Ben
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Posts posted by Ben
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Check for vacuum leaks, damaged connectors and find out where the hell the smoke is coming from!
(e.g. you may have a fractured PCV hose that is leaking onto the exhaust manifold and really screwing up your air metering.)
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Nissan Patrol - 1968-69? (can't remember which), is a 1" cast MC (PN# JB1419).
I'm running one on my '73, with a Willwood prop-valve.
The pedal is pretty firm with the S12 callipers, I'm expecting it to be a little softer with the S12W's since they have the larger piston volume.
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All RB 02 sensors seem to be the same except for RB26.
..............
Except that's the picture of the factory Cat overheat sensor...
The O2 sensor is located right up near the engine, and it is the same for all RB25ET's at least (22690-83T10).
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It's a common mis-conception that the stock coils aren't any good for a built motor. I reckon that it's a Splitfire rep that started that rumour... Everyone down here fits them at the slightest hint of an ignition issue. Good quality gapped plugs at the right heat range tend to do wonders for an engine (as does full battery voltage at the coilpacks!).
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Not at all. I 'd guess that it would take about 3 or 4 of them to equal the displacement of a 600x300x76 FMIC!
Turbo lag is much more a function of turbo wheel sizes & exhaust flow than intake ducting displacement.
What you're after is an efficient surface area with minimal pressure drop. Of course the smaller package you can use to achieve this the better. For an L20AET, I'd expect that a 400x300 bar & plate cooler would be more than enough to keep the charge cool. Upgrading your turbo to a BB core unit similar in size to the RB20DET would assist in this area too. You may not pick up much power, but you'll get better response & your temperatures will be lower. Which means that your boost could be safely raised further (tuning permitting).
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How does the seller figure that it runs?
There are hoses missing all over the place....
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Ideally, put 'em both in parallel. Less pressure drop & better cooling.
But if you can only use 1, then I'd expect the RB20DET unit to be slightly larger, but not by much.
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If I was you, I'd seriously consider selling the F9 to someone who has less need for full ignition control & getting a fuel/ignition computer to replace it (E6A or better).
Turbo cars require reasonably complex timing maps to run at their best (and most reliable), and unless you plan on fitting some kind of stand-alone ignition controller, you will not get anywhere near the full potential from your engine.
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Oh, like these?
http://www.versadev.com/ben/HPI Volume 8 (linky has spaces, so cut'n'paste).
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The Merc 4.5L injectors are low-impedance, 380cc @ 3bar. Otherwise known as Bosch '036' injectors.
Nissan FJ20ET are 370cc/low at same pressure.
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$20kAUD, 4000km year, $700AUD premium. Not covered when racing, so I've been told to make sure it gets damaged 'on it's way too/from the track'
Will be bumping it up to around $35kAUD when it's 'more' finished.
You have to ask 'How much is it worth to you?'. My Z owes me about $40kAUD so far, but I'm prepared to have it insured for a bit less at this stage.
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The original Jatco 3N71B can certainly be beefed up to cope with the strain (been there, done that).
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When I had my car inspected it passed with a Willwood valve in the rear circuit, and no OEM valve. However the pedal travel was too excessive for my likeing, so I upgraded from the OEM 7/8 to a 1" MC. Pedal is firm, brakes are good, bias is good. I was going to go for the 15/16 MC, but there are no aftermarket suppliers of that part & OEM was $500AUD. All residual valves are removed.
It pulled up about 1700N on the rears & 2300N on the fronts. For comparison, a semi-trailer bogey pulled 25000N a few minutes later!!!!
This is with stock front discs with Hilux Calipers on the front & Skyline sliding calipers on the rear (simillar to 280ZX). Semi-metallic pads all round.
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That is BAD news. Those guys were great to deal with and SUPER helpful over the phone. We lost a good one there.
Indeed, after some extensive searching I found out that Dave had died of cancer sometime in early April. It was a real shock, I've dealt with him on a number of occasions, as have many other people I know in Australia. I was damn near ready to order one of the pans & a set of custom pistons, but wondered why I got no response to my e-mail....
The AZC price for that pan is pretty damn good, and I think I'll get one.
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But it will be "higher quality" air
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The Hilux is a very popular 4x4 in Australia, and is regarded as the toughest in its class. They aren't cheap, but they are worth it.
A large number of them in the outback would be in worse condition than the featured car was after they dropped the caravan on it (and all previous abuses)!!!
A friend of mine rolled one about 1/2 dozen times in the sand dunes up in the Moomba Gas Fileds (company car). Technically a write-off, but certainly still driveable.
He's since had a 4WD driving course!
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Oh, it's ported alright
That HP figure is the NA potential, but it isn't 100% accurate - try googling for the way to guesstimate this value. It should be another matter when I force feed it via my ported inlet manifold!
The person who got it done was very impressed with the flow figures & he has a race L24 that is pushing out 160kW at the wheels using SU's at about 8000rpm....
The inlet efficiency got as high as 85% at 0.600" & 80.5% @ 0.450". Exhaust was 93% @ 0.600" & 90% @ 0.450". These figures are @ 10" pressure, with 44mm & 35mm valves respectively
The air-speed was 330.59FPS 1" down-runner.
I hope to have this engine assembled within 3 months.
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I'll let you know within the next 6 months (I hope!).
My P90 was benched as flowing enough for 313HP at 28"
(inlet was 192.3CFM @ 0.450", exhaust was 129CFM @ 0.450")
This was with stock valves, but the valve seats are cut wide.
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They don't call manual boost controllers 'dial-a-hole' for nothing....
You're right John - they get a big blood rush & forget about everthing they know about sensible tuning, next thing they wonder why their wallet is so light!
Big Boost = cautious tuning.
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T-slot cast pistons will do that....
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Charlie @ Zedd Findings is a great bloke. But before I discovered him, I got my rear doglegs from MSA. They sat in the shed for about a year before use & there wasn't a spec of rust on them. A recommended high quality part.
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The spacing is different, but the bearing sizes are the same.
I was going to try & fit an RB25DE main bearing cradle to my L28, but no luck....
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A bunch of guys that I knew fitted a 600cc Charade turbo to a Briggs & Stratton 3-HP lawnmower engine (it was a motorised beer-keg). Yes, it did burnouts....
I also saw a simillar setup attached to a 20" BMX bike - that was damn near deadly!
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I can sympathise with your predicament. My 240Z restoration took 5 years, and for most of the last year my L28ET was sitting, unused, in the shed. Well, after driving it for a few months I've discovered that the exhaust stem seals are failing & as a result it's burning a reasonable amount of oil during over-run. Grrrr....
So this brings forward the ported P90/forged piston/big boost conversion that I was hoping to put off for around another year in order to 'finish' freshening up my Skyline (one day I'll get he seats retrimmed & the A/C fixed!)
BUT - I suggest you get the crank thrust play fixed ASAP, as it wil be adding extra load to the rods, pistons, bores & balancer as wel as causing your ignition timing to wander all over the place. This is a cause for concern, you don't want to have to replace the pistons & have the engine re-bored due to scuffing.
Those guys were great to deal with and SUPER helpful over the phone. We lost a good one there.
RB NEO Question
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
I concur - that's definitely a NEO motor (the TB assembly is the big give-away).
It's also fairly hammered - the CAS is trashed, the BOV is missing, there's no flywheel or clutch and it has a bent A/C idler...
But note that the NEO fitted to the S2 C34 Stagea RSFV (i.e. automatic) does not have TCS, and has a blanking plate over that section of pipework.