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Zetsaz

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Zetsaz last won the day on April 13 2021

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About Zetsaz

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    Can Charge Rent
  • Birthday September 25

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Logan, Utah and Seattle Area

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  1. Is that just a flat piece of aluminum? Seems pretty straightforward. Might go that direction. The one from Z car depot is raised right? Not sure how necessary that is, considering there's already a gap between the core and the mounting surface.
  2. Did the 12" spal fans not fit the shroud? I've been wanting to use that shroud as an off the shelf option with some spal pullers.
  3. Yeah, special characters break links, you have to be careful with thread titles. Should really make a sticky on the FAQ or on the rules page about that so people are aware, you're not the first to do it, and at least yours is a bit more obvious than some of the other weird ones that have broken and had to be remade in the past.
  4. Universally, it seems like the reviews are "these parts are good quality... if you ever get them" I think the owner is Paulo? Pablo? The business has had questionable reviews at best and I wouldn't trust them anywhere near the same level as, say, Skillard or Apex. Some people spent the better part 6 months or more waiting on parts from RetroSpec. I wouldn't hold my breath. Your best bet is to try calling and threaten to have your credit or paypal refund the purchase if they don't follow through on your order soon.
  5. New purchases arrived this week as I make progress on the turbo bits among other things: -3" stainless exhaust tubing, flex coupler, two V band joints, and O2 bung -Picked up the bellhousing. Machining only cost me $80! Started degreasing and cleaning it slowly so I can paint it in aluminum paint like I did the rear housing. Debating whether or not I want to just get it rebuilt for peace of mind now or run it as-is until it starts to bother me. -Skillard front splitter, mostly already installed, but I have threaded holes where bolts broke... and then my bolt
  6. The cheapest solution is to modify something available (assuming you have the skills). For most "off the shelf" or bolt-in solution, you're not gonna get much cheaper than CX racing.
  7. I have the same "ultimate internal wastegate" setup as you from ATP. What's that cover you have on your exhaust housing? I think I want to use something similar
  8. Just get the vintage air unit. You'll be better off sourcing similar parts from them in a kit with way more documentation and help. Look through the recent pages of my "musician's therapist" thread if you want to see some pictures
  9. Sorry, was quickly writing this and didn't notice the slip in terminology. Yes it's the shift rod opening and that's the instructions I gave the shop. I've edited the previous post so others don't read it and mess something up as a result of my little mental mistake.
  10. Countershaft bearing opening needs to be opened up for the larger 240sx bearing, and some surface around it machined down to provide clearance for the gear which is a bit wider... longer (?) front to back than the datsun one. Top shift rod opening needs to be opened up a bit as well for the thicker shifter forks/rods And I think that's about it. It's really not about the time and more about the fact that most machine shops just don't seem to take on low volume stuff these days. Shouldn't take much once they get to it. If they don't get to it soon I may just ask for it back and find
  11. Well... As expected, I've called on two separate occasions and both times the machine shop has told me they haven't gotten to it yet despite calling a day or two after they told me it'd be ready. It's "top of the list" right now and will be done "Monday or Tuesday" but I'm not counting on it haha. As soon as I get the bellhousing back and cleaned up the transmission is going in for an inspection and rebuild from a local shop I've trusted before with the transmission in my hardbody
  12. Mild update: Finally making progress after the summer hiatus. The return to in person instruction at my job kept me busy at the tail end of summer into the start off fall, so the car has been sitting on Jack stands for a bit. Finally dropped the transmission and pulled off the bellhousing for the 240sx transmission upgrade. Local shop is taking care of the machining. Transmission crossmember and new driveshaft are both ready to go but I think I'll have the transmission inspected and possibly rebuilt just to save future headache. Some pictures to come
  13. Yeah, the RB can go to 3.4 but MZR seems pretty keen on keeping NA for the purist perspective on past builds. I follow Peter McDonnell and he's also pointed out that it's probably easier to build a high HP L Series than an RB. Considering his builds, I wouldn't doubt it. There's always the chance they're sticking with the L series and using diesel blocks like Rebello has done. Was just curious!
  14. @Derek out of curiousity, is one of your buyers MZR Roadsports in the UK? Was looking more at their 50th anniversary build since they recently did the full reveal of the first one they built. Went to their site and noticed their "Evolution" package comes with a DOHC head. Is that yours? I know the OS Giken head is an option for those high dollar builds, but I can't imagine them going with it when there's a better cost option around.
  15. Info you need is on this handy chart in the link. It's available elsewhere I think but this was the first place I found it. Short answer - yes. Long answer - Even without a vin you can tell by some structural changes that are easily noticeable. Top seatbell mounting point changed after '75 just after the first year of the 280, earlier cars had it mounted to the B pillars, later cars had it mounted on the strut towers, the taillights changed to the later style for the 260z, the 240z had a shorter radiater and accompanying shorter (not as low to the ground) lower radiator support. late
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