9kredline

This was the only part of your post with anything relevent, and it is incorrect. "In February of 1993, a stunning decision, arising from this GMPD "soul searching," was to discontinue Gen III as a Small-Block and do it as a totally new, medium-displacement, V8. " http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1740898&postcount=20

My project log and camera is back in the garage in ATL. It's a project I have only the time I take as leave to work on, but it has progressed very swiftly with pre-planning, research, and having the parts ordered and on hand before arrival. You already have a shop producing your mounts, wouldn't be cost or time effective for you to wait for me to get back to my equipment to produce one set. However, once you are mounted, I can answer pretty much any question you're going to have concerning accessories, wiring, turbo configuration and piping.

One can only draw conclussions from the information that has been presented. Your posts began with asking if there was a kit, and then several posts saying you would buy one. Now you post that you have a shop producing them. You've never stated purpose, or goals. I'm currently building a TT LS1 in a Z32 with a pair of intercooled GN turbos. I'm past where you are. I have the first hand knowledge and experience that I'm more than happy to share, but not with an attitude like that. Don't take things so offensively.

Just a question... Why a SBC? edit: Since it seems to have become an issue with post comprehension, the question was in referrence to the antiquity of the SBC design. Not questioning why he used a Chevy V8.

If you have to keep the raw CF visible I would just paint the car black. Just seems like a step back to leave the hood and spoiler raw when you're going have countless thousands spent on motor and restoration work.

I just want to know why, if he has all this money and know-how, I was sent a butchered rehash (read: "exact duplication minus 4 chapters") of someone else's manual. Wtf sense does that make? He still owes me $6.50 for the fees it cost me to get my money back from the USPS. Well, I've detoured this thread enough. The original poster hasn't been back to say much, though.

They'll never get the exhaust piped with those monstrous 3-valves without chopping fenders. That manual will probably something to the extent of...

I don't see running more than 5-7psi on the stock bottom end. If I recall right it's a 10.1:1. Without moving to lower compression pistons or alcohol/water/no2 I don't see it going much higher than that. That's another job for another day.

I'll probably have both the intake and exhaust bells ported. I don't see 700rwhp in my budget nor my plans. As far as boost control, I'm going to invest in a GReddy Profec B-Specc II unless I find a reason to steer elsewhere.

So if I'm understanding, I can get another intercooler fitting made and do away with the recirc opening and on the exhaust side I can block off the hole and run a wastegate and dump tube off of the exhaust manifolds or simply have one welded and attached to the exhaust pipe to match where the old lever mechanism would have sit. Input still welcome! Edit and it looks to be just a standard T3 flange, correct?

First off, thanks to Scottie, Clifton, and DD from my previous thread. I posted on the GN forum and got several bites for turbos, by the end of next week I'll have two for $200 total with shipping. This probably just some basic unfamiliarity with turbos, but that's why I'm doing this project. I just need a little explaination... #1 I'm assuming this is simply a wastegate and the housing with the gate mechanism attaches to the rod that's part of the vacuum solenoid. Is the housing and solenoid going to be necessary for my application? #2 What is the purpose of the port located on the intercooler funnel? PS I'm going to be derusting the exhaust housing quite a bit, looking rather groady.

Adlashwa's manual is nice and will give you a great starting point and help along the way. AbsoluteMoron's manual was one he purchased from Adlashwa's, chopped and butchered, and released as his own property. I know because I almost got screwed by him. I got my money back through the USPS. Never do any transaction without them. Z32s are NOT the light-weight, inexpensive, fabrication friendly vehicles the 240-280Zs are. There hasn't been 30+ years of research and motor swapping completed on them. They are still $3-7,000 for an early model in good condition, and the ones without motors are usually junked pretty badly. All of this makes it a very small V8-Z32 community. You're basically on your own for a lot of infomation, so please do some soul searching as to whether or not you have the funds, know-how, friends, hook-ups, time, and work areas to start and actually complete a project of this magnitude. BoostedZ350, if you're so apt to spend money on pre-made mounts you might as well take your motor/transmission down to a fabrication shop and have them create and mount the engine for you. There is no Scarab or JTR setup, so please think outside of the box on this one.

Two have openly completed it, with a handful of others that probably just looked at the site and did it, with another handful that are currently in the process of it. None have made a kit and I can almost gurantee none ever will. Now, search for Z32 LS1 swap manual and purchase it. It will contain the meat and potatoes of measurements and necessary hardware/processes. Very worth it, in my opinion. I sucked at fabrication, but I know people that didn't. You might try the same route and get a friend to help.

