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9kredline

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About 9kredline

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  • Birthday 08/04/1984
  1. Like the title says... need a slicktop to swap an LS1 into or an already completed project, preferably in Central Florida or the Atlanta metro area. I'm willing to ship it from elsewhere but it will affect what I'm willing to pay since it's sight unseen and I have to cover shipping costs. Hit me up and let me know what you've got. Pics always appreciated. Reply here or send to clayton1142@gmail.com Thanks!
  2. Don't forget about the Jeep Hurricane concept they produced. Dual 5.7L HEMIs and completely independent 4-wheel steering. http://www.seriouswheels.com/pics-2005/2005-Jeep-Hurricane-Concept-FA-1920x1440.jpg http://www.diseno-art.com/images/jeep_hurricane_round.jpg It was a proof of concept that would never see production but it was a beautiful machine, nonetheless.
  3. There's an avenue I can pursue! I'll give the Harley and BMWs a look and see if I can come up with anything. It's not looking good, though. I may be a bit out of my league.
  4. I was asked by a friend to do some work on his bike. He's wanting to mount a longitudinal motor into his v-twin frame for a shop as advertising. The motor is a briggs vanguard 3 cyclinder, which is very compact, but I dont know where to begin with the transmission. Do any longitudinal 4 cylinder motorcycles have a shaft to chain transmission that isn't integrated into the block that I could adapt? Or any other options? This isn't my strong suit but I'm eager to help him and learn in the process. Thanks guys!
  5. EDIT: I meant "short snout" for the R200 I know this isn't the right forum but it gets the majority of the foot traffic and I don't know if it's reaching the right individuals so please excuse the intrusion! Im just wanting to know if the R200 VLSD gears from other models will work inside a Z32 NA R200 carrier? I'm starting parts collection for a TDi swap and the stock 4.08 with the R154 supra 5-speed (with an R151 bellhousing and ACME adapter to mount it to the motor) will run about 1k RPM higher than I'd really like it to at 75MPH. I saw that the Q45 has a 3.545 and the auto 350Z has a 3.36, which would both work, but will they mate up correctly or do I have any other options? I don't want to swap subframes with the TT model just to have to eliminate HICAS and add all the extra weight. I've purchased the R151 Toyota bellhousing that will mate an R154 to a 22RE which means it will mate to the ACME adapter for a 1.9TDi. The gearing is just a little too high as is and I would like to rectify it since this swap is going for an economical GT cruiser. All help is appreciated.
  6. Anyone had any experience with the different short snout R200s?
  7. Im wanting to know if the R200 VLSD gears from other models will work inside a Z32 R200 carrier? I'm starting parts collection for a TDi swap and the stock 4.08 with the R154 supra 5-speed (with an R151 bellhousing and ACME adapter to mount it to the motor) will run about 1k RPM higher than I'd really like it to at 75MPH. I saw that the Q45 has a 3.545 and the auto 350Z has a 3.36, which would both work, but will they mate up correctly or do I have any other options? I don't want to swap subframes just to have to eliminate HICAS and add all the extra weight. Help?
  8. There would be one issue to overcome, regardless of the chassis, unless you run rather large tires, which is engine RPM and power band. Why it works for the Suzuki and Tracker off-road applications is because of the large tires they use. This considerably drops engine RPM and puts the motor into the right power band. If you used the Toyota W56 the kit is built for you are given a .85 final gear in the transmission. If used in the 280Z you have a 3.545 final drive in the R180 (for example purposes, many have swapped them out, but most R200s are shorter gearing, ex. 3.7, 3.9, 4.11) and with a tire height of 26 inches (it may be smaller, couldn't find it so I used the Z32 stock height) you would cruise at 75mph at 2921 RPM, about 1000 RPM over max torque production. I based everything around 75 because it's about what I drive on the interstate. Cops don't usually bother you unless you break past 80, and getting tickets negates all the gas saving you would be attempting to create. I used the T56 .5 ratio on a stock NA Z32 setup with a 4.11 rear end 26" tire height and it pegged at 2k RPM at 75, but I don't know how difficult it would be to mate beyond from having an adapter fabricated.
