9kredline

Like the title says... need a slicktop to swap an LS1 into or an already completed project, preferably in Central Florida or the Atlanta metro area. I'm willing to ship it from elsewhere but it will affect what I'm willing to pay since it's sight unseen and I have to cover shipping costs. Hit me up and let me know what you've got. Pics always appreciated. Reply here or send to clayton1142@gmail.com Thanks!

Don't forget about the Jeep Hurricane concept they produced. Dual 5.7L HEMIs and completely independent 4-wheel steering. http://www.seriouswheels.com/pics-2005/2005-Jeep-Hurricane-Concept-FA-1920x1440.jpg http://www.diseno-art.com/images/jeep_hurricane_round.jpg It was a proof of concept that would never see production but it was a beautiful machine, nonetheless.

There's an avenue I can pursue! I'll give the Harley and BMWs a look and see if I can come up with anything. It's not looking good, though. I may be a bit out of my league.

I was asked by a friend to do some work on his bike. He's wanting to mount a longitudinal motor into his v-twin frame for a shop as advertising. The motor is a briggs vanguard 3 cyclinder, which is very compact, but I dont know where to begin with the transmission. Do any longitudinal 4 cylinder motorcycles have a shaft to chain transmission that isn't integrated into the block that I could adapt? Or any other options? This isn't my strong suit but I'm eager to help him and learn in the process. Thanks guys!

EDIT: I meant "short snout" for the R200 I know this isn't the right forum but it gets the majority of the foot traffic and I don't know if it's reaching the right individuals so please excuse the intrusion! Im just wanting to know if the R200 VLSD gears from other models will work inside a Z32 NA R200 carrier? I'm starting parts collection for a TDi swap and the stock 4.08 with the R154 supra 5-speed (with an R151 bellhousing and ACME adapter to mount it to the motor) will run about 1k RPM higher than I'd really like it to at 75MPH. I saw that the Q45 has a 3.545 and the auto 350Z has a 3.36, which would both work, but will they mate up correctly or do I have any other options? I don't want to swap subframes with the TT model just to have to eliminate HICAS and add all the extra weight. I've purchased the R151 Toyota bellhousing that will mate an R154 to a 22RE which means it will mate to the ACME adapter for a 1.9TDi. The gearing is just a little too high as is and I would like to rectify it since this swap is going for an economical GT cruiser. All help is appreciated.

Anyone had any experience with the different short snout R200s?

Im wanting to know if the R200 VLSD gears from other models will work inside a Z32 R200 carrier? I'm starting parts collection for a TDi swap and the stock 4.08 with the R154 supra 5-speed (with an R151 bellhousing and ACME adapter to mount it to the motor) will run about 1k RPM higher than I'd really like it to at 75MPH. I saw that the Q45 has a 3.545 and the auto 350Z has a 3.36, which would both work, but will they mate up correctly or do I have any other options? I don't want to swap subframes just to have to eliminate HICAS and add all the extra weight. Help?

There would be one issue to overcome, regardless of the chassis, unless you run rather large tires, which is engine RPM and power band. Why it works for the Suzuki and Tracker off-road applications is because of the large tires they use. This considerably drops engine RPM and puts the motor into the right power band. If you used the Toyota W56 the kit is built for you are given a .85 final gear in the transmission. If used in the 280Z you have a 3.545 final drive in the R180 (for example purposes, many have swapped them out, but most R200s are shorter gearing, ex. 3.7, 3.9, 4.11) and with a tire height of 26 inches (it may be smaller, couldn't find it so I used the Z32 stock height) you would cruise at 75mph at 2921 RPM, about 1000 RPM over max torque production. I based everything around 75 because it's about what I drive on the interstate. Cops don't usually bother you unless you break past 80, and getting tickets negates all the gas saving you would be attempting to create. I used the T56 .5 ratio on a stock NA Z32 setup with a 4.11 rear end 26" tire height and it pegged at 2k RPM at 75, but I don't know how difficult it would be to mate beyond from having an adapter fabricated.