You guys are throwing out a lot of awesome information. I did the calculation on this page ( http://www.automotivearticles.com/Turbo_Selection.shtml ) for lb/min rate I would need for a 347cid block at 190degF (+460 Rankin) with 85% volumetric efficiency, 6500rpm redline, and a manifold pressure of 29.4 (Atmosphere + 14.7psi boost) and I got a combined total of 67.5lbs/min, which would mean I would need a turbo that flowed roughly 34lbs/min on each bank to effectively reach 2x atmosphere. That sound about right? I haven't done anything beyond checkbook balancing since I left college for the AF. I redid the calculation for full boost to hit at 5500rpm and it gave me ~57lbs/min for a flow rate on each bank. Maybe somethings up with my math.

Hey, no prob DD! I knew something was up, just didn't want to make it seem like I was ungrateful for the helpful info. Now the right turbo to search for, and I did, I just wanted to make sure we're on the same page... Here's one of the sites I found that looks like I can use as a reference for the T04E: http://www.speedshopthagard.com/garrett/T3TO4E.html What A/R housing were you suggesting with the 50 trim compressor wheel? And I'm really new to reading these maps, and I've been reading tutorials but the way I understand them is if I wanted "maximum power and efficiency" I would want to install wastegates and an ebc to keep the airflow at ~33lbs/min and the psi at ~ 21psi? Although I don't quite see how you limit the airflow rate, seems like it would be a constant with the size of the compressor.

I was thinking the same about them being inadequate, which means I was probably reading about the wrong turbo. Yes, the motor will be intercooled. Either by an Apollo or similar front mount, or if I can get my hands on one from tractor-trailer to modify down to my size. Thanks for the info, the both of you! As you said it's simply a modified t3/t4, but doesn't seem like something you'd come across every day. Should I lurk on the GN forums and wait for someone to upgrade their turbo or is their a more direct route? Hate being the newbie all over again, but I guess you have to build up from zero when it comes to new things!

Got a question on a turbo setup I'm piecing together, but it's my first go so I wanted to field some questions past the forced induction gurus. The motor is an '02 LS1 and is going into a '91 300ZX slicktop, and I figured if I'm going to do a project I'm going to do it right, so... I researched all the ways to add twins to the motor since the stock locations probably won't work like the V6, and the consensus is a set of GM 6.0L cast truck manifolds flipped and reversed so the turbos mount in the front of the engine compartment. Fitting it is the easy part... My goal is ~500+/- horse power on 93 octane and I don't plan on boring the block past stock cubes until the motor needs a rebuild. So here's my questions: 1. What turbo/size will match my motor for the quickest spool yet get me to or close to my horsepower goal? (stock 347ci) Two T3s seem too small, so maybe two T3/4s? 2. Will I need anything more than larger injectors (I'm thinking maybe 42#), an ECM re-tune for the added air/fuel, and possibly higher volume fuel pump to feed the motor sufficiently? Any advice or wisdom beyond this would be appreciated. Like I said, this is my first turbo endeavor, but I'm set on it and I think it'll be a great learning experience.

Wow, nice to see you from 3ZC.com. Sure you'll end up as positive an influence here as you were in the Tech over there.

Just so everyone is aware, or whomever may end up searching the site and come across this thread: In the pursuit of all available written knowledge before injecting my LS1 into my 90-96 Z32 300ZX (Search tag ) I puchased Adlashwa's manual and was very pleased with it. Shortly after a, now banned, AbsolutePower (Now renamed "AbsoluteMoron") advertised "his own" manual claiming more and better advice and instructions. Adlashwa's was very thorough and concise, but it's always nice to have a second opinion, no? So I paid out for it... After countless emails, threatening, pleading, apologizing, begging, lathering, rinsing, and repeating, and TWO MONTHS of little response, I received an over-stuffed standard envelope containing a stack of papers in a three-part fold. I began to read over it and came to a very startled conclusion... IT WAS THE SAME MANUAL THAT ADLASHWA PRODUCED. A carbon copy, minus about 3-4 chapters. To add insult to injury it wasn't even complete. So if anyone else fell prey to this or stumbles across it, just keep searching. This was just a disrespectful slap in the face not only to me, because I told him I already purchased Adlashwa's, but to the original author himself.

T5, install a stouter clutch and you're good to go. Though, honestly, I'd go with the T56. I don't see 6th causing any issues with any gearing you're going to have in a Z.

I paid for and received the manual from Adlashwa, very indepth. However... I also tried to get the one from AbsolutePower. Shame on me for trying to get all the information I could before starting my project. He gave me BS excuse after BS excuse and after TWO MONTHS he hasn't sent one thing. I'm going to be filing with USPS to get reimbursed for getting scammed and see what other avenues I can persue as far as keeping him from stealing from anyone else. There's $45 I have to wait another month to get back.