Zetsaz

On the contrary, I like my rear control arms and plan on ordering the fronts. @Ben280has the rear subframe and can tell you his experience with it. Seems like more and more of the LS swap guys from the Swapped S30 Owners facebook group are using his front crossmember as well. I think the 8.8 kit, especially if you also go with the axles (which are outsourced), is the only thing I've heard negative reviews of. I feel like this has already been discussed endlessly in this thread and Ohm even had a chance to explain the situation regarding delays with the 8.8 kit. My two cents: if you have

Tough choice but I feel like I should just commit to the gauges. If I sell my Infiniti I'd have the money for an engine swap and gauges or a solid L series build already, and in a swap especially, I'd need the new gauges anyway unless I start messing with sensor thread adapters or resistors. Second casualty from the drive: the bumper brackets from Skillard are fairly well designed, but I think the extra weight of the metal bumper instead of fiberglass is creating a bit of a spring effect and the bumper seems to be moving enough on really harsh bumps to rub on the headlight buckets. I was car

I'm green with envy.

I'll keep that in mind! Updates: CV Bolts: Now at my brother's place in North Hollywood and got to check on some stuff. some of the bolts from the CVs to the adapters came loose. Strangely, I don't think it's just that they came loose, I think they were never totally flush to begin with. The plate on the end of them made it near impossible to properly tighten and I think as they've settled in, the 1/8" or so they might have been off on one end showed up. Was getting some oscillating noise from the back, but only under load. Everything is tightened up now, but I'm going to reinst

I'll 100% agree with this. I've legitimately had no issues with any of them. Just need to be patient, especially right now. I waited 3-4 months for my bumpers from Z Car Garage and they were great about keeping me in the loop even though sometimes the update was "our supplier has sent them but they're stuck at port and we don't know when they'll arrive." Same thing with Z Car Depot. One order mistake ever and they took care of it free of charge. I think all things considered our options do well with what they have. But like I said, unless we're happy to pay noticeably higher prices f

As values continue to climb I often wonder how the aftermarket Porsche community compares. My car is slowly starting to become nice, but I was talking to a friend recently about how Datsun guys are unfortunately really cheap. Often not willing to pay for quality, but still happy to complain. I wonder if the general demographic affects the quality of customer service some parts places are able to provide. Skillard has been consistently great, and other than issues explained in other threads, I've had a great experience with Apex. It's a double edged sword I think. As prices go up, maybe cust

Road trip down the entire western US a success! Review so far: most of the Pacific coast highway along Oregon isn't worth cruise. And I literally mean all but like 15 minutes of it unless you're heading to a specific camping spot. Going to hit Big Sur and Hearst Castle if it's open on the way back but not much else I want to see this time around. Pro tip - when you don't slam your car you can go more fun places

2 months ago?

Surprised you're dealing with this. How long has it been? I've had nothing but positive experiences. Last time they messed up anything my order they sent me the correct part completely free and didn't even ask me to return the incorrect small part that had gotten mixed up.

I think there's always some poor communication and terminology around this, sorry! I definitely still have the whole crossmember still on, it's just the bottom diff mount that isn't on it anymore.| I know some people have cut it into two smaller pieces that only function to hold the control arms from the front end, but I'm not sure that's ideal

This took too long. Finally got the diff top mount installed instead of the snubber. Still mild clunking but only out of a stop in first so I think whatever is left is mild play in the axles and adapters which is frustrating but I'll leave it be for now. Acceleration and cruising are noticeably smoother and now the giant bottom mount isn't making it more difficult to access the nuts and bolts on the driveshaft flange. Got a chance to cruise this weekend and get some feedback from @seattlejester. Biggest thing he noticed is some slop in the steering Shafter

Mostly. @Chickenmanwas kind enough to give me some baseline afr and timing maps despite not doing megasquirt tuning anymore, and has given me lots of helpful tips. A lot of my settings I've compared to @madkaw's .msq files since he's one of few other people I know running full sequential timing/fuel on an NA L series. The rest has been mostly my tinkering. Haven't really bothered messing with AFR or timing advance maps just because I'm still running essentially a stock block. Not sure there's a ton more to get out of it without headwork and a cam if I stick with this engine long term, so I've

Minor adjustment today: Was frustrated with low speed throttle control. Compared my tune to @madkaw's. Of course I can't use the same tables, but some of the setting can be very similar. I raised the TPSdot% threshold for accel enrichment and its SO much better on low throttle now. Nice to have some other guys running similar setups to compare to. Don't think I'll need to mess with replacing the linkages since it's feeling much better.

One thing to consider is the engine alone (no mods) is worth like $12k these days. I think some of the work is questionable, and that price for a car with that kind of interior is ridiculous, but the parts alone, plus the superstreet feature make it a somewhat reasonable price when you consider everything.

I love the color! Glad I took my time picking it. I've been keeping a close on eye on that bubbling in one spot, and it's the same as always. Makes me think it was just some solvent pop. Still haven't committed to how I want to correct it, but it'll either fix itself with wet sand before I take it somewhere for a proper cut and polish which we never did after paint. The mild clunking is way better but still driving me crazy. I think next step is fixing that driveshaft and considering a throttle cable instead of the mechanical linkages. the linkages are mostly working fine but at very low s