  9. That's just plain wrong. The VG30DE produces only about 180-190lb/ft of torque and it can propel the up-to 3400lbs 2+2/convertible just fine. With off the shelf parts and upgrades, the 1.9 TDi gobs of torque to move the vehicle (considerably more than the NA could ever produce) and enough horsepower to get you up to speed. It's never going to be a drag vehicle, but it would roast tire pretty effortlessly. As far as weight is concerned, the New Bettle is about a hefty 3000lbs on the curb. If you choose a 2+0 Z32 coupe you're at about 3300lbs, A hair over 3200lbs with a slicktop. Removing the weight of the VG30DE (~450lbs) will remove about 150lbs when adding the 1.9TDi (~300lbs) (Two extra pistons, rods, heads, 3 more cams, huge intake plenum, excessive intake plumbing, etc.). Replace the heavy 2 piece driveshaft with a single-piece aluminum unit, replace the seats with lighter units, and dump the jack and spare and you're right at what a TDi would be moving stock, without modification. So yes, you could have a perfectly daily driven turbo diesel Z32 with great mileage and a lot less upkeep.
  10. Can you weld? Do you have a shop with the right tools and a lift? If so, it's as straight forward as any swap. Mounts and wiring. If not, I hope you have handy friends or a deep wallet.
  11. I would imagine the width of the tires and the friction they create coupled with the torque of a 572 BBC would cause the car to rotate on the rear axle instead of breaking the tires loose. Has more to do with a solid rear axel, wide tires, and torque than it does backhalving, unless you say you can't put tires that wide unless you backhalve it.
  12. This would be an awesome swap. I'm just curious about a few things... 1. What speedometer solution would you need since the ECU is VW, the transmission is Toyota (different ratios) and the rear end isn't the same? Is the ECU flashable to input the the ratios to provide an accurate speed or am I over thinking this? Will the transmission/rear end gears keep the diesel at peak efficiency? It would suck to go through the effort just to end up over-revving or bogging it because the gearing is goofed. Would love to do this in a Z32, would make an awesome cruiser/daily driver.
  13. Sorry for the late response, been out of town. The doner is a late 80's CRX for the 1.9 TDi. I started looking for an AZ600 after posting this, lol. I'd love to put one of those 1.4L TDis in it! Sounds just heavenly. What would be required?
  14. I was asked by a friend recently about helping him perform a swap into his FWD platform, which I've never done and can admit I'm rather clueless about. All I could find on google was a bunch a honda guys bickering about b18s, h22s, turbo or na, etc etc, and nothing about actually performing the swap. So I thought I'd give it a shot here. Does anyone know what's involved with swapping FWD drivetrains? Example: 1.9LTDi into a CRX or a Metro. Granted, it's just an example, not weighing the pros and cons of the platform. Although I'd love to put one of those TDi's into a '72 Honda AZ600 coupe. It would get rediculous mileage. Anyways, ideas? Does it require the whole subframe, or just new mounts? Axels, CVs? Thanks in advance for letting me know if I should just tell him to hit up a fab shop.
  15. Florida is an expensive state for power, but I'm a transient. I've been stationed in Tampa for years, so I'm prime for getting orders out, or I'll probably put in my seperation papers in a year or so for a more predictable and stable job/homelife. Cost of these swaps are not as much as you would think, though they are a little more expensive than a JTR swap. The biggest expenses are the motor ($2k), the controlling electronics ($1.5k), the batteries ($1-1.5k) and the plugin charger and accessories ($3k) with some various items to hook it all together: machined adapter/hub to mount to transmission, various electric motors to supply spin to the AC condensor, vacuum to the power brakes, etc. Plus, I can build this vehcile over time. Budget won't warrant a GM Volt, and the hybrids I can afford have a lot of miles racked up on them. I don't need to spend the money only to turn around and replace any components. I see where you were coming from, though, Pop. As far as the XTs go... they are ugly as sin, but they are an engineering masterpiece. 0.29 drag coefficient, AWD, handle amazingly.
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