running the original ammeter? There's a reason they switched to volt meters with the 280z, lots of current going through the dash harness.

Where did you get the flywheel tool? And any chance you can share the file for that seal tool? I've had a notorious leak that I'm almost positive is the rear main seal so I may be doing this next time I'm home. My brother wants the leak fixed so he doesn't have to have cardboard under the car when it gets stored at his new house haha. Debating going with a lightweight flywheel while I'm there, but since I'm making less money now (though saving as much with fewer expenses) I'm avoiding too many "mid cost" sort of items so I can save for a major brake upgrade down the road.

Do you already have the engine? If not I'm not sure why you would go through the trouble, when a VQ swap is probably more readily available and has more support now. If you already have the engine, Simtec Motorsports did a VG30DE a long while ago and could be of some help. More people have done the VG30E just due to space constraints. Biggest issue with V6 or V8 with DOHC is just the width. Lots of space in the engine bay on an S30, but it's not very wide.

Moving is no joke! I'm out of the country now. Just did some work on mine for the first time in 6 months and I thought that alone was long enough

Heading back to Mexico tomorrow. First thing I got done was shortening the coolant line to the turbo. But also remembering the housings make this thing impossible to tighten. Need to find some low profile AN wrenches or something. Didn't quite get everything done, but DID manage to make a better wiring harness. It's not amazing but it's better than it used to be. Notable improvements are: -Actually reaching the new sensor location -More tucked up wiring around the thermostat housing -No more terrible grounds. Ecu grounds now run to an intake bolt near injectors 5+6 -Fewer crimped or soldered connections that were just temporary repairs of of PO's work to better suit what I was doing -Sensor ground connections and splits are more well thought out -Pre-ran required wiring for a fuel pressure sensor for extra security later -Now has boost controller wired, Owner had de-pinned a lot of the other harness. Notable wastes of time: -My longer harness may not even get me where I wanted. Planned for under driver seat, but may not work as well as I thought -Didn't improve the way I was running 12v lines for the injectors and coils. If I wasn't a total amateur I'd be rewiring the whole car same time and putting the ECU in a way better spot right next to relays. -Need to make a little sub harness to get power from driver side of the car to my relays on the passenger side, but it'll at least be better than the hack job I did last time -All that work meant I didn't replace the glass oil filter -Bought the wrong size silicone coupler for the throttle, but I may need to remake the intercooler pipe going from the IC to the throttle anyway, so this thing isn't moving soon.

Didn't quite want to do that just yet but ended up having to clearance the exhaust housing just slightly so I wouldn't risk the rod rubbing and restricting the movement. So here's what I ended up with for now. I removed the bolts and clocked it over to a position that cleared the plenum then marked and drill new holes. Couldn't go the opposite direction without cutting and rewelding to change the mount. Most aftermarket billet pieces are only two bolts and slotted so you're not limited by the clock of the compressor housing, so I figured this will be okay. Compressor threaded hole that used to be occupied with the hole on the far left of the bracket will just be a washer now. Got the intake mounted and it clears fine! Did the throttle cable as well but not entirely happy with how much it has to flip direction with the skillard Lokar bracket. Seems to work fine for now, but I'll just run it through the firewall and direct to the pedal when I have more time. Next step is shortening the AN hose going to the turbo, but now that's it's looking so much tidier I'm tempted to start rewiring. I initially just used the partially completed harness from the previous owner but it's not as nice as I'd like.

Drilling into that brand new flange on such an expensive part (even with black friday discounts) raised my blood pressure for a few hours haha. Especially on a part that's so Immediately visible when you open the hood

Yeah I just drilled a hole. Took a sec to figure out the most Ideal way. At first I did it with some tape, but then remembered it had to be reversed. Piece of paper then taped was easier to flip, but i tripled checked some distances just by using masking tape as a straight edge and measuring the distance (roughly) to the bolt holes. 3 different types of measuring and checking got me close enough. I drilled out to 5/8" which was big enough to account for small measuring errors (like the PO not drilling and tapping straight into the head for the cooling mod...). I'm juuuuust off center after checking. Might take the drill and just give it a tiny bit of extra clearance with the 5/8" bit. If I had better tools and a more proper workspace it would have been very Ideal to make some sort of U cut out from the top to pull it without disconnecting things, but as it stands I'll just have to deal with draining a bit of coolant and topping it off any time I need to service it Realistically it might be as simple as taking a saw and cutting down into the drilled portion from the top, but I don't want the exposed aluminum so visible against the anodized aluminum. Other mini project was a cable stop for the Lokar universal cable. I know one guy had issues with the cheaper one melting so I got the one with a stainless sleeve. They all come with cable ends for carbs though. I figured out the smallest cable end from a Dorman cable stop kit from any auto store is about the right size, but the hole was too small. Borrowed my brother-in-law's vise and drilled it out with his second smallest drill bit haha Currently the bigger hangup is my wastegate actuator bracket. The way I positioned it puts it right below the intake. I thought I could give it enough clearance by very slightly filing the threaded piece but it's still not enough. (my Tial piece is a bigger diameter than a more OEM style actuator). The intake is sitting right on the weld to the plenum in the center. Gonna check later if it might be possible to just reposition the mounting point by cutting it and rewelding closer to the exhaust. I still have enough room that I'm not worried about temps, but if I can move it maybe an inch and a half closer to the block It'll clear the weld and sit right between the runners for cyl 3 and 4.

Home for the holidays! Seen here is me embracing my gift to myself haha. Assembled the throttle and got the correct IAC valve (forgot mine is a 4.0l Jeep valve which is just the right amount of different from a GM valve) Did all the preassembly on the new crossmember and bolted up the new steering rack. Current job is measuring for the hole I need to drill and making my current coolant mod a bit closer to the second pic which should flow better and clear the new solid flange on the Protunerz intake

Cousin 3D printed one for me. I didn't bother smoothing it out. Didn't have to be red, just what he had available out of PETG for better heat resistance at the time. Could still be smoothed out more.

Top End Performance also does work on Datsun engines. Apparently they did most of the work on my block before I got it, but I also have a custom ground cam from them They have a lot of albums available so you can see some of their work. Their site says they do flow testing too, but I'm not sure many people have that much info out. https://www.flickr.com/photos/tep_icp/sets/

PETG. Should hold up fine. Cousin said the biggest difference (since it's not in the trans tunnel like on a 240) will be UV resistance so it's fine since it's not exposed to sunlight really. We'll reprint in ABS if it's an issue. Apparently he would have just printed in ABS first time (even though he thinks it won't be necessary), but he only had neon green haha

New 3D printed fuel and brake line brackets done Hoping to get these while I'm home for the break. Cousin is shipping them out today. They're designed for stock, I'm hoping my situation is close enough that they're usable. Printed 10 just in case

I'll probably take you up on this! I really appreciate it Bit of something happening at my cousin's right now, too 👀