9kredline

There's no difference as far as capabilities between the two setups besides the obvious difference in cubic inches. The gearing of the two may differ, but all the GM used 6-speeds are all overly built.

All Z32s have VLSD.

The only place you have to modify is around the transmission tunnel. Once you push it back and re-close it, simply push your dash back in. You're not affecting it, case and point:

After I bought the manual and compiled the data from HybridZ, I found out the manual served as little more than constructive theory. Vann's website gave me all the information I needed and answers a lot of questions. http://www.vpiazza.com/ztext.htm Vann's swap was also 1000x more clean, required no notching or frame cutting, and placed the motor/sump behind the crossmember. The only, pseudo, drawback is that you need to push the firewall back about 3" to fit the T56 through the stock shifter opening. If you want the manual and can't get a hold of Adlashwa just shoot me a PM. Just realize that the basics of this swap are no different than a SBC in an S30. Mount it, connect the drivetrain, run the harnesses, troubleshoot.

What's your budget? By reading your posts' date=' at least from where I'm standing, you saw something cool and want to imitate, which is whole-heartedly supported here, but you are putting the cart before the horse. Or at least trying to blow your friend out of the water, lol. Either way get the motor, then get it in the car, [i']then[/i] worry about phenominal cosmic power. For the money and power, especially if you want to out-do your friend, start with a solid 350.

I got burned way back when I started my Z32/LS1 project by him, so don't take offense if I get brash about it. But yeah, threads by GB300Z, KrazeeZX, and Adlashwa are the ones you want to focus on for information about this swap. There's one by me that asks a bunch of questions about it, as well, that has lots of good info in it. Good luck though, and make sure to keep us updated!

Don't even bother clicking that link. The threadstarter was banned for 1) being an argumentitive *** and 2) being a thief. His "manual" was stolen and hacked up from another member here. The shifter is where you place it. If it sits too high you modify it or purchase a short-shifter.

Don't debate with yourself, if you want to keep yours then keep it. I had a lot of electrical gremlins from my previous Z that were my own fault that I got too fed up with to want to repair so I sold it. Just trying to show the other side of the fence. People want what you have, so consider taking advantage of it. On a side note, they only made the slicktops in 2+0s. It was the base of the bases, and it took me about 6 months to find a clean one. I owned a 2+2 before this one and I enjoyed it, but that's when I needed the space. Whatever you choose, stick it out until the end!

It's not really a purist view. Hundreds of thousands of people want and scrape to try to get a good condition twin turbo. Capitalize on it. With a new motor in it you can pull $10-15k. Therefore, by getting only $10k: Donor non-turbo shell, 4.08 rear end, no HICAS, etc: -$2000 Wrecked donor car: -$4000 Part out old motor/transmission: +$300-800 New driveshaft/gauges/etc: -$1000 Granted you get most all of your parts from the donor, you will have ~$3500 to spend on suspension, upgrades, or paint. You're going to miss the chance to make money and further your project, that's all. If you don't care, no one else does, either. I'm currently knee deep in this swap, just trying to provide some insight.

Personally, I wouldn't perform the LS swap on TT. It's already built and provisioned with a very potent motor. If you're seriously intent on it, sell the TT and purchase a Geo and another Z32 and go from there. The car will be lighter, less cluttered, no HICAS, etc. Good luck whichever route you choose, though.

You install the mounts and motor, and have the car running. Disassemble, load up, take to paintshop. If you don't have this option, obviously you can't, but this covers all the scratches, mounts, etc from the installation, and all you have to do is drop everything back in and hook it up.

That's awesome that you've gotten it all squared away. I think I remember you posting on 3ZC about the car. One suggestion I might make, get the motor installed and squared away before the paint. You'll thank yourself later on.

He's trying to cheat you. Should cost no more than $350 depending on hardware.

Mine won't be road bound for a little while. Most of the major systems have been finished, though. Clutch, AC, gauges, etc. Mine is simply waiting on the funds to finish the TT project. (Injectors, fuel pump, wastegates, BOVs, piping) Don't take things so offensively. When you ask a question, don't use a thousand ?s and keep the run-ons to a minimum. Makes things easier to understand and people will think better of you, rather than think you haven't done any research at all. If you have any specifics, PM me and I'll help with what I can.

I searched "LS1 Z32." http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100382&highlight=ls1+z32 Here is the rest of them: http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php?searchid=266467 It will answer a bunch of questions you're going to have. Best of luck, and all.

One question mark signifies a question is being asked. Several question marks mean you're frantically pounding your keyboard and haven't done any indepth research or put any thought into anything. 1. Several have installed the AC and heat. GM AC compressor, Nissan heating core. 2. The harness depends on what you have to work with. If the donor harness is good, use it. If it's not, purchase a Painless. 3. Your preference, but I would stick to hydraulic. Just search next time. I know you didn't because I have a post about these items in greater detail.

Here's mine before she went under, wish I had my project cam to upload some others.

Quoted for truth. That's a beautiful machine he's built.

All I'm seeing is the "It's my opinion" answers for the guys that think it's a small block. The dimensions argument is pointless to me, it's all about the design and technology. What makes it a small block?

You already knew my take on it, but that pretty much summed it up. Too many block casting and engineering differences. A small block is just a small block, but LSx's are fruit and cake. Noticing a lot of folks saying they think it's a SBC, but no posts. This could be interesting, write a response with your vote! EDIT: It's even on GM's website. http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/perfpartsjsp/category.jsp?section=ep Chevy "Gen 3 Design" LS1 - LS6 - LQ4 as opposed to: Chevy Big-Block V8 Chevy Small-Block V8 I don't know how much more evidence I can provide.