That's just plain wrong. The VG30DE produces only about 180-190lb/ft of torque and it can propel the up-to 3400lbs 2+2/convertible just fine. With off the shelf parts and upgrades, the 1.9 TDi gobs of torque to move the vehicle (considerably more than the NA could ever produce) and enough horsepower to get you up to speed. It's never going to be a drag vehicle, but it would roast tire pretty effortlessly. As far as weight is concerned, the New Bettle is about a hefty 3000lbs on the curb. If you choose a 2+0 Z32 coupe you're at about 3300lbs, A hair over 3200lbs with a slicktop. Removing the weight of the VG30DE (~450lbs) will remove about 150lbs when adding the 1.9TDi (~300lbs) (Two extra pistons, rods, heads, 3 more cams, huge intake plenum, excessive intake plumbing, etc.). Replace the heavy 2 piece driveshaft with a single-piece aluminum unit, replace the seats with lighter units, and dump the jack and spare and you're right at what a TDi would be moving stock, without modification. So yes, you could have a perfectly daily driven turbo diesel Z32 with great mileage and a lot less upkeep.

Can you weld? Do you have a shop with the right tools and a lift? If so, it's as straight forward as any swap. Mounts and wiring. If not, I hope you have handy friends or a deep wallet.

I would imagine the width of the tires and the friction they create coupled with the torque of a 572 BBC would cause the car to rotate on the rear axle instead of breaking the tires loose. Has more to do with a solid rear axel, wide tires, and torque than it does backhalving, unless you say you can't put tires that wide unless you backhalve it.

This would be an awesome swap. I'm just curious about a few things... 1. What speedometer solution would you need since the ECU is VW, the transmission is Toyota (different ratios) and the rear end isn't the same? Is the ECU flashable to input the the ratios to provide an accurate speed or am I over thinking this? Will the transmission/rear end gears keep the diesel at peak efficiency? It would suck to go through the effort just to end up over-revving or bogging it because the gearing is goofed. Would love to do this in a Z32, would make an awesome cruiser/daily driver.

Sorry for the late response, been out of town. The doner is a late 80's CRX for the 1.9 TDi. I started looking for an AZ600 after posting this, lol. I'd love to put one of those 1.4L TDis in it! Sounds just heavenly. What would be required?

I was asked by a friend recently about helping him perform a swap into his FWD platform, which I've never done and can admit I'm rather clueless about. All I could find on google was a bunch a honda guys bickering about b18s, h22s, turbo or na, etc etc, and nothing about actually performing the swap. So I thought I'd give it a shot here. Does anyone know what's involved with swapping FWD drivetrains? Example: 1.9LTDi into a CRX or a Metro. Granted, it's just an example, not weighing the pros and cons of the platform. Although I'd love to put one of those TDi's into a '72 Honda AZ600 coupe. It would get rediculous mileage. Anyways, ideas? Does it require the whole subframe, or just new mounts? Axels, CVs? Thanks in advance for letting me know if I should just tell him to hit up a fab shop.

Florida is an expensive state for power, but I'm a transient. I've been stationed in Tampa for years, so I'm prime for getting orders out, or I'll probably put in my seperation papers in a year or so for a more predictable and stable job/homelife. Cost of these swaps are not as much as you would think, though they are a little more expensive than a JTR swap. The biggest expenses are the motor ($2k), the controlling electronics ($1.5k), the batteries ($1-1.5k) and the plugin charger and accessories ($3k) with some various items to hook it all together: machined adapter/hub to mount to transmission, various electric motors to supply spin to the AC condensor, vacuum to the power brakes, etc. Plus, I can build this vehcile over time. Budget won't warrant a GM Volt, and the hybrids I can afford have a lot of miles racked up on them. I don't need to spend the money only to turn around and replace any components. I see where you were coming from, though, Pop. As far as the XTs go... they are ugly as sin, but they are an engineering masterpiece. 0.29 drag coefficient, AWD, handle amazingly.

The reason for the wheel well covers is create a smooth body for air to travel across. If you search around the net about increasin aerodynamics you will ultimately come across a guy who, doing nothing but aerodynamic changes, went from 25 to 32 mpg at 70mph. http://www.evworld.com/article.cfm?storyid=870 And my Z, a Z32 slicktop, isn't going to be used for this project. Too heavy to begin with. It's being sold to fund my first anniversary trip with my wife. And the reason for not just buy a new production hybrid is that only the toyota can run off of its electric motor alone, but the price of entry is prohibitive, on top of the fact that they don't look that great. I have been looking at MR2s, Fieros, Subaru XTs, and the Porsches, and it will ultimately come down to which I can find in the best condition at the best price. Whatever I pick will also be outfitted with minor tow capacity to pull a TDi generator for interstate trips, running off of biodiesel. I just completely lost my drive to build my LS1 when I crunched the numbers. If I were single I'd build both, but I have to think of the money over the long term with my wife and the possibility of children in the next few years.

So I've decided to axe my previous projects and gasoline engine swaps for the simple fact that these swaps will ultimately just cost me more money in fuel and maintenance. I've begun the planning of a daily commute car run completely on off-peak grid power with a ~60-70 mile range and respectable acceleration, for what it is. A 150-170V system with a WarP 9" DC mated to a 5-speed manual transmission. My only issue is deciding on a good vehicle. Whatever vehicle it is will undergo various aerodynamic/weight/friction improvements to include: Complete underbelly pan (front of car to the rear, with ventilation) Rear wheel well covers Low profile side mirrors Low friction wheel bearings Light wheels Skinny (but safe) tires Lightened flywheel Synthetic fluids in all rotating assemblies I need a vehicle with a small front cross-section, can handle the weight of the battery bank, is light weight (2500lb stock curb weight MAX), and has a good drag coefficient to begin with. Need suggestions and ideas. Z's would work, but the age of the vehicles will ultimately make replacement parts difficult to find shortly down the road. All ideas welcome. Thanks! Clayton

He was talking about a full donor in running condition I believe. $4k for just an LT1 drop would be ridiculous.

The accessories will have to go along with the brackets as that is the case. There are some hidden costs if you opt for the truck motor, that's for certain.

I think it's the placement of the truck accessories that makes them less ideal for swapping. Most people suggest you get GTO or Camaro/Trans Am brackets to raise the alternator up off of the frame.

I'm just one for the least hassle when swapping the motor is hassle enough. Yeah, I know the weight gap isn't huge, it's just another point of argument is all. I shoot for a low weight baseline so I get the biggest bang for my buck when I go to modify. Can't afford the big power adders, so I have to make the bolt/semi-bolt on parts do the best they can. Plus, if you're dropping AC and PS I guess that shuts me up. Press on!

But then you have to worry about swapping the oil pan, intake, accessories/brackets, etc and the added iron weight. For $3,500-$5000 (high end, unless you look into LS2s [$8k]) you can have a factory mated Aluminum LS1/T56 dropout with all of the bonus goodies (pedals, driveshaft, ECU, harness, etc). Unless you plan to boost the motor until it pops or are running on a severely tight budget (the 5.3L LM7 Gen3 can be had for ~$500), I wouldn't get a iron block. You'll end up wishing you'd have held out.

I'm curious about something. It seems like sucking in hot under-hood air wouldn't net you much and that it would only be viable for non-street applications. No filtering (unless you could add 8 individual mini filters), no MAF (would have to use a SD setup?), and hot air (unless you were funneling outside air into the bay). I'm just stating what I picture in my head, could you shed some light for me? I'm a bit out of my specialty.

There is a fuse/relay box under the hood behind the driver's headlight, there is a small fuse box in front of the battery, and there is a fuse panel to the left of the gas pedal behind a kick panel. If the one you're looking for isn't one of those then I'm stumped.

Have you considered an electric power steering pump? I believe the 2nd gen MR2 used one. I would never drive a rig with 285s or more on the street without power steering, would wear out before reaching the destination. lol Just a thought for you.