Zetsaz

Looks about like mind did after sandblasting at @jpndave's place and having his son help me weld haha. I remember they just sort of handed me the little blast pot and let me go to town in the "yard" of the new property haha

Thanks! Also related, things you're mentioning are why I went with BC coilovers. I like that the full strut body adjusts without affecting the spring preload. In the future if I want much better performance I'd just go with KW but I can't justify it with how little I drive the car now that I'm out of the country

Where did you get your silicone sheet for the shifter? Did you just cut your own hole? I need to do something similar. I have a stock boot flipped 180 with the shifter hole opened up but since it's formed for the opposite direction it's pulling slightly while in gear which isn't good.

Wanted to buy this but need to relocate my MS3x first. It's in the stock ecu location but much fatter, so these wouldn't work until then Just rear 6x9 speakers in a replacement taillight panel cover like the one MSA sells is your best bet then if you want something easy. You can always wire for front speakers and figure out what you want to do with those later.

Route your aftermarket FPR the way the manufacturer recommends, I have mine off the vacuum port in the middle of the intake between the 3-4 runners. Yes! Fast idle valve, but no, not necessary yet. Pretty sure your car also needs vacuum going to the bottom of the distributor for the vacuum advance. Fast idle isn't needed for heat, but you do need the vacuum canister with vacuum lines going the right places for the stock system to have heat. IIRC, the system defaults to AC mode if your lines are unplugged. Probably a failsafe so you're not cooking in the summer when people are more likely to drive a sports car.

Do you have the FSM? There's a section that can help you with vacuum line routing. I would double check where you have your lines routed to and see what's missing or incorrectly installed compared to stock. Realistically here aren't that many vacuum lines you NEED just to move, but stuff like the AAR definitely help for cold starts. Also looks like you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, so I would double check your vacuum to that. I forget what the FSM calls it, but it looks like you're also missing the little booster that pulls on the throttle linkage when the AC puts load on the engine. Kind of primitive but functional piece that would also be connected to the vacuum canister.

An enclosure for two 6x9 speakers that replaces the taillight cover panel like the one MSA sells is about the best sounding option without extensive work. Think about a modern coupe or sedan you've been in. It almost always has speakers behind the rear seats pointed up towards the glass. It's a more than good enough situation for the majority of uses. Stock location points the speakers right at each other and doesn't have ideal acoustics. Speakers on the storage compartment is also okay, but realistically, you're pointing them straight up instead of slightly towards you and they're taking up as much or more storage space than a panel that replaces the taillight cover. Those rear speaker adapters aren't a bad option if you don't care that much about loud audio and just want something since they likely won't fit something as big as a 6x9. That said, they're probably a better option than the stock location since they're about as discreet and will probably fit close to the same size speaker, but are at least aimed better. Adding front speakers is the bigger hang-up since space is at a premium. Do you care about front audio, or do you just want some tunes in the car?

Can confirm. For reference @A to Z, me and @Dat73z have very similar engine builds (as far as the turbo bits go), except I'm EFI with stock L28ET compression and I'm still at full boost by the low 3k rpm range, and some boost not that far off idle. At cruise speeds with my current gearing I'm going into boost the moment I push the gas pedal even in 5th. Around town it's not quite the instantaneous response my G37S had, but it's also lower displacement, lower compression, and doesn't have the modern VVL technology. With better compression I'm sure I'd be close enough to only notice if I was REALLY paying attention to rpm.

The issue with a build like this these days is that for the cost and effort you're really not getting much of a benefit over going with a modern turbo. The effort and cost to source or create a manifold for twins is more than creating a manifold for a twin scroll. that coupled with modern ball bearing turbos that spool faster and are more efficient than old designs means there's not much benefit (or at least not enough for most people to justify the increased cost and complexity) That said, Todaro Racing did a nice twin turbo VQ37 build, and Koshikubi engineering out of japan has a REALLY nice Twin L series being built right now that could provide some inspiration you can find them on instagram @koshikubi_engineering

Looking sweet! My apex subframe is on the way as well. Taking advantage of their sales. Figured I might as well go for it when I'm installing the new T3 steering rack and have to realign everything anyway.

What year is your vehicle? Hard to help without info since some things changed over the years, and may be different across cars with/without AC, and with/without California emissions stuff. You don't need special batter cables, the batter does lead to the fusible links, but not directly. Positive end goes to the starter which goes to the bundle splitting into the fusible links. The fusible links are basically an old version of fuses, but they don't go out in the same way, so sometimes it can be hard to tell unless you measure resistance and continuity across them. Most people upgrade the fusible links. There's an example on my Musician's Therapist thread where you can see how I did it, but also here: https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

Holiday sales update: Those of you who know me know I've been very into photography lately. Recently Fujifilm announced their new X-T5, and I was tempted to preorder it as an upgrade to my X-E4 but decided that I didn't need the upgrade features on it for what I do (at least not now). So that money has gone towards black friday sales on some parts I've been craving. -Just ordered an Apex Engineered front crossmember. Already have the T3 steering rack waiting, but on top of the worn out rack, the bump steer and front geometry was not confidence inspiring, the rack will be fixing the bump steer issues as well as improving the front control arm angles, which are pointed up towards the outer ends even at my conservative ride height. -Debating ordering a Protunerz intake for their currently pretty nice discount. Other than the increased flow, I like the angle and clearance it provides to make things easier to work on, but more importantly, the built in provision on the throttle for the GM IAC valve I already have would be nice. Only downside is having to drill into the brand new flange to clear the cylinder head mod. Still thinking it over

I replaced my oe system with vintage air and the open hole has been a source of frustration. Can't remember which, but one of the European datsun builders actually 3D printed a replacement that fed into the vintage air system. I can confirm after several thousand miles (including round trip down the entire Pacific coast a couple Aprils ago) that you will have plenty of airflow into the car through that hole. In the mornings when it was cool on my pacific coast drive I had to have the heater on all the time. You don't notice it much as driver, but you get a cool breeze on your feet on the passenger side (or a hot breeze if it's summer). I attempted to just use some heat shield/insulations stuff, but a single drive and the air pressure behind it blew it off. You'll need to cap it off by taking the cowl panel off, or create some kind of plate from the dash side, either way you'll probably be drilling a bit. Only non-intrusive solution would be something like the 3d printed panel feeding into a new fan setup.

Hmmm... seems my post didn't include full comment. I was going to say the one area of concern would be the door to fender gap. Maybe it's just mine, but something about the hinge design had a tiny leading edge rub on mine at first when it was reassembled even though the gap seemed right. I would double check your clearances there before committing to a number, with enough tolerances to account for future paint.

unmeasured... bit scared to haha