Ben
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Posts posted by Ben
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Which computer is it?
Which mode are you running it in? (basic/advanced & MAP/TPS)
Do you have decel cutoff enabled?
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And do you know how hard it is to press the pedals when you're sitting on the left hand side?
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The main reason that the Aussie R31/VL had an RB30E over an RB25DE is the low-down torque factor. The RB25DE needs about 2500rpm before it starts to much decent numbers, while the RB30E is doing well at less then 2000.
The RB30DE combo is a winner, but is a little harder to do than fitting either of the donor engines in their original form.
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Close but no cigar! - it's a Series 2 R31 GTS, Australian-only model, RB30E, ~140kW (up from the standard 115kW).
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L20E & L20ET injectors are 185cc's, as are VG20ET units. The next 'up-size' that will directly fit in are FJ20E's at 240cc''s then NICS RB20DET's (ie HR31 & Z31 200ZR) at 259cc's. After that you're in 370cc territory with the FJ20ET.
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I guess I get around 18mpg out of my custom L28ET setup (automatic, 3.90:1, 215/60/15). But once I'm finished, I'll be measuring things like gallons per hour too
For comparison: My stock DR30 Skyline (~1200kg, ~200HP, FJ20ET) gets around 24mpg city or country.
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Not really - I ran a smillar setup on my L28ET skyline - the A/C fan was mounted infront of the IC & was activated by both intake temps over 45C & the A/C system.
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Us Aussies are only to happy to take some of your greenbacks
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The shaft is indeed held in by that roll-pin. You will notice the groove ~1/2 way down your new pinion ger - that is where the pin resides.
Get the appropriate sized roll-pin punch to remove.
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One thing not mentioned here is the fact that;
"Turbos respond better to pulsing exhaust flow. However, whan many cylinders dump into a common manifold the individual exhaust pulses are smoothed out. When we run two turbos we effectively spread the pulses further apart & increase their amplitude. Therefore, when the turbo is spooling up to speed rather than receiving a constant push it will get a series of vigorous shoves that help it accelerate faster. It is for this reason that twin-turbos frequently manifest reduced lag than that they have smaler low-inertia turbine wheels. "
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"In V-type & flat cylinder layouts it is easy to visualise how superior exhaust flow will be into twin turbos. However the same is equally true with straight-sixes. The other aspect, of course, is exhaust flow out of the turbine. Generally we will be hard pressed to find space down the side of the engine for anything larger than a 3" dump pipe. with two turbos, even small 2.5" dump pipes provide 37% more flow area to help turbulent turbine flows to more quickly settle, while 2.75" pipes provide 67% more area. "
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"Also with exhaust flow divided, each turbo will run a touch cooler, which ultimately improves their service life."
(quotes taken from "Forced Induction Performance Tuning, pp 94-96)
I have manifolds & a pair of T28's for my 'L28TT project'. But with my current engine setup, my T3/T4 hybrid is not yet being used to it's full potential.
One day....
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The RB26DETT uses non-sequential turbos, but your description of how a sequential system operates is correct.
As for parts, the GT-R was offered for sale new in the UK, Australia & New Zealand (and a few other places, like Singapore). The R32-onwards JDM Skylines are also very common in Australia & New Zealand as a 'low volume import'. Nissan Australia has a policy of providing parts for all of their cars that are available in the country (they seem to support the importing a heck of a lot more than Toyota for example). I regularly purchase new parts for my JDM DR30 Skyline, my sister buys bits for her JDM Pulsar GTiR & I have several friends with GT-R's or other R32/33 cars. Parts were certainly hard to get in the early/mid '90's before there was an appreciable number of vehicles in the country, but it's a non-issue now.
So to cut a long story short - buy your bits from any Aussie/NZ Nissan performance shop or even direct from a dealership who's happy to ship overseas.
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The only 4-digit output Z cars I've seen are GT-R hybrids in Japan, and the body is definately only there for the ride (and one heck of a ride it would be!)
If you're talking tube frame front-back than all is well, but the stock body with bracing is not going to hold up to that kind of power. You'll be tearing mounts & fittings left right & centre.
Drop the power level down to the 500-600HP mark, and you'll probably be in business. Also, how much more performance are you going to get for the investment? - even the 280ZX is a reasonably light car for 500HP!
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Hey Crunchy,
Sounds like the TPS idle contact may be causing your problems. One thing to try: free-rev the engine up to 5000rpm, if that fails, disconnect the TPS & try again. Report back on your findings.
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Bloody hell, some of you guys are out of control
Anyhow....
Mine:
'73 240Z - First car, rebuilt the L24, TO4'd it, restored it (over 5-years) now fitted with custom L28ET. Owes me about $45kAUD so far....
'73 240Z - 1/2 mine, 1/2 dads, now all dads, RB25DE, G-Nose, under construction.
'82 MR30 Skyline - swapped out the L24 for an L28, then turboed it (engine is the one in my 240Z). Owes me $10kAUD tops, including custom brake setup & all it's other mods. Quietly rusting at my parents place while I wait to decide it's fate.
'83 DR30 Skyline Hard-Top (pillarless coupe) - Jap import, bought from auction, FJ20ET, R200LSD (stock), engine rebuilt, body resprayed, getting box rebuilt & 3" system fitted this month. Owes me about $15kAUD so far, daily driver.
'81 P910 Bluebird wagon - 1/2 mine 1/2 dads. Needed a car to transport a gearbox one day, so I bought it from the Datsun wrecker near the gearbox workshop
Rebuilt the L20B, fitted a 5-speed & fixed up all electric & mechanical that was wrong. Pity about the rust.... Currently on loan to friend, haven't seen it in a year, runs like a champ. Owes us about $2kAUDNow to the rest of my family....
'65 SP310 Roadster - dads, getting total restoration to original.
'71 P510 4-door - Dads, bought it new, FJ20E, RX7 Brakes the list goes on....
'7? PL510 2-door - US import getting a VG30ET among other things....
'86 VL Commodore - Mum's/dad's (the family car). Bought new, now done 350,000+km (love that RB30E). Pity about 'The Generals' paint quality issues....
'92 RNN14 GTiR - Sisters, her dream car, sold her '96 Excel for it, 4WD, SR20DET, 'Baby Godzilla'.
'85 ST163 Celica SX - Other Sisters', faded red paint, but still a nice car.
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Re the 2-pump issues - staging the pumps can be a good idea (especially to limit fuel heating), but there may indeed be an issue with dampening of the output. I have seen many hi-po road cars running 2 & sometimes 3 Motorsport pumps in parallel. Most EFI race cars run at least 2 pumps, some as many as 4 or 6 (one low pressure for each high pressure). So it can be done & work well.
Re: pump output. I do not know the specifications of the factory L28E or L28ET pumps. All I can tell you is that my N/A L24E pump is a nice quiet unit & 2 of them will provide plenty of flow for 400HP+. I will check out the free-flowing rate one of these days & post the results.
There are equations that will tell you how much fuel flow you will need for a given HP-per-cylinder & how much flow will decrease with fuel pressure. If you have several working OEM pumps, then they are already cheaper than buying a new, noisy, overheating-the-fuel-when-demand-is-low pump. If you have issues with the multi-OEM setup then spend money!
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As previously stated - the Fast Idle Compensating Device (FICD) will bump up your idle speed when the A/C is on, there is no stock BOV & the Relief Valve is also explained in a previous post. So, I will answer some of the remaining questions:
The Auxillary Air Control Valve (AAC) is a vacuum motor in the manifold that is attached to a throttle plate bypass. This device is what gives you a high idle after startup. It is controlled (pulsed) by the Vacuum Control Modulator (VCM). The VCM also controls the opening of your EGR system at the correct load/rpm point.
The Air Regulator is a much cruder electric & water heated bypass valve that also influences cold start running speeds.
The water lines through the throttle body are there to prevent the throttle plate freezing open (not pretty). If you live in a warm climate, and don't drive the car in cold (not necessarily freezing) conditions then you can probably bypass it.
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If the master didn't bleed properly, then the corresponding circuit certainly has a large amount of air in it....
Since you know that there is an issue - fix your bleeding problem & take it from there.
The Z brakes will not purge all air unless the master is bled.
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The stock RB25DET injector is good for 370cc/min @ 45psi. The Nismo upgrade 16600-RR710 is good for 480cc/min at the same pressure.
Based on those figures, you will be able to calculate the HP numbers that they support.
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That's a lot of idle pressure.....
You may also be having a problem where your fuel pressure it too high & the solenoids in the injectors are unable to operate properly.
Yuo might want to get the injectors tested for flow & pattern - specifically at the fuel pressure that you are running.
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That is a perfectly valid way of near-as-doubling your fuel flow.
I've found that an L24E pump will flow just enough for about 240HP - it's a quiet, self-priming pump. So when I upgrade my Turbo motor with 550cc injectors & forged pistons, I'll be fitting a second pump of exactly the same specification.
Much cheaper than a new Bosch motorsport pump....
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In that case then, contrary to the A/F on the dyno graph. it certainly isn't showing up as a dangerously lean mix with before-turbo temps of 1400F.
I get around 1250F after turbo on my 8psi powerplant at 12.5:1 AFR....
FWIW - I was able to get brass guides from Malvern Racing.
Lovely work, something to aim for!
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The early MC is a bolt on for all S30-series cars. But you may find that the lines are reversed. You should correct this by bending your tubing to suit.
Another thing worth mentioning is that you may need to swap residual valves over from your old MC to the new one, as the 280ZX is a 4-wheel disc setup.
For those who want a 1" MC I used JB1419 from a Nissan Patrol - lines reversed, valves removed, it firmed up my pedal just nicely with my LN65 Hilux/ R31 Skyline brake setup (soon to be R33 Skyline/R31 Skyline).
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The S54B was only sold in a small number of countries outside Japan. There are a few dozen left here in Australia, but that is indeed a very rare find. Most have had the original engine turfed & an L28 fitted.
Rebuilt the L20B, fitted a 5-speed & fixed up all electric & mechanical that was wrong. Pity about the rust.... Currently on loan to friend, haven't seen it in a year, runs like a champ. Owes us about $2kAUD
still no boost !?
in Turbo / Supercharger